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Showing results for tags 'Brat'.
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Hello! My ‘81 Brat GL 1800 has a vapor separator behind the passenger seat behind the bed panel. Mine is crumbling and is now fused together with epoxy. Hurray! I’m looking for a “new” one or I’m curious if there is part interchangeability with another car. It is listed as subaru part number “6420571001” or “642057100” Shown as Detail “O” in diagram. Thank you! My Brat thanks you. The environment thanks you!
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After about a year of searching for a good Brat for a project I stumbled upon a 1979 Brat on craigslist in Wyoming for $100, a deal too good to pass on. I convinced my uncle in law to make the three hour journey to go pick it up for me and drop it off at my grandpas property in Montana, which is where it currently sits until early May when I have a trip planned to go pick it up. The previous owner had intentions of rebuilding the EA71 and had the heads disassembled and a few other things torn down as well. A few weeks later I saw an ad for a 1983 Brat that was so rusty that the rear end was about to separate from the unibody. The car looks very deceiving but it has almost no drivers side floor, rocker panels and the back half of the bed had already been replaced with a patch panel. The Brat came with the rear jump seats, headrests, seat belts, and even the bags that cover the seat belts. The car came with a lot of other miscellaneous parts as the guy I bought it from has supposedly owned like 10 different Brats and this was the last one he had. My plan is to swap the EA81 with a Dual Carb set up I picked up into the '79 along with the 4 speed D/R for now until I can find a 5 speed D/R to swap into it.
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...before it happened. Or at least it should have. Hindsight is 20/20. The 3rd eye harness is very close to the battery. Rats were hungry and ate some of the insulation off of the red and black wires in the harness. Went to pull the battery to use in a different car; took off the negative terminal first, and then wrecklessly set it down in front of the battery, with the positive terminal still connected. Before I could undo the positive terminal I heard a "snick" similar to a fuse popping. The negative terminal had brushed those exposed wires... either the red, or black, or both. Now the highbeams work, as well as the "beam" icon on the dash. But once the 3rd eye button is pressed, neither it or the "center light" icon on the dash work. The 3rd eye was funtional before, door and light. McBrat, the one who built the straight-axle '82 Brat, had a diagram on "Indys World . com" but unfortunately that site is no longer up. What kind of tests can I do? Did I blow a relay or worse the 3rd eye?
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I have an 86 BRAT that has a leaky fuel tank. Now as many of you probably know you can't get new tanks for these. I've cleaned it up and repaired it about 90% of the way, I used some sheet metal and solder. However my solder joints leak in a couple places and refuse to seal. Does anyone know if something like red line tank sealant is safe to use? The insides of these tanks have a web of fuel pick up lines, which is why I haven't used a sealant even after all this time. For fear of it sealing those lines and ruining my tank. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance. -
My plan is to remove the windshield on my 1985 Brat, repair the rust around the edges, and then have the a new windshield replaced professionally. I have a new gasket! How do I remove the old one?
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I'm hoping someone can help me with an issue I am having. I have an 86 brat with the Hitachi Carburetor, I removed the Carburetor and cleaned it and installed a rebuild kit (mainly gasket) every since then when it first starts running it'll idle Really high (3-4000 rpms) then it gets to where it wont idle at all ! another thing it's doing (may or may not be related ) when giving it gas it acts like it's either not getting gas or has a hesitation in it until you rev it up about 25-3000 rpms then it'll open up and take fuel and run like it should. Any advice ? I'm planning on taking the carb back off and tiring it back down but, wanted to hear everyone opinions of what it could be (or what to look for). Thanks for helping !
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Hi all, I've been using this forum for the last month to try and figure out for to get my 1983 Brat GL running. I recently rebuilt the Ea81 it came with and swapped the hitachi carb for a Weber (new). There are some rust issues with the car but the engine is in great shape. I've got the engine back in the car and it'll fire up with starter fluid sprayed straight into the carb. Tuned the fuel mixture, set idle, timing, etc. Now the issue is, if I detach the fuel line going straight to the carb and run the fuel pump, fuel comes out of the line and flows nicely. However, when I attach the fuel line to the carb and run the pump, it's like there is no pressure at all. No fuel runs through the forward fuel/vapor filter. I hear the pump running but fuel doesn't fill the filter. Could it be an issue with the float? Or possibly the Weber filter underneath where you attach the fuel line? Or a pressure issue? Do these carbs need a return line? Would really appreciate everyone's ideas and replies in advance. I've worked with the carb on my motorcycle (dr650) but other than that I don't have too much experience with carbed Subarus. -
A video where I ask the question: Is this ok? Slop at rear axle, drum removed The bearing can slide in and out with very little pressure.
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Had a front end collision on my brat a while back and finally getting around to doing something with it. Couldn’t find a radiator support or a shop that would fix her up so using her for a parts car on my wagon and parting out what i don’t need/can use seems to be the best route. The interior is in surprisingly decent shape, most of the plastic hasn’t deteriorated yet. I’ll check this thread regularly or message me about parts and I’ll shoot prices back. In the central California area so keep in mind the shipping and time to remove some of her. Interior is already started but body parts and others might take some time to get
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The engines on my 84 gl 4wd wagon, and my ‘85 Brat look pretty much the same. Are the exhaust systems the same? -
I have an issue I can't seem to shake. My 85 BRAT vibrates when I drive over 45 mph like clockwork. The vibration sounds like a low, constant rumble. And I can feel it on my back. The vibration seems to ease a little when I let go of the accelerator (above 45 mph), but it does not go away. It then eases again when I make it past 70 mph, but doesn't go away entirely. I have brand new u-joints in the drive shaft (it clicked as I moved) and the vibration was there before and after I changed them. It also has brand new inner & outer tie rods, ball joints, front wheel bearings, front axles, shocks in the rear, front rotors, rear brake shoes. I had a tire alignment (needed to anyways after the tie rod change) and even though my tires have maybe 1,700 miles on them, I rotated the tires and balanced them anyways, but the vibration stayed the same. Other than the rear axles, which for the life of me I can't find at all, new, used refurbished or any at all. I can't figure out what could be the cause. I keep seeing almost everything pointing to either the tires or the axles, but with no new rear axles to be found and tires already rotated/balanced, I'm out of ideas. Any and all help is appreciated!
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My 85 Brat started and ran a month ago, then it sat for a month. I tried to start it, the engine would maybe 1/2 turn over with each try. Things I did Replace battery with a proven strong one. Clean battery terminals, and cable clamps, clean engine ground connection, clean positive cable connection at starter. I can swap parts with my healthy 1984 GL! What should my next step be?
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Once again, thank you for being here. Henceforth, I will be asking questions, perhaps putting my 2¢ in now and again, instead of pouring over tons of threads that may or may not suit my particular needs. A Wealth of gl wagon parts here btw.
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I have an 82 brat. Originally I was going to swap the carb to fuel injected. I've done it and drove it round the block a few times. But now it won't start. Pretty sure its trouble with the disty. I have decided to scrap that. I just picked up a 90 legacy with 160000 on it for 400 bucks. It runs and drives fine but overheats I need to change the water pump. My goal is to strip the legacy of parts to swap into my brat. My brat will soon have a 4 inch lift kit. I would like to use a 5spd Dr in this swap, but I keep getting conflicting thoughts on this. I can get the adapter plate no problem. Questions: 1. What will I need to do, other than the adapter plate, to make the 5SPD DR work in the brat with the ej22. 2. How can I use the powersteering from the EJ. 3. What do I need to do to retain the AC from the EJ. The brat is ready equipped for ac but it was not installed. I know these things have been gone over and over. I have the write up for the EJ swap from @numbchux but I need more info and I want to help get updated info out there When I have all the parts together and I begin this process. I will be doing a write up and also possibly make a YouTube series on this process from start to finish. So any help would be appreciated so we can get the info out to people who are interested in doing this . -
I have an 82 brat I am swapping to Fuel injection using @GeneralDisorder guide. The return line under the intake is 3/16 hose and try as I might I can't figure out how to adapt it to fuel injection hose as FI does not come that small. And the return line from Throttle body is like 5/16. Ideas? Also the throttle cable does not reach the throttle. What have you guys who have done these swaps done in order to fix these issues.
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I have an 82 brat I am swapping to Fuel injection using @GeneralDisorder guide. I have everything in place and wired up. My issues are as follows. I am only getting 6 volts at the coil. And I'm not getting any spark. My fuel pump works. But only shoots fuel when it is hard wired. It won't turn on in test mode. Nor when I crank it I don't think. The ecu blinks at me when my key is in on which is a good thing I think And the engine turns over. I have looked and read, then looked and read, then looked and read again through the guide and my harness and I really believe I have everything hooked up correctly. Minus the neutral switch and cel wire. Any any any help would be Uber appreciated!!!
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Alright, so after some research I'm about ready to start an engine rebuild of my ea81. I'm going to use this thread to keep track of my misadventures as I work through attempting to redo an engine that has little to no parts availability, so that you don't have to experience my pain. Videos of the rebuild will most likely end up on my youtube channel. First thing's first. The vehicle that is in need of a rebuild is none other than my rusted-out, ex-daily driver 1984 Subaru brat. I purchased this heap for 400 dollars when I was 14 years old. By purchased, I mean I worked 50 hours for a farmer during harvest at 8 dollars an hour and in exchange recieved the privilage of cleaning his pasture for him so I could liberate it. It was my first car and first project. I drug it out of said pasture here in the midwestern united states, checked the oil, fixed the mouse-eaten wiring to the fuel pump, aired up the 30 year old tires, and drove my new to me 92,000 mile car home and proceeded to park it for 2 years, occasionally starting it up. when I got my license I changed the oil and dailied it for about a year, just around my VERY VERY small town and occasionally going 30 miles to walmart for groceries. once I hit 93000 miles the engine started to make a knocking noise, and then it started not wanting to run. So I stopped making it. I figured id rather have bearings to replace than an entire engine. In the coming months, I realized just how poor parts availability for the ea81 is. but that's why I'm making this thread, right? Occasionally, rockauto has parts like the bearings available, but only occasionally, so I have been trying to find an alternative source thats a little more *ahem* reliable. I had heard that the ea81 shares the same main/rod bearings as the ea82 and er27. If anyone can confirm this I would greatly appreciate it. That's all I've got for now. I'll check back in once I start pulling the engine and know what all I need Ciao Subarute
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Starting my 1984 brat project. Gonna lift it and do a ton of other fun stuff to it. Some parts already on the way. Is there a better way to search parts than eBay? The eBay searches are dreadful. Is there a way to share picture here larger than a file size from 2002?
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The Y piece, catastrophic converter is available from RockAuto, and the muffler, surprisingly, available on eBay. The piece between them, I guess called the “Resonator “ costs $180 from Autozone! Is this my only option?;
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I just bought a 1985 Brat!! I am pretty sure the parts are the same as my ‘84 GL Wagon. I need to replace the windshield. It is the same as a GL, 1984, right? I am in St. louis, and the closest windshield I can find is in Chicago. Group mind, do you have any suggestions? mkoch
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I got into the vintage Subaru game about 14 years ago. The idea was to find a cheap 4WD car that could get me up to the ski slopes and maybe some light off-roading. One day I stumbled across the USMB and it was as if Pandora's box had opened and I dove head first into Subarudom. I came across McBrat's old "Subarus of the 80's" webpage and the moment my eyes locked onto the Fun Wheels BRAT go kart, I knew that one day I would own one, if I could ever find one. So I started searching. They would pop up every now and again; "BRAT Kart body for sale," "BRAT kart, no engine," "I have this neat fiberglass BRAT kart body, but it's been cut up into pieces, FOR SALE OBO." And so it went... Most of those karts that did come up for sale were stupid expensive, or were on the East coast. And so with a heavy heart I pushed the BRAT kart dream to the back burner, where it would simmer for years. Fast forward to last week and I find not one, BUT TWO brat karts for sale, and one of them was in Washington state! The description said that it ran and drove, but needed some work. The only two photos in the auction showed what looked to be a pretty well preserved barn find of a kart! After a brief email exchange with the seller, it was clear that this was going to be my kart. A few days later the auction was over and I was the proud new owner of the kart. When I took delivery of the kart the seller informed me that he had been contacted by a local scrap dealer. She told the seller about a running BRAT that she had for sale and he agreed to buy it from her, thinking it was a full-size BRAT and not a kart. After I took possession of the kart and had a chance to look it over I was impressed with how well cared for the kart looked. Some spider cracks in the gel coat, a few small cracks in the fiberglass body. Somebody used the original seat as a step and broke it, but I still have the shell. The kart is powered by a Briggs & Stratton Model 90702 3 hp engine that doesn't appear to be original (build date is 02/23/1987). The only thing I can tell that was missing were a few of the body-mounting bolts. I cleaned and lubed the drive chain, rewound the starting rope, replaced the body hardware and lubed up all the bearings and cables. Despite having horribly cracked tires and a piece of wood for a temporary seat, this thing is a blast! Easily my finest Subaru purchase to date! More to come as I get to know this kart better! Photos once I figure out why I can't copy/paste anymore...
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Here's the backstory: The carb I'm currently running on my EA81 in my Coupe I pulled off of an '81 brat in a junkyard along with the manifold. My unit says its a DCP 306-16/304, has manual choke and a vacuum secondary. The venturi sizes are 20/27. The only reference I can find to a carb like that is the Hitachi unit from Nissan A12 engines from the 70s. My setup has a small flat spot in the acceleration which has had me looking at how to remedy that. I am going to try raising the float level a smidge or maybe getting some slightly larger jets. I think this carb can run this engine properly it just needs tuned a bit more. It's pretty close as it is. The carb for the Nissan A14 engines is larger, I believe** its a 23/27, don't quote me on that. If I cannot get mine where I want it to be, I will get the A14 carb and see how it works. All the Nissan spec carbs have mechanical secondaries which is nice too, and manual chokes. The main point of this whole story is that I have found new A12 and A14 carbs (Hitachi design, just like the stock EA carbs) online for $40-$50. If these work satisfactorily this could be a cheap way to get a car running again and look stock, no worries of sloppy throttle shafts, and no expensive Weber swaps with stupid looking air filters. I will report back with more info and testing. Anyone tried this already?
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As the title suggest i am curious about getting more power from my 89 Subaru Brat. I've been thinking about an ej swap but I'm in love with the ea 81 and would like to refrain from engine swapping. Any ways to pump some power from this little thing?
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Hey Guys, I've been recommended to replace my ea81 distributor in my 1988 brumby to an electronic distributor (if I can find one) Symptoms: resistance while driving - jolting movement - intermittent miss. Has anybody else had this issue? Im looking for the exact part to replace but unsure where to find and what exactly to be looking for. can this play in the shaft cause the timing to be off? Thanks in advance. Drew -
Hi All, My 83 Brat GL has a new issue, it is overheating during normal drives around town. It is blasting hot coolant into the overflow bottle. The main fan is running all the time, so I'm guessing the water pump needs replacement? All the hoses and clamps are good. Any help really appreciated!
