Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'EA82'.
-
I recently replaced my timing belt and pulleys, oil pump, water pump, cam seals, main seal and thermostat (thanks for the videos miles fox!) When i first started the car the passenger side timing belt pulled backwards towards the firewall on the cam pulley and is was riding pretty close to the edge of the pulley. I turned the car off and loosened the tensioner and pulled the belt back to the center of the pulley. when i started the car again the belt went immediately back to riding on the edge of the cam pulley. any ideas? Also terrible gas mileage before and after this job circa 15mpg in the city any ideas on this? edit = car is a 5mt 4wd loyale with 261k, the repair was originally initiated from a ball bearing falling out of my oil pump. thanks! -
Hello to fellow subaru ehtusiasts, i am writing from Thika in Kenya. I recently rescued a Subaru Leone forgoten/ abandoned in a friends farm shed. after consulting my 'Tree shade' mechanic he sugested i replace the old engine with an ej15 engine. after scouring around i did find one for about 300 $ but with no ecu n harness. i was planning to visit an accident write-off yard to get the ecu and harness.. or am i better off overhauling the ea82 engine?
-
After going to the west coast subaru id really like to get together with other Old Gen Subaru lovers here in the NW. i see so many pages on facebook etc on the new gen (which are great and i love em) but i want to see all the Old gen rigs. Would anyone be want to join in on this? Im thinking after christmas time. If your interested Post on here or pm me. maybe if we find out where everyone is coming from finding a good place to all meet would be easier. Im in Salem, OR Where yall at? -
Hey all, I'm new here and this is my first post. I was wondering if there's a coilover available for the Loyale sedan? I've heard that some early civic coils will work but I'm not sure. Ideally I would like to be incredibly low, as low as possible on 14" wheels. I was also wondering about the Digital Dash I have seen online. Does this only come in the Turbo version? Only come over seas (non US)? Could I swap one into a non digital dash'd L? My build is going to be very early 90's Japanese style inspired. Sorry for so many questions, I'm new! spvcxshxp. -
I just put the EA82 in my 88 GL back together after a blown head gasket and now the engine runs fine but it's having idling problems that it didn't have before I took it apart (several months went by between starting and finishing, busy with other stuff). I have drained the tank of old gas and replaced it with about a half a tank of new gas and sea foam, changed the fuel filter in the back by the tank, and blew the carb out with some carb cleaner and sea foam. All of that helped a lot but none of it fully fixed the problem. Basically I was hoping it was just bad gas / something simple that would just clear up on it's own, but it doesn't seem to be. When I adjust the throttle (the only thing I touched when I took everything apart for the head gasket) so it idles at around 1000, it's fine until next time I start the car, then it's way too low or way too high. Literally just turning the car off then on again. I played with it and cleaned the carb more (without taking it out) and once the car was warmed up and was idling in a more predictable way and revving normally, I took it down the driveway and the accelerator kept sticking, every time I use the gas pedal, the engine only returns to around 2000 rpms until I lift up on the pedal with my foot. Maybe I have a sticky pedal, throttle cable, or accelerator; maybe carb dirt; maybe something dirty still happening in the gas tank or earlier in the fuel system. I have very limited cash and time otherwise I would be into doing more hunting or taking the time to properly clean the carburetor. Should I: Keep hunting for the sticky gas pedal problem? Take the carb all the way off and take it all apart and thoroughly clean it? Or would it be easier to just get a rebuilt carb and replace it? I have only cleaned little outboard boat motor carbs and a motorcycle carb once and I'm afraid of taking it apart and wasting too much time and not getting it back together properly. Would it work to get a used one off a EA82 at a junkyard / online or am I likely to have the same problem / more issues? What are other variables I am ignorant to? I'm new to Subarus and suck at carburetors, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Let me know if there are any helpful pictures I could take or any other information I can provide. Thanks
-
Any tips on adjusting the front door hinge? Mine are slightly worn and the door is hanging a little low, so that means I need to loosen the bolts going into the body and not the door. With the fender off it looks easy, but can you get a tool in there without removing the fender?
-
Spent Halloween working on my own Frankenstein super lifted T-cased Subaru project. 86 Isuzu Trooper diesel Front frame. Cut just behind the torsion mounts. Keeping the Isuzu A-arms, knuckles, hubs, brakes. Hooking up to Subaru 4.11 Diff using hybrid Isuzu and EA81 Axles. EJ steering rack with Isuzu tierods. Nissan 720 Transfercase Here's some teaser pics. Not sure it's really what I want to do......but it's a start.
-
like the title says, where is it whats it look like? I converted to a manual rack in my lifted 87 gl-10 and there is about 3-4 degrees movement in the steering wheel, the tie rod ends are good, and were recently replaced. the rack mount bushings are also in good shape. the rack itself looks like it was replaced fairly recently, I wiped it off and it looks almost new. I'm sure theres something about it in my haynes or chilton but I haven't seen either book in quite sometime. I did a search but I came up empty handed.. Thanks for the help, if it matters the rack is from an 85/86. If someone has the info floating around( which I'm sure they do). I'll see about getting it added to the USRM. -
having serious regrets about messing around w/ my Loyale, "Joan Crawlins" after i finally had her in the best shape she's been in since i got her last Winter in Penn. everything was great as stock, but then i put in a 2" inch lift to gain clearance over sand in btwn the tracks on a rutted out access road to the beach. that messed up the camber of the front wheels something awful (pics here: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/2%20inch%20Lift%20kit%20and%2015%20inch%20Pugs) and after tracking down some 15" alloy pugs in a junkyard in Pennsylvania and ordering lugs from Dan in Sacramento, i thought that would help the camber issue, but it didn't solve nearly enough for daily driving. so pulled the lift kit out, but kept the pugs on and had to cut a bunch of the wells out cause i was getting lots of rubbing since my suspension was in bad shape. put in new struts in the front which helped, gonna put in struts in the back in the next couple days, but having no luck finding coils for the front. CAN I USE COILS FOR ANOTHER SUBARU that are easily available? like a legacy? if so, what should i get? also, now my camber is ok in the front, i'm getting positive camber in the back, which i can only guess was as a result of putting in and taking out the lift in the back. once i put in new struts in the back and hopefully coils in the front, and then get everything aligned professionally, will my camber issues be solved, theoretically? just ruing my decision to have changed anything at this point, but all's not lost by along shot and if i can get the suspension finished and the alignment solves the camber, i'll be happy to have the Pugs on rather than the stock 13"s. here's a look at where i'm at now: http://s406.photobucket.com/user/GlenSzabo/library/Loyale%20Camber%20Issues @175eya @CoyotePaws @Mechanical_Misfit thanks for the help folks, as always, i'm eternally grateful for the advice and support. -Glen
-
Not sure if anyone here remembers when I last posted about my cold idle issue. Needless to say, it hasn't been fixed. I've been able to tolerate it the past few months, but now it's getting ridiculous. I've started taking auto tech classes, and my class starts at 7 am, so I have to deal with it every morning.... Please read everything carefully. Car is my '90 Loyale, EA82 N/A. The problem I have is when the car is cold, it doesn't want to idle. I start it up and have to rev it at 2000-3000 RPM for ~5 minutes before I can get it to idle at 500 or so. It's good enough to get going, so I leave. However, EVERY time I push in the clutch (or put it in neutral), the RPMs fall so fast that the engine stalls. When changing gears, this isn't a problem. But if I'm coming to a stop, I must heel-toe and feather the gas to keep it from stalling. Then, randomly, it'll idle normally. Just like if someone flipped a switch, it'll idle fine. It used to take 5 minutes or so before this happened, but now it takes up to 30 minutes!!! My school is about 30 minutes away, and sometimes I can go most of the trip there before it idles normally. Funny thing is, if I've been driving for 10 minutes or so, turn off the car, then turn it back on, it'll idle fine. For example, if I stop and get gas before school, it'll idle normally when I start it back up. The few minutes it takes to fill the tank is enough for the car to decide to idle. I know what you're thinking, it's the IACV or the CTS. I've replaced the CTS twice and the IACV twice. I've cleaned the IACV a few times, but it didn't help. The only part I've noticed that had a difference was the water pump. I swapped my longblock and it came with a new water pump on it. That water pump failed in 400 miles, but during that time, I never had an idle problem. I put my old water pump on and I soon saw the idle issue again. I've never heard of a water pump causing an idle issue, have you? Here are some of the things I've noticed: The issue doesn't seem to be related to weather much. It'll have more problems idling during the winter, but I still notice it during the summer. The issue doesn't seem to be related to how long the car has been sitting. I mean, if it's only been sitting for less than 3 hours, then it'll probably idle. But I've had it idle fine after sitting for 8 hours, and I've had it not idle at all after sitting for 4 hours. The issue doesn't seem to be related to coolant temperature. The temp gauge will reach it's normal range in a few minutes, but as stated before, sometimes it'll take 30 minutes before the car will idle. However, I believe once the temp gauge reads normal, I can turn the car off, sit for a minute, turn it back on, and it'll idle fine. In the video posted below, I took off the IACV hose with the engine running. Made no difference. Disconnected the CTS. No difference. Disconnected the IACV (electrically). No difference. I'll try the tests again with the engine warm, if that's when I'm supposed to do it. My CEL is on, but I believe it's for the purge and EGR solenoids, if I remember correctly. Been a while since I've checked; I'll check again. Anyways, any ideas? Please feel free to ask questions to help with diagnosis. Feel free to tell me any tests to do, and I'll do them (assuming I have the tools for it). When I posted this before, someone stated something about testing a pin on the connector on the ECU. I never got confirmation on what pin and what numbers I should be getting. I'm just kinda stumped as to what it could be, especially since the two most probable causes are not likely to be the problem. My gut feeling says it's an electrical problem, but I don't know where exactly to start with that. I really want to test and diagnose this, rather than doing the "shotgun" method to fixing it: throwing parts at the car hoping one will fix it. Here is the video that kinda shows the cold start. Before you say anything, the oil pressure gauge reads low; always has. And I did adjust my belts after the video. http://youtu.be/KwjWYgybeLc
-
HEy all, I was trying to fins out is it possible to entirely swap out the ea82 engine and replace it with ANYTHING, other than an old model engine. Price is whatever, meaning if the Trans has to be new too, thats cool i just want to know about size and a secure safe fit. Thanks. -
So, I own a 1990 Loyale with push button 4wd. I want to lower it using coilovers or springs(if possible) from a 90's Impreza. Does anyone have experience with this, or other bolt-on/spring swap projects? I'm not looking to cut springs, OR buy 1800 dollar coils.. Help appreciated. thanks!
-
Little bump in the rump, EA82 shock mod
Gloyale posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
So recently I replaced the factory adjustables on my 86 EA82 wagon. I had the old adjustables cranked to the high setting to help clear my 215/70/15 tires. The new shocks had a spring perch that sat a bit lower, (3/4 in.) on the shock than were it was in the high position with the adjustables. So hears what I did to mimic the extra preload/height of the old ones using the new shocks. I did need a pair of old spring perches from another non-adustable EA82 shock set. lucky for me I've got tons of suba-spoob everywhere. here's the pics, pretty self explainitory New perch knocked off the new strut. Flipped over and slid back on Old set of perches slid on "correct" way to make lip to hold the spring Finished, spring perch raised about 3/4 inch from factory setting. Note this mod takes away a tiny bit of the "uptravel" of the shock. About 1/2 inch. Which for me is fine since I don't want the tire to be able to "stuff" too far into the wheel well and rub. -
I am looking for new bushings for my lower control arm in a 92 Loyale. Lordco and Napa have nothing. Any ideas where to find some? Thanks. Located in Golden, BC -
Hey all. I was in a minor highway accident yesterday in my EA82. Nobody was hurt, and it was rather low speed, but I've bent my front left quarterpanel up and bent the valence under the bumper. The bumper itself is shifted to one side but it looks okay. I didn't even crack a headlight. However, it leaked coolant immediately after the collision, leading me to believe that the radiator took some damage. I assume this is from the valence under the bumper coming into contact with the radiator, and hopefully NOT from the center support. But on to my real question: I found a good fender/quarterpanel at a pick n' pull nearby, but didn't have the tools necessary to remove it with me at the time. What size are the bolts used to attach it this piece, and does anybody have a good writeup on replacing body panels? This will be my first wrenching on this car and I'm hoping for some guidance. Thanks! edited to add tags -
Well. I took an EA82 engine to be re-manufactured today. It is the right engine for my 1988 GL and though I had considered replacing it with a EJ22 I dont have the money and I'm just not ready to go there as far as complications and more unknowns. Now, the guys at the shop did not seem too enamored of this particular engine type. They feel it leaks, it runs hot because the cooling system was not modified after the EA81 to give more cooling to the EA82, and it does not give a lot of power for its size. I hear them I totally hear them, but I also think these cars with this engine do tend to go forever. I also got the idea that what may fail if anything on a rebuilt engine is the heads can warp or crack, and the head gasket go, because of the fact that this engine runs hotter than other types, and that the water pump is on one side so the engine does not cool evenly on both sides and causes it to warp. Because of this I am considering a radiator upgrade, or an oil cooler (just heard of those). Does anyone else have an opinion on the EA82 they would like to share? or have you replaced with a EJ22 and if so what is your feedback on that. I sure would like the extra horses. I just cant afford them/deal with all that right now....
-
I haven't really seen any threads or pictures of Toyota inclinometers being installed into Subarus, so I figured I'd post. Today, I got in the mail an identical pair of these Toyota inclinometers: In case you don't know, here's some details on these gauges. Toyota sold them in their '84-'89 4WD pickups, 4Runners, and Tercels. But only on the SR5 models. The 4Runner inclinometer also came with an altimeter on the left, whereas the Tercel ones (like what I got) just had a 4WD indicator light that illuminated when 4WD was engaged. Near-new inclinometers go for ~$200 on eBay, so they're not necessarily cheap. Although I believe you can get them for real cheap at a junkyard, if you find an '80s SR5 4WD Toyota. If you don't know what an inclinometer is, it's basically a tilt gauge. One gauge tells you how angled up/down your vehicle is, and the other tells how banked your vehicle is (helps to avoid rollovers). Seeing as most of the people on here offroad, I'm sure most of you at least know what an inclinometer is. The nice thing about this one is it's entirely mechanical, besides the backlighting (and the 4WD indication light). Inside, it's basically just a set of gears and weights. Just like a Subaru, it's a pretty simple machine. When I first saw a picture of one of these, I thought they were really cool. I don't offroad to a point where rollovers and steep hills are a concern/possibility. But I thought it'd be cool to have one of these in the car, especially since it'd be another thing to make my car unique. So in this thread, I'll be posting about the installation of this, and I'd like to hear your guys' opinions. How do I put this in my Loyale? Well, that's a good question. It does have this "case" which is comfortably close in color to my car's interior. That flat spot on the EA82 dash would be a perfect place to put this. The only problem is that the flat spot isn't very big as you go towards the passenger side, so the only place the inclinometer fits is right in front of the clock. For most EA82 owners, this isn't a problem, since these clocks rarely work. However, since this is my daily driver, I do have a working clock in there, and I'd like to not cover it up. As you might be able to tell, there is a gap under the gauges, which is quite noticeable (and ugly) in person. However, the real problem with this setup though is the angle. I guess the Toyota dashboards are sloped, because sitting on the EA82 dash, the gauges are angled upwards. This is a problem for the pitch gauge, as you have to recalibrate it. But when you adjust it a lot, it's range gets screwed with. Properly adjusted, the pitch gauge reads about +/- 45 degrees. When I adjust it to compensate for the angle at which it's sitting in the above picture, the range is about + 75 degrees, -15 degrees. I have to get the gauges to sit flat for it to work properly. Easy solution is to pull it out of the case. This, as of right now, is how I'm going to install this. Reason being is it's short enough that I can still see the clock, flat enough for the readings to be good, and a good contact surface for me to put velcro down to hold it on the dash (I want this to be as minimally invasive/permanent as possible). The only problem with this setup is it's not super good looking, mainly because of the white case. Solution? Well, I decided to paint it black! Took out all the components of the inclinometer. Pretty simple. Time for paint! I'm just painting the outside of the case black. I'm leaving the interior of the case white because 1) it doesn't matter since you can't see it, and 2) I'm not sure, but the white might help with the illumination. Another thing is the wiring. For right now, I'm not going to wire up anything. I'm talking the bulbs/wires out. If I were to wire up the back illumination, I'd probably just tap into the cigarette lighter wires. I always drive with my headlights on, so they'd be illuminated all the time anyways. And the lighter is a switched power source, so it wouldn't drain power. Wiring up the 4WD light could also be a possibility, although I kinda see it as useless. What I'm thinking of doing is swapping the 4WD indicator light for another gauge--perhaps a voltmeter--since it wouldn't be hard to do so. But I won't worry about that for right now. That's as far as I have gotten so far. The perfect place to install this would be where the radio is, since it's the perfect width. But I have a working radio that I use all the time, so I won't be doing that. Interested in what you guys think, and maybe if you have done something like this before. I think it's a cool gadget, and I also read that it can be used as a g-meter. Accelerating/braking affects the pitch meter, and turning affects the roll meter. However, roads aren't perfectly flat, so it wouldn't be accurate. I'll post more as I make more progress. Currently waiting for the paint to dry, and it's not easy buying velcro at 10 pm, haha.
-
Okay, so about two weeks I swapped my EA82's longblock. It came with a brand new water pump. The first day, I noticed some coolant loss, but it was a combination of bleeding the system, letting coolant pump through every hose, and I didn't fill up the overflow tank. By the second day, she was holding coolant nicely. About a week later, I notice the temp gauge is reading a bit higher than normal (not overheating though). Up until then, I noticed no coolant loss, and I was checking it every day. However, the radiator went dry and there was no coolant in the overflow tank. I noticed no visible leaks. Filled her up and wanted to double check the coolant to make sure. Wasn't noticing any problems, until I turned the car off when I got to work today. As always, I look back at my car when I walk away, haha. But this time, I noticed coolant was dripping pretty fast out the bottom of the car. I crawl underneath, and find it's dripping from the oil pan onto the skidplate onto the ground. Pop the hood, and notice no visible leaks. Completely dry of coolant, but yet it's still dripping out onto the ground. I had to clock on, so I left the car sitting. Nine hours later, I need to get home. First thing I did was adjust the metal pipe that fits in between the driver side radiator hose and the water pump. Adjusted it so it sits better on the water pump. I start adding some coolant, and it starts dripping out the bottom again. Again, no visible leaks. Luckily, I only live 5 minutes from work, so I was able to drive it home. Got home right as the temp gauge reached its normal readings, so it didn't overheat. Turned the car off, and noticed smoke coming out of the grill. Pop the hood and find coolant sprayed around the water pump. At this point, it is NOT dripping coolant on the ground. So anyways, anyone have tips? I searched topics on water pumps, but there aren't many threads about it. Best solution I could find is that new water pumps will do this, especially if there's debris in the cooling system, and it'll eventually fix itself. I can do some work in the morning, but should I just run the car a bit more and see if it fixes it? Oh, I forgot to mention that I've noticed no other problems. No overheating, no coolant in the oil, no oil in the coolant, etc. Here is video of it dripping out, and what happened when I got home: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fs_l8KwI0I4&list=PLWKW712Na2Z5uYMhUIrlkcgGSaNQ8ozGA&index=1 Thanks for any help! 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 (swapped exactly 400 miles ago, has 116K on the motor, new water pump, longblock)
-
I beleive my afm went out on my 86 rx ea82t, with a paddle style air flow meter, when plugged it won't idle and spudders, unplugged it runs smoother, but of course i need it to be right. Does anybody know a place to get one, since i feel that finding one isn't gonna be that easy, and i don't wanna pay steep prices for a new one? Just for kicks, has anyone heard of using one from another car?
-
The A/C compressor on my '89 RX has started to make a groaning noise when the clutch is engaged. When the A/C is off, there is no noise. It sounds like the bearing needs lubrication. When the engine revs the groaning increases. What is the easiest way to fix this? Should I add more R12 (I don't think it was ever converted to 134 previously and I have never touched it) or is there another way to relubricate the compressor? Could it be a belt tension issue? Understandably, I would like to avoid replacing the compressor.
-
Hey fellow Subie fans, I'm going to be moving from Boulder, Colorado (near Denver) to Brooklyn, N.Y. (NYC...) and will be stopping by Denver's Subaru-filled junkyard on the way out to stock up on parts. Do any of you East Coast Subie people need anything while I'm there? If so, give me a call and we can work something out vis-a-vis shipping costs. You chipping in on gas (and maybe a little labor) will be hugely cheaper than having something shipped. Personally, I've had poor luck finding parts and parts cars on the East Coast (they all rusted to pieces years ago). But the Denver U Pull and Pay always has nearly a dozen GLs and Loyales in the yard. If you need something, give me a call at (757) 635-2136. I'll be in Denver until Friday afternoon (May 17, 2013). Cheers, Ben -
So I have recently acquired a 94 loyale and upon inspection and diagnosing the engine needs gone through in short. The engine is pulled and ready to be worked with. Now originally I was just gonna do a regular spec rebuild nothing special new gaskets rings pistons valves etc etc well I got to wondering why not build it up a little? Its not a race car and I know im not gonna get anywhere near 200hp but I figured it could at least push 130-140hp. So has anyone done a build on an ea82? Or know of where I can get larger cams and pistons or any "performance" parts for a fuel injected ea82 and just more bang for my buck?
-
94 Loyale wagon starting/running issue
risonm92 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have recently acquired a 94 loyale wagon. It has issues starting and running. It had stale gas in it i drained it out as best i could and put about 2 gallons back in it. it has new plugs good spark and 50lbs of fuel pressure but will not start easily at least. The only way i have been able to get it started is if i put a little gas into the throttle body unplug the injector solenoid turn it over for a minute then it will start to fire poorly at wich time i plug the solenoid back in and it will stay running poorly for a short period of time untill it dies. if i leave the injector solenoid plugged in itll turn and turn and it will act like it starts to fire then itll just continue turning over with no fire at all it seems like its flooding itself out but i honestly have no clue any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also it seems to help when you tap on the egr valve when try to start it. -
Hello All, My son's 1990 Loyale with an EZ82 non-turbo manual transmission, intermittently races to 3500 RPM or so. Just started. Any Ideas?
-
Hello All, My son's 1990 Loyale with an EZ82 non-turbo manual transmission, intermittently races to 3500 RPM or so. Just started. Any Ideas?
