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Showing results for tags 'outback'.
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Just a quick question for anyone who had had the joy of living in NY state... Im looking for new catalytic converters. Mine are rotting away at the flanges, only way theyre staying in is rust and magic. Nothing of any use at the junkyard, so my next choice- RockAuto. However it says that most cats arent legal for sale in CA or for NY vehicles with CA emissions. The Cal-cats are between $250-300 and I need two. The DMV site says that Cali emissions standards arent appliccable if the vehicle has over 7500 miles, but then states all1996 and newer vehicles must meet the standards. Anyone had this issue before? Can I go for the cheaper cats or do I have to get the expensive Cal-Cats? http://dmv.ny.gov/registration/california-emissions-standards The emissions lable on the hood says my car meets california standards, but my manual says that Subaru AWD vehicles are (in big, bold letters) EXEMPT from EPA emissions tests. Wat? -
NOTE: this is a pretty lengthy question. If you dont want to read the whole thing there is a simple question at the bottom of the post. Though I highly encourage you to read the whole thing. THE SETUP: I was recently offered a deal by someone I know. He has a 1995 Legacy LSi BK wagon with a stock EJ22. He did a WRX drivetrain swap and swapped in a 5 speed from a JDM STi. Then upgraded the suspension with Bilsteins shocks/struts. Then added WRX wheels and a WRX front brake conversion. Outback limited interior swap, too. Some radio upgrades to top it off as well. The engine is kept stock since he meant to do a WRX engine swap to make a nice sleeper. He offered to sell me the car since he found a jetta 5 speed TDI wagon hes been looking for. THE DEAL: for $3,000 I get the car, rust free, another EJ22 with 140k on it, two GT hoods, GT side skirts, and a GT spoiler. THE SCARY PART: said stock EJ22 has 234,000 miles. And I would have to sell my low-miles 97 EJ25D 4EAT OBW to pay for it. The guy who did all the work is the bishop at my girlfriends church, works in a shop, and has owned 4 second gen legacies. He has done countless rebilds and I trust his work, it is very professional and complete. I have no worries about the swap, or any of the drivetrain, as its complete and too over-built for the 2.2 to do any damage to. MY PROBLEM: My concerns are with the milage on the engine... He said he got the second engine in a package deal with the JDM transmission and was told it ran, but never actually saw it run. Its a complete long block with accessories. 140k apparently. He intended to build it up a little but never has time. MY BIG PROBLEM is that since im still a young'n and live with my parents, they freak out if i consider anything above 100k miles. They know nothing about cars. My 97 OBW has just ticked over to 80k. Im worried about head gasket failure, and i have a leak behind my timing belt cover so timing belt, re-seal, water pump, somewhat failing thermostat is around $800. A head gasket job is $2400. My car works ok for now but I cant shake the feeling that its either a ticking time bomb or that something expensive will happen. Im working two jobs and dont have the time to work on it myself. THE SIMPLE QUESTION: how reliable is a 234,000 mile EJ22? And how can I convince my parents that?
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I have a 2009 euro Outback (fourth gen) which has the factory HID lamp units including lamp washing installation. In the manual it states that the HID bulbs must be replaced by the dealer. Currently, my both bulbs are fine but I know eventually they will fail. I know the type and where to order a replacement bulb on internet. Now should I follow the manual or are they easy to replace like an H4 bulb. (it states Danger High voltage everywhere). Additionally, how do I change the marker bulbs (T10/ W5W bulbs), since I can not access them with the lamp unit in the car. So basically: How do I get the lamp unit from the car? Is it really that dangerous replacing HID light bulbs? Suppose I disconnect the battery. -
I have a 1998 Outback wagon, 2.5L, 157K miles. My CEL is indicating P0325 so I ordered a replacement knock sensor. I removed the old one (housing is cracked), installed the new one, turned the key, and...just a click (the single starter click). The new sensor is oriented correctly -- it's not resting on the hump -- and is not overtightened. I removed the sensor, reinstalled the old one (the car did run with it, just had hesitation during acceleration), and...same problem...just a click. I measured both sensors on my multimeter using the "2000k" ohm setting. The old sensor reads 553 and the new one reads 552. What the heck could be wrong? There doesn't appear to be any corrosion on the engine where the sensor bolts down. I checked all nearby connectors and nothing is loose or disconnected. I even removed the negative battery cable for 10+ minutes to make sure everything is reset...no change. The car just won't start. Could I have blown a fuse? Which one? I'm really at a loss here... -
I have a 2002 outback and I want a true brush guard like you can get for trucks and suvs. Not just a bull bar or a light bar. One that comes over the head lights. And yet again I can not find anything online for it. Please help. -
Hello all, I have posted a lot here recently during two major jobs---replaced my clutch and did front end work, and later replaced timing belt. During these repairs, I also cleaned & re-packed my CV boots, changed transmission fluid (manual), and changed tie rod boots. I mention this since it might be relevant to my brand new problem, described below: I got the thing running again after the timing belt job, and took a victory trip of about 4 hours highway driving today, at the start of a vacation. During the trip I noticed some very minor steering wheel shudder on the interstate. Once I got off the highway and pulled into a gas station, I realized there was a significant vibration/shudder during tight right & left turns at low speeds. Feels like torque bind based on what I've read about it. But, I'm not experienced enough to be sure---perhaps it could be something else. I did some reading and noticed that (if it's torque bind) it could be my center differential viscous coupling. (I sure hope it isn't!) Relevant to this, I should point out that my transmission fluid was changed recently---but this problem didn't occur until AFTER this long trip. (I've heard/read that in old or poorly maintained cars, changing transmission fluid can cause problems). I did check my tire pressure to make sure this isn't being caused by low tire pressure. I've got 35 psi on the left, and 30 and 32 on the right side. I imagine this isn't enough to cause torque bind. Could I be wrong? I know I should have gotten an alignment done after the front end work, but I forgot to get it scheduled before this vacation. I figured it would probably be OK, since I counted threads when I was removing my tie rods and the vehicle isn't "pulling" to one side. I don't know if a slight misalignment could contribute to this. Also, after my clutch job, I experienced some bearing noise after a few minutes of driving. Eventually I discovered that this can occur if axle nuts are over tightened (this prevents bearings from being able to expand when they heat up). I loosened the nuts a bit and the problem went away. Now I am wondering if today's problem could be the result of the bearings being *much* hotter than they are in driving around town (i.e., 4 hours of driving 75mph). Could it be worth loosening the axle nuts? Finally, could the steering wheel shudder be related to the torque binding? Or are they probably unrelated problems? As always, thanks to all the brilliant Subaru experts who have helped me out on this forum. Much obliged :-) -
So I got a 1995 Subaru legacy outback for a first car for $1240. The car is a AT 2.2L boxer with 244,800 and counting on it. The car has a rebuilt title and I found out that's it's been in 4 car accidents. It's originally from Texas and has no service history on it. The last owner was told that the trans and engine where rebuilt. I will slowly do the things above from the title and be listed like that. So from 6/12/14 Mods: -Roof basket -donut tire delete Repairs: -fix radio to get it out of demo mode Maintenece: -air filter Questions: - I need suggestions for what type of shocks that I should replace with the one I have, the front left is shot and the other seem floaty -how do you fix the lights on the ac controller -
My car normally rumbles all the time, like a fast swaying feeling. It's not a noise, it's what I feel when I'm sitting inside. It is fine when I drive. It's usually fine when I stop. It normally idles at about 800 - 900 rpm's, sometimes 500 rpm's. Recently it's been doing it worse, but chooses when to. Today it was fine. It seems like letting it sit without driving makes it occur, say 1-2 days. It lasted for at least half of my drive if not more. I went to O'Reilley's and the guy there was stumped more than me. It almost felt like it was misfiring a few days ago, like one of the cylinders wasn't turning fully and that the ratio was off. It scared me when the rpm's went all the way down to the first white line, very low, and it was swaying a lot more than I'm used to. It got worse if I accelerated in neutral; it would come down and low-rev shake more. It made me feel like it had 6 months or so until that shaking turns into an engine that just stops running out of no where. Ideas: Throttle wire tension not to spec, Spark plugs, vacuum leak, EGR, timing. Note: MPG Perfect I checked the MPG twice in a row. It's still 27 mpg (Perfect, to spec). In fact it's 27.09 MPG going 80 MPH - 90 MPH, and 27.11 MPG going 75 MPH. I use 89 sometimes, but mostly 91. (92 requirement). I never use 87 and never will. Note: No Check Engine Light Any other 6 cylinder subaru owners with similar problems? 2002 Subaru Outback H6 3.0 VDC Sedan - Engine: EZ30D If you can give me some help in narrowing down the issue I would appreciate it greatly. Thank you! -
I'm considering buying a 2003 Outback LL Bean H6 (120k, they're asking $5300, in pretty good shape). However, the seats (especially the driver's side) are--I don't know--dirty? the beginning of cracks? I'm new to leather seats so I don't really know how they wear or age. I'm not sure what these light-colored streaks are. Does that mean the whole thing is dirty and they're just creased/not dirty areas? Or are the light areas where the color has worn off from rubbing? (the leather is painted, right?). In person they don't look/feel like they're ready to split/crack. Either way, is there anything I can do about it to improve the looks or should I just live with them? The rear seats I'm not so worred about as I don't look at them every day. I've done some reading on general cleaning & taking care of leather seats for these Outbacks, but I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing (if it's possible) for whatever it is that is going on. Thank you! [The image sizes aren't that great, hopefully you can see what I'm talking about.]
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I was wondering if I can swap the interior from a 1998 Legacy Brighton into a 1998 Legacy Outback? The Brighton is a parts car and I want to swap the seats and maybe other interior pieces because the interior in the Outback is 1) Leather, 2) Ripped. Either way, I cannot stand leather and want to do the swaps. Will the brackets and seats fit right in? Thanks in advance! -
Hello all, I have a 2005 Outback wagon, base model, 60,000 miles, standard transmission. My wife uses it to commute to work. We are the second owners, bought it with 11,000 miles on it. About three years ago, I started getting loud whining from the rear end, which increased with speed. Sounded like bad wheel bearings. Took it to Midas, it was bad wheel bearings and they replaced both sides for $500 or so. About 9 monts later, the noise stared again. Took it back to Midas, they cheerfully replaced both sides under warranty. Couldn't explain why they can gone bad so quickly. About 9 - 12 months later, same thing. Took it back to Midas, I think they only had to replace one side. They used a different aftermarket bearing which they said they had better experience with. No charge. Nice guys. Apologized for the inconvenience. Now, we have another bad wheel bearing. I'm starting to wonder why this keeps on happening and if there isn't something that these guys are getting wrong. I was speaking last week someone who used to run a Subaru parts counter; he said there are seals they might not be replacing properly........? Does anyone have any thoughts as to why these rear wheel bearings keep going bad? Is there something Midas needs to knoiw? Is there a bad aftermarket brand that should be avoided? Should I insist on OEM parts this time around? My patience is wearing thin. As much as I like the guys at Midas, I'd like to see them a little less frequently. Thanks in advance for any help. Jeff in Boston 05 Outback 99 Audi A4 Avant 72 Citroen SM -
I have been doing some research today trying to figure some issues with the wife's car. She has a 2004 Outback and the sub-fan is not operating. From what I can tell, it would be a matter of three possibilities. One, the easiest, a blown fuse. Two, a bad relay. Three, a bad fan. I have been trying to find pictures, directions, etc. on which relay this could possibly be. I don't have the car in front of me at the moment, but from what I understand, there are four relays in this enclosure, but no one is sure which relay could be the culprit. Is there someone that could share a photo of which relay it could possibly be instead of checking each one? I appreciate any help on this that I could get in steering me in the right direction. -
Hi. I am going alone on a backpacker journey to Australia in next month where I intend to buy a car. My first car! Obviously it has to be a Subaru - but which one, an Outback or a Forester? I will stay in Australia for five months and I suppose I will drive more than 10.000 km, so ofcourse the fuelconsumption has to be reasonable and the comfort has to be good as well. Since I will be sleeping in the back of the car somedays, it also has to fit to a mattress and some luggage etc. It also has to be great offroading, since I will be going to Fraser Island and other remote areas. I have been keeping an eye on the Outback and the Forester, and the price varies from 2000,- to 3500,- AUD. So wich one gives the most bang for the buck and suits my needs best? And are there something in particular that I shall be aware of when buying a used Subaru? // kgoul, Denmark -
Someone in my area has a free factory deck from a 98 Outback. As far as size and wiring harness, is it a plug-in match to my 92 Loyale? -
So I know you can put the outback strut and spring assembly on a legacy L. What I was wondering is what happens you go from the r14 tires to the r15 will my speedometer not read out right and if it doesn't read out right what can I do to fix it? -
Unfortunately I have a knocking rod in my engine and need to get a new replacement engine. Don't know much about Subaru engines, but trying to find an engine to order online. Wondering if anyone could help me understand what I exactly need to get! It would be more than appreciated. My engine right now is the 2005 2.5L AT EJ25 SOHC and I believe it is the California Emissions model. What year engines will suffice and be able to fit? Also, do I have to worry about the California Emissions part when getting the new engine? Thanks! -
I'm looking to replace my busted drivers side fog light. every outback I have found in the salvage yard has the drivers side glass busted on the fog light. I'm looking at Ebay and also at other Subaru products and considering trying to put something newer in the hole. I'm wondering if anybody has the dimentions for 2000 and newer lamp with and without the bracket to see if it is a close enough fit to make it work. -
I think my stock headers finally saw their last winter this year. Rusty, exhaust leaks, and sounds like shuffling cards in front of a desk fan. Didnt help that the previous owner only used the car for occasional short trips, Ive heard this could cause the exhaust to rot from the inside out due to condensation and the such. Im currently looking at some UEL headers on ebay. Since im on a high school pre-college budget, im not looking at anything too fancy but I do want the UEL headers for better noise without a tacky obnoxious fart can. I was just wondering if anyone has done UEL headers on a second gen Legacy, and if so what did you use, how much did it cost, and did it require modifications or new cats/resonator pipe. I dont want a full, expensive exhaust system but I wouldnt be surprised if I need a new cat or two. ...or should i just buy some headers, take it to a shop and make it someone elses problem? (But oh, money money...) Also does anyone have a part number/source of the studs that hold the header to the block? Mine are beyond repair at this point.
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Since I got my 97 Legacy Outback in november, the coolant gauge has never gotten above roughly 1/3 of the way up. Now that Im finally getting some nicer, warmer whether im worried about an innacurate gauge. A few times now Ive looked under the hood and seen some coolant on top of the resivoir and splashed down the front of the timing belt cover. Could this be a simple overflow? Hose is tight to the resivoir. Is there any way I can tell if I have a faulty sonsor/gauge? Or is it normal for the gauge to read 1/3 all the time after warming up? I dont take very long trips, average runs for about an hour at a time but no road trips or anything. (Dont take it on the highway often due to a cam seal leak that drips/blows onto the headers and front cat, smokes a bit) just wondering if other owners have the same reading. On a side note, how are UEL headers in comparison to stock? Currently have a small exhaust manifold leak and considering replacing them with the cheap knockoff UEL headers that are pretty much the same pricewise as knockoff EL headers. Thanks for the advice!
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I pulled the crankshaft sprocket off of my 1999 Legacy (2.5L). It was a bear of a job and required a lot of prying. At one point I got careless and had my prybar applying pressure directly to the back of one of the tabs on the rear side of the sprocket---it snapped off. Here's a photo: I assume these tabs are used by the proximity sensor to tell the computer the crankshaft's position. Therefore I assume I must replace the part. But before I order it, I wanted to verify with the experts here. Can I get away with not replacing it? Thanks!
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I have my pickings off a 96' outback for parts and my body on my 1990 legacy LS wagon is a little rough in some spots and just curious if anyone has ever done this or could give me advice or anything will help. List of parts I want to swap off the outback : hood(with scoop) Grill front bumper rear bumper thanks -
I have my pickings off a 96' outback for parts and my body on my 1990 legacy LS wagon is a little rough in some spots and just curious if anyone has ever done this or could give me advice or anything will help. List of parts I want to swap off the outback : hood(with scoop) Grill front bumper rear bumper thanks
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Hey everyone! New to the forums but I thought I would start out with a great mystery for everyone that I still can't seem to figure out I have a 93 Legacy L, just a hair over 200K and just did an oil change and a battery pull roughly 30 miles before this incident. I'm driving about 4 miles, cold car, doing a little under 30mph. My AC is on but engine temp is low and no cel or anything. I slow to turn and clutch in to shift into second, when I suddenly lose power steering part way through the turn! I safely pull over and notice CEL, Battery, and maybe one other light (Oil?), I really can't remember because I shut it off so quickly. I stood there for 20 minutes just inspecting the engine trying to figure out what could possibly cause all those symptoms. Turned the AC off and it started up like nothing had happened and drove the 1/2 mile home. The idle was erratically low but it has been all week because of the battery negative pull. The car is also showing no data for the check engine either. Now I know my negative terminal clamp needs to be replaced, but if it fell off it would be totally dead and not partial. All fluids were normal, no power steering leaks, and the belts were perfectly fine (no burnt smell either indicating seized AC compressor). I've heard suggestions of an alternator, but the alternator is somewhat new and tests fine for voltage. I really have no other problems with this car besides a chattery clutch when cold So here's where it gets weird...This was my dad's car previously (Bought New), and he said it's done this once or twice randomly before with the exact same symptoms and no lasting effects or symptoms. Now he also owns an 08 Outback that he claims has done this once before too, which adds to my utter bafflement. Now take his claims with a grain of salt; I wasn't there and it they could have been different enough to just be another matter entirely, but still odd nonetheless. I've been over this a thousand times and I just can't make heads or tails...If anybody has any insight it would be greatly appreciated! Hopefully I didn't break any rules already by making such a huge wall of text, but thank you all for reading/submitting, and I look forward to posting some of my own responses around here in the future! -
I'm looking for some parts for a project Legacy L, but in the process I found something that may help my '99 Outback: http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/pts/4381248624.html It's from a 2000 Outback (I'm waiting to get the transmission code), but from what I have read here it should be compatible with my '99 OBW. Is his correct? Which other years are compatible? Now the other question, and a more subjective at that: would you guys buy this transmission? I'm assuming the "AWD not working" means the center differential is fried, so I can just use the one on mine. The stubby axles are not there, but apparently it's just a matter of popping the ones on my transmission in there. But a) this thing looks somewhat neglected (or is it normal for a transmission to look like this?) and most importantly, it looks like the transmission has been rebuilt before (the sticker is from Reliable Transmissions Ltd. in NY). What should I expect from a rebuilt transmission? Would you guys buy one? Thanks! -
I've got a 97 Legacy Outback that needs an alternator, and I just so happened to have an Extra 92 Legacy Alternator. The positive plug ins are different but everything else matches up so I'm going out on a limb and assuming the 92 Alternator will work for the 97. Is there a way to make these plugs compatible?
