Numbchux

OD of the inner wheel seal is different between XT6 and EJ. They will not interchange. Here's my post about seal dimensions, including part numbers for interchange: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/97563-how-long-will-axles-last-2-lifted-xt6/?p=821114

In my experience, the ECU will prime the fuel pump at least once if the power and grounds are all connected correctly. If the starter signal has been triggered a few times (there's probably a total time equation of somesort in the ECU program) with no signal from the crank angle sensor, it will stop priming the fuel pump. Truth be told, the fuel pump circuit isn't MANDATORY, as the engine will run with the pump on it's own dedicated source. But, it's a pretty simple circuit, and will give you quite a bit of insight on what the ECU is doing.

Yea, I had that grill in a couple later EA82s....I really prefer the way they look. Just ziptied it in.

The trans cooler is built into the radiator (as it should be to work correctly). The transmission operates at a higher temperature than the engine, but it only needs a relatively small capacity cooler and low volume through it because it's letting the coolant do most of the work. In order to do the same job, but only relying on airflow to cool the fluid, a much larger capacity cooler would be required. The correct way to add an external trans cooler, is to add it in line AFTER the cooler in the radiator. This way the ATF gets cooled off considerably as it goes through the radiator, and then is cooled off further in the aux cooler. So the answer is simple. The heat energy generated by the transmission is put directly into the engine coolant. Of course, the rest of the cooling system is built to accomodate that, so it's not really a big deal. As presslab said, energy cannot be created or destroyed. The engine converts the energy in the fuel to heat and torque. An Automatic transmission takes the torque from the engine, and in order to function, some of that torque is lost and converted into heat as well, which has to be dissipated. A Manual transmission is much more efficient, so much less of the torque is lost and converted into heat.

I daily drove my car for a year with that wire dangling. It cranked longer, especially in the winter (no choke), but it still started every time. I don't believe that circuit is designed to hold any sort of load (hence the small gauge wire going into the ECU), so if your voltage drops elsewhere, I think you need to resolve that. But, I haven't tested it, or seen any concrete information either way. Of course, it should be hooked up for correct operation, but I don't believe, for a second, that that has anything to do with the issue seen here.

Starter signal will not effect spark. It just changes the fuel trims (choke). First thing I would do is un-hardwire the fuel pump (or, at the very least, hook a test light to that wire on the ECU) to make sure that your ECU is powering up correctly. If your ECU isn't priming the fuel pump, you have bigger and simpler problems.

Well, since I hate it when people don't follow-up when they have issues....I suppose I better follow up. 2 drain and fills (about a gallon of new ATF each time) didn't help. Replaced the TCC solenoid (another gallon of fresh ATF), nothing. So, again with the knowledge that it's temperature-related, we decided it had to be mechanical. It just happened that my friend who's helping me fix and flip this car just parted out an 01 2.5RS with a 4EAT, and that trans was sitting on the floor of the garage. We didn't want to do it, but it had to be done. Long day on Saturday, a few issues, and a few surprises (3 new greaseable u-joints in the driveshaft!), but the transmission is swapped. We re-resealed the oil separator on the back of the engine while we were at it, as it was seeming to leak a bit. The problem has gone away. Long story short, I think it was the converter itself having a mechanical problem causing it to stick on when the fluid was not up to temperature.

Well, no N/A EJ ECU is re-tuneable.....so unless you're running a standalone, that's not an option. Assuming this is an up-stream 02 Sensor (it helps to know what year, model, size, etc. EJ you have ), it is used to constantly adjust fuel trims. Yes, install it.

If you want a really nice motor....Colorado Component Rebuilders specializes in Remanufactured Subaru engines. http://www.ccrengines.com/

Can it? Yes. But pretty unlikely. It's more likely to seize (that's right, freeway speed, locked wheel. Very dangerous, and could do serious damage to differentials/transmission). Also really hard on the tire, so you could have a catastrophic tire blowout. Long story short, get it fixed. It is dangerous.

EZ30R is not a real engine code. The model is called a 3.0R, but the engine code is EZ30DR.

What? No, not at all. EZ30D has single exhaust ports. EZ30DR has a unique manifold. Unique, as in not the same as anything else. The flange is the same as the EG33. So SVX stuff will physically bolt to the engine, but I don't know about how it would fit in comparison to the rest of the car (EZ series is much smaller, so the flanges might be further back in relation to the crossmember, transmission, etc.)

EZ30DR has a unique exhaust header. I know the EG33 has the same flange on the engine, but I don't know if SVX exhaust would work.

Typically, a noise that only happens when turning one direction is a wheel bearing. IIRC it's the outer side that makes the noise (in this case, right turns = left side). So I would start by jacking the car up, and see if there's any play in the bearing (the wheel would wiggle in any direction, not just one).

I have had AAA for years. I really like it, and use it fairly regularly. The basic package covers hookup and the first 5 miles of a tow, which is usually enough to get you to a repair shop, but if you want to bring it home, or specify exactly where it's going, it's worth bumping up to a higher package for the 100 mile tow.

Sounds like manufacturer defect. I haven't been terribly impressed with Gabriels as far as longevity is concerned.

So, since my last update. I was going to get supplies for the camping trip the night before I was planning on leaving, and it stalled again. Tried a bunch of things to get it running again, and it randomly started working just long enough to get it home. So I parked it, took insurance off it, and didn't really do much all winter. I did do some planning. I bought a USB-ALDL cable to plug my laptop into the ECU, so I could datalog with TunerPro RT, and maybe catch it acting up. I've been driving it to work all week this week, and yesterday, I went to head home for lunch, and it wouldn't start. I scoured through parameters on the computer, and couldn't find much more out. I confirmed my suspicion that it was not getting fuel, but couldn't find an indication on why. So I ran inside (I work at AutoZone) and grabbed our loaner fuel pressure tester. Sure enough, 45 psi, which is not enough to open the poppet valves in the spider injector. After playing with things, and cycling the pump a bunch, all of a sudden it jumped up to 55, and the truck fired right up. The pressure did not drop at all when the pump was off....so it had to be the pump. The pump I was running was a universal inline rated for 65 psi that I got on Summit Racing, that I then mounted in-tank. I had a makeshift strainer on there, but when I pulled the pump out yesterday, the strainer was floating in the tank. So I bought a new Airtex pump designed for the blazer (rated for 90 psi!!) after lunch yesterday, and put it in. Along with it's matching strainer. I also noticed that my VSS calibration (I just hooked the Toyota signal wire from the dash to the Chevy ECU) is off. The ECU thinks I'm going almost exactly double what the dash indicates. So I need to address that.... Hoping to get it on the trails in less than 2 weeks!!!

Excellent! And you didn't need to buy a new ECU!

Yea. Completely not applicable. The 5-speed holds up pretty well in the lighter GC chassis behind an H6. It'll be fine in a 914. Also, 2WD probably (depending on tires) means the traction will give out before the trans

ECU signal is indeed a ground and yes, it definitely could be a 2 write job

The stock EA82 electric fan has a power relay, and then the ground wire for the fan runs directly through the thermoswitch. I don't think there's an easy way to wire that in. But yea, you could definitely just grab a generic relay, and hook the control circuit to power on one side and the other side to the ECU signal. It wouldn't have any idea if the switched circuit was hooked up to anything (if you don't want it to).

Nice. I know I've had to add them before on some later ones, but I thought I'd seen some earlier (96-97) that had the pin. But it sounds like you've got it all sorted out, as far as that's concerned. Changing the ECU to think it's an MT will change some of the maps for when the IAC opens and such, but AFAIK it doesn't effect how it operates, so it shouldn't require any re-wiring or anything. So yea, clear the code, clean the valve up, and see if it happens again. It may have just been a coincidence.

That is only for pull-style clutches. Which only came on turbo engines. If you have the nuts off the motor mounts, they will just lift up out of the crossmember. Support the transmission with a jack so the engine can slide off without binding on the studs on the bottom of the bellhousing. And yea, if it's an automatic, remove the 4 bolts that hold the flex plate and torque converter together. There's an access hole on the top of the engine side, just to the passenger side of the throttle body.

Kind of an uninformed, wongleflute response. Napa stores are almost all franchises, and the individual franchise owner is allowed a lot of freedom in where they get their parts. So there's very little consistency from one location to the next. Duralast is not a manufacturer of anything, just a brand. You'll find the same parts in those boxes that you'll find at any other major parts store. Like I said, I got a clutch kit for my Brat ($100, and I got an employee discount off that!), that's an Exedy. The EJ clutch that we stock is a Valeo. I've seen suspension parts that say Moog on them (even though Moog is supposed to be an Advance auto exclusive). Almost anything remanufactured is Cardone. Batteries are Johnson controls. Electrical components are Wells. etc. etc. etc. And, regardless of where you go, it really matters who's standing behind the counter. The store I work with has generally an awesome crew, lots of knowledge. Except one guy....who thinks he knows a lot more than he does, and makes some assumptions when he's looking up parts. Anyway. Torxxx, AFAIK all legacies are the same wheelbase. I did quite a bit of research on them when I did my swap, but it's possible I missed that. If the wheelbase is in fact 2" longer, than the overall length will be right, just have to move the carrier bearing. If you do decide to go custom with your kit, there's a local company here in Duluth called Lakehead Clutch. They do some really awesome work, and I could hand-deliver an XT6 core for them to rebuild for more holding force.

The connector diagram on an ECU pinout is looking at the ECU connector. And on the wiring diagram, it's looking at the connector on the harness. So they're mirrored from each other. The wire that goes through the inhibitor switch or starter interlock relay is the starter signal, not the identifier. I looked at a '97 diagram, and that's on pin 86, which matches the pinout posted in the other thread. So that pinout was NOT for a '95. Edit: I just did some more digging. I don't have a good pinout for a 95, but I did a little copy/paste of that pin from the diagrams from a 97 and 95 Legacy. Pin 81 is correct for a 96-99, but for a 95, you need pin 50. Sorry I didn't catch this sooner!