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Showing results for tags 'legacy'.
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I am a new member to this forum, but i have a problem that i need help with. I am a fairly knowledgeable shade tree mechanic but by no means am i a pro. when i got this car it had been sitting for over 6 months and had a dead corroded and nasty battery and cables. i didnt want to spend a lot to get it on the road so i cleaned the terminals put a new battery in and changed the oil. the battery terminal recently broke so i cut the cable to change the terminals. the positive was corroded almost 6 inches under the insulation. so i changed the cables that went to the alternator and engine ground. now the car wont stay lit. she will crank and then sputter out. i can keep her going with the gas pedal but she is slow to respond and then races. i dont think i did anything...... please help me with my baby -
I'd like to upgrade the exhaust. But all I can seem to find is set ups for GT wagons. Does anyone have any expierience with this? Will it work? ID also llike to upgrade the suspension. I've been looking at coilovers, I don't want to drop a whole ton on something like Tien's. Any suggestions? -
I purchased the car used about 6 months ago and had $2,500 worth of work done on it to get it through inspection. It seemed fine after that other than the shaking issue, but a few months later I also began to have acceleration issues. I had an oil change done in October at which time I also paid $50 for a diagnostic test and was told that I needed a new battery. But other than that I was not told that there is anything wrong with the car. I assume that the mechanic probably thought that my issues were linked to needing a new battery, and I honestly thought the same. However I basically continue to have the same issues even with a new battery. That being said, does anyone have any idea why the car may be shaking while idling, for instance while stopped at a traffic light, or why it may have trouble accelerating, and/or should I even bother to have it diagnosed again? Note that the car does have about 177,000 miles on it. If any more information is needed let me know. -
I have a 96 legacy with 262k on it currently. It started doing the 16 flash A/T transmission light. It ended up being code 24 (duty solenoid C / Valve transfer assy) I put in the FWD fuse and it didn't work at first (no FWD light). I decided to leave it in and see if its working at all. I noticed it might work for a day or half a day or 20 minutes and then the FWD light will go off again. (my thinking is FWD works when the solenoid is working with the fuse in)... I looked into prices and it would cost me around $2-400 to do the solenoid and clutch pack myself. or about the same price for a used transmisison here in phonenix. I don't want to do this job and then have it break again soon with such high miles. And frankly its hard to spend more money on a car that is worth around $2000 these days... So here are my questions... 1. What is the life span of a 96 subaru/nissan 4EAT? 2. Is it worth it to change the Duty Solenoid C / clutch pack on a tranny with 262k on it... WIll another solenoid or someting else likely go out in my transmission soon? 3. Could it be something being plugged up causing the FWD mode to work intermentately... to which a fluid drain and fill could possibly fix my woes? Your advice is appricaited! Any advice.... I've been thinking of selling it and getting a newer suby... I'm just so use to the 2.2 reliability and have been afraid of the head gasket issues of any 2.5 legacy/outback till 2010 which is out of the budget for now. -
We were gifted a 1990 Subaru Legacy for our family of 3. The previous owner said it overheated and leaked radiator fluid and didn't want to drive it. I checked it, replaced the $5 leaking radiator hose. Ta da! No overheating problem! Passes emissions. Drives smoothly. Passes Utah's safety check. Tires good. Ac/heat good. Fast forward some months... I now have a check engine light that came on. I followed the directions here with success: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm It runs codes 15, 24, and 35: 15:Fuel injector #2 inoperative (Abnormal signal emitted from monitor circuit) 24:Air control valve inoperative (Abnormal signal produced in monitor circuit) 35: Canister purge solenoid valve. Solenoid valve inoperative I have no idea what these mean, or if I need to worry about them. Anyone more experienced with this sort of diagnostic? Thanks so much! -Matt -
I am looking to buy a subaru and I've narrowed my choices down to 2000-10 Impreza WRX and 2005-09 Legacy GT Limited. What I'm wanting to know is what mods can I do to the LGT compared to the Impreza WRX and if there are such things as STi parts to put on the LGT and sources that I can use for research. Thanks in advance. -
I have a 2008 Subaru legacy limited 2.5L AT. I'm planning on draining the transmission fluid and adding new stuff http://www.amazon.com/SUBARU-AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-FLUID-BOTTLE/dp/B00FA2AD5U/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1416421234&sr=1-1&keywords=subaru+atf What I can't figure out is how much Fluid I would need to buy in order to satisfy the tank. I can't find in the manual how much the capacity is or online at the current moment, it only tells me how to check the levels and what brads to buy, maybe I keep skipping over it, if so I apologize for wasting time with said question. I was wondering if anyone could tell me? Greatly Appreciated -
Just bought a 99 LGT and am looking to lift it. I know I have to throw on outback struts, but I don't know if I should be doing the same year or a different one -
What size tires can I put on a 99 LGT lifted with 99 outback struts? And what could I fit with struts and Springs from the same model?
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Hi there, So I just bought a high mileage 1990 subaru legacy with the 2.2l and auto trans. I went into it knowing there were some issues to resolve, those being primarily leaking valve covers and some throttle body issues. While talking to the seller he told me that the alternator had recently gone bad and that he had replaced it with a junkyard one. He assured me he'd had it tested and it tested out well. I drove the vehicle a few days to figure out some of it's quirks before I dove into the project. After a thorough cleaning of the engine bay I drove about five miles, noticing some serious electrical malfunctions with the gauges and the headlights dimming, and eventually the car died from a lack of electrical power. Obviously, I jumped at the alternator. Pulled it and the battery out. Took the battery to work (I work at a Chevrolet dealership) for a full charge and a diagnostic to make sure that it was not in fact the problem. Battery tested great, so I charged it fully and put it back in the car. Next came the alternator. Again, took it down, got it bench tested and it too tested out fine. So I came home, installed everything again, hit the key and it starts right up. I hopped in to take it for a test drive and made it maybe 100 yards down the road before the whole vehicle just shuts off like someone hit an on/off switch. The only time I've ever had electrical failure to that extent is when the battery cables aren't properly hooked up, so I checked everything out and it's all hooked up fine. Tried to jump it with my Jeep and the motor still wouldn't turn over. So like I said, I'm a newbie to the Subaru world, so I was wondering if there's some engine ground that may have come loose that wasn't readily apparent or if there might be a fuse or relay that would cause these symptoms. It's very clearly all of a sudden not getting power to the starter and I can't figure out why. Any help is appreciated. -
I picked up a '92 Legacy Wagon Turbo a little while back, super cheap, low miles, (got it with 67,000km/41631mi) by an old guy go going blind which is pretty evident on the outside of the vehicle.... Anyway, I need a new water pump. Anybody know if the N/A engine water pump is the same as the turbo? Or is it different? His almighty holiness 'Google' hasn't been much help. In fact I'm more confused because there has been some mention of an oil cooler option as well... thoughts? Thanks..... -
Now I looked over the car with my mother and we test drove Nala (Her name, yes yes i Know. Childish, but Lion King will always be a part of my life lmao) and she ran great. She had a loose heat shield, which caused a slight racking noise, but the dealer fixed it right away before selling it to us (Sales person was really nice and very straight forward. Dealer had a really high rating with BBB, and my neighbor just bought a brand new Audi from the same dealer). I had a mechanic I trust look over the car and he said everything looked good to him. Tires, engine bay...etc. Now...Would you find it to be odd that a used 2008 Subaru legacy sold by an Audi dealership, has 3 Yokohama tires and one Bridge stone tire (Front right). And not even a full week later, the tire pressure monitor light goes on? I mean my mechanic and I both looked over the tires, and saw that the tires had plenty of tread, almost like brand new tires. Can't believe we didn't see that the tires had different brands. Now the sales person said that the car was previously owned by a girl who went to MIT, and that she took really good care of it. Clean Car fax, no visible wear, no quirks with the car, literally felt brand new. She took the train to school and left the car at home, so that's why this 08 has lower miles than an average car would, so maybe she caught a flat and then replaced it? The only thing that is getting me is the two different sets of tires 0.o' and the Tire monitor light are on a car I Bought less than two weeks ago. I was thinking of Calling the dealer and bringing it back to have them look at it. I'd rather tell me I have a flat or something after looking at it, instead of me assuming. But to my recollection I haven't run over anything that would cause a flat, or cause the tire to start losing air. But in this life, freak things happen. So what do you guys think?
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Hello people, I'm -finally- putting together my '01 Legacy L summer project, which I started too long ago. So long ago, in fact, that I forgot one or two things already :/ Among those things is where the ground wires/straps go on the engine. I know there are at least two of them: one going from the firewall to the engine (intake?), and one on the passenger-side suspension tower that probably goes directly to the block. But where? Thanks! -
I done some digging in the various forums but can't seem to find the answer. I have a 1990 Legacy wagon with only 140k on it. I've done the front struts but the parts store wants stupid prices for the rears. I've seen that I can swap top hats and use later model struts but i can't find exact information. If anyone has some for sale I'd be interested. I'm sure I need springs too. AFIK OEM is still in there from when my dad bought it new in 1990. You can also reply to mcopeland at pobox dot com Thanx, Mike -
Hi guys, I'm a longtime lurker but couldn't find an answer in the reg. threads. Recently I went to put my 2007 legacy in reverse by going all the way right and down (as should be done), however, I heard a popping sound and now i can no longer go directly into reverse vertically but can go in diagonally from the center neutral position. Has anyone had this problem or could point me in the right direction? -
Hi guys, I'm new to the forum and wanted to see if anyone had any advice on working on my Subaru. It's a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 2.5L DOHC engine. Of course I had the head gasket go so now it is sitting in my driveway as I get ready to work on it. What I wanted to know is there anything else I should be looking at and replacing while I am working on the engine. I know the timing belts are known to have some problems so I was going to replace that. Anything else I should keep an eye out for? -
Just a quick question for anyone who had had the joy of living in NY state... Im looking for new catalytic converters. Mine are rotting away at the flanges, only way theyre staying in is rust and magic. Nothing of any use at the junkyard, so my next choice- RockAuto. However it says that most cats arent legal for sale in CA or for NY vehicles with CA emissions. The Cal-cats are between $250-300 and I need two. The DMV site says that Cali emissions standards arent appliccable if the vehicle has over 7500 miles, but then states all1996 and newer vehicles must meet the standards. Anyone had this issue before? Can I go for the cheaper cats or do I have to get the expensive Cal-Cats? http://dmv.ny.gov/registration/california-emissions-standards The emissions lable on the hood says my car meets california standards, but my manual says that Subaru AWD vehicles are (in big, bold letters) EXEMPT from EPA emissions tests. Wat? -
How to replace/remove/reattach the plastic side trim that runs under the doors over the rocker panels? Any pointers to manuals, websites, or other sources woudl be appreciated. -Michael, NJ -
Has anyone tried these? Can anyone vouch for them? This is the link for my car: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DM9SZPI/ref=ox_sc_imb_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A6JK0PO3GJYXY If not I'll buy the Timken part from Rockauto. FYI the Amazon part is $34 including seals and snap ring. The Rock auto is a lot more as you purchase each part separately. Thanks in advance. As you know the job sucks I don't want to save 50% and do it again next year. Pressed bearings suck! -
so the other day when i went to park my 97 Legacy wagon, and put all the windows up, the Right Rear window would not go up straight. I've taken the door panel off to investigate what broke, and i found that one of the little plastic bushings where the window regulator arm snaps into and slides in the rail bolted to the bottom of the glass had broken in half, and so only one of the two regulator arms is actually attached to the glass. my question is, is this bushing available separately anywhere, or am i forced to just replace the entire regulator? a regulator is not too expensive, but two little plastic bushings have to be even cheaper, right? -
i suppose i shouldn't complain too much about a little ratting form a $700 car, but the tailgate on my 97 Legacy Wagon is driving me batty. at idle in gear, and over rough roads it rattles and buzzes like crazy. does anyone know of a way to adjust the latch or the rubber "bumpstops" in the doorjamb to stabilize the tailgate more when its closed? when i used to work at a volvo dealer, the tailgate bumpstops on the wagons were threaded so they could be made shorter or taller to slightly adjust how the tailgate sat when it was closed, but the bumpstops on my wagon seem to be solid. i should mention that if i really put some rump roast into it and slam the tailgate closed it still rattles a little bit, but not as much. any tips or tricks to cure this annoying problem would be greatly appreciated. thanks
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I have a silver 2005 Subaru Legacy Wagon and am looking to modify it. I am very new to car modifying and don't know exactly where to start. I was wondering what modifications would work well on this type of vehicle. I am interested in both performance and cosmetic mods -
i have purchased a used matching transmission for my 96 legacy because after driving it around with torque bind something in the transmission gave out. (i suspect it is the front diff, between the engine block and the transmission its self) My question is, is how can i check the resistance of the solenoid coil while i still have this transmission outside of the car. id like to know if it is faulty seeing as it is a used transmission, before i install it completely in the car. i am hoping someone knows what pins on the drivers side electrical connection plug is for the solenoid, and what the resistance should be. i really do not want to cut any of the protective outer jacket to trace out the wires on the connector. if i need to post pictures so people know what exactly i am talking about i can. B raynor -
Hello all, I have posted a lot here recently during two major jobs---replaced my clutch and did front end work, and later replaced timing belt. During these repairs, I also cleaned & re-packed my CV boots, changed transmission fluid (manual), and changed tie rod boots. I mention this since it might be relevant to my brand new problem, described below: I got the thing running again after the timing belt job, and took a victory trip of about 4 hours highway driving today, at the start of a vacation. During the trip I noticed some very minor steering wheel shudder on the interstate. Once I got off the highway and pulled into a gas station, I realized there was a significant vibration/shudder during tight right & left turns at low speeds. Feels like torque bind based on what I've read about it. But, I'm not experienced enough to be sure---perhaps it could be something else. I did some reading and noticed that (if it's torque bind) it could be my center differential viscous coupling. (I sure hope it isn't!) Relevant to this, I should point out that my transmission fluid was changed recently---but this problem didn't occur until AFTER this long trip. (I've heard/read that in old or poorly maintained cars, changing transmission fluid can cause problems). I did check my tire pressure to make sure this isn't being caused by low tire pressure. I've got 35 psi on the left, and 30 and 32 on the right side. I imagine this isn't enough to cause torque bind. Could I be wrong? I know I should have gotten an alignment done after the front end work, but I forgot to get it scheduled before this vacation. I figured it would probably be OK, since I counted threads when I was removing my tie rods and the vehicle isn't "pulling" to one side. I don't know if a slight misalignment could contribute to this. Also, after my clutch job, I experienced some bearing noise after a few minutes of driving. Eventually I discovered that this can occur if axle nuts are over tightened (this prevents bearings from being able to expand when they heat up). I loosened the nuts a bit and the problem went away. Now I am wondering if today's problem could be the result of the bearings being *much* hotter than they are in driving around town (i.e., 4 hours of driving 75mph). Could it be worth loosening the axle nuts? Finally, could the steering wheel shudder be related to the torque binding? Or are they probably unrelated problems? As always, thanks to all the brilliant Subaru experts who have helped me out on this forum. Much obliged :-) -
So I got a 1995 Subaru legacy outback for a first car for $1240. The car is a AT 2.2L boxer with 244,800 and counting on it. The car has a rebuilt title and I found out that's it's been in 4 car accidents. It's originally from Texas and has no service history on it. The last owner was told that the trans and engine where rebuilt. I will slowly do the things above from the title and be listed like that. So from 6/12/14 Mods: -Roof basket -donut tire delete Repairs: -fix radio to get it out of demo mode Maintenece: -air filter Questions: - I need suggestions for what type of shocks that I should replace with the one I have, the front left is shot and the other seem floaty -how do you fix the lights on the ac controller
