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Showing results for tags 'legacy'.
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Hey all, just recently joined this forum. My name is Matt and i recently purchased a 2010 Legacy 2.5i Premium and i've slowly been molding it into a vehicle i'm proud to show off. With that said, my next priority is a new set of shoes and some coilovers to close that horrendous wheel well gap we have. I've been poking around online and my head is about to explode with all of the (mis)information and opinions regarding wheel/tire size for these cars. I'll make my question simple... I want to run 18" wheels, simple enough, but I can't seem to find a straight answer on what exactly will fit without major modification. If I go 18, what width and offset do I need to shoot for, and what tire dimensions would work best with said wheel (not interested in the stretched look)? And to answer the question if my suspension is or will be modified, yes, i'd like to go with coilovers and lower it an inch or two, so that should be taken into account. Suggestions welcome for brand/model as well. Thanks for any input you folks have! -
Hi, another 2000 subaru legacy/liberty problem. So far i have researched as much as i can about this problem but just want to firm up my understanding in this post. So the car has 145,000kms (90,000m) and has had full head gasket replacement along with timing belt ect ect. The new problem has occurred probably two years following this which started with the engine light flashing on during start up or whilst driving with limited power and significant lag between pushing the pedal. The light would then go off and the car would function normally. I have been meaning to take the car in for service when today the car would jolt into the gears and not change during the same rpm that it usually does. I am pretty freaked out by the whole thing and want to confirm a few things before rushing and replacing the transmission which seems to be the consensus on these forums. Initially i thought the O2 sensor could be the blame for the engine light and power lag problem if anyone could shed some light on this that would be great. So my first question would be do i pursue the Trans X method and try that along with flushing the fluid and replacing. The car has had the delay between reverse and drive issue but the delay was less than one second and has never really been a concern. Any advice is welcome, thank you in advance. -
1991 Subaru Legacy was sitting for 2-3 weeks and would not start. I got the battery jumped and it started and I was just going to drive straight to the shop, but when I got to the end of the road the car shut off and would not start again. Also prior to it sitting for 2-3 weeks it would start when I left from my residence, but if I drove it somewhere else and tried to start it again then it would not start. I have the following details: $1,500 worth of work done on it in 2015 including O2 sensor, ECM, fuel pump replacement, and new battery. The battery should still be under warranty. The car has an after market digital CD/cassette player, so I m not sure if that draws more energy than the car can handle. Also until recently one of the doors would not close completely and a little red light would be on constantly to indicate that the door was not closed. I m not sure if this light could have slowly been draining the battery/alternator or if this is even an issue. My question is based on the vehicle starting but not staying started, is this likely a problem with the alternator? Do I need a new one or could the current one be repaired? Cost estimate? I will have to get it towed to the shop because obviously it can t be driven in its current state, but I would just like to have an idea of what may be wrong and what would be the cheapest route since I have already spent so much money on the vehicle. -
I'd like to thank eveyone that helped me pick out a good replacement for my 2001 Legacy. This 2010 Outback will do my family well for years (hopefully) to come. She's pretty!
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Hi, My son has a 2000 Subaru Legacy. The fan stopped working on his heather. He replaced the fan with a new one, but it still didn't work. We returned that, just in case it was bad, and got a second one. It didn't work either. We also checked all the fuses and they seem to be fine. With a power meter we confirmed that when you turn the fan switch up, power is getting through the wires to the plug that goes in the fan. Still doesn't work, though. Any ideas? Let me know if you need more information. I can't figure out what to try next. Thanks. Steve -
I recently purchased a 2015 Subaru Legacy with 7,000 miles and driven by a sales manager at the dealership. I have driven the car about 2,800 miles (about 1/2 highway and 1/2 local) and am not getting anywhere near the stated mileage. My commute for work is about 2 miles each way and is not stop and go (I go about 25 to 45 miles per hour on a main road). Highway, I keep it between 65 and 72 mph. My city MPG is about 18 to 22 and my highway is between 25 and 28. Advertised mileage is 26 mpg city and 36 highway. I'm just not getting anywhere close to this. Has anyone else experienced these issues? I have the car currently into the dealership, but they don't seem too interested in looking for any problems since there is no check engine light on. -
Hey everyone, I posted about my 1995 Legacy L sedan a few weeks back, but here's a refresher. My 95 legacy was in an accident that damaged the front bumper. So I decided to turn it into my project/winter car. So after searching online awhile about how to lift it, I decided to slap some struts from a 1997 OB and got a set of 1" Subtle Solution spacers that attach to the upper strut mount. After doing the front, everything fit perfectly. And I was happy with the results. Only one minor thing, I have quite a bit of positive camber on my fronts. I tried adjusting the camber bolts to even it back out. But to no avail. I know I need to take it to a tire shop and have the alignment done professionally. It's lifted about 2.5-3" now, and I'm just humbly wondering if anyone has run into this, or knows how to fix it. Before taking to a shop. Thanks everyone for your time! -
So... My brother has a 98 Legacy, I believe its an EJ25. Bare with me, there is a lot of random symptoms/info here. Occasionally it overheats, so I looked at it. Its spitting out trouble codes P0480 and P0483, which are both fan related. Fans seem to work fine, while watching them. With my scanner, I watched the temp rise (the defrost was on), the fans (and ac compressor) would come on for about 30 sec then turn off. And the temp continued to rise. At 215F I turned off the defrost and the temp returned to 185F. What? Thermostat opened? Extra load eliminated? Weird thing is, when its running hot the coolant doesn't 'seem' to be flowing... Top radiator hose hot, low cold. I can open the radiator cap even when hot, which seems no pressure. I can put my finger in the coolant and its merely cool or lukewarm. Haven't drained to check thermostat, but he says it was replaced 'last time.' Radiator cep he hasn't replaced. So... (In order of my personal unprofessional opinion and economical preference)... Rad cap? Clogged radiator? Failed pump? Thermostat? Head gaskets... I have but didnt use a compression/head tester due to the apparent lack of coolant flow. But theres no bubbles in the coolant reservoir. I dont thinknot will tell me anything. All input appreciated. Thanks all. -
I have taken my crank shaft pulley off and know I need to get a new one. I am wondering if I am going to have to replace this other piece that the crank shaft fits onto though. I know I need a Woodruff key for it as well but will buying a new pulley and a woodruff key and putting it on fix my car. Or do I need to fix this other piece inside here?
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Hey guys, I just pulled the engine and did the head gaskets on my EJ251 legacy wagon. As I was about to install my new timing belt, I realized that I am entirely unable to get the left side cam sprocket timing marks to line up! The repair manual and multiple internet resources show that the mark should be going pretty much straight up towards a notch in the rear timing cover. My cover happens to be chipped, but I can see where the notch used to be. For some reason, the cam sprocket just won't stay where it *should* be, the tension whips the cam far to either side of it (YES, my crank timing mark is lined up properly, all pistons are recessed, I didn't just destroy my valves). These are the closest places to the timing mark that the cam will rest. Timing hash on cam is indicated with red line. Timing mark on timing cover is indicated with a yellow line. What is going on here?? I have read on multiple articles AND the manual that there should be no tension on cam when it is at proper point, this isn't some weird Audi that I should need special clamps for. Thanks for the help!
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Hello, I have a 97 Legacy Wagon that they harmonic balancer has become loose on. It will no longer keep the belts on for power steering and alternator. So therefore I can not drive it to work. I think the bolt is not just loose and assume it is a bigger issue. What could be the problem? And will buying a replacing just the pulley fix this issue? Thanks for the help.
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I have a 2014 Subaru legacy and I love it, but id like to get some more power out of it. I have a very limited knowledge of upgrading cars, but from what I've researched and been told I think the best way to achieve the 350-400hp I'm looking for (and staying under $4-8k) is keeping the current engine and rebuilding it with forged pistons, turboing the engine and swapping the transmission. I've also been told I might need a new intercooler as well, but I haven't gotten any professional advice yet. Does this sound like a terrible idea? And what do you think the cheapest/best way to get more power in my legacy would be? Would really appreciate any advice!
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anyone know what the two blank spots on the LHS of the steering wheel are for on a 99 legacy wagon? the blank spot closest to the steering wheel actually has a thing right there for something to plug into, while the blank spot closest the door is strait empty. i wanna know what is supposed to plug into that piece. thanks! -
I have a 91 Subaru Legacy and it will not stay started when I start it unless it has been sitting for awhile, for example overnight. But if for instance I drive to the store and then shut off the engine and go inside and then come back out and try to start it again, then it will not stay started when I try to leave unless I give it gas at startup and I also have to keep my foot on the gas for several minutes to keep it from shutting off. I just had the following work done on it among other things: engine control module replaced, o2 sensor replaced, fuel pump replaced, fuel filter replaced and entire fuel system cleaned, air intake system cleaned/repaired. This along with everything else that was done came to over $1,500, and the car was in the shop for well over a month. Needless to say I do not want to take it back to the shop or invest any more money in it at this point. However I am curious to know what else could be causing it to not stay started aside from the things that I have already had looked at/replaced. I realize that it is an older car, but up until a few months ago I wasn't having any issues at all with it. I initially took it to the shop only because sometimes it wouldn't start at all unless I started it with my foot on the gas, but that only happened sometimes (though it did begin to occur more and more frequently and had gotten pretty bad by the time I took it to the shop). Is there something else that I could possibly do myself to fix the issue that I am having without spending an insane amount of money? Also, is it hurting the car to keep driving it even though it is doing what it is doing? I only still drive it like that because I have no other transportation at the moment. I also know it isn't the battery because I just had the battery replaced earlier this year, and all of the lights and other functions (radio, e.t.c.) work just fine. Side note: Not sure if this is an issue either, but if I turn the engine off and just sit with the key turned in the ignition (in the position just before starting the engine), then I hear a humming sound coming from the car which usually only seems to stop if I completely remove the key from the ignition.
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Hi Starting this project thread to show my progress in making my Legacy -94/95 more suitable for the winter forest roads. This will be a long time project that starts with fixing the breaks. I hope I will be up and runing with this project later this week. /slugg -
So there is a recent ticking noise coming from under car whenever i let off of the gas. As soon as i give it the slightest amount of throttle, the noise stops, but right when i let off the gas the ticking noise returns. Especially when in lower gears. It may have something to do with going over small rocks and hitting under neath while driving in the hills, but i have no clue what the noise could be. I heard that it could be the heat shield, but i removed most of it earlier due to annoying rattle noise. Noise does not occur when just parked in neutral. Please help! Thanks, Austin -
Hey guys, So my new (to me) 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 4EAT on startup blinks the AT OIL TEMP error code 16 times. I'm 95% sure it's a problem with the Duty C Solonoid. I both lifted the car off the ground and went offroading (before I knew of the problem) and the rear wheels and drivetrain never turn, which also makes me believe this is a problem with the Dudy C Solonoid. However, before I start looking into replacing the Dudt C, I want to see if anything else could be causing this problem. Where is the wiring for the transmission or more specifically the Duty C solodnoid? I'm thinking it could just be broken somewhere. I've looked online and from page to page of my repair manual but i cant find anything about transmission wiring. Thanks guys, Matt -
How hard would it be to swap the hubs from a 91 legacy onto a 88 gl? Any input would be greatly appreciated. If this is or already had been discussed somewhere can someone please put a link in this thread.
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So it sounds like the noise is coming from under my car. So i hit google for a bit and i think it might be my center carrier bearing? It might have dried out? Can i grease it with wheel bearing grease? I'll make a video tomorrow. -
Hi everyone I had a Legacy engine fitted in my 1972 VW Bay Campervan 2 years ago by Andy Raw at TSR. A fantastic replacement that has transformed the performance and reliability of my camper - 2 European trips to France, over the Alps then down into Italy. I am awestruck by the power and reliability of the engine. I have fitted a Subaru heater blower in the front, but because the heater matrix is higher than the header/overflow tank, I can't vent the system - so there is no heat in the matrix. I have fitted a return bypass loop as I know that the engine relies on this. There is great heat racing round the pipes and the bypass loop, but no further. If I shut the bypass loop, the hot water stops flowing. I've tried adding a 12 volt pump to get the water through the matrix but with no luck so far. HAs anyone overcome this airlock before? -
Hey everyone, excited to be apart of this community. Looking forward to finding information to do my build, also to meet new people, being help and further along providing assistance to fellow members. Here's my wagon.
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I had a rock thrown through my rear window last week. For the first time in a long time the Internet let me down. Very little information on how to remove and replace the rear glass on any car- never mind a Subaru. So here is my accounting of my experience. It should be mentioned that the real reason I did this is because the cost of the glass and the install fee was pretty crazy expensive. Min $650 and then $260 on top of that to install it never mind taxes. It took me most of the day to hack out the replacement glass from a salvaged hatch back, clean up the broken glass from the receiving car and glue it into place. A lot of work to be sure but I saved $900+ so, worth it in my opinion. Here is the before picture: The tools that really helped were a oscillating saw and guitar strings. Saw in action ( Look very closely for the little teeth) I used a medium sized blade on the saw. A 3/4" blade for wood. I really took my time and did not force it at any point. First thing I did was to remove the "SUBARU" bar and lights from the donor hatch. It would get in the way of the removal of the glass. I put a piece of foam to protect the glass. At times I had to lightly strap the hatch to my work table to stop it from moving. I used the oscillating saw to cut a hole for the guitar string. You have to use them like a pull saw. A handle on either side. Pull, pull,pull. I started with the largest E string and worked my way through a set of old strings, breaking them as I went. I went through almost a full set but finished with the second smallest string I had started using wrenches as handles but it was too hard on my hands so I made some wooden handles and drilled a small hole for the guitar string. I had to keep a eye out to not hack up the gaskets on the window. That being said there was some damage done to the seals. Not enough to worry about but it would have been nice to pull the window cleanly. FINISHED! One of the surprises were these plastic plugs that had to be cut through with the wire The hardest part of this project was removing the glass intact from the donor hatch. It took a long time. You have to be careful of the defrost connectors and the seal on the donor glass. I took hours. Cleaning up the urethane caulking on the glass was fast and easy on the glass side with the oscillating saw!! Like 60 seconds!!! Not so much on the car side. I would strongly recommend safety glasses as the splinters shoot into your face as you cut away the glass impregnated glass with the oscillating saw. I also damaged the paint on my car with the saw. I was not too worried as it would be covered my the glass, but it still meant another trip to the hardware store. I could not find the perfect match of paint either. Again. Not worried as it would be covered. I masked the SUBARU bar and some lights with tape. Sprayed a couple of coats of paint on the bare areas while I tried to get my seized window wiper nuts removed. (Penetrating oil and a wire brush). I was lucky to have a glass shop 6 blocks away. They sold me this urethane caulking I think that you have you use the urethane caulking in one go. The glass shop recommended that you lay a bead the size of 3/8" or 5/16". I considered taping the glass into place as it dried but It was the end of the day and the glass seemed to fit snugly. The window wiper nut held everything in place as well. The "After" Picture. I don't think you could do this job without the guitar strings or other string-like cutter. You could use other cutting devices for the caulking removal and clean up - but I really liked the oscillating saw. (I got mine at Canadian tire on sale for like $30) A sharp chisel and utility knife would do in a pinch. Just remember to take your time and don't force things and it all should work out.
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I just bought a 97 Legacy 2.2L and started having the AT Oil Temp light flashing 16 times at start up. So first I did the transmission fluid flush myself. I tried to put in 10, 15, and 20 amp fuse in the FWD slot but nothing comes on even though that dash light flashes on startup so I know the light bulb in dash is fine. Today I reset the error code by removing fuse 14. After replacing the fuse and starting the car, the AT Oil light doesn't flash 16 times but once I restart without even driving the car, the flashing 16 times reoccurs. Please help me address these questions if possible and much appreciated: 1. Why doesn't the FWD light come on with fuse in? 2. Since the error code(TCU error 24 I pulled previously from handshake) comes back immediately after ECU/TCU reset without put the car in drive, does it mean it's an electrical issue? i.e. bad TCU, or could it still be the solenoid that's bad? 3. How do I check the connection from the solenoid to TCU? Thanks in advance. -
I have a 91 Legacy wagon which has been having startup issues on occasion. I usually manage to get it started by attempting to start it with my foot on the gas pedal, but when it starts it usually sputters for awhile and often turns off again. When I just turn the key in the ignition prior to starting it, I always hear a humming sound, and I wonder if that sound is related to or indicates the fuel pump may be going bad? Also whenever I drive the car it often has trouble accelerating especially after I've stopped at a stoplight. I just had the oil changed and had the fuel filter replaced and fuel system cleaned at the shop 3 days ago, and they also did diagnostics. But they didn't say anything about a faulty fuel pump, or maybe they didn't even consider it. Either way this all cost me over $300 already, so I just wonder if anyone has any ideas or suggestions before I spend any more money. Thank you all.
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I have a 2008 Subaru Legacy with about 57K miles on it. Recently, I've noticed a slight grinding sound whenever I accelerate, particularly when the car reaches certain speeds. The sound appears to be coming from under the car near the front. It is most noticeable when the car is around 25 to 30 mph but I can hear it slightly at some other speeds also. There is no sound when slowing down or braking... and this happens when going straight. Does this point to a problem with the transmission? I had the transmission oil changed (and front/rear differential fluids) about 4 years ago when the car had 34K on it. Should I get another transmission oil change or what else do you recommend? Thanks
