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Showing results for tags 'Legacy'.
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Ok so this is probably been answered someplace unknown to me. I have a 1999 Subaru legacy outback SUS EJ25D with the 8 bolt bell housing hookup. I continue to run into people saying that car is type specific as far as engines go. what are my options? can I use a JDM 4 bolt EJ25D or EJ22 because I cant seem to find a 25 that's not high miles and very expensive 1300$ was the best I could find. I am interested in these 4 bolt JDM motors. will they work Plug and Play with my 99 SUS? Thanks all this is the JDM I would like to use
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I am planning on replacing the stock radiator. Which brands would you recommend? There are a huge range of brands and prices from generic, no name for $65; to NISSENS for about $145. Thanks for your input -
New to the subaru following. I have always like subarus and now I own a 1997 Legacy SLi Wagon I will never look back. Picture to come soon
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Anyone experienced similar issues, Please help?! She's a 92 Liberty GX AWD Auto wagon, EJ22. After sitting overnight, If I start and run motor on a short trip, like around corner from home to filling station, and switch her off before reaching normal operating temp, she then refuses to fire up again for about 20mins or so! Engine rotates but won't fire up! Half hour later when she does fire up, she puffs out a small smokey bluish cloud, like she's clearing her throat or something! Anyone have suggestions or similar experience to share?? -
Hey Everyone. I have a '95 Legacy LS. I'm pretty sure it's about time to change the struts. I believe they are original parts on a legacy with 350k on it. I was thinking about putting some outback struts on it, hopefully giving it 1 to 1-1/2 inch lift. Just enough room for a slightly more aggressive tire. I'm not sure if I can just swap the struts out or do I need to swap other parts out in addition to make it all compatible. Thanks for any input you have Travis. -
Quick question, I have a 2002 Subaru Outback sedan Automatic with the 3.0L but has a back read diff. and I was wondering if I could take a read diff out of a 2001 Legacy L which is also an automatic with the 2.5L and put it in the Outback. I know the bolts will match up I was just wondering about the gear ratios. I know that there's a difference between the Autos ans standards but wondering the same thing base models and Outbacks -
G'day from Australia! Looking forward to diving into these forums and exchanging ideas and advice! I just have to get used to everyone referring to my car as a Legacy, cause in Australia it's called a Liberty! From what I've read already it seems like the collective Subaru Knowledge and experience here could surpass that of the factory! lol...
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Hey all! I've been poking around the site searching for info on 6-Speed swap. I'm trying to find out who has paired a 6-Speed to their EJ motors and what all it entailed. In the mean time... -
I have a 95 Subaru Legacy, Starting to feel like my parents gave me a money pit. But I'm hoping to come out with a Money pit worth having. Did the wheel bearing myself, Car doesn't have reverse (Got transmission, going to get it swapped) The transmission sets me a little over 1000 for used transmission and trans swap. Just recently I got a battery light, car died while driving. I took the alternator out and the battery to the parts store, they tested both of them and determined my alternator was good, but the battery was bad. I bought a $125 battery for it, and here I am two days later battery light on earlier today and car dies while driving tonight. Some how "my alternator is good" but my battery is not getting charged. Anyone have this problem, Where do I start?? Thanks for all the help here ya'll. I got some great info when I originally posted about my transmission which led me to finding a decent deal on a used transmission. Travis-
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Hi, my 1999 Legacy SUS was recently totaled and I'm in dispute with the insurance company but perhaps I'm wrong and am hoping one of you good folks can help shed some light on the subject as google has NOT. I thought my vehicle was of the limited edition ilk and the vehicle was was repaired (body work) prior to my purchase several years ago. My question is this, "how can I tell for sure if my SUS was a standard edition or a limited edition"? Here's what it has: hood w scoop rear spoiler gold and silver wheels heated seats leather walnut interior trim around gear shift, stereo, door panels CD Sliding sun roof Power windows and door locks Keyless Entry ABS -
So a little while ago I was having idling issues on my legacy and it would stall out on occasion. However it I found out there was a rubber plug missing on the casing for one of the air filters, I sealed the hole (why they put the hole there in the first place I don't know) and it stop stalling and now works fine, however it still bothers me that it idles really low, only about 200 rpm, and somewhat rough too when the engine warms up. It doesn't cause any issues however its clearly to low, so im thinking about cleaning the idle air controller (there's about 172k miles on the car) and sooner or later getting new plugs and tips for i, will this up the idle and make it smoother? any other suggestions? -
It's has over 200,000 miles on it, it has the 2.2 SOHC, paid $500 for it knowing it had a bad water pump and is stuck in front wheel drive. It was a gamble I know... So I replaced the water pump, thermostat, timing belt, some bad gears, the spark plugs and the wires. It's still overheating, only takes a minute or so to overheat, there's no external coolant leaks, no white smoke. No coolant in the oil. It has the standard head gasket leak, so some oil burns off the engine which is expected because it's been sitting a while. I understand that there could be air in the coolant system, so i am going to try "burping" it... I'm also getting a new radiator cap. Then if that doesn't work, I'm going to try draining it and adding the coolant more slowly and carefully. Then, I'm going to see if the new thermostat works by putting it in hot water, and I am going to make sure it was installed correctly. If that doesn't work, I can purchase a replacement engine for $500, and I have low labor costs so that's not too much of an issue. There doesn't seem to be any problems with the tranny, besides the front wheel drive issue that a transfer case should fix, but I haven't driven it over 10 mph yet because of the overheating. So essentially, I was wondering if there was anything else I can do/check for before buying an engine. (It'll cost less in labor to buy a new engine as opposed to replacing the head gaskets) I'm also considering saying screw it and buying another Subie, but we shall see where the wind blows on that one. -
Recently was driving from VA to MN in my 92 Legacy L w/ auto trans & pulled off highway to get gas. When I got to stop sign had rough idle & almost no acceleration. Finally checked codes after double checking oil & trans fluid were all good. I pulled a 31, 32 & 35. Had no choice but to drive the other 700 or so miles with the car like it was. Got the O2 sensor replaced with a new one & replaced the purge valve with 1 from the junk yard. While I worked on car had battery disconnected. Started car up still slightly rough idle better but not right acceleration & check engine light still on. Checked codes again & got 24 & still 35. Have ordered another purge valve with 30 day warranty. Am I in any hopes of this & cleaning the Idle Air Valve going to fix my problem as I need to take family back to VA & not comfortable trying to baby it 1100+ miles with kids in the car. Found article saying I could clean air valve with sea foam after getting it warm enough for radiator fan to turn on & slowly pouring the sea foam thru the air valve & it said to expect a LOT of white smoke. Ideas suggestions please -
I'm wondering if anyone with a Legacy in the '95-'99 range that has a sunroof (power moon roof) could post a pic of the emergency tool used to manually open/close the sunroof. The '95 I recently purchased does not have the tool and I'm trying to figure out what I am looking for or what I can use as a substitute (is a hex head?). Thanks! -
Hi all, My 1996 Subaru Legacy GT had been through a crash but no damage to the Engine at all. So i decided to buy a 1998 legacy GTB body, so i could put my engine into that. I have got that done and now im down to the last couplie parts which is getting the timing done, and getting this ECU put in and hoping for the best that its gonna work. So my question is do i put the 1996 ECU chip in ? or the 1998 ECu chip in? because im getting it done as a home job. & unfortunatley the people doing it aint quite sure themselves. I hope someone can help me here , and also which is for which i have a chip that is black stickered with 87 on it and i dont know which MOdel its from, and ive been looking on line for 98 ecu's and their saying the 4g one is for that so im stuck. Also is it possible to do this? i have heard the car go before with the engine in but it didnt go for long, the coils and the ECU burnout, but its been soo long since ive looked at the car i have forgotten which one burnout. Both the cars are manual and the engine is a standard twin turbo engine that you get lol, even like wiring and stuff would some1 be able to help me there to do i put the 98 wiring in or the 96 wiring in. Some 1 please help thanks Cheerz -
Hello, I just got a 1995 Legacy. I had to take this poor car away from my parents, I just could not see her sit around and be a pile of junk as my parents tend to do with cars with minor problems. I fixed the wheel bearing last night. Now I am working on the transmission. It does not currently go into reverse, It is an automatic transmission. First, anyone else come by this problem. and second, does anyone know a good online dealer, or dealer in general of transmissions, I would like to not spend over 1000 on a transmission for it. Thats if it is not fixable for about the same price.
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So i bought this car last weekend and there were no problems with it. it sat for a few days while it waited to get registered. I drove it a little the day it got registered and the next day it started having problems. It drives great with 172,xxx miles on it but it has a really slow rough idle. it idles between 200 and 250 rpm and the interior and dash lights flicker and it shakes. it has stalled out twice at red lights but i had no problem starting it up again. PLEASE HELP. I have no idea whats wrong with it but I have very little money to spend on fixing it. All input is appreciated im feeling like this right now.
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Greetings- I just bought a '95 Legacy LS wagon with the EJ22 engine (EA4T with 143k) for cheap ($500) because it needs head gaskets. I'm going to do the work myself (first time for this repair) and I'm wondering if anyone in Northern VA area has a recommendation for a shop that can machine the cylinder heads after I remove them. I live in Springfield for reference. I'm going to pull the engine to do this so I am going to do the timing belt/water pump (of course) and already saw some discussion about the eBay kits with the Aisin water pumps (which looks like a great deal). I also see that there is decent amount of gunked on oil on/below the block so I am going to clean the block and investigate that and figure out what else I need to do (e.g. oil separator/baffle plate, etc.). I'm still trying to figure out which head gaskets I should use. I know the consensus for the EJ25 motors looks to be a HG with MLS. How about for the EJ22...do most people use an OEM head gasket? Decent aftermarket like Felpro that is similar to the OEM? Or some other aftermarket that is superior to the OEM? Any info is appreciated.
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The title is a little misleading, but I don't know a good way to describe it. I'll start with some background. 148k miles, just had a timing kit done on the car. Replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor after reading that this possibly was the cause for my rough idle and the engine cranking, but not catching when warm starting. By the way, this has totally solved my problem (fingers crossed).. this forum is awesome and thank you to all those that contribute... saved me a bunch of money on that fix.. But now, I'm just noticing (I don't know if it is because before I replaced the ECTS my engine was always running rough, or because I knocked something loose in the process, or what) when I'm accelerating, it doesn't accelerate smoothly. It seems to get through the first gear normally, then when accelerating through the next gear I can feel (and see the tachometer) the car kind of oscillate between accelerating at a predictable rate then slowing down (but still accelerating) then back up, and down again, etc. When watching the tachometer it will rise, then stop, then rise, then stop, etc. I don't know if this is making any sense, but I don't know how else to describe it. Any thoughts on what this could be, what to check, fix, replace, etc.? Also, when flushing my coolant and replacing the hoses, I noticed a small leak right next to (below) the air vent plug on the radiator. It is right where the upper hose connects to the radiator where that horizontal plane meets the vertical plane. Again I'm sorry if I'm not describing things in conventional ways... I'm not really mechanical at all, I'm just trying to be these days to save money. Anyway, do I need to replace the whole radiator because of this, or is it safe to use come kind of leak stop... if so, what recommendations for leak stop. I needed, I could provide pictures when I get home. Thanks for any and all help. I did do some searching for these things, but didn't find what I needed. I'm sorry if this stuff has been discussed already, just let me know and I can do more searching. -
Okay so here is my question, I have a 2001 Lego 5 speed with 125,xxx miles on her, and Is there any difference between O2 sensors for the automatic and manual? On Subaru Parts For You it lists that there are two different O2 sensors as seen here: http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Sensor%2C+Oxygen&year=2001 I just wanted to know of this was true or not because my car has the dreaded P0420 code and I have done everything to get if off such as running NGK spark plugs, OEM Beck Arnely wires, OEM coil pack when the original one went bad, new air filter, fuel filter, intake gaskets, head gaskets, and I already did a timing belt kit on it when it hit that interval including thermostat (used the proper one, not the ordinary one) water pump, and I'm running good 89 octane gas threw her. So the only thing left is to change the front O2 sensor and I have a used one that was good out of a 2000 outback but it was an automatic so I'm not sure if they would interchange. I'm going to try the seafoam trick tomorrow to see what that does. My New York state inspection is up in a couple of months and it needs to pass the OBII check being 1996 and newer...good ol' NYS!!!
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Hello, I have a 2002 Legacy L Wagon 5spd with 195k on it and it's in great shape, runs strong and I love it. I have put many hours into this car mostly in preventative maintenance (keeping the rust away is yearly task up here in SaltLand!). But anyway... my issue: A month or so ago I was pulling into a camping spot in some slightly off road conditions (which I do not normally do, I know it's AWD, but it's not a Jeep!). The place I was pulling into had shallow ruts and it was a very tight turn, and I had the steering wheel cranked all the way to the right and attempted to cross over the ruts and she stalled out because the front bumper cover hit a rock and I was being easy on the throttle. So, I was going to change my angle of approach and I backed up and tried again, and again, with the wheel pinned to the right, she shuttered, bucked and stalled out (remember, it's a manual transmission and I wasn't hammering the throttle). So, I then gave up on this way into the camp site and when I went to take off in first gear there was like this crunch, crunch sound coming from the front end. It was unmistakably a metal sound, so I thought maybe I was hitting a rock, so I got out of the car and looked under it to look for obstructions; and there was none. So I just shrugged my shoulders and continued on down the road. I started hearing like a "clack, clack" sound when I would let off on the throttle, and I thought maybe I broke a tooth on a CV joint or something. Later I noticed a whining when I got up to about 30 miles an hour, mostly when I let off on the throttle. It seems to go away when I give it throttle or am over 40mph. I showed a mechanic friend of mine the problem and he said not to worry about it... so I haven't been... UNTIL THE OTHER DAY! .... I was backing down a friend's dirt driveway and maybe going a little fast for being in reverse, but all of a sudden it just sounded like someone dropped a bag of ball bearings into my gearbox! It didn't entirely bind up tight (there were no skid marks) but it slowed way down, and as soon as this happened I threw the clutch in.... When I proceeded to back up, it seemed find again... It's been a week now, and it's still going, but has the whining and clicking sounds like it has since I broke whatever I broke. I will not be gunning it in reverse again! My question: what did I break, how can I fix it and how much longer do I maybe have until I will be without a ride? Has anybody else ever heard of anything like this or experienced anything like it? Any insight or direction would be appreciated. Thanks! Chris -
Hey Everyone, I'm happy to be back in the gang of scoobie owners. I just purchased a 1995 Legacy LS wagon (for $500) to use as a third car for my oldest daughter who is about to get her license. I have previously owned a number of family members: '86 GL-10 sedan, '87 GL wagon (loved that d/r), '88 DL wagon, and a '90 Legacy wagon (we had some bad luck with that first gen EJ22!). This wagon is in pretty good shape with only 143k miles and no body rust. The big project for it is the need for head gaskets. I'm going to work on that myself so I'll continue digging into the various threads here on that topic. I've seen lots of discussion about what gasket to use (OEM v. some other MLS) and I haven't figured out what direction I'm going yet. I have some time so I can do more research. I need to find a shop in northern Virginia (just SW of DC) where I can get the heads measured for flatness and machined if needed. Anyone have a recommendation? I look forward to using the board more. I received some great help (on the old message board!) when I changed my first timing belt on the '87 GL back in 2001 or so.
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Having an issue with my 95 legacy. It will start, and have a rough inconsistent idle, and will stall out when the accelerator is compressed. I have recently replaced the fuel pump, spark-plugs, and the mass-airflow sensor. Wondering if anyone has an idea what the issues could be. -
Does anyone know where I could get a set of head gaskets for my (EJ253) 01' lego with the 2.5 SOHC, But I want to get a set of head gaskets for the turbo'd 2.5 and need to find a place to get them that would my 01' lego
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I am trying to find the correct part number so I can replace these two hoses. At sixteen years and 241,000 miles I am, over time replacing all of the hoses. Picture is from Chilton's manual. I think if I removed them I could easily match them up to rockauto pictures, but I could easily damage them too. Thanks for your help.
