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Showing results for tags 'Outback'.
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Hello All, I finally am getting around to telling the story of my daily, and laying out my plans for what I want to do with it in the future once daily duty is over. I am currently the proud owner of a 2002 Subaru (obviously) Legacy Outback Wagon Rocky Mountain Special Edition (I don't know what "Rocky Mountain Special Edition" is either don't worry). It has the base EJ251, and while it's a factory 5-speed car, it now has the 5-speed from a Bugeye WRX added by a long past owner. I'm not entirely sure what the rear diff is, one would assume it is WRX as well, but I have yet to check. As far as other mods go it's pretty tame for now, it has a polyurethane transmission mount that was put in when the original unit wore out, and my stepfather for what ever reason put on an exhaust from a Blobeye STi that has a sloppily welded cannon suck on the end and a dying catalytic converter. Everything else that has been done has been general maintenance, my stepfather did the head gaskets, timing belts and water pump when we first got it, I did the O2 sensors last year, and some more thorough suspension work the year before that (replaced both ball joints, and a new passenger side control arm and bushes). Everything else is fairly stock, stock wheels with Subaru recommended BFG's, stock interior with a new head unit, a body with some rust in the rockers and passenger side rear quarter, and its fair share of dents and scratches from daily driver duty for the last 15 years or so. This car was my family's gateway into the world of Subaru, my parents bought this car 5-6 years ago from a transmission shop for $1.5k, put a new clutch in it and tires on it. At the time they were going through bankruptcy, and needed something to drive while my stepfather was going back to work. It served as a daily for my stepfather for 4 years until they got back on their feet, and were able to trade up to something newer. He got himself a widebody Meaneye WRX hatch, and my mother got herself a later model Outback 3.6R. Rather than letting this car be wholesaled by a dealer, they kept it around and sent me off with it to college, which is what it has been doing for the last 2-3 years. It's currently sitting at 174k and change miles, and I absolutely have no intention of getting rid of it. My plans for it right now consist of making it the best daily it can be until I'm finished with school in another 2-3 year's time. Once I have the job and the time to do it, I very much intend to modify it. I'm leaning towards a rallycross/WRC offroader build with either a frankenengine, or just going the more expensive route and building an EJ257 from the ground up. Either way I will be bolting a 6 speeder to it, and uprating the suspension for high speed use and offroad duty. Expect more posts on this thread with updates, and posts from me asking questions as I'm still somewhat new to the intricacies of these cars. The last car I dailyed (and still have) was a '92 GMC so I have a ways to go and lots to learn before Im a Subaru pro. I hope y'all enjoyed my ramblings and this story. I look forward to posting more and reading more about these cars. -Ayy
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Hello! I think I finally found the right forums in arriving to this site. I've been buying Subaru wagons since the late 80's. My first was a '79 4wd, had an '84 (?) GL... Whatever. Owned 70s, 80s, 90s, & now 00s. I got a gen1 '00 Impreza OBS wagon and I frikin love it. I got a Manila envelope w/ repair receipts that wasn't titled "Subaru", it was titled "2000 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon" even though they never had other Suby's(!). I knew it was going to be OCD perfect, all in chronological order and extensive. I was right. Anyways, stoked to be here.
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2001 Subaru Outback H6 3.0 150k miles The issue is that cylinders 1, 3 and 5 (the same side) are throwing a misfire code. I can notice the misfire at idle and the check engine light will flash when it's occurring. There's also was a code 0491 in the freeze-frame, using my cheapo OBDII scanner. If I clear the codes I will still experience the missfiring at idle but when the MIL starts blinking , as in the case of a misfire, I can give it 200-300 RPMs or more and hold it there (or simply drive away) and the MIL will go away. The traction control "VDC OFF" indicator comes on and off simultaneously with the MIL during these instances. I notice no issues with acceleration,cruising or shifting, nothing indicates a loss of power. I have owned two of the EXACT same vehicle (only difference was color) that had a new chain and related componants and hg job so I know how the EZ30 should feel like. I have referenced the following links but there seemed to be an unclear closure on the two issues: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/82331-check-engine-light-blinking-after-timing-chain-tensioner-replacemen-fixed-now-p0420/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129688-misfiring-3-of-6-cylinders-in-a-2001-outback-h6/ Swapped around coils and O2 sensors and replaced plugs but no change was noticed. Took vehicle to Subaru Dealership and they were stumped. They suggested tearing down the head/removing timing cover and inspecting from there. The vehicle isn't worth that much so I was wondering if I could get your help. Have you guys ever come across anything like this ended up being another reason than the dreaded decision I face? Not generally a fan of additives but I will probably try seafoam in case it is a carbon buildup issue. Subaru performed various tests and everything checked out good. They also did compression test that isn't on their report and they said everything looked good around 150psi. I intend on doing a leakdown test as soon as I am able. This is Subaru's word (not much news really): Anyway, I understand I am in effect resurrecting old posts with this post but it has me and Subaru stumped. Thank you to anyone who cares to comment! -
So I've owned a lot of older Subarus (1990 - 1999) and have recently purchased my first 2002. I believe these come with the ej251? Regardless I bought it with a bad transmission and replaced it as well as the clutch. Changed the engine oil and started driving. Car ran great until I was climbing mountain passes. At 10,000 feet on I-70 the engine begin to slightly overheat not even at the 3/4 mark. Immediately after Crank bearing failure and knocking began. I removed the engine replaced it with a good one and began driving again. Drove over two 10,000 ft passes this morning and on my way back home engine failed in the same place as before with the same symptoms. Never once did the temp gauge go above 3/4 but rather went up only slightly before the crank started knocking. And this occured going up the pass on I-70. I have always used Valvoline 5W 30 and 10W 30 motor oils on my Subies with no lubrication problems. Fresh coolant and antifreeze, no coolant leaks seen at time of failure. The first engine could have had headgasket issues but this second one I really doubt it. Any thoughts? I don't want to have a third running engine installed and get this happening again. Both engines failed within 100 miles of the oil change. No codes, or check engine lights ever came up. -
Hello, I'm already working on an odd noise coming from the driver's wheel well but new surprise! The car is a 2010 Outback that we bought used a little over a year ago. 132,000/212,000km on it. Timing belt replaced at 100,000km (potentially miles though as the car is American). The valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, and spark plugs were replaced this past fall/winter. I did the passengar side but ended up having to take it to the mechanic for the drivers side. I'm assuming they did a decent job. I didn't replace the spark plug wires as I had planned on since the coil is on the wire making them crazy expensive. No starting/running issues since or before. I do have a trickle charger on the battery for the winter (1.5 amp) but it hasn't been plugged in for several weeks. The battery itself is pretty powerful, 1000 CA if I remember correctly. This has happened twice in the last week. The car starts fine from cold, drive it a short distance of maybe 5-10 minutes, go a short errand and car cranks but no start. The first time it happened I thought weird but it started on the second go a couple minutes later. No CEL but I didn't check with my code reader. Today it left my wife and son stranded at the daycare. They ended up catching a ride as it wouldn't start at all. I'll be walking/biking to pick it up in a little bit. I have been Googling and searching this forum. There seems to be a variety of potential causes ('*' ones seem most probably): Battery Coil/Spark Plug Wires Loose Battery Wires/Corroded Terminals Spark Plugs Fuel Filter Ignition Module* Fuse* ECT sensor* Crank Position Sensor* Cam Position Sensor ECU Fuel Pump Coolant Temp Sensor As I haven't been to pick it up I can't say about the really easy things to check but I was wondering if anyone knows of issues specific to the 2010 or that generation of Subarus that might explain what's happening? As it's only been twice I can't really narrow anything down but as it left the wife and kid stranded I'm a bit nervous. Edit: Just thought of this. We rarely drive far but over the past week we put about 2,000km on the car with two trips. If that makes a difference. Thanks in advance! -
After nearly two years of watching Craigslist and Subaru forums, I have finally found a 2001 Legacy Outback H6 wagon for trade whose owner is willing to consider my Passat 4motion 1.8T as a possible trade (since selling the Passat is hard despite all the work/money I put into it.) I'm supposed to go look at it this Saturday and it has had a lot of work done recently, according to the listing, despite being listed for $2,000. It's got some rust on the body, but it didn't sound major. I'm looking to hear from people who own third generation H6 Legacy Outbacks. What should I be keeping an eye/ear out for while looking at and test driving an H6 Outback. What sort of things should tell me that I should walk away and wait until I sell the Passat to straight up buy an Outback? Are head gasket problems as bad as the EJ25s of similar years? Is it possible they're trying to sell it because it's time for a new head gasket and they don't want to deal with it? EDIT: Shoot. The title could be worded so much better and I didn't realize you couldn't edit it until now. -
I am getting pretty surprised by how many high milage ej22's I'm seeing. When my 06 WRX just passed 100k and my dads 96 legacy outback that had almost 270k was running better than mine, i started wondering what was going on with these engines! How many miles do you guys have on your EJ22's? Super curious! -
I just bought a 97 Legacy Outback. It's my first Subaru and first automatic transmission. I'm noticing some strange behavior from the transmission and I can't seem to put together the right keywords to find anything about it. When I'm at a stop (at a light or in traffic) I can feel the transmission engage suddenly and try to pull the car forward. It doesn't happen all the time, but I'll be holding the brake for a while and then the transmission will kick in, the RPMs drop, and if I'm not on the brake hard enough the car will start driving forward as if I'm pressing the gas. It can't be good for the transmission to be fighting to drive while I'm fighting to hold it in place. I've been reading up on torque converters, but I don't have much experience with autos. Any ideas? -
Hello All! I am hoping if you could help me with my 3rd generation Outback wagon; I recently had an accident and banged my tailgate which broke the glass as well. Since, here in Mexico, the Outback is not widely available the dealer told me they will take up to 5 months to ship a new one. (which sucks) I found a 2nd generation Legacy wagon on a junk yard and and I would like to know if I can fit that tailgate to my model. Thanks in advance for all your help! -
My wife and I purchased our first Subaru - a 2013 Outback (~56,000 miles) in September 2016. In December, it began to exhibit an intermittent starting issue - the engine cranks (slowly) and fails to start approximately 10% of the time. The issue does not appear to be correlated to temperature. We first took the car to two mechanics who were unable to find any problem. Finally, a Subaru dealer told us that a diagnostic test revealed the car required a long crank update and that that should fix the problem. We paid for the update, but the problem persisted. A few weeks later, we took it back to the same Subaru dealer who told us that another diagnostic test found that the body control module was problematic. We paid for a replacement body control module, but the problem still persists. At this point, we've paid $700 for two misdiagnoses. We are fed up and are wondering if any one may be familiar with this problem and how to fix it. Thanks in advance for your advice. -
I am new to this forum as of today so I apologize if my format is terrible but I have a question concerning what engine I could put in my Outback. I threw a rod through my engine block and a local business is parting out a 2002 Forester 5-speed (my Outback is automatic). I don't know specifically what engine is in the vehicle but would whatever is in it fit my 2001 Outback? I currently have a EJ 251 I believe. Attached is the engine i'm looking at purchasing.
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Hi - a friend negotiated $5000 offf the invoice price of a Chevy and I've tried doing the same with Subaru at 2 dealerships. They say I'm insane and no one will do that deal. Are they lying or is it truly not possible to knock more than $500 off invoice with Subaru? And where can I find true invoice price? Thank you! -
Hi there, I'm looking for advice on doing an engine swap for my 1998 Subaru Lancaster which has just blown a head gasket for the second time. As the car is still in good nick and repair or professional engine replacement would cost as much as the car is worth I'd like to make a project of swapping another engine in. It would need to be complete/long block due to the head gasket issues. Which engines would be a direct swap for my car? It would be a DIY job with help from more knowledgeable friends, at the moment I want to start looking for engines and putting together cost estimates. Cheers -
I just purchased a '02 Outback LL Bean ed. with the 3.0L; I know with a heavy SW like the Outback it tends to sway and dip pretty good with aggressive turns and big dips, but I'm relatively sure it's time for a KYB strut upgrade project... I've heard rumors that Forester struts of some year models will be a direct bolt-in with the '02 OB and provide a stiffer ride/slight lift; has anybody tried this? What model of Forester struts do I need to fit into my OB? On a related note, if I decided to install the OB struts, is the strut spacer a viable option for achieving a similar lift? Trying to make mine look a little sportier and give some extra clearance/stiffer and more controlled ride. Thanks! Any recommendations appreciated... PS Does anyone with the H6 have the whiney power steering pump? I saw the easy fix with the 4 cylinder (the housing adjustment) but the H6 has a different configuration... I've heard maybe the O-ring in the PS fluid line is going bad and sucking air??? -
Hello all! This is my first post, marking my foray into modifying my currently factory stock 2009 Outback 2.5i Wagon. I live and work in Los Angeles, so I do most of my driving in the city. However, I have been making more and more trips into Death Valley, Mojave, and other desolate, rugged desert locations, and have been tackling some pretty rough terrain in return. I've shredded two tires in the handful of times I've been out there, both times from very large rocks. I'm interested in lifting my Outback, as I don't want to do permanent damage to my car (like I said, lots of very large rocks and rough washes), but I am a complete novice when it comes to knowing about cars, so I'm looking for some advice! Where do you think I should start? Larger tires would require a lift kit I imagine, also thinking about a skid plate, etc.... Pros and cons? Thoughts? Thank you all for any help! Cheers, Jack -
Trying to remove interior hatch cover to get at wiring. Everything on lower edge released BUT, the interior inset handle. Prying the trim down I can see two yellow plastic through clips, or whatever, but nothing will budge. How do I get that stubborn %#*~# off without tearing the surrounding plastic up? Stuck and stumped. -
Real plate lights both out, bulbs look good, I can't find a fuse/circuit reference anywhere in the manual. Anyone know where this guse is, snd why there is no reference?
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Hell folks, long time lurker first time poster. Having a heck of a bad week with my much loved outback (2004, 2.5l, Canadian). To keep things clear I will stat at the beginning... Just before Christmas, the wagon all of a sudden started to stall in neutral, or when I would press the clutch, this seemed to happen randomly when the car was warmed up. The problem went away for about ten days, only to reappear with a vengeance. (Check engine also appeared) so we bit the bullet and took it to a local garage. They said that there were misfire codes and changed the plugs/wires/coils, later in the day they called back and informed me that the problem was still there and that everything associated with the intake was heavily carbonized. So they did and injector cleaning,and cleaned all of the sensors. After that the problem was still present, they said the egr valve was too carbonized and beyond cleaning. I retrieved the car from them, deciding to find a replacement egr on my own. After removing and cleaning the egr myself (10 min job, was nice and springy after) the car seemed to work perfectly, leading me to believe we had been fleeced... The next day, leaving the city, everything was fine, until the car warmed up. Now my problem is: around 1-2000 rpm the car kicks and bucks like crazy, once past 2000 rpm the car works fine but a little jerky when giving gas, i re-cleaned the egr thinking maybe it needed further cleaning. After testing the car again today, same problem, after the engine is good and warm, it struggles and bucks when driving around in first and second gear till you are past 2000 rpm. After getting a big bill from a garage that didn't fix my problem I am dreading dropping more money at this than I have to. Anyone else have any similar experiences? Or can help me figure out what is going on? Thx in advance -
Thermostat? Heater core? I don't know. But I was driving down the highway when my 2008 Legacy Outback made a rattling sound. As I pulled off onto an exit, I lost power and smoke began pouring out of the engine. There was still fluid in the radiator although some of it had sprayed from under the cap. The mechanic said the engine overheated and blew. He offered to get me a used engine for $3500. I may not be the smartest girl on the block, but this doesn't sound right to me. It's had good upkeep and is a four-cylinder with 129,000 miles. Any thoughts from the Subaru savvy out there? Much appreciated! -
I'm trying to find steel wheels for my 16 OB. I'm looking to get 17's because they're apparently the smallest you can go without grinding down the calipers ???? I have no idea about offsets, spacers, width, or any of that jazz and would like some guidance. My car currently sits on th stock 225/60r18 tires and whatever wheels coincide. My goal is to get a fatter tire size. I don't care how far they stick out or anything, I just want them to be safe and practical. I do not currently have a lift, but I plan on getting on sometime in the future. -
Hi all! Just got my first Subaru it is a 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport that I recently picked up. So far it has been going great but I will notice something and can't figure out what exactly is wrong or if there is a problem to begin with. When driving I will step on the gas to accelerate and get up to 30-mph the Tachometer will rev up to about 2500-3000 until i get up to speed if I let off the gas pedal it will immediately drop down to 1000 rpm then back on the gas and back up. Just wondering what is wrong if their is a problem I will be getting the transmission fluid swapped soon as well if that will help. It is an automatic transmission as well. Thanks ahead of time everyone!! -
Manual s on line?? -
Room ably a bit of a silly question but where are the engine mount bolts on a 2010 2.5 Outback? I've been looking in my Hayes, Googling, and searching on here. I've come across a couple pictures and lots of 'undo to bolts' but not where they are or how to get to them. I'm in the middle of replace the value cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals so any help would be much appreciated! (Pictures would be awesome ) thank you!
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I'd like to say hello to everybody on this message board! We are from a small town dealership in Southern New Hampshire and we are excited to get to know everybody from the forum! I'd like to offer everybody here in this forum a special coupon to our online parts catalog! If you're interested in that feel free to shoot us a message and we'd love to help you out! Thank you everybody for taking the time to read this! We look forward to talking to all of you in the message boards! -Austin -
Hey guys, I have a '98 Legacy Wagon that I'm trying to read some CEL codes from. The problem that I am finding is that the black connectors are not anywhere to be seen under the dash. Also, when I connect an OBDII reader, nothing happens. No power. I've checked all fuses. I've been searching the internet, and it appears that my OBD port isn't the same as everyone elses... I've attached pictures of what my OBD port looks like. Pin 16 is supposed to be the power lead, but I don't have a wire there. Any suggestions?
