capn_r

What is your question?

An RV tank that has a liquid port is fine as long as it is mounted in an approved safe location.

Keep us posted on progress!

So we should check out cost on M12-1.25 fasteners correct? what length and and head type would you prefer? Or should we spec out a regular wheel stud to press in for the 5 bolt pattern? And / or....Thanks!

I may be interested in some as well. I could probably locate the fasteners locally. Thanks!

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/2.5Timing.pdf

Were the roller rockers use on the cams meant for the other style rockers?

The mechanical seal is probably slobbering out the weep hole. Is there a chemical that may somewhat revive those seals?

I believe what Gloyale is saying is that a phase II intake won't bolt to a phase I head.

The front turbo and non-turbo crossmembers are different but I'm sure the rears are the same.

Are you sure that the spline count and diameter is the same on the two axles?

The engine turns clockwise viewing from the front. Standard right hand threads.

I think maybe refrigerant recovery is being confused with evacuation. (Pulling the system into a vacuum)

One major item to overcome on this project is that the Corvair engine turns the opposite direction of the Subaru. A Subaru engine mounted in it's normal configuration would have to be mid rather than rear engine to not end up with one forward gear and several reverses. You would also want an early EJ fwd 4eat to not have to mess with eliminating / de-activationg the rear drive portion of the transmission. Good luck with your project!

Was the system evacuated prior to the charging? If you had to "drain the high pressure valve" to to get the compressor to come on I would guess the trinary switch was open due to excessive pressure. ( I may be mistaken that the EJ's have trinarys) The probable combination of non-condensable gases and the refrigerant creates very high pressures. (Dalton's Law)

NFPA 58 is the source for US LPG information. Check it out.

"Technically, yes the bolt pattern goes on one way due to the spacing of the bolt holes, but they are close and a flywheel can be installed incorrectly if someone makes it fit." So are you saying someone found it easier to slot some holes than to line it up the way it was designed? "I would also recommend checking everything else again before pulling the flywheel, but it shouldn't be that far off." I gave a solution for checking the timing marks that doesn't involve pulling the flywheel where you would determine if the marks are on or off. "The only way for it to be that far off from #1 TDC is if it's not connected correctly." See above. "The piston and rod are connected to the crank, the crank is connected to the flywheel, if they don't line up, there isn't anything in between." ????

If I remember correctly the flywheel bolt pattern only allows the flywheel to bolt on one way. I would do a "positive stop top dead center" check and see if the marks on the flywheel are accurate. If it is not correct possibly it has an EA82 flywheel on it.

It appears you may be in luck. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138237-found-a-couple-of-new-windshield-gaskets/

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AQRZ4P7Q-o8/UNygrZspyQI/AAAAAAAADU0/YrFU2FwDAEg/s1600/Project1.png

Steering coupler needs to be longer. A friend of mine used factory early outback crossmember spacers (about an inch and a quarter thick iirc) and an early Legacy steering coupler on his two inch lifted Loyale. He had a slight vibration before the crossmember drop that went away and he didn't have boot issues.

That is the EA81 front axle part number to the best of my knowledge. What is the problem you're having? Is it where the bearings run on the axle that is too big or the inner seal surface?

Thank you for so tactfully enlightening me, I have dealt with Napa for over forty years and didn't know it was so undesirable.

On my 88 GL10 I'm running an EJ radiator, it wasn't bad to mount and plumb and it made it practical to keep the A/C. It looks like you're not far away if you would like to check out how I did mine.

The code will be on the passenger (right) side lock cylinder. If I remember correctly the code is the last 4 of the 5 digits or something close to that. As was stated above a good locksmith can make it happen.