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Showing results for tags 'brat'.
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Hi, Im looking for a Brat. Im in northern California but will travel. preferably a first generation in running condition. jay 415 244 9005
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So I pulled my E-A71 to reseal it. Put the engine back in and it starts right up. I take it for a test drive it will only go half throttle then starts to bog down so I let off and stay below that point and it coughs then shuts off and will not start again. I have replaced the spark plugs/wires and coil but it still has no spark i have tested the distributor and pickup. I have tested all the wires in between and everything seems to be as it should but im at a loss as to why it just stopped and everything else seems to be working properly.
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Hey everyone, My name is Tim and I'm a long time USMB reader, first time posting. Back in August of 2016 I picked up this sweet little stock 1982 Brat GL that had lived its life primarily in the Southwest, so very little rust. With fresh tires, light maintenance and a new front axle I drove the Brat daily from my home in the mountains about 40 miles round trip in to the city for work and it was great. I love older cars and the Brat has a ton of character. Anyway, after five months of daily commuting we experienced a cold snap and the stock 144K-old head gaskets blew. Here's a photo just days before that happened. After sitting down and budgeting a rebuild of the stock motor and considering a carb upgrade (mine has that terrible large single bore carter) I took two days and researched the EJ swap here on USMB and weighed the pros and cons. I ended up sending Scott at SJR an email and ordering his transmission adapter plate and redrilled flywheel while I began hunting for a parts car. After two months and three botched deals I bought a 1995 Legacy with front end damage, but not enough to make contact with the motor. We managed to bend the radiator core support enough to get a fresh radiator in there and I drove it 70 miles home with no issues. The white Brat in the picture kind of fell in to my lap, so I just took a few parts I needed and sold it, which paid for the Legacy. I pulled the motor and wiring, then sent the wiring to Scott to be thinned down and labeled so I stand a chance of doing this correctly Big thanks to Scott for all of his help so far! While Scott was doing his thing with the wiring my buddy Alex helped me get the EJ22 from the Legacy freshened up for what I am hoping are many trouble-free miles. This week all of the the SJR swap parts arrived and I am just waiting on a fuel pump and clutch to begin the swap. In the future I would like to make it a bit more truck-like with better ground clearance, but one step at a time.
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I have a 1980 BRAT with the stock EA71 engine and 4spd trans with stock carb. For now I am looking at just swapping to a EA82 d/r 5 speed an rear diff someday im looking to swap to an EJ22 but I can't find information on if that will even work in my year I am only seeing EJ swaps in 2nd gen BRATs The main thing I am looking for currently is will a EA82 d/r 5 speed fit the engine or will I need adapter plates and different bell housings and what am i looking at for swapping in the rear EA82 diff or should I buy a newer BRAT if I want to change things -
I did some searching and couldn't find much. This problem really has me scratching my head. 1982 GL Brat 200K plus on the body When the Left turn signal is on, it blinks normally as it should, however the "Stop Lamp" light will blink on the dash in time with the signal light. When the Left turn signal is on, and the Brake is applied: The LR taillight alternates between turning on/off the Lamp and the Reverse light individually, and the time of the signal light on the dash is about half the speed. It completely forgets to flash the indicator light instead. Having both Brake applied and turn signal on, the "Stop Lamp" light on the dash shuts off. The right side is unaffected and has no problems with the signal under braking or not. I have checked fuses, checked bulbs, and even swapped out the entire LR taillight assembly from another Brat; same result with the slow alternation of Brake light and Reverse light. And just FYI the reverse lights work normally when in reverse. Anybody out there have a similar problem? I'm thinking I have a bad ground or a short somewhere... -
Any BRAT's for sale in the Bay Area?
Plagueboy_ posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I've been looking online for a decently preserved BRAT up for grabs, but all the ones I see near me are sadly in pieces or are already donor cars. If anybody in the Bay Area, preferable the East Bay, is selling their BRAT and it's in running order, (cosmetics don't bother me too much, as long as everything under the hood works.) I'll happily pay a fair price. -
I want to upgrade the brakes on my brumby to wrx brake for two reasons, to get the much better performing brakes, and to change to a more common stud pattern. I know in Australia we used to have the crossbred kit, but these aren't made anymore so i'm just wondering if globally there are any other kits or if someone has a simple solution. Thanks.
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So I have an old clapped out 1.6l and was wondering what would happen if it is even possible to slap a 1.8l crank into the 1.6l block mix matching parts as necessary to make it fit. would it even start, would it have more or less comp, would it be stroked?
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Sorry for bringing up another tyre question, I can see there has been numerous of them, but I cant find the answer.. I bought these from a pickup owner and I need to know if they fit wagon DLs as well. My wagon is stock with drums on the rear axel. They seem to fit, but the hub caps doesnt fit when the wheel is mounted. And the white plastic ring/spacer/something is really brittle and doesnt look trustworthy. What happens if/when they brake? Why wasnt these rims made in the same specs as my old plain steel rims (as in not needing a plastic spacer to fit the drum -lip)? Thanks for any advice
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HI All, Long time lurker here, just wanted to say hi and thanks already for everything I've learned on here. About a month ago, picked up my dream car...1979 Brat. 95k miles, not a spec of dust on her, but plenty of work to do. Oil leaks galore, some electrical gremlins...and eventually trying to get back the infamous California smog test. Anyhow, howdy to one and all... I'll be asking a lot of questions. -Keith
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My 1980 BRAT idles at 1400 this seems really high to me and I can not get it to go down (was at 2k when I started but now lowered when giving it full throttle it goes the chokes for a second and goes real hard) by messing with the adjustment screws on the carb and i cant find anywhere that says or shows how to tune a carb (this is my firs carbed car I do not know anything) I am also wondering what the air/fuel ratio should be for this car.
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So here i am 2 years later. i had found a 1978 brat for 1200$ 2 years ago but was out bid at the time. i never thought id come across another brat in the midwest. recently i stumbled on another 1978 brat for 1000$ but i got him down to 700$. this Brats history: this 1978 model brat was bought by the owner from a dealership in the late 70's. it enjoyed light country driving for 100,000 miles until the owner became to old to drive it. it was then parked in there lawn for two years where mother nature could bite at its steel panels. other than body rust and interior wear in tear the engine runs fine. when i looked at it with the owner we opened the hood and poured gasoline into the carb. it started right away after sitting for 2 years. i didnt a good look at the frame or the floor but im hoping its not a rusted beyond repair under it. half the exhaust has been eaten away well any way heres the pics. i only have one bucket seat for the rear. the driver window is gone need a new one. the rear fender arches are probably rusted beyond repair and will need new panels. so does anyone have any advise for this project? any passing words of wisdom.
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My Brat is a special one, but it was horribly neglected, abused, and badly repaired. I had been fixing it up when people where I lived turned out to be real lowlives who stole anything they could trade or sell for drugs, and caused an illegal eviction. I ended up homeless, living in a desolate area, and became broken down out there, with nothing close, almost a mile to walk just to get water, 6 miles to walk to get or do anything else, and what aggravates that is that I have Bursitis & Plantar Fascitis in both feet, two bad ankles and one bad knee, which means on hell of a lot of pain and difficulty. Through it all, I have been doing all I can, what little I can, to try to fix and save the Brat with very little luck. One person after another has tried to talk me into abandoning it, but I refuse to. With any luck, I may soon be able to get it started, and find myself in Lake Elsinore, CA. Are there any really gifted Subaru Mechanics or Subaru freaks in that area who could help me fix this Brat and give it the fix-up it so deserves? Thank you. -
Hi guys. I need some help. I've swapped and ej20g in to my Subaru pickup. I've had it running fine but recently its not started. It was running fine one day, the next day it didn't so I made a different earth for it and I started straight away. I then left it for another day. Not touched anything and it won't start. So I removed the new earth and it fired up again. Running brilliantly Left it another day and it won't start at all. It cranks but I have no spark. Has anyone got an answer for this. Ibe already swapped the crack sensor over. I'm hoping it's just a relay that was intermittently broken and now has completed given up. Any help with this is appreciated. Thanks -
I haven't taken it out to get a look at it/repair it yet, but just wanted to know if there's a suitable replacement/alternative in the event I need one. I've searched for them but don't seem to be able to find one. Am i not looking hard enough, or is there another model/vehicle's i can use? Hopefully I can get mine working and won't need one. Thanks! -
My How to Keep your Subaru Alive book says that the outer CV joint and Axle shaft are inseparable - but I know they're not as I have replaced one a few years ago. I couldn't find any advice on how to pull them apart so I thought I'd share how I did it. Not many photos sorry. It's kind of an afterthought. Feel free to add further advice - I might learn something about an easier way to do it next time. Also, I'm not a mechanic so my terminology might be a bit off. The CV joint is basically 3 parts: - The outer cup and axle stub which fits through wheels bearings and wheel rotor. - A star-shaped "gear" that attached to the axle-shaft (used wikipedia for this description) - A circular ball-bearing cage with fits into and pivots inside the cup. I'll work off the assumption that you know how to remove the inner CV Joint (technically a Double Oscillating Joint). The picture attached shows a split star-shaped gear (with the splines that fit around the axle shaft) and the clip that holds it in place. Note the groove on the left (inward) side of the "gear". Also note that the right (outer) side of gear opens slightly to a larger diameter. As you will see when fitting a new CV Joint; the clip is slid over the end of the axle-shaft until it slips into the groove on the axle-shaft (both ends of the axle-ahaft look the same). That slightly larger diameter mentioned above compresses the clip so that is slides inside the splines in the "gear" on the CV joint until it snaps into the groove shown on the left side of the picture. The bottom line here is that the clip which holds the CV joint on the axle-shaft is completely concealed! When the CV joint is attached to the shaft and the clip is in place, it can't be hammered off as easily as it goes on because the abrupt edges on groove inside the "gear" and on the axle-shaft are designed to hold the clip in place so the join doesn't fail! Hammering the joint off might damage the edges of the groove on the axle-shaft which might make the new CV Joint come loose? So here's how I removed it: With the boot removed and the CV joint at an angle and the circular ball-bearing cage exposed, I whacked it with a standard claw hammer until it broke. It's quite brittle and breaks fairly easily. Rotate the CV joint expose more of the ball bearing cage and repeat. Without much effort the ball-bearings will fall out and the cup can be removed. This leaves you with the star-shaped "gear" on the axle'shaft - held in place by the concealed clip described above. Not wanting to damage the axle-shaft by smashing it with a hammer I elected to use an angle-grinder to cut the star-shaped "gear" off - being careful not to cut right though and into the shaft! I finished off with a chisel just to be careful. I think last time I did it I just bashed it with a hammer until it broke though. Up to you if you want to try it. Installing the new CV joint is pretty easy. Pretty much descibed above. My new CV Joint came with a new clip but I didn't notice it was there until I'd installed it using the old one! Have a look what's in the CV joint box before it's too late!
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The attached photo is from How to Keep Your Subaru Alive. I installed my Gen1 Brat (no power steering) struts as per top picture. With the top of the shock in the rearward position. Based on the fact it's 4WD; and not a Sedan or Hatchback. Is this correct? And if it correct, has anyone experimented with fitting them the other way round. I have some ideas of what I think this would achieve but rather than describe them (because I could be wrong) I thought I would see what other peoples thoughts are on this.
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Alright! I'm starting a thread on the resurection of my 1985 Subaru BRAT GL. A little backstory... I purchased this thing in 2012(?) from an old dude on Craigslist. I wasn't looking for a BRAT, but just stumbled upon it while looking to get a car. I always loved BRAT's but sort of forgot about them over the years. When I saw it, I HAD to have it. So off I went to Welches, OR to pick it up. One issue... I never drove a stick! Ha! So I jumped into the fire and had to learn on the drive home. On the drive the BRAT started losing power and surging and dying. I pulled over and looked under the car to see the catalytic converter glowing BRIGHT red. Uh oh. I called the previous owner and he kindly had it towed to a shop and had his mechanic check it out. He figured the cat was deffective/clogged and installed a new one. I just barely got the BRAT home. Same problem. So what did I do? Joined the USMB! -The day I got it home after a much needed wash- Since I feared the new cat was melted, I took a rod and punched out all of the comb. Still couldn't get it to run right. Rebuilt the Hitachi carb, cleaned and tuned as much as I could. No change. I was at my wits end. I thought I'd been had. Then I decided to reach out to GeneralDisorder (Rick at Superior Subie and Import (before he had the shop)). He generously let me tow the car to his house to see what was up. Without much effort he figured it out! Are you biting your fingernails yet??? It was the ignition control module in the disty! It wasn't screwed down! Halleluja! From there we went over many other things and he imparted a wealth of knowledge. I am eterrnally grateful! So without going into the entire history of this BRAT, here is the short: Ditched all emissions junk, replaced ill-fitting header with a stock one, did the Weber swap, new 185/75/13 tires, new fluids, wires, water pump, DEEP cleaning, yadayadayada. It ran GREAT for a couple years. Out of town trips, Seattle hills, off-road camping, snow, etc. A really creat Bi-Drive Recreational All-Terrain Transporter. So what happened? It developed a few serious oil leaks that went unnoticed. This was my only car and I didn't have the time or space to address every issue it had. I heard some ticking and thought it was noisey lifters. Blew a headgasket, replaced it. ATF flush. New oil. Tick got worse. After a few hundered miles, KNOCK KNOCK! The damn thing siezed. And I was moving that week. Kill me. SO I towed the dead BRAT to my new apartment (with a garage!) and there it sat. For a year and a half. Life got in the way of wrenching, but now it's time to give this beast a new life! I will be updating this picture heavy thread regularly thoughout the build. I hope it helps people and I hope you help me! -Here is how it sits now. Sad, sad BRAT.-
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I'm a new owner of a silver 1991 Subaru 4x4 wagon EA82 so I had reason to go down to the scrapyard and pick up small things that needed attention. I wanted to let folks know about some parts available if they have become rare and expensive where you live. I was looking for Nissan Maxima alternators (they have a bunch) Honda springs and 4-runner shocks. (For full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated of have interest in the business of Upullandpay) Here's what I found: 1983 L Line complete car <--- I was 'eye-ballin' this one for the H/L pumpkin 1984 BRAT manual complete car I think it had two stock rims available 1988 Justy 1990 Legacy x3 1992 Loyale automatic sedan complete car (analogue dash) minus front grill and front corner blinkers / indicators 1992 Legacy 1993 Justy Ignore the rest of these as this is posted in the 80's section... but these are there too. 1993 Legacy x2 1994 Legacy 1995 Legacy x2 1996 Legacy x2 1997 Legacy x2 1999 Legacy 1999 Forester 2002 Forester 2005 Baja sport 2001 Outback x2 one was a LLBean model 2002 Outback 2003 Outback limited 2004 Outback Impreza: 1993, 1995 x2, 1999, 2002, and 2007 Costs: http://upullandpay.com/colorado-springs/part-prices/ -
I got into the vintage Subaru game about 14 years ago. The idea was to find a cheap 4WD car that could get me up to the ski slopes and maybe some light off-roading. One day I stumbled across the USMB and it was as if Pandora's box had opened and I dove head first into Subarudom. I came across McBrat's old "Subarus of the 80's" webpage and the moment my eyes locked onto the Fun Wheels BRAT go kart, I knew that one day I would own one, if I could ever find one. So I started searching. They would pop up every now and again; "BRAT Kart body for sale," "BRAT kart, no engine," "I have this neat fiberglass BRAT kart body, but it's been cut up into pieces, FOR SALE OBO." And so it went... Most of those karts that did come up for sale were stupid expensive, or were on the East coast. And so with a heavy heart I pushed the BRAT kart dream to the back burner, where it would simmer for years. Fast forward to last week and I find not one, BUT TWO brat karts for sale, and one of them was in Washington state! The description said that it ran and drove, but needed some work. The only two photos in the auction showed what looked to be a pretty well preserved barn find of a kart! After a brief email exchange with the seller, it was clear that this was going to be my kart. A few days later the auction was over and I was the proud new owner of the kart. When I took delivery of the kart the seller informed me that he had been contacted by a local scrap dealer. She told the seller about a running BRAT that she had for sale and he agreed to buy it from her, thinking it was a full-size BRAT and not a kart. After I took possession of the kart and had a chance to look it over I was impressed with how well cared for the kart looked. Some spider cracks in the gel coat, a few small cracks in the fiberglass body. Somebody used the original seat as a step and broke it, but I still have the shell. The kart is powered by a Briggs & Stratton Model 90702 3 hp engine that doesn't appear to be original (build date is 02/23/1987). The only thing I can tell that was missing were a few of the body-mounting bolts. I cleaned and lubed the drive chain, rewound the starting rope, replaced the body hardware and lubed up all the bearings and cables. Despite having horribly cracked tires and a piece of wood for a temporary seat, this thing is a blast! Easily my finest Subaru purchase to date! More to come as I get to know this kart better! Photos once I figure out why I can't copy/paste anymore...
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Brakes on my 82 brat are not releasing pressure after breaking. Calipers will release when I turn the bleeder screw and about a tablespoon of fluid spits out under pressure. Rubber hoses have been replaced and the caliper and piston inspected and cleaned. I'm starting to think it might be something in the hilholder/fluid diverted mechanism? The cable on the hilholder was removed long ago and adjusting by hand the hilholder lever under the master cylinder doesn't seem to do anything to help. Anyone else ever had this problem or have a suggestion? Thanks
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Hello I just purchased an 85 Brat that needs a windshield. Does anyone know if the windshield is the same as the GL wagon? THanks
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Was looking for skidplate designs to "borrow" and found these, and hadn't seen anyone mention them. http://get-primitive.com/wheels-rally-race-street/466-team-dyn-15x7-5x100-matte-blk.html Expensive, but easier than drilling or finding pugs. Note: I'm not affiliated with them in any way.
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I am driving 5 hours to pick up a 78 Brat tomorrow. All I know is that is constantly blows fuses, which cuts power to the car. The person who owns it says he removed/broke the hazard switch and it has been blowing fuses ever since. I'm renting a car, so If I can not get this car running, I will be stranded. Sounds like fun right? Anyone have an issue like this? Anyone know what's going on? Are there workarounds? Anyone willing to be on call when I work on this thing tomorrow? Anyone who helps me fix it, I will buy a six pack beers!! Thanks Everyone.
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SORRY WRONG THREAD
