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Showing results for tags 'brat'.
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my dads step brother took me for a ride in his brat close to 35 years ago..i wanted one every since.. i finally got one.. a little about me.. i drag race a 51 henry j gasser , offroad race a rock buggy, and hunt&fish.. my brat needs alot of TLC ,its missing a few parts and has some strange noises..hope to find some parts and info..
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For Sale: 81 Brat w/146,079 mi, runs/drives, ugly. $700 Email me: b.l.yelton@gmail.com
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So the other day my brat started idling super slow on me, like it was going to sleep on me. Sometimes it would idle slowly enough that it would quit. Before this started happening I had adjusted the idle speed so that it idled at a little below 1000 RPMs, but now it was idling around 200-300.. It's not overheating, but when it happened the engine was at normal operating temperature. I checked the oil and that is fine. I checked all the wires on the spark plugs and they were snug. I simply adjusted the idle speed screw so that it was back up to around 1000 RPMs, and it runs normally now, but at first (right after I adjusted it) the engine was hiccuping, or lapsing rather. What could be wrong with it? I fear that by simply adjusting the idle speed screw I'm only treating the symptom and not the cause of the problem.
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Hey all, I've got a beatufiul 78 subaru brat, and looking for a snugtop for it. The weather has been a bit inclement here, and would really enjoy having a camper top to haul my dog / equipment worry free. Would be willing to pick one up in OR, WA, ID, and CA. Also, has anyone heard of anyone homemade campers on brats? thanks!
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Anyone used a jeep (cj7) tcase to do the tcase mod? After monster brat fell through due to the rust, I'm hoping to salvage some of it. Everything that isn't frame or engine is bueno and I have 8" c channel from its bumpers (no rust) to use for the lift. Any disadvantage to doing it with the jeep tcase?
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So I got a few ideas, but what if I wanted to make a run of a few? Does anyone have any input? I have a reliable machinist who can make anything (including airplanes) and we got to talking. For a close to original looking one it would be about $70each for a run of a hundred of them. Thats a lot to shell at once. Thats also a rough estimate but chrome is hella costly and there isn't that much of a market. What do you all think or want?
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hello.. ive been looking for a old Subaru to restore. ive have never attempted to restore on my own, but have worked as a helper with several friends on restoring old cars. non where subarus but it did give me some experience. i've worked on an old buick and some various chevy's along with my own 86 Corvette (a absolute pain to) i have found a subaru brat made in 78. the condition is good. the owner had passed away and had rebuilt the engine and drive train. how ever the interior and exterior still need some tlc. but its a restoration car whats the fun if its all done the exterior has chipped paint with some surface rust( but not all the way through) paint is also faded the owners wife wants $1200 for it. she does not know anything about cars and is not able to give me a good account of his work so far other than the engine and drive train. but... it does come with the original roll bar( great condition), the original rear bucket seats( fair) and finally the camp shell is included. all this for $1200 should i be weary or is this a true deal of a life time
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Hello, I got an 84 brat and it ran awesome, however within 2 days the fuel pump went "out" replace it and still nothing. So a kid my age had it before the owner I got it from and kind of messed with it all. I'd like to rewire is so I know the pump is betting proper voltage and everything. Does anyone live in Vegas or near that would possible help or just schematics for a good rewiring. Also any other help for a restore would be helpful. This will be my first restore. V/R
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Hey USMB The Car: 1983 MPFI Turbo Brat - 170,000 miles 2" body lift 5-sp D/R Transmission Swap (originally 3-sp auto) Water Cooled EA82 Turbo Swap (originally oil cooled) EA81T The Problem: I am having issues with the brat running rich, with a lot of fuel in the mixture. I have replaced temperature sensors, air flow sensors, the O2 sensor and i am still running into the same issues. as a result, my fuel mileage is around 19 MPG, and i have a strong hydrogen sulfide smell (almost an ammonia smell) coming from the exhaust, especially when i spool up the turbo and bring the RPM's up into the ~3000 rpm range. My concern: The engine was designed specifically for the Oil-Cooled turbo in 1983 (in '84, they were recalled and replaced with water cooled versions), I have a suspicion, because i am running out of options, that the computer for the MPFI was not designed for this specific turbo. As a result, it has mismanaging its fuel-to-air ratio; causing it to dump more fuel in than is necessary because of the extra amount of air volume it is sensing, then calculating. Does this prognosis seem in any way logical to more knowledgable USMB members?
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Trying to locate new plastic clips that hold the rear bumper extensions against the body. They're 20mm with a shoulder the bumper extension slips in too.
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Just picked up an 85 BRAT, mechanics good, Interior great, working on rusted areas. Biggest problem is the panels under the bumpers and tailgate. Any suggestions appreciated.
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What do I need to do for a 4 inch lift to the steering shaft, shifter, and 4wd selector? Can I just take off my current steering linkage cut it in half and weld in some pipe? I'm doing 4 lift blocks all the way around, and then 4 inch strut spacers as well, with the offset. (I figure that will correct the front struts because if you don't you wouldn't get the lift and your cv axles would be pointing to the sky? Currently have a rather sketchy 2 inch lift in and would like to fix that. For the shifter do I just need to make it longer? and the 4wd selector is the one that's confusing me the most. Thanks
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So the title pretty much says it all, can't get my brat's interior lighting to work besides the dome. Would very much like to have that, what are the main wires for that? Also, my heating doesn't work, but I don't have my ac compressor connected, don't know if that's the problem or not. Anything helps Thanks -
I fell in love with a Subaru Brat a few years ago while at a stop light. Ever since then, I've been looking for one in decent shape. I found this "Brat lee" and now am now the proud owner. I don't have a ton of pics yet, but here I am getting ready for a test drive. Has the back seats and body in great shape. Interior needs some help so I'm hoping this forum will introduce me to some people in Portland,OR area who can help me down the right path.
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Hey Guys I was just wondering who daily's a Subaru Brat , and if y'all have problems with the power, or lack of?
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84 Brat Intermittently Grounding Out?
jmoss5723 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I did some searching, but I didn't come up with much and electrical issues are my biggest weakness. So if I'm asking dumb questions, please enlighten me with your ingenuity. The car: 1984 Brat with a replaced EA81. When the engine was replaced, some "extras" were removed and I definitely have some wires to nowhere. The issue: Recently, when I turn the key to start the car, 1 of 2 things happen. It either: 1. Starts right up. OR 2. The dash lights up, the battery gauge needle hits about 8-10V and the starter doesn't turn. If it starts and I drive it there are no issues. If I roll start it, jump it with the 50 amp setting on my batter charger, or jump it from another vehicle there are no issues running it and driving it. Once it is running the needle sits just above 12V and everything is great. I got my battery tested. It is supposedly fine. It seems that no matter what, if I drive the car then shut it off, it always starts back up if I try within a few minutes. The questions: Is my starting circuit grounding somewhere intermittently and killing my battery? I'm assuming an intermittent short to ground because sometimes the battery is fine and other times it gets drained very quickly. What should I look for? Edit: I'm not sure if it matters, but the car had been mostly sitting for a year while I worked on it off and on to finish the lift and do some rust repairs to pass inspection. I just started driving it again last week and that is when the issue started. Edited again for grammar. -
He Folks, I'm looking for replacement hubcaps for my 1979 BRAT. It has the white spoke wheels The hubcaps are very thin metal and go over the wheel studs BEFORE the wheel is installed I'd really like to get replacements just like them, but I suppose if there were different ones that snapped in from the exterior of the wheel, I'd take them as well. Picture below. Thanks in advance for any help -
The time has finally come for the Ignition Lock to get stuck in my Brat. It was already in a state where the key could be removed in any position and while driving around. Currently it is stuck in the Run position, and can start the car, but will not turn back to shut the car off. Is it possible to remove this lock cylinder? I have a parts GL Brat with a good lock cylinder in it to swap out if so. 1985 Brat Gl (tilt column steering)
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Found this on craigslist yesterday and couldn't resist going and getting it. Even with the supposedly bad motor it was still worth getting it. Once i got back home with a fresh battery and a little cranking she fired right up and ran fine. even has a skid plate seats are reupholstered wood shifter Factory cruise control in orange along with cluster ac
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so I'm just trying to see if this is possible. what i'm thinking about doing to taking a 86 brat and pull the motor and trany. i've found a donor car that i would take the trany, drive line, rear diff, and cv axles out of so i would have stronger parts to hold up better. i figured i would have to get a drive line made to fit the right length. i want to put a ej20 or ej22 motor into it to give it some go. the donor car is a mid 90's legacy. i just want to try and find out what i need to do before i get to deep into this build and get stuck. anything will help out.
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Hi, I'm wanting to put power steering in my Brumby. It will have an EJ with EJ P/S pump. My major question is does the Legacy rack have less travel (turning circle) than the EA82 rack? I know the EA82 racks are very much like the EA81 racks for allowing sharper turning circles but the 2000 model Outback rack is very limited with turning circle.. Thanks, Phiz
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Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make a cold air intake for a swapped ej22 brat? i want a real cold air not just the short ram. thats what i have right know and it real sucks with the rapid changes in temp here in colorado. I lack power when its above 65 degrees. Don't know if thats related to a missing rear o2 sensor though or coming from engine bay temp. But i still would like to make a Cold Air system for the Brat. Any suggestions would be much appreciated (mainly where to put filter and material to use) -
This is my 1986 Brat. It had some engine problems when i first got it but now runs well. It is still in pretty rough shape bodywise though... And needs alot of body work. Working on restoring it little by little but living all the way in Guam its pretty hard to find parts.
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Here is the poor Subaru I got just a couple weeks ago... Just the basic pics here - doesn't look too bad for a neglected relic, somewhat fossilized from decades of red dust sediment on the interior, which I had to use a heavy grout brush and even a screwdriver at times to remove. This is after having cleaned it up like three times. There was no point in showing it at its worst when I first got it, it would be nothing you guys have not seen before I'm sure. Funny thing that occured to me... every slightest nook, cranny, crack and screwhole in the interior had this dense red dust crust on and in it, but the dash, aside from being horribly sun-baked, has normal destruction and dust/dirt, but hardly a trace of that red stuff on it. How the hell does that happen ???
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So I'm in the process of revamping my exhaust. I've taken the ASV brackets off of the exhaust manifold, and I'm going to extend my Y-pipes up to the engine itself without the brackets. I took the old crusty gaskets out, and I'm buying new ones. But all of the gaskets that it seems I can order are just simple rings, whereas the ones that I took off were the shape of the pipe flanges on my Y-pipes. My engine is an EA81 on my '83 BRAT. What kind of gaskets do you guys have at this spot? Will the simple, circular ones work? My whole point of working on the exhaust in the first place was to keep it from leaking right at this spot, so I want something that will hold well.
