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Showing results for tags 'Loyale'.
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I am trying to solve coolant leaks on the passenger side head of a 93 Loyale. Before dismantling, I saw coolant on the top of the head from the intake gasket when I pressurized to cooling system - engine off. There was also coolant coming out (slowly) from the rear cylinder exhaust port. It had leaked into and around the exhaust pipe rusting the bolts. Now I have pulled the head looking for issues inside. The head gasket looks fine but the top row of head bolts are rusty. Probably from the intake leak on the top of the head. Anything else to look for? I hope the head isn't cracked. Could the intake leak cause all this? (I'll try to attach pictures or link to my gallery) This is a JDM engine. The EGR pipe routes to a cannister that isn't connected to anything on the other side (just plugged). Is that the best thing to do?
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I removed the passenger side head for another issue. I turned the crank so the flywheel was on the 3 marks and the passenger cam pulley had the timing mark pointing up at the timing cover mark. My question is what is going on with the driver's side cam pulley. It has 2 marks on it - one pointing up and the other down. See the picture. On both pulleys, a mark is on the 5th hole (the small one) and it is aligned with the spring pin that locates the pulley on the cam. But on the driver's side, this 5th hole is pointing down!!! The previous owner installed new belts. Did he line up the drivers side 180 deg off? Can the engine run that way? (It did run but not the greatest power. Didn't sound bad.) Are the two pulleys supposed to be marked differently but mine are not? Thanks for your help. (Trying to get the photo to show up)
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So I have an 88 GL wagon with 5spd and Hi/low. I have a chance to buy a 1991 or so Loyale 4wd auto car, which I want as a supply of donor parts. Would the hubs be the same? I'm pretty sure axles aren't, but that's ok. Has enough body and other parts on it that I'm thinking it's a buy. Just didn't know about hubs (yeah I changed one on mine and am suspicious I'll need another, not sure. Eric
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Hello everyone, first time posting so bear with me! Last winter I bought a 1990 Loyale 4WD Turbo with 55k in just about perfect condition. I'm the 2nd owner, been garaged its whole life. It did have some problems with overheating which led to me sinking a few grand into it to replace all engine gaskets, water pump, and radiator, but other than that it's run like a total dream and has been consistently maintained throughout its life. I'm curious to see about what money I might be able to get out of it if I sell. Between buying it and the repairs I spent around $5k total, and based on the research I did before buying it seems like an extremely reliable and desirable ride. Any help or input as far as helping figuring out a solid value would be much appreciated!
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Ok Guys, Greetings from Chile. First time Loyale owner, 1989 1.8 ea82, carbed 5 MT /DR. Lots of previous owners, rough life and history. Lets hope any of the Gurus here can lend me a hand. A week after i got it, and without any signs of overheating head gasket on passanger side went off, just sitting iddle on the driveway . From there on it was engine out and rebuild, I have done the following so far: -Full gaskets (Intake, Exhaust, heads, oilpan) -Resurface heads( usual cracks between the valves found, did nothing) -Polished piston cilinders (Cilinder N°3 had a broken ring and was scratched) -New rings -New timming belt kits -"New-ish" valves, couldnt find them brand new arround here ( a couple of the old ones had cracks in their heads, so they had to go) -Helicoil in sparkplug hole #1 and #4. -Helicoil and new studs on exhaust drivers side. -New filters all arround -New heating elements hoses. Oil and water pump havent been touched. Mechanich crash course it has been Took it to the emisison test, and it did not pass. Cilinder 1 was low on compression and running on 3 cilinders. TImming belt was off one tooth, fixed it...still wont pass...but almost. A little tinkering with the carb screws and presto, emission passed, now street legal. Took it on a highway and street test, all seemed fine, smoother than ever, little noise, Kinda torquey! and averaging 29 MPG Life seemed good! Yesterday on the ride home (some 40 miles up the mountains) Hot it went ( outside temp barely 60F)...halway up the road it felt kinda slugish, low on power, always kept it between 2.000 and 3.000 rpm range, and the needle kept creeping its way up, when it reached halfway mark i slowed down on the side of the road and it kep going up until the red zone...started praying and it went down Ha Ha, after that i let it sit, and then cheked all fluids, all was good.oil, coolant, everything... Kept driving her, and then again after a some 10 miles..Temp started going up again everytime a hill was on sight. Intake and exhaust hoses for the radiator, both hot and seem to be flowin ok. So here i am, with a freshly rebuilt ea82 that doesnt seem to wanna stay ...well...fresh nor cold.. Sooo...What could cause it to feel low on power, kinda draggy, and at the same time could cause overheating ? *It is Not, burning oil, drinking coolant, nor dripping in any excess way, there is a small oil leak from the oilpump pulley, and Hidraulic fluid leek from the steering as far as i can see. ** There is a kinda of rattling arround the 3.000 rpm mark, under load, like a tinggling, or bell-like sound.(maybe valve rattling) -
Hello Everyone, greetings from South America new to forum posting, long time voyeur. I recently picked up a 89 loyale 4wd ea82 carbed, 5mt dual range in regular body conditions but with a really smooth running engine, not so smooth tranny! My question is, What is the number of positions the 4wd lever should have (curved lever, not the "T" style lever found on brats), and what does its supossed to do on each? As of now i have figured out: 2H N ( should this be a 4 High?. No light at dash)) 4L ( this posittion turns on light at dash) Normal should be? 2h 4high 4low Little info: On purchase chek, i noticed a squirring sound when putting it on 4wd, (first step of lever y assume). Previous owner said it was only the rear diff being dry and that i would just have to pour some oil in it and it will stop making the sound, he offered me a deal, 200 usd of, if i took it like that, v/s regular price if he refilled it and it stopped the sound. Took the gamble, only to later find out that rear diff spins all the time (yikes!) Refilled it and it seemed to work fine! But still, cant find or seem to find how the heck to get it on 4wd High. Looked under the car when doing the oil change, when movin the 4wd lever it posittively made the rod on the transfer move in and out without issues.
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Hey folks, I have a 1990 loyale that is naturally aspirated and I am losing some coolant when I drive it. I found a couple different wet spots on the radiator fins and one underneath a bolt on top of the radiator that squirts when I drive it. The engine does not overheat, but there is a small amount of whispy white smoke coming from the wet spot on top of the radiator when I come to a stop. It started doing this a few days ago after a long trip out of town. The radiator fins are corroded and falling apart in some places. I'm young and not super mechanically adept yet, so I want to check and see if anybody has any advice before I get a new radiator. If you know any other factors that could be causing this let me know I would really appreciate it. Thanks guys -
hey ya'll I found a spot in Detroit, MI that can order new aftermarket fenders for the Loyale....gonna put them on my 88 GL and I'm curious as I can't find info on what this looks like.... I don't have holes for an air dam in the 88 correct? Looks like the Loyale fenders can come with holes for air dam or they can't. I'm just not sure if I have them or not. If anyone is curious this is the place I am ordering them from....no idea where they are getting them from. $75 a piece to much? http://www.mitchsautoparts.com/contactus.html -
Hello! I have a 1993 Loyale with just over 90 on the clock that has just started acting up on me. i have been combing the threads and tried about everything i could find and am still having issues! The main big problem is that it seems to be in some kind of "limp" mode. Absolutely minimal power when you press the accelerator down. i can get it up to about 25 mph and then no faster. Engine is not over heating as far as i can tell but when i run it and it gets to temp and the idle settles down the exhaust manifold seems to overheat. It is burning off old crud and smoking a little. Background: Water pump and cooling fan needed to be replaced. While replacing found that master cylinder and brakes needed some love so they were replaced as well. I got car back and drove for about 4 days before it started doing this limp mode thing out of nowhere. So i started researching on here. I pulled the MAF sensor and it seems to be in good repair and clean. I pulled the exhaust of the engine and checked it doing a vacuum test i found on here. (hook vaccuum up to tail pipe and see if it struggles with manifold disconnected) It passed that test. So i read the code off the ECM. EGR, which seems like an easy fix right? Wrong! Replaced the EGR solenoid and still have the same issue. Back to the drawing board. at this point for some reason the car's idle has started acting very weird. Surgin to 2500 and lowering to about stalling, on and off without rhyme or reason. I read that the Engine temperature sensor can affect idle and fix the speed issue, so i replaced it today. Idle is back to normal and check engine light is gone BUTTTTTTTTT car still has no engine power!! I am at a loss at this point and would appreciate ANY help!! Thanks in advance! -Devin
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Hi there, I've read a few threads already but I want to get some things straight because I'm not a mechanic. I have a 92' Loyale Wagon, SPFI, 5spd manual, 130k Original Km's (80k miles). Codes show 24 and 34. (http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/) 24 Air control valve or circuit 34 EGR solenoid or circuit The car starts every time, Idles a bit high on cold start (but only owned it since the beginning of winter so not sure how it idles normal in warmer temps), seems like it struggles at about 110+ km/h (70mph) but I understand it's not a fast car. No funny sounds coming from engine. Based on my web knowledge about vacuum leaks it doesn't seem to be a vacuum leak. So it must be these valves/solenoid? Reading a bit more stuff I found out the Air control Valve and EGR Valve can build up carbon deposits. My question is: If I replace just the Air Control Valve and the EGR solenoid will that clear the codes? For the Air Control Valve code - Will carbon build up in the throttle body or in ACV trigger the check engine code? For the EGR code - Will a dysfunctional/clogged EGR valve trigger the CEL or is it just the solenoid? I understand if I replace the valves and give it a little TLC, its probably good for the long run. But want to get your guys input and solutions for more confidence and less frustration when the doing job A lot of the threads tend to go into more technical stuff or are just very basic and old so I decided to start a new thread. Thanks for reading Randolph. -
Hi everyone - I'm new here. I have been having ongoing problems starting my 1992 Loyale and it has been diagnosed as needing to have replaced the idle air control valve and/or the throttle position sensor. The repair shop has notified me that they are having trouble finding the parts anywhere. Does anyone know where we might be able to locate them?
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Heater problems (Update) help 1992 loyale
Dawes posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hi i posted a while back about having heater issues in my 1992 loyale. So i put the oem thermostat in and in made quite the difference my cars temp barley got above the operating temp now it gets to almost halfway on the gauge. So the heater works a little bit better but its still not hot... now im looking for input on where to look next, maybe heater core? it gets warm (keep in mind its 4 degrees where i am.) but just not hot. thanks! -
These forums have illuminated for me the importance of using OEM CV boots. Though, I am having difficulty finding these boots (and necessary clips and grease) for purchase. I'm looking for specific recommendations, and other tips you all think would assist in this search. For example, some listings on eBay are for just boots without the necessary clips and grease. Thanks!
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Grrr...very frustrated. The wagon was running just fine. I was headed for the coast to do some camping and beach clean-up. I stopped for a cup of coffee, and *click*- nothing else. Jump-start did nothing. I cajoled a good citizen into helping me push-start it (LOVE me some stick-shift!), and i was on my way. I got back home on less gas than I expected to use, and lo-and-behold the starter has a lifetime warranty. Out with the old one, in with the new one, and...*click*. Sonofa----- Now what? I should have time to go at it again on Saturday, so what's the game plan? Again, it was running fine, and it starts right up if I roll it and pop a gear. -
Hello, so I bought a '92 loyale 6 weeks ago off craigslist, 240k mi on it. Its my first car and I'm really excited but a couple weeks ago the tail running lights went out and I got pulled over. I replaced the bulbs, still out. Brought it to a mechanic and after checking some stuff he is hesitant to start checking wires for shorts. He doesnt have a wiring diagram and cant find one online. I know little about cars and less about car wiring, so any help is very appreciated!! More info: -All fuses were checked by the mechanic and are good -Headlights work -Mechanic removed headlight switch and all four of those copper switch things move and get power -Mechanic also checked tail sockets for voltage, brake light side works but tail light side doesnt, he said. -Hazard lights work (besides front left) -Car battery is from 2014, has lower but okay voltage according to walmart battery test. One of the two O clamp things on the battery is cracked and I'm going to replace it. -Went to start car a couple mornings and battery was dead, but could start up immediately after jumper cables were connected -Dome light is out -Front left blinker is out -Dashlights just failed a couple days ago -Cigarette lighter doesn't convert power or heat up. This is important because I need to plug a converter in.
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Got a 91 Loyale that ran fine before I parked it late spring. The car had a mice population living in the hood so I have left the hood open all season, we have had lots of rain. I put a battery in it & when I tried starting it, the car started briefly than just died on me, I tried for about 45 min turning it over, pumping the pedal, letting it sit. A month later....yesterday I tried to fire it up again & it did the exact same thing. I am thinking condensation, also it sat on a angle all summer, with low fuel, possibly leaving the fuel pump exposed to air, or close, but maybe not the gas guage is below 0, I put in some fresh dirt bike gas mixed with oil maybe 5 L than another 5-8 L of regular gas, I just put another 6 L of pump gas. Would all the rain do some damage? I think it's a fuel issue, is there any way to bleed the system?
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I'm swapping the whole drivetrain out of my loyale and wanted to lift it while I'm there. It's my dally so I was thinking a 4" AA lift, might go with a 6" depending on how much harder they are that a 4". Never lifted a Subaru before but I know you have to extend the steering knuckle, radiator hoses, and brake lines but is that all with the 4"? Is there more to fabricate with a 6" or are they about the same? I also found a 84 GL yesterday for free and its got a d/r tranny so I wanted to make it a trail and hunting rig. Mostly swamp or snow around here so I'd like to make it water crossing ready, maybe side by side tracks, big o lift, welded diff, ext. Will it's little 1.6 and 4mt be able to handle that though? I know the 4speeds are considered crap but this thing will pretty much live in low range and crawl around. Also how high can I lift an ea81 with stock axles? What all do I have to extend and disconnect.
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So the 3at in my 92 loyale is slowly going up the creak, engine has some valve and leaks some oil but is mostly still good. Now all I have access to for parts cars are an 91 loyale and an 84 GL. The 91 loyale was drivable a few months ago but the tranny seemed sloppy, the 84 GL while not ideal has dual range so I'm tempted to put its 4speed in my loyale. I hear the 4speeds suck though so I'm wondering is it worth it for D/R or should I use the 91s 5speed? This car is already slow so I'm not worried about that, maybe an EJ swap in the future when my engine nukes. It's a daily/ATV and the trails around me are extremely crap due to the Florida like rain we got this year. This is why I'm really set on the D/R. Even if it's a harder swap and needs brackets built, not to much of a problem. So anyone have a rightup on this type of swap? Found lots about putting a 5speed in an ea81 but nothing about a 4speed d/r into a ea82.
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So I've got a 92 loyale with a rebuilt 1.8 and the stock 3AT tranny pb4wd. The engine seems fine other than some valve chatter I've been to lazy to fix but the 3at is getting sketchy. It's left me stranded a few times and it gets -60 here so no good. I'd love do drop in a 5 speed d/r but haven't found one yet and frost is on the ground so I'm down to what's at the landfill. I can pull whatever parts from a 90s? Legacy sedan, 91 loyale with a sloppy 5speed, or the only one that's in any remotely decent shape; a 84 GL with a 4speed or MAYBE a 5 speed not sure as I didn't get a chance to mess with it much. So is it feasible to swap out the 3at for a ea81 4 or 5 speed? So fare on here I haven't found a thread with much on the subject. I know the 4speed isn't as good as an ea82 5speed but the 5speed in the 91 loyale is very sloppy and goes into gear with out the clutch so I'm assuming it's toast. Should I just deal with the 3at till I can find a good 5speed d/r? Swap in the questionable 5speed from the 91? Try to use the ea81 tranny? I also plan to do a 4" lift and maybe a EJ engine swap if that matters.
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So i have a 1992 loyale, i replaced the head gaskets last winter. and im starting to get scared that im gonna have to tear it apart again. It leaks very slowly from the camshaft housing and valve cover, and has a tick when the motor is cold. My question is should i grow a pair, rip it apart and fix it or should i look at other options?
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This thread on lock cylinder interchangeability has gotten me thinking. I'm on the hunt for an EA82 (Specifically an '88 or '89 GL), and have not had luck finding the right one. I've been thinking about gathering parts so when I do get one, I can easily swap out parts and pieces without having to hunt for them or wait for shipping. Ultimately, I would like to add a killswitch (or three) and have the locks be rekeyed to help with security. Can I go the junkyard, take a set of locks off of any EA82 wagon, have them rekeyed at a locksmiths, and have everything swap over really easily? Is there a better way to do this? Is there anything else you do to help with security? Let me know your thoughts!
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Hi folks, It's been a while since I posted here, 'cause the wagon has been running fine, but a BAD THING happened today. I was toodling home through my neighborhood when, upon starting up from a stop at an intersection, I heard a CLUNK and lost motive power. the engine was running and revving, and the car was...just...rolling. I hit the 4WD button on the shifter (this is a 5-speed) and the rear drive engaged. I got back underway, nice and easy, for the mile or so home. Once home, I took a quick look underneath the front end to confirm that the new CV axles and joints were still in place, which they were. So, I suspect a problem with or in the transaxle. QUESTIONS: Does that sound about right? Am I overlooking anything? What's the diagnostic procedure, or did I just experience it? Is this a repair, or a replacement? How big of a PITA is the job? Considering this car has 245k miles on it and needs new front engine seals at the next timing belt change (i.e. soon), is it worth pursuing? TIA
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I keep reading about larger sized tires that fit on stock height Loyales without issue. However, I can't find any pictures! I frequently hear 185/70-14s work well, and I've read once or twice 195/70-14s fit too. Anyone have a picture or two they can put up? Any negative experiences? Thank you! -
I am very interested in extending the driving range of the car. As far as I can tell it's as bare bone stock as they could possible come. I've driven the car 2 full tanks of fuel now. It will swallow 11 gallons and push across the 250 miles (as measured by my odometer) lines pretty easily - but I haven't run it dry. Edmunds.com calls for a 15.9 Gallon tank, but all I've ever got int there was 11 gallons. 22.73 MPG by my math.. meh mileage 1991 Extended Range Loyale Wagon 4WD manual trans 13" wheels. 202,000 miles on the odo. I still intend to raise the car 2" and fit 15" rims for a 4" effective lift. but not today. I've run biodiesel in the past and worked through the drama of 2 tanks in a GMC truck. Being able to haul 60 gallons of fuel under the bed was nice. Can I do it with the Loyale? Large hoses? a 2nd auxiliary tank pump setup? Ebay calls out $160 to $260 for the standard 15.7Gallon tank with a 3 year warranty. Has anyone built a fuel cell where the spare tire goes under the hood? Before everyone tells me how dangerous it is recall the Volkswagen Beetle trikes fuel cell was also above the engine. Maybe install a welding with a few DC 12 volt batteries? - sorry I'm getting side tracked. Build one into the floor tool box in the rear? thoughts? failed attempts? -
I'm a new owner of a silver 1991 Subaru 4x4 wagon EA82 so I had reason to go down to the scrapyard and pick up small things that needed attention. I wanted to let folks know about some parts available if they have become rare and expensive where you live. I was looking for Nissan Maxima alternators (they have a bunch) Honda springs and 4-runner shocks. (For full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated of have interest in the business of Upullandpay) Here's what I found: 1983 L Line complete car <--- I was 'eye-ballin' this one for the H/L pumpkin 1984 BRAT manual complete car I think it had two stock rims available 1988 Justy 1990 Legacy x3 1992 Loyale automatic sedan complete car (analogue dash) minus front grill and front corner blinkers / indicators 1992 Legacy 1993 Justy Ignore the rest of these as this is posted in the 80's section... but these are there too. 1993 Legacy x2 1994 Legacy 1995 Legacy x2 1996 Legacy x2 1997 Legacy x2 1999 Legacy 1999 Forester 2002 Forester 2005 Baja sport 2001 Outback x2 one was a LLBean model 2002 Outback 2003 Outback limited 2004 Outback Impreza: 1993, 1995 x2, 1999, 2002, and 2007 Costs: http://upullandpay.com/colorado-springs/part-prices/
