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Showing results for tags 'brat'.
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I fell in love with a Subaru Brat a few years ago while at a stop light. Ever since then, I've been looking for one in decent shape. I found this "Brat lee" and now am now the proud owner. I don't have a ton of pics yet, but here I am getting ready for a test drive. Has the back seats and body in great shape. Interior needs some help so I'm hoping this forum will introduce me to some people in Portland,OR area who can help me down the right path.
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Howdy, I am looking to put bigger wheels/tires on my stock 85 Brat. I wanted to get some ideas on the best way to do this. I do not know if this would work, but ideally- Id like to throw some 5 bolt 15" wheels on it. Would this mod be fairly simple or should I just look for some 14" 4 Bolt wheels and go from there. I understand that I may have to cut into the fender and I am OK with that. Any input would be greatly appreciated. As always, thanks! -Andrew
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Trying to locate new plastic clips that hold the rear bumper extensions against the body. They're 20mm with a shoulder the bumper extension slips in too.
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Just picked up an 85 BRAT, mechanics good, Interior great, working on rusted areas. Biggest problem is the panels under the bumpers and tailgate. Any suggestions appreciated.
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Hey Guys I was just wondering who daily's a Subaru Brat , and if y'all have problems with the power, or lack of?
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What do I need to do for a 4 inch lift to the steering shaft, shifter, and 4wd selector? Can I just take off my current steering linkage cut it in half and weld in some pipe? I'm doing 4 lift blocks all the way around, and then 4 inch strut spacers as well, with the offset. (I figure that will correct the front struts because if you don't you wouldn't get the lift and your cv axles would be pointing to the sky? Currently have a rather sketchy 2 inch lift in and would like to fix that. For the shifter do I just need to make it longer? and the 4wd selector is the one that's confusing me the most. Thanks
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84 Brat Intermittently Grounding Out?
jmoss5723 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I did some searching, but I didn't come up with much and electrical issues are my biggest weakness. So if I'm asking dumb questions, please enlighten me with your ingenuity. The car: 1984 Brat with a replaced EA81. When the engine was replaced, some "extras" were removed and I definitely have some wires to nowhere. The issue: Recently, when I turn the key to start the car, 1 of 2 things happen. It either: 1. Starts right up. OR 2. The dash lights up, the battery gauge needle hits about 8-10V and the starter doesn't turn. If it starts and I drive it there are no issues. If I roll start it, jump it with the 50 amp setting on my batter charger, or jump it from another vehicle there are no issues running it and driving it. Once it is running the needle sits just above 12V and everything is great. I got my battery tested. It is supposedly fine. It seems that no matter what, if I drive the car then shut it off, it always starts back up if I try within a few minutes. The questions: Is my starting circuit grounding somewhere intermittently and killing my battery? I'm assuming an intermittent short to ground because sometimes the battery is fine and other times it gets drained very quickly. What should I look for? Edit: I'm not sure if it matters, but the car had been mostly sitting for a year while I worked on it off and on to finish the lift and do some rust repairs to pass inspection. I just started driving it again last week and that is when the issue started. Edited again for grammar. -
So the title pretty much says it all, can't get my brat's interior lighting to work besides the dome. Would very much like to have that, what are the main wires for that? Also, my heating doesn't work, but I don't have my ac compressor connected, don't know if that's the problem or not. Anything helps Thanks -
so I'm just trying to see if this is possible. what i'm thinking about doing to taking a 86 brat and pull the motor and trany. i've found a donor car that i would take the trany, drive line, rear diff, and cv axles out of so i would have stronger parts to hold up better. i figured i would have to get a drive line made to fit the right length. i want to put a ej20 or ej22 motor into it to give it some go. the donor car is a mid 90's legacy. i just want to try and find out what i need to do before i get to deep into this build and get stuck. anything will help out.
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Has anyone ever seen i beam suspension on a subaru, i've looked around but have not seen anything please post some sweet pics if you have them
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Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make a cold air intake for a swapped ej22 brat? i want a real cold air not just the short ram. thats what i have right know and it real sucks with the rapid changes in temp here in colorado. I lack power when its above 65 degrees. Don't know if thats related to a missing rear o2 sensor though or coming from engine bay temp. But i still would like to make a Cold Air system for the Brat. Any suggestions would be much appreciated (mainly where to put filter and material to use) -
Here is the poor Subaru I got just a couple weeks ago... Just the basic pics here - doesn't look too bad for a neglected relic, somewhat fossilized from decades of red dust sediment on the interior, which I had to use a heavy grout brush and even a screwdriver at times to remove. This is after having cleaned it up like three times. There was no point in showing it at its worst when I first got it, it would be nothing you guys have not seen before I'm sure. Funny thing that occured to me... every slightest nook, cranny, crack and screwhole in the interior had this dense red dust crust on and in it, but the dash, aside from being horribly sun-baked, has normal destruction and dust/dirt, but hardly a trace of that red stuff on it. How the hell does that happen ???
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Greetings to the group, I've been a 'lurker' for a long time and keep watching the threads about EJ22 updates. I have a 83 EA81 BRat, which I dearly love. It is not a daily driver, but when it is taken out, it is often for a long distance...two or three hundred miles each way. I am planning to do some minor rust removal and paint work; but I just ran across a local 95 Legacy 2.2 4WD manual transmission, with 209K miles, that has some well bent sheet metal. It is being sold as a parts car. It is all there, having just been towed to the owners home after the accident. I have only seen pictures at this point. They are asking $500 for the whole thing. I was not planning on this project, but the opportunity to get a whole donor, close to home, has arrived. As I understand, I will either need to use an adapter plate to retain my 4-spd D/R tranny, or forgo the D/R and use the non D/R 5-speed tranny from the donor chassis. Is this correct, or is there another tranny option I also understand I will need to do a lot of wiring modifications to accommodate the FI computer and different ingition system. The owner says the car does have some minor oil leaks, (with 200+ K on it I'm not surprised) but that it was running just fine prior to the accident. The major damage is to the right front suspension. If it was not for the broken strut and bend lower A-arm, it looks like it could have been driven home. Am I overlooking anything serious? Any major or minor "GOTCHA'S" I am going to look at the car this evening. Thanks for taking the time to read this. Rod J -
After going to the west coast subaru id really like to get together with other Old Gen Subaru lovers here in the NW. i see so many pages on facebook etc on the new gen (which are great and i love em) but i want to see all the Old gen rigs. Would anyone be want to join in on this? Im thinking after christmas time. If your interested Post on here or pm me. maybe if we find out where everyone is coming from finding a good place to all meet would be easier. Im in Salem, OR Where yall at? -
Was there ever a Canadian model Gen1 Subaru Brat? I've been looking for one for the past year but none at all have shown up. Just across the border in Washington and Oregon however there's always a couple listed on CL which has lead me to wonder if it was ever officially released up here. Does anybody here know? If it was, I'd wait a while longer as I'd like to have one with the gauges in KM and not miles. -
I have a '78 GF that I'm currently in the process of restoring from having an engine fire, and the wiring harness was so far gone I didn't think it was worth saving. Long story short, it's got a new wiring harness from a 1978 BRAT, and there are a couple of plugs that don't line up. There's one that I feel I could make work pretty easily in the BRAT harness that runs back to the brake lights of the car, but the one that is causing issue is (and forgive me for lack of the proper technical term) the long black plug-in that is 2 rows high and 15 or so across... With the BRAT harness for the dash, it leaves that end of the plug clear on the other, wrong side of the car where the other end (connected to the original harness that runs through the rest of the car) is sitting. I don't know of a way to get this to adapt offhand without cutting and splicing in some fashion all those wires (which I really don't see myself doing) and I was wondering if anyone had a harness (the one that goes through the dash, and into the engine bay) they would be able to sell me. Shipping isn't an issue...if you've got a harness I'll pay whatever shipping and then some for gratitude. I hope this explaination hasn't been TOO confusing to read...and any advice that may help me be able to still use the dash wiring harness from the brat would be more than appreciated. Thanks, Jim -
A few weeks ago I noticed a coolant leak, and tracked it down to an intake manifold gasket -- no problem, just pull the manifold and replace the gasket (or so I thought). I wound up busting a stuck bolt, and had to drill it out, unfortunately I managed to drill through a head mounting stud in the process -- I didn't notice this, however, until I tried to turn the engine over and wound up filling my cylinders with coolant. Now, I need to replace a stud, and probably the head as well -- I put a small divot in the bottom of the thru-hole while drilling through the stud, I assume that it is this combination of busted stud, plus divot, that led to coolant in the cylinder. Does anyone have any advice, or a head (left side, ea81) they can sell me? I'm in Albuquerque, NM
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For the EA81 engine, and 1983 Brat, does anyone know where the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is? There is a sensor near the thermostat housing (which is by where the upper radiator hose connects to the intake manifold I think, passenger side of engine bay) but this sensor is two-pronged which means that, according to all parts catalogs that I've looked at, it is the radiator fan switch, not the temp. sensor that connects with the dashboard temp. gauge. The temperature sensor is just one pronged (at least the aftermarkets that you can buy are one pronged). -
Just finished up some engine swapping and have an extra EA82 engine and a lot of engine parts. Including: - Short block 100$ OBO (NOT rebuilt. about 150k miles, cylinders are clean almost no ridge, was running, doesn't even need rebuild - just put back together) - Heads 25$ each OBO (needs valve job) - Long block 140$ OBO - Oil pump - Water pump - All pulleys - Valve covers - Some timing belt covers and the tensioners - Flywheel - Oil pan -Engine mounts - Ask if you don't see the part you're looking for, I may have it NO -Alternator - Intake manifold - Carburetor - Transmission - Radiator - Power steering - AC - Distributor email chasewell@gmail.com I can give you pictures or more history or information about any of these parts. Suggest a price for the little stuff if you are interested, let me know if you want the engine for a different price and we will discuss (via email)
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My CV axle nut on my 85 brat constantly comes loose on the front driver side wheel and makes my brakes grind when I press on them. I have a cotter pin it, its the one that came with them when i purchased the axles. I have no clue whats causing it to come loose or how to fix it. It comes loose every few days. Anybody know why or how i can solve this problem? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118112-axle-nut-failure-point-reachedat-45mphhelp/?hl=%2Baxle+%2Bcoming+%2Bloose This thread seems to be close to same symptoms of what mines doing, except for the shearing and other fun stuff. i just need this to keep me going for a few more weeks until i can get my other brat running.
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Im looking to see if anyone has any awesome ways of repairing or re-sealing the gaskets on my t tops for my 86 brat. its seems they are leaking through the latch on the outer side. one on the locking latch as well in the middle. Id assume i could probably open them up and put sealant in there. but before i do that i am looking for the best ways to do it.
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Hi, of so ive been doing work on my 1982 subaru brat like cutting out rust and pulling the front end out since it has been in a front end collision . (carfax needed) lol. So after pulling the frame and paint and such i would like to build the suspension for baja style off roading. I was reading that body lifts limit the amount of down travel so i want to stay away from that. Soooooooo, im pretty sure many of you guys have pondered this idea and i think ive seen a white gl wagon with long travel shocks in the rear but not up front. I know this will be a very involved process and will take a lot of work and everything will have to be custom fabb'ed but still would be a cool idea or possibility. My buddy built his own suzuki samuri using toyota solid axels and was telling my that i could make custom long travel a arms and it would be , also that i could use coilovers up front but how to get more down travel up front? THe rear is east to get the down travel but the front is only like 3 or 4 inches than on jacks. I'm not really looking for a crazy lifted suspension (not body lift) or a down travel of like 12 inches but just more. Would this be remotely possible with the knowledge and custom fabrication or am i just plain crazy . Please post your opinions and yes i have searched this in the search bar but couldn't really find anything about the front other than people just saying there is nothing other than ranchero shocks available. Thanks guys! hopefully i can pull the frame straight then get it ready for rego . hasn't been registered in 8 years and doesnt have the pink slip. Yeah california! haha -
I'm thinking of doing a lift on my Brat (1983, so it's an EA81) and have three questions: 1. Is there anyone that makes a 3" lift kit for EA81? 2. How close can you get the tire to the wheel wells before they will hit once the suspension is compressed? (I measured 15" from hub center to the bottom of the fender. Without doing a lift, if I ran 28" tires, would they hit the wheel wells ever? Would I have to go smaller than 28" tires? In other words, would 1" between the tires and the fenders be enough distance to keep from hitting?) 3. I heard from AKghandi in a different topic that, "On an ea81 you have to drop the subframe when you lift it. Otherwise your cv axles will explode." What's this mean/is it valid?
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Hello everyone. I am looking to buy the air injection tubing (spider) for my 78' BRAT. When I took my motor out I discovered that one of the flares had broken off. I have a feeling it will be tough to re-flare the tube due to space for the compression fitting. Please let me know if you have one you are willing to part with or if you know anyone that has one. Thank you! -
So i guess this is my pre-build thread to see peoples ideas and any possable tips reguarding the restoration phase of the brat. my brat unfortunatley needs a lot of body work. however i found a very clean 85 GL hatch that i can take just about the whole front end off of. end product will hopefully have a wrx/sti driveline (or maybe something a bit more valuable, but that all depends on if i can find it). the GL will likely recieve the brat's current driveline which would be an upgrade from 2 wheel front to 2/4wheel dual range. the brat literally has all the rust spots you would expect froma neglected brat (though the frame looked good last i checked). any tips on body repair for the rear end (in the bed and the rear sill that almost doesnt exist anymore) and people that might be selling the bed chrome for a 2nd gen as mine is in questionable condition.
