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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/15/14 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I see value in GDs comments. He had the Loyale/GL platform at one time and he decided to move away from it for the reasons he states. His reasons are valid. But they are equally valid reasons to not buy and maintain any old machine. With a car that ceased production in 1994 the lack of specific parts may be a good reason to stay away. But, as to the value, the market is the market. It seems like many of these are coming in under $1,000 but ones that are not rotten and seem to have been well maintained are going for higher prices. Some people are sticking with this GL/Loyale and keeping them running. I liked driving the one I did. My sense from talking with the owner was that he was able to find parts when he needed them or make due with substitutes. There are many aspects of the simplicity of the GL/Loyale that appeals to me. I do need to admit that I fly a 1946 Piper J-3. Low power, slow, uncomfortable, etc. Sometimes tricky to find parts for and maintain. Sometimes when flying about 1000 ft AGL I fly along a freeway so the movement of my shadow can be compared to the speed of the traffic. I need a tailwind to move faster then the cars. So why maintain and fly this plane? In the past I have owned a 59 MGA, a 64 Porsche, a 65 Beetle and a 64 Corvair and a 73 Austin Mini. I rode a Yamaha XS650. All quirky rides. My daily drive today is a Toyota. There are members on the forum who like the GL/Loyale and are driving and maintaining them.
  2. 5 points
    Tone ring... that's what that's called? Yes, the screws came threw the spindle into the ring. There is no way to rebuild it. It's too beat up. I'll be pulling the assembly from another car. I'll do a complete brake job on this before it's done. The car is going to a lady I know who lives on Social security, and has trouble walking. This ride will give independence and make doctor appointment much easier. So ya, good brakes equals piece of mind. As for the previous owner, I can't say anything bad. He's a nice guy overall. Just a bit clueless. While marijuana is legal in Washington, it doesn't mean everybody should partake.
  3. 5 points
    Have a look at these, boys! Still available from Subaru in tan.
  4. 5 points
    Old lug nut, fender washer, and some grease is the easiest DIY way. Or pull the hub off and hammer it in with a socket supporting the hub on the threaded side. GD
  5. 5 points
    I talked to the guy that I see all the time at the local burger joint who has a Subaru. Right off the bat he gave me the name of a guy who works on Subarus (who was also recommended by a local garage that has a good reputation). I found this man (he has a junkyard/body shop) and he has 4 Subs (that I saw) in various stages of repair at the moment. It was raining on us and I was on my way home from the vet with my cat, so I didn't talk to him long, but he sounds like Montana Tom upthread. He had a beautiful silver OB in the repair bay he's asking 3500 for right now - so assuming he can keep Subs in stock, I should be good to go once I have the money saved up. My neighbors had bought a fixed up non-Subaru from this guy and it's been a jewel of a car - I have to borrow it sometimes when my#$^*% truck tears up. I had been peeking at this guy's place when I would drive by, but I didn't see any Subies on his lot. Thank you all for the push to go up to people and ask...who knew I'd find someone this close by and so easily? Of course I will carefully check over any car he has for sale...but I have faith in the 'hillbilly grapevine" especially when it comes to the guys at the burger joint...I've been talking to them off and on for the last year or so; they strike me as the kind of fellas that would look out for a woman in need of help and not lie to me about stuff. If they say he's good, I believe them.
  6. 5 points
    So the clutch, flywheel and clutch cable were replaced after 32 years of great service. Replaced with OEM parts. Exedy clutch kit (Amazon) LUK flywheel (RockAuto) Subaru OEM clutch cable (Lithia Subaru of Oregon) I've had a Weber carb on it for years and now the clutch & shifting feel like when I drove it off the dealer's lot all those years ago. A few other things to attend to but nothing that affects how it runs.
  7. 4 points
    Yes it sounds like you are well equipped to deal with these then. I am mostly cautioning prospective buyers of "cheap" older Subaru's that these are a poor choice for someone looking for a first car, or a daily driver, etc. They are NOT that. I know it sounds silly, but the EA82 chassis is not the one you want if you want simplicity and frustration free. You want the EA81 chassis for that. Look for a really nice 82 to 84 GL wagon, or hatch. The EA81 is a much easier engine to work on than the EA82 and to some extent has more support. No timing belts and much easier to work on. Still going to be hard to find parts but if you have the money anything can be found or made. I still maintain and drive a lifted EA81 hatchback. Contrary to what people think around here - I don't hate them. I just see the reality of the situation and that reality is these are not for most people anymore. They are for collectors, folks with lots of parts, time, and money to maintain them. I have customer that pay me to work on their EA chassis cars and the bills are OUTRAGEOUS. Because no other shops have the knowledge or know where to the get the parts anymore. Trust me - I couldn't afford to pay myself to work on these cars. GD
  8. 4 points
    The clutch friction material was completely off the steel disk attached to the hub. It looked like a bird nest in the bottom of the trans.
  9. 4 points
    Thank you to all who replied and for supplying the solution, this not-well-known info about the "virgin" switch. It was switched by one of the crew at the car wash as they fussed to wipe the muck from the dashboard. Now that I know about this feature, I feel like I've been admitted to a secret society... no longer a virgin, so to speak
  10. 4 points
    So after a lot of work, mailing in a set of torsion bars from my Brat, paying for the initial machine work and engineering design, and a 8 week turn around, I happy to announce that you can now order new torsion bars for your EA81 chassis from Swayaway here in California. They will run $325 a set and will offer you a spring rate that's 20-25% stiffer than stock without loosing any of the rotational limits the stock ones had. Actually, Swayaway claims their bars will out perform the OEM bar in every single matrix, and they're guaranteed not to sag or break. You can check out their web site at www.swayawaycom. They make very high end products. So what does this mean: Better handling, no more having to crank the torsion bars for heavier loads, no more broken torsion bars, better articulation, and a new parts option for our aging suspension. I will be receiving my set this week and will do a comprehensive comparison to place here and on FB. Once I do that and ensure fit and finish is good, Ill update this post with the PN. He made 3 sets, 1 for me, 2 for immediate purchase, and any orders after those will be made to order.
  11. 4 points
    rotate crank to open intake on cyl 1, take out spark plug, attach compressor hose, blow the plastic backwards out the the way it went in?
  12. 4 points
    I’m guest east coast guy. see you all weekend.
  13. 4 points
    Mick's web site is still active: http://www.indysworld.com/vehicles/past/1982-wagon-mtngrizz/mountaingrizzly.html Need to level up on your google-fu. GD
  14. 4 points
    Well, I couldn't find an old ratty wheel to cannibalize for my aftermarket wheel adapter, so I just used mine. Made a plastic bushing to center the pilot bit, and holesawed away. Then flattened out the little bend on one edge with a BFH, and drilled and tapped for the new wheel. Best thing about this method (other than being cheap) is the horn and turn signal cancel cam work just like factory! I had this same style wheel back in high school in a 72 Opel GT that I stuffed a 1963, 215 CI. aluminum Oldsmobile V8 into, and always loved the wheel.
  15. 4 points
    I replaced the fuel pump, inlet screen, and filter and that appears to have been what the problem was. Thanks very much, everybody. Happy Trails!
  16. 4 points
    yep cam and crank sprockets were different swapped them over and it fired right up.
  17. 4 points
    Here's my 86 1/2 3-door turbo, my baby for the past 21 years, currently 242k miles.
  18. 3 points
    I just wanted to follow up and say thank you again for the info! I got the 73mm crank bolt for the 2000 2.5 and wala the extra 6mm or so was perfect. I also got a 13mm "bottom tap" to clean up the threads in the back of the hole but it was not needed. My mechanic got it torqued down , he was really impressed. Everyone was thinking the engine was toast or we needed to try one of those threaded inserts. And 13mm is a non standard bolt size so "fastener" supply type places just laugh when I asked. Its nice to have an alternator and power steering again. Fingers crossed it keeps the car on the road a few more years.
  19. 3 points
    OEM EJ front struts mounts rarely fail. So if you find yourself stuck thinking you wouldn’t need to replace it but the bearing isn’t good - you’ve got an option. If it’s not rusted terribly and the bushing/mount material is good and only the bearing is an issue, you can regrease the bearings. Today I did one on a 190,000 mile Outback strut that’s sat outside for a while and the bearing was seized, then hard to turn, very lumpy and catching. Doing the following, it was perfectly usable by my standards when I was done. For practice and to get a feel for what you’ll be doing you can use a tiny pick or spludger device to pry the edge of the face seal up on the under side of the mount where the face seal meets the inner race. I’m not all that delicate with these, the OEM ones I’ve done the seal materials are highly pliable and resilient. Use a needle fitting for a grease gun and insert it very roughly about 30 degrees incline from the seal face and between the inner race and the face seal. It’ll take a few times to get it to actually go down into the bearings. It often “stops” right away and you can’t push it in. If it stops - Pull back. Slide down the race a little or pull it all the way and rotate and try again. Eventually the needle slides in a solid 1/2” and notably goes down into the bearing. Before you pump grease press down where the needle enters and “seal” that entrance up with a finger so less grease just comes back out of that area when you squeeze the grease gun Give it some grease and pull the fitting out. rotate the bearings a few/couple dozen times by hand. Wipe up any external grease. repeat those steps 2-7 times depending how much grease you put in. Smaller shots of grease multiple times would be ideal and best. dont overfill the bearing or pump quickly or the face seal can be push out If that happens just press the face seal back down by hand after a few times the bearing will feel much better. Every other bearing I’ve done (timing pulleys and others) feels indistinguishable from new after doing this - tight and smooth just like a new bearing , strut mounts seem to retain a little less smooth feeling but still feel much better, turn freely, feels greased, and good enough for me for a strut mount. Ive done this to timing pulleys?and they do just fine even after 50,000 miles of high rotational speeds and localized temps. And I’ve done it to older subarus with unavailable pulleys and unavailable bearings where the face seal cracks and gets more damaged than normal due to age/design - not ideal but options are limited - and still no problems 10’s of thousands of miles on probably 10-20 bearings like that. So it seems like this should be a reasonable option in some cases for EJ strut mounts
  20. 3 points
    always reboot axles. Replacements have tons of issues. - the companies are just building them cheaply and you’re paying the difference with your time, break downs, return hassles. You’re helping companies make money, not helping yourself by buying cheap axles.
  21. 3 points
    Decided to take my 85 Brat for a late evening cruise. I just installed the roll-bar lights and wanted to see how they would do at night. Stopped for a bit to enjoy the silence of an old farm road and snapped a picture.
  22. 3 points
    If I recall the specified head gasket for that MY is a 11044AA633 that is a Non-MLS gasket (bad choice) Normally aspirated MLS gasket for that MY is 11044AA642 Turbo charged engine MLS Gasket is 11044AA770 Many use the turbo gasket (770) instead of the 642 for normally aspirated (non turbo charged) engines.
  23. 3 points
    Got similar from US or other newspapers same era?
  24. 3 points
    I usually pay about $75 for used prop-shafts. Call around. Just get a new Duty-C and the gaskets - it's not expensive. You have a running/driving car - do you really suppose that you can replace it with another running/driving car that doesn't have unknown and possibly debilitating problems for $250? 230k really isn't that high if it's been maintained. One of my loaner cars has 320k and customers routinely comment on how they are surprised that everything works, how much power it has, and how tight the car is. It's a one-owner 1990 Legacy 5MT. I have people offering to buy it all the time. High mileage is usually an indication of excellent maintenance. I've seen plenty of low mileage cars that were mechanically thrashed. I would rather buy something with 300k and a huge stack of records than one with 150k and no maintenance. GD
  25. 3 points
    Hi Zett; Are you looking at the first generation outbacks (96-99) or second generation (00-04) The first generation 97-99 2.5 double cam motor can have serious HG issues, requiring instant attention / repair. The second generation is MUCH more forgiving about head gaskets. 2000 and up subi's will need their head gaskets changed at some point after 150,000 miles or so. However they just drip... oil and antifreeze ... directly on your catalytic so you'll smell it BUT, they are slow drips easily monitored and easy to keep topped up, literally for years if you don't mind the smell. It gives you time to save up for the job. Look around your area for a yard filled with Subaru's ,They will be Subaru people... stop in and ask where they have their work done. You may have to travel some but I'm sure there will be a Subaru specialty repair shop. After all W.V. has mountains and snow thats where Subi's Shine!