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Showing results for tags 'legacy'.
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Hello everybody. I have a 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium with EyeSight. I love the car. However, there are some issues I'm having with the Bluetooth. I've taken it into Subaru and they said that they cannot always replicate the problem, of course. They also hinted to me that they know it is an issue but Subaru does not have a fix for it yet. I have an iPhone 5S on the latest firmware. Whenever I am making a phone call and talking to somebody, they after a few minutes stop me and say I can only hear every other word I am saying. So therefore I have to take it off Bluetooth, put the phone up to my ear, or put on a old ugly headset. It seems that this is only happening above 45 to 50 miles an hour. Below that seems okay. There is no additional road noise. I even turn off the air sometimes just to eliminate any possible issues. I have no issues hearing them, listening to music, or any other Bluetooth function other than not being able to reply to text messages via voice. This is just getting very frustrating and nobody seems to have an answer. Has anyone else had this issue? I have removed the car from iPhone and the phone for my car numerous times in hopes that it helped. Nothing has seem to help so far. Any help or confirmation that I'm not the only one out there would be greatly appreciated. P.S. I travel a lot for work on a weekly basis and rent cars every week. I have zero issues with any of the cars I rent so that help eliminate that it would be a phone issue. Just thought I'd throw that out there as well. Thanks again hope to hear from everyone soon. -
Hey everyone, I just bought my first subaru a few weeks ago. Its a 99 legacy sedan L sedan. So far I like the car, I think I lucked out getting a 99 since its the base model but I still have the sunroof/spoiler/alloy wheels combo. Its a 5 speed standard too which is fun since I spent the winter in an automatic jeep cherokee. I paid $800 for the car which has 155,000 miles on it. When I bought the car the man who owned it told me the check engine light was on for a front 02 sensor. When I had the codes checked it turned out it had codes for front 02 as well as a knock sensor. I replaced the knock sensor and it seems to be running more smoothly already. My main question and motivation for posting this thread is this: When I jacked the car up to change the oxygen sensor, the source of my exhaust leak became obvious. I have a fairly significant leak coming from where the header meets the manifold. It looks like the flange is pretty well rusted out. Is it possible that this leak before the 02 sensor could be causing the code? I was thinking of replacing the sensor to see if it would clear the light, but I feel like that might be a waste of time since the leak might be the reason for the code. I was thinking of ordering a replacement header, which runs about 140 bucks from advance auto in town, but they'd have to order it anyway so I'm looking around a bit for better prices. Should I replace the header & o2? or just one or the other? -
Hello, I own a 92 Legacy Wagon which I use as my daily driver (and Ham Radio mobile station). It has developed a problem that I have been unable to track down so I thought I'd give this forum a try. I appreciate any help offered.
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Hi guys! I am new to the site and found some really great info here! Now, I am asking for some advice. I found a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback for sale. I got him down to $600. Here's the breakdown: The car threw a rod and is not working. Body is in great shape with very minimal work to be done. The engine is a 2.5L and has 197K miles. Heres the original link: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/4915036530.html I'm wondering if $600 is a great deal to start a new project car. I was probably going to buy a new engine and swap it with the same 2.5L engine when I find one. Thanks for the help! -
How do I tighten the ebrake on my car? I have the thing in the car all the way tight, but there is almost 0 actual braking. I have rear disks by the way, dunno if that's standard or not -
1997 Legacy Wagon has been running strong and then, out of nowhere, the clutch pedal does something strange. First it loses return pressure and I struggle to get it in gear. Then after about three brief uses the pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance and the stick refuses to go into any gear. The pedal pressure is non existent now. When engine is off, I can easily put the stick in any gear. When I start it in first, it starts and leaps forward confirming that it is in gear. The cable connections all look solid and rust free. Is there a return spring somewhere. The pedal one looks fine. The PHV spring is there at the end of the cable but I know nothing about PHVs. Since the cable seems to be functioning (but not returning) could it be the clutch or clutch fork? Can a clutch just die instantaneously like this? My stick linkage is the loosest I've ever felt. Related? Any advise is welcome. Thanks for your time and knowledge. -
I figure if you can fit 205/75r15 tires on a lifted leggy you should be able to do 235/70r16, right? only a inch and a half inch larger width, so .75 inches on each side. Just wondering what you guys think
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Hi everyone, I am new to the subbie world and dont know a whole lot a bout them. Im stationed overseas in japan and have found a 2001 legacy b4 sedan with ~110K miles on it for $1500. I was planning on going out to the dealership this weekend and taking a look at the car but i wanted to know if anyone had any specifics for me that I should look out for? I work on cars and have a pretty good understanding of basic things i need to check allready but i know that sometimes these cars can be tricky and I dont want to buy a project car. Thank you for any help that you can give -
I have been looking on the web for a push/light bar for my 2008 Subaru Legacy, and have not found much. I would like to purchase a push/light bar that gives me the best bang for the buck. I don't want to spend too much on it, but I want it to be reliable. I am interested in the shape gorilla makes for the impreza, but am not interested in their legacy design. I guess what I'm looking for is something that has; -a decient size frame dimension -attaches to multiple points to the frame under the car in already existing holes -ends up right below the grill -durable -under 300 bucks if you have any ideas, please let me know...thanks
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As stated in the title, I have a 2005 Legacy that I cannot get to link up with my OBDII reader. This has been an issue for probably 6 months or more and no check engine light as of now. I am coming up on having to have emissions tests run on my car and I cannot get it to pass if I cannot get the tool to link. I have tried many online suggestions such as checking the cigarette lighter fuse, pulling the battery and letting the computer "reset", and checking all of the fuses inside the cabin and under the hood. Am I missing something here? The OBDII tool does get power so I guess the housing with the computer isn't completely dead. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. -
Introduction I got the best Subaru mechanic in the world, I met him on this website, I think, but maybe not. Shawn@RetroRoo.com has given me permissions to document my 98 Outback's transmission issues on the condition that I do it well. If I may add a little comedy because Subaru cars are a whole different ballgame compared to a V8 351C, or a 74' Nissan or 6 cyl. 56' International, or 69' Camaro SS 350, or a… Just a whole different ballgame. But I always, always wanted to own an Outback! Long story long two years ago (i know this because I just paid off the twenty five hundred loan) I bought a 98' Outback Legacy Limited because the body was great for the year but the price was more than I wanted to spend, and that would have been okay given I also knew the head gaskets were blown, and like an idiot, AFTER I DO MY RESEARCH AND A WARNING ABOUT A 'CERTIFIED' MECHANIC, I made my first, and last, major f-up. I paid the guy who I bought my Subaru from, who said he was a mechanic, an extra $700 to replace the blown head gaskets. Duh! So'eth my credit card suffers to this day when those heads shortly blew. With my tail between my legs Shawn met me with a head job of epic proportions, but with not much concern. What I discover is a mechanic who uses OEM and NEVER aftermarket engine parts and will not inflate those parts, too much… but will always charge the hourly book for the job and save me a lot of cash in the end. I do not live in in a place are where you can pull an engine and work on it in your garage. I no longer have the tools. I just need a great mechanic. Tomorrow we talk about Code p0740. -
It sounds like the fan for the vent and air conditioner is working at all four levels and the heater is definitely working. The problem is that I cannot feel any air coming through any of the central vents at any setting level. Is something disconnected? -
I am the computer person, but not so much the car person. Hubby will be helping me in that department. 1995 Subaru Legacy Wagon, I think 2.2L but not positive. 160,000 miles. This has all happened in the last 3-4 months I believe. Oil change at a Jiffy Lube or similar in December, antifreeze was low. Car was dead, took to shop and they replaced the alternator with a new alternator. Shortly after, CEL came on and started running rough. Shop said mice chewed on plug wires. Replaced plug wires and plugs. Not sure what brand on those. CEL still coming on, and blinking sometimes. Took back to shop, said 1 plug wire damaged again, just repaired the wire. 2 days ago, ran car cold (in 40 degree weather). On a steep hill shortly after start, lost power and stalled. Gas tank full. Restarted and got to bottom of hill before it died again. Waited a couple minutes, restarted and ran ok but still slightly rough for the next 2 days, plus I think a slight loss of power. Hubby replaced coil. Antifreeze was low again. But no antifreeze in the oil, he says. Just had the code checked, misfire in 3 & 4, which I think has been the code every time. Running basically the same after the coil replacement. I know it's an old car and to expect some of this stuff, but don't want to pour a lot more money into it if it's not going to help. Any suggestions for the next think to check? -
I have a 2014 Legacy, the winds were rough last night and on my way to work I ran over a tree branch and it bounced up and scratched the side of my car bad. What is the best thing to fix the scratches???? It's blue. -
I'm new to this board, but I'm on several other ones. I need to know the answers to this problem quickly, please help! I'm doing the head gaskets on my 1998 Legacy Outback EJ25 DOHC. I've rounded off several of the cam cap bolts on the passenger side head because the metal is very soft. 1. How can I remove these bolts without getting metal shavings in my head? 2. What can I do to prevent having the same problem on the other head? Thanks in advance. -
Just traded an 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee on a 2014 Legacy! So far I love the Legacy! Hoping it will be a great investment for many years to come.
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Hello Folks - I am looking for some step by step help with repairing a '97 EJ22 head gasket in car. What I know so far... 1. Drain oil and coolant 2. Remove spark plug/alternator/starter wires etc. 3. Remove intake manifold and attached hoses 4. Remove external belts/pulleys 5. Remove timing belt cover, belt, pulleys 6. Remove heads (Valve covers stay on) 7. Resurface heads, OEM/felpro gaskets only, specific torquing procedure I am concerned with the timing belt removal and re-installation (I understand the '97 is an interference engine). Are there other points of particular concern? I know a few of you on here are very familiar with these engines (grossgary, MilesFox, Gloyale, others I'm sure) and have said it's probably among the easiest subie head gaskets to do. I figure the learning has to start somewhere. Background on the car: Bought a '97 legacy wagon with a new head gasket at 123k miles. 12k miles later it overheated and stalled out (I wasn't driving), lots of oil in coolant, no combustion gasses detected, no coolant visible in oil. Car still ran, I was stranded, so had a shop take a look, top off coolant, drove 300 miles home. Temps were stable all the way, but it's idling a bit rough. Many thanks! -
Just recently bought a 2014 Subaru Legacy. Having a hard time finding decent seat covers online - some that will actually fit and look right. It has a black/tan interior. I thought about getting the Weather Tech Mats but does anyone know of any cheaper ones?
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I have an 06 Outback Wagon and the lights in the cernter console do not work. The radio and yellow light for defroster still come on. I checked the illuminator fuse and it was fine. I think the bulb behind the center console is blown, has anyone had experiance with this? Anyone know the name of the bulb that I need to replace? I know how to take off the console but from there I am not familiar, where is the bulb? Is there anything else it could be it it isnt bulb or fuse? Thanks for help.... -
I am a new member to this forum, but i have a problem that i need help with. I am a fairly knowledgeable shade tree mechanic but by no means am i a pro. when i got this car it had been sitting for over 6 months and had a dead corroded and nasty battery and cables. i didnt want to spend a lot to get it on the road so i cleaned the terminals put a new battery in and changed the oil. the battery terminal recently broke so i cut the cable to change the terminals. the positive was corroded almost 6 inches under the insulation. so i changed the cables that went to the alternator and engine ground. now the car wont stay lit. she will crank and then sputter out. i can keep her going with the gas pedal but she is slow to respond and then races. i dont think i did anything...... please help me with my baby -
I'd like to upgrade the exhaust. But all I can seem to find is set ups for GT wagons. Does anyone have any expierience with this? Will it work? ID also llike to upgrade the suspension. I've been looking at coilovers, I don't want to drop a whole ton on something like Tien's. Any suggestions? -
I purchased the car used about 6 months ago and had $2,500 worth of work done on it to get it through inspection. It seemed fine after that other than the shaking issue, but a few months later I also began to have acceleration issues. I had an oil change done in October at which time I also paid $50 for a diagnostic test and was told that I needed a new battery. But other than that I was not told that there is anything wrong with the car. I assume that the mechanic probably thought that my issues were linked to needing a new battery, and I honestly thought the same. However I basically continue to have the same issues even with a new battery. That being said, does anyone have any idea why the car may be shaking while idling, for instance while stopped at a traffic light, or why it may have trouble accelerating, and/or should I even bother to have it diagnosed again? Note that the car does have about 177,000 miles on it. If any more information is needed let me know. -
I have a 96 legacy with 262k on it currently. It started doing the 16 flash A/T transmission light. It ended up being code 24 (duty solenoid C / Valve transfer assy) I put in the FWD fuse and it didn't work at first (no FWD light). I decided to leave it in and see if its working at all. I noticed it might work for a day or half a day or 20 minutes and then the FWD light will go off again. (my thinking is FWD works when the solenoid is working with the fuse in)... I looked into prices and it would cost me around $2-400 to do the solenoid and clutch pack myself. or about the same price for a used transmisison here in phonenix. I don't want to do this job and then have it break again soon with such high miles. And frankly its hard to spend more money on a car that is worth around $2000 these days... So here are my questions... 1. What is the life span of a 96 subaru/nissan 4EAT? 2. Is it worth it to change the Duty Solenoid C / clutch pack on a tranny with 262k on it... WIll another solenoid or someting else likely go out in my transmission soon? 3. Could it be something being plugged up causing the FWD mode to work intermentately... to which a fluid drain and fill could possibly fix my woes? Your advice is appricaited! Any advice.... I've been thinking of selling it and getting a newer suby... I'm just so use to the 2.2 reliability and have been afraid of the head gasket issues of any 2.5 legacy/outback till 2010 which is out of the budget for now. -
We were gifted a 1990 Subaru Legacy for our family of 3. The previous owner said it overheated and leaked radiator fluid and didn't want to drive it. I checked it, replaced the $5 leaking radiator hose. Ta da! No overheating problem! Passes emissions. Drives smoothly. Passes Utah's safety check. Tires good. Ac/heat good. Fast forward some months... I now have a check engine light that came on. I followed the directions here with success: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm It runs codes 15, 24, and 35: 15:Fuel injector #2 inoperative (Abnormal signal emitted from monitor circuit) 24:Air control valve inoperative (Abnormal signal produced in monitor circuit) 35: Canister purge solenoid valve. Solenoid valve inoperative I have no idea what these mean, or if I need to worry about them. Anyone more experienced with this sort of diagnostic? Thanks so much! -Matt -
I am looking to buy a subaru and I've narrowed my choices down to 2000-10 Impreza WRX and 2005-09 Legacy GT Limited. What I'm wanting to know is what mods can I do to the LGT compared to the Impreza WRX and if there are such things as STi parts to put on the LGT and sources that I can use for research. Thanks in advance.
