lmdew
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Everything posted by lmdew
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Turbo makes a lot of heat and all the hoses will be hard. I know GD has noted some turbo lube issues. Head Gaskets... I stay away from turbos. It makes a nice engine bay a hot and hard place to work IMHO. -
www.car-part.com is a good source for used parts.
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You multimeter can lie to you unless you are checking voltage under load! LoadPro is the tool you need to add to your toolbox and use on your multimeter. Get a 9v battery, read voltage at the terminals. Now wet your finger, put it on one terminal and put the meter lead on your finger and read voltage. It will be very close to the same reading but you can't power the circuit through your finger. The meter will lie to you. LoadPro solves that issue. Search LoadPro Voltage Drop test on youtube.
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Most folks don't keep and eye on the temp gauge. They overheat the bottom end, which is why I'd do the 2.2 swaps.
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www.car-part.com Pick up a low mileage 2.2 Do the Timing Belt and seals, reseal the rear breather cover and plug it in. I've done many of the 2.2 swaps and have been happy with them. If you can match the EGR and exhaust port config. its even easier.
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Much better outcome then a trans swap and the problem would have still been there. Great news!
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I have used bushing from Ace Hardware to replace the worn stock ones. Pull it off and head to the hardware store for the gear shifter. I'm pretty sure 90-94 are the same.
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Any progress?
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Could be. Try pulling one fuse at a time and see if it isolates the fault.
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Any CEL codes?
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95K Colorado Subaru $2000 bad body. https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/aurora-2008-suburu-ouback-body-bad/7410667635.html
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1+ on getting a parts car as el_freddo said. Happy to fly down and do the work, if you have a place for me to stay. Hot shower and coffee in the AM and XXX in the PM. Larry
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They are great cars. I have a 2000 OBS, auto. Manual transmissions are easy if it needs one, but with the low mileage I'd doubt it. Timing Belt and Seals if they have not been done. Change the fluids...basic maintenance and you are on the road. GD is in your city - Great Subaru Shop! http://superiorsoobie.com/
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I've done it, it's a large job! Why do you want to do the change? You need at a minimum the standard car: Brake box Trans mount Trans, clutch, flywheel, starter You'll need to update the wiring to make the ECU think it's an Standard instead of an auto trans.
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www.car-part.com is a great source to see what's at they yards and prices.
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I have the parts, but I see you are in Tasmania Australia.
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I have plenty. USMB Donation and the shipping. USPS Flat Rate small box. I think $8 now. Could send a few and other sensors if you need them.
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Have to get out the electrical diagrams. Every circuit has: Load, Ground and Power. I believe your power is switched by the relays in the engine compartment fuse box. Without the car details I can't confirm.
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I think I needed more coffee. Auto TC flex plates dia. It's been too long.
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Best to pull it and see what's there. Subaru's are like legos plug and play. There are some differences! Fly wheel dia for one.
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The Forester trailing arm body to arm mount is a little longer. If you are in the rust belt, use lots of Kroil and a breaker bar to work the 3 bolts out. Took a Milwaukee impact to a friends in WI and we broke the welds on the captive nut inside the frame. Solved that one by drilling an access hole into the frame from inside the car so we could put a socket on the nut.
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I had the new CCR do two engine rebuilds for me for cars I was fixing and selling. I was happy with both and never had any questions back from the new owners.
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Could be that 5 gallon bucket of Subaru nuts and bolts in the front seat. You got away before I could load it. Glad you made it.
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Rear Seals are usually NOT the leak source. The seperator plate on the back of the engine needs to be resealed. If it's the plastic one, Subaru has a replacement metal plate. Early ones were aluminum. Don't touch the rear seal unless it damaged or you can confirm it's the source of the leak. Most folks have more issues after replacing the rear seal. Having the sleave kit is nice. No way to tell if you need it until the engine/trans is pulled. The belt should be fine, another 20K to 60K left on it. Did you change all of the idler pulleys on the T Belt? if not, I'd to them now while the engine is out. Valve cover gaskets. Oil Pump reseal and rear cover plate screws torqued properly.
