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Showing results for tags 'EA81'.
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Anyone used a jeep (cj7) tcase to do the tcase mod? After monster brat fell through due to the rust, I'm hoping to salvage some of it. Everything that isn't frame or engine is bueno and I have 8" c channel from its bumpers (no rust) to use for the lift. Any disadvantage to doing it with the jeep tcase?
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How long does the fuel pump on an EA81, 1984 GL Wagon usually last? My ride has 164,000mi on it. How long do you gurus think I have left? thanks all!
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Anybody have any information on this ea81 intake? I've never seen an ea81 intake that looks like it before. Any info is appreciated.
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Ok so I am considering putting a five speed in my wagon but I have no knowledge whatsoever about transmissions so I have quite a few concerns. 1. Is it even possible to put a 5 speed in an EA81 with Dual Range? 2. Will I have to alter my clutch since it is a different trans? 3. THE BIG QUESTION! How much would it cost (assuming I put it in myself) If everything else pans out this could be the defining factor as i am on a strict budget. 4. Anything else that I should know assuming one can even install a 5 speed in an 84 Wagon Thanks all! -
The Hatch received a new clutch, machined flywheel, new front DS CV shaft and hub (THANKYOUSOMUUUCH Gloyale Rear drive train is a w.i.p. so currently running it without the rear shafts. Everything else back in after the drive shaft was straightened + refurbished with new u-joints, diff worked over. The engine was not removed to replace the clutch, the trans was pulled. It was rocked back and forth a bit, so the following symptoms.. bad engine mounts? It starts a bit more rough, and immediately with vibrations felt through the car, never before present. They reappear when engaging the clutch and moving the car forward from a stop and at very low speeds. Engine not is now a subtly lower tone, and while it's not drastically slower, I can tell it runs with a bit less power. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Bonus engine bay pic, glad to see my rear end paint job from New Year's holding up extremely well, but sorry no pics of that yet. http://postimg.org/image/9f8csxn17/ -
howdy all, am going to try and resurrect my 83 wagon which has been sitting since 2008. (i have spent time poring over previous pertinent threads seeing if this has already been adequately addressed, but did not find what i am looking for) when last running, "olive" had developed a problem in which she would fire up and idle just fine, but had no power and would not accelerate beyond a crawl. i am no mechanic, back in earlier days i learnt how to replace the clutch, axles, steering knuckles, but not much beyond that, my pal joe, who gave me olive, and i spent three hot days trying three different c-w carbs to see if we could affect a cure, but gave up, i left her parked and jumped on my bicycle and the bus for a few years until i found an 84 2wd sw ("silver car") locally for $800, which served me beyond the call of duty until she blew a head gasket on the james river parkway south of springfield, coming back from the eastern ozarks sunday evening. i managed to limp silver car adding water every 15 miles to get to the oklahoma border and within range of a free AAA tow back to tulsa (the gasket blew a hole between the water jacket and the exhaust, so no water in oil yet, but there is something knocking, perhaps a lifter, when started). anyhow, the next door neighbor came over having heard the tow truck come in and offered his services as a shade tree wrencher, since olive was sitting back in back with the mysterious ailment above mentioned, he thought it would be cheaper and easier to get her running again rather than trying to fix silver car which will need the engine pulled regardless. he spent the last two afternoons working on olive, he established that the fuel pump was working and fuel getting through the filters to the carb, and has dissasembled both c-w carbs and found the accelerator pump diaphragms on both to be rotted/perforated and thinks that may be the source of the no power/stall issue. am now waiting for surfside aauto parts to call about a new accelerator pump i ordered yesterday. meanwhile, the reading i have done on this board leaves me with the impression that the carter weber is a problematic unit, and i never did get very good gas mileage out of it, whereas the hitachi on silver car, even in the neglected state i allowed her to be in had delivered 28 mpg on the tank i used getting over to the ozarks. ok, so enough background ramble, the thesis question is, can i switch carbs from the 84 to the 83, and what all is involved? there is extensive documentation about fitting ea81 with SPFI, but i do not have interest or locally obtainable resources for that, but i do have both cars. i am thinking the dizzys may be paired to each carb, but are the manifolds and wiring different? as the carter seems to be a problem, and the hitachi seems to deliver better mpg and is much more widely available, i think the detailed discussion may be of use to others in the future. finally there is the chance that another part/function/system other that the fuel/carburetor may be the problem causing the idle fine but no get up and go that i last experienced when i parked olive six years ago. please help, this is not a leisurely project, being broke down right now is extremely destablising, i have had a challenging year of transition, and have only began to get on my feet, as recently as three weeks ago experienced being flat broke for the first time in years and really need to be able to get around to take care of some pressing tasks. i had planned to be spending this week running loads and assembling a multi ton uhaul load of vintage records to haul up to kansas. the title says it all in a nutshell, but i am also looking for insight about the c-w, i am so hoping just replacing the accelerator pump will fix the issue. thanks for any reply, and for being here to ask! -
I want to drop a fresh rebiuld into my Wagon befor winter kicks in. One way or another it will happen. But i was wondering if any of you guys have knowledge or experienced service from Enginehaus ?? Or Mark the guru?? A long block from enginehaus is 1695, and that is with shaved heads, bored cylynders, ect.. While Markthegurus long block is OEM spec and is 2000.. I want the motor to last as long as possible, of course a lot if that is up to me and maintainng it.. But my question is.. What would you do??
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http://imgur.com/7Slevtg what is this? And how do I fix the broken wire? -
Currently in the process of pulling my diff to weld it, and I removed the driveshaft and oil came pouring out. Didn't know if this is supposed to happen? Didn't happen on my impreza when I did the clutch
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What do I need to do for a 4 inch lift to the steering shaft, shifter, and 4wd selector? Can I just take off my current steering linkage cut it in half and weld in some pipe? I'm doing 4 lift blocks all the way around, and then 4 inch strut spacers as well, with the offset. (I figure that will correct the front struts because if you don't you wouldn't get the lift and your cv axles would be pointing to the sky? Currently have a rather sketchy 2 inch lift in and would like to fix that. For the shifter do I just need to make it longer? and the 4wd selector is the one that's confusing me the most. Thanks
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84 Brat Intermittently Grounding Out?
jmoss5723 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I did some searching, but I didn't come up with much and electrical issues are my biggest weakness. So if I'm asking dumb questions, please enlighten me with your ingenuity. The car: 1984 Brat with a replaced EA81. When the engine was replaced, some "extras" were removed and I definitely have some wires to nowhere. The issue: Recently, when I turn the key to start the car, 1 of 2 things happen. It either: 1. Starts right up. OR 2. The dash lights up, the battery gauge needle hits about 8-10V and the starter doesn't turn. If it starts and I drive it there are no issues. If I roll start it, jump it with the 50 amp setting on my batter charger, or jump it from another vehicle there are no issues running it and driving it. Once it is running the needle sits just above 12V and everything is great. I got my battery tested. It is supposedly fine. It seems that no matter what, if I drive the car then shut it off, it always starts back up if I try within a few minutes. The questions: Is my starting circuit grounding somewhere intermittently and killing my battery? I'm assuming an intermittent short to ground because sometimes the battery is fine and other times it gets drained very quickly. What should I look for? Edit: I'm not sure if it matters, but the car had been mostly sitting for a year while I worked on it off and on to finish the lift and do some rust repairs to pass inspection. I just started driving it again last week and that is when the issue started. Edited again for grammar. -
So after finishing up the weber swap and starting to crank it over, it cranked for a while and sounded good, giving it a few tries to get the fuel all through the system, then all the sudden no power anywhere. No lights, nothing. Battery is good. Good connections to the wires coming off the terminals. All the fuses inside the car are good. So I'm stumped a because I don't know much about all the electrical wiring.. What should I check along the wires or fuses?? Thank you for any help
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I was thinking about redrilling my hubs to 4x110. I have a couple extra pairs of atv wheels, some are 4x156 and some are 4x110. Do you guys think it'd be anything near safe to try and do? I don't know how I'd go about doing it, I'm assuming in between the original studs? I'm a cheapo, I know, but this is a trail only rig so there isn't a dot worry or a rims blowing up worry, and I want to be able to use atv tires, I mean imagine having some black mamba tires on a brat!
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looking to source a remanufactured ea81, just the short block. Or a good working one that could maybe use a rebuild. Anyone in Seattle area have leads? Also curious if anyone has delt with engineHaus in Gig Harbor?? Thanks for any help!
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August 9th, 2014 Rosland Park Edina, MN 4300 W 66th St, Edina, MN 55435 What: This meet is open to anyone in the group, feel free to bring friends and family along. This is being held in conjunction with Japanese Nostalgic Car and is open to anyone with a classic Japanese car or interest in classic Japanese cars. We are trying to grow the community here by intermingling between each other and meeting other people with classic Japanese cars, hard to believe that Legacys and SVXs are considered that. Officially a Japanese Nostalgic Car is any Japanese car made 25 years ago, for this purpose it is anything made prior to 1994, so feel free to come visit and show off your classic Japanese machine. Any car will be accepted but if the lot gets overfilled and you have a newer car you will be asked to make room for cars that qualify for collector plates in the state of MN (20 years or older). Location: The meet will be held at the back lot of Rosland park in Edina, Minnesota on Saturday, August, 9th. The meet will officially start at 11 am and end around 4 pm, there are grills for people to grill food, feel free to bring drinks and snacks. This is the same park as the Edina aquatic center, we are meeting in the back lot which is large enough to support 30 cars or so. There is also parking on the street near by and in the main lot, however I doubt it will get that busy. As this is a public park and will be open to the public please arrive on time or even early to guarantee a spot. Please set a good example of how car enthusiasts act, that being said... Now time for the rules: -THERE WILL BE ABSOLUTELY 100% NO TOLERANCE FOR HOONING, REVVING OR BURN OUTS. You will be removed from the event and the Minnesota EF Owners Club if you are a member, If you are on JNC or USMB I will ask the mods to block you. -Listen to the Admins of the show(the list will be growing soon). If we tell you not to do something don't make us tell you again. -No loud music, Edina is known as being nazis about this kind of thing, please set a good example of how car enthusiasts act. -Be respectful. Acting like a jack rump roast will get you kicked out in a hurry. I feel like I don't need to list off what disrespectful activity is but the short list is: parking like an idiot, being rude to others, leaving trash around, etc. -Have fun. This is an event to instigate comradery in our community and bring together people who wouldn't normally talk to each other. Please feel free the comment or PM me about this meet if you have questions. Below in a link to the Facebook event page https://www.facebook.com/events/797013693672574/?ref=notif¬if_t=plan_user_joined -
Spent Halloween working on my own Frankenstein super lifted T-cased Subaru project. 86 Isuzu Trooper diesel Front frame. Cut just behind the torsion mounts. Keeping the Isuzu A-arms, knuckles, hubs, brakes. Hooking up to Subaru 4.11 Diff using hybrid Isuzu and EA81 Axles. EJ steering rack with Isuzu tierods. Nissan 720 Transfercase Here's some teaser pics. Not sure it's really what I want to do......but it's a start.
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Went through high water tonight on way home from work. I bailed out of the street into a drive, was idling like a carp out of water, tried to feed it more fuel didn't seem to make it worse but not any better either. After a couple of minutes it died then couldn't get it started again. Thought it was just vapor locked cause it was backfiring through the Weber 32/36 and then through the exhaust sometimes not every time. So I let it sit for 15 minutes before trying again & same thing. I though maybe I'd be better letting it sit for longer like 45 minutes, still no luck coming back through the carb. I looked for vac hoses that may have come off and saw nothing out of place. Do I need to take the carb apart or let it sit over night and see what it does in the morning? Other thoughts?? Thanks for any input in advance. -
so I'm just trying to see if this is possible. what i'm thinking about doing to taking a 86 brat and pull the motor and trany. i've found a donor car that i would take the trany, drive line, rear diff, and cv axles out of so i would have stronger parts to hold up better. i figured i would have to get a drive line made to fit the right length. i want to put a ej20 or ej22 motor into it to give it some go. the donor car is a mid 90's legacy. i just want to try and find out what i need to do before i get to deep into this build and get stuck. anything will help out.
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This is a write-up on using the Rear Wiper Arm from a '09-14 Honda Fit. This is a direct bolt on upgrade! Parts Needed: Honda Fit Wiper Arm Part Number: 76720-TF0-003 Wiper Blade: Trico Exact Fit 16B Install Duration: 5 Minutes _____________________________________________________________________________________ First off a new genuine Wiper Arm assembly can be found on Ebay for $23 or less, usually free shipping! Most don't come with a Wiper blade as shown, but most parts houses will have the Trico Exact-Fit 16B which is no longer the J-hook style clip. Now once you have the Wiper Arm, remove your original one by removing the one 10mm nut behind the plastic cover, pull off the old Wiper arm (May need to jiggle as they tend to get stuck on the motor shaft) once off, remove the round plastic dust cover which covers the motor shaft and nut, this part will no longer be needed as the new Wiper arm covers that. You will then want to position the new Wiper arm so the Wiper blade will be Level with the Window Trim/Seal, once adjusted, apply the original 10mm nut and tighten down with mild force, the Shaft will press into the Beveled washer inside the new wiper arm and it will not slip under operation! Install the new Plastic nut cover provided with the Wiper arm and you're finished! The new wiper arm will press harder on the window for a cleaner, consistent wiping path. One of the best upgrades you can do for visibly. Enjoy, -Tom Note: This setup may also work on the EA81 Wagon and Hatchback. -
These bolts are no longer available from Subaru and I was wondering if anyone had any dimensions so I can order them through other channels. Thanks!
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Lowering springs with KYB gr2 for Ea81?
82GLWag posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My question here is can you use kyb struts for stock replacement but use a shorter spring to get even just an inch lower? if so is there a spring I can get or would it be alright to just cut the stock springs? This is a 82' 4WD GL. also what about the back? I know I can adjust the torsion bar but idk where its sitting at the moment and if it will get low enough to match the front. -
Hi, My gyroplane has an EA81 twin carb engine that was overheated to siezure and has now been rebuilt but it runs rough and does not develop the power it should. The rough running does not allow an idle below 1200 RPM as it causes the gearbox to chatter, previously it would idle down to 800 RPM. The engine seems to smooth out as the revs increase but the power is down as the new engine will not rev past 4800 RPM whereas previously it would go to 5400 RPM with the same pitch on the propeller. The engine was 700 hours old before this rebuild with compression significantly lower than has now been achieved. The work done Cylinder heads professionally machined and rebuilt, new valve seats, valves and valve springs Cylinder blocks decked, bored 0.5 oversize. New pistons and rings Pushrods checked for straightness Pistons, rods and crank rebalanced Camshaft checked, it is believed to have been mildly ground in the past but I did not measure it up when I had it out. Reconditioned carburettors with butterfly shafts bored and bushed, Hitachi carbs, float levels correctly set. New sparkplugs, distributor cap and points, points were set with dwell meter. New spark leads were not replaced as they were only 30 hours old. One lead measured high resistance and was replaced. All 5 leads were then exchanged with a set from another engine that is running well without improvement of symptoms. Alternator reconditioned. New oil pump Waterpump approximately 30 hours old. Battery is 30 hours/12months old and in good condition. Engine was rewired approximately 30 hours ago, some was heat damaged and repaired. Spark plugs,coil and points have been replaced yet again in sequence without improvement. Currently cylinder compression ranges from 175 psi to 195 psi. There is no water in the oil or other indication of head gasket issues. Ignition timing is set at 30° BTDC at 3500 RPM, this results in 4°BTDC at 1200 RPM (with vacuum line attached). Distributor has not been rebuilt but timing light gives a very solid and stable visibility of marks on the flywheel up to 4000 rpm, and was not tested any higher. Valve clearances have been checked and rechecked at 0.25mm inlet and 0.35 mm exhaust. I have sprayed carby cleaner liberally around all manifold and vacuum connections looking for a leak without success. I have balanced the carburettors with a vacuum meter. I have disconnected the carburettors one at a time and sealed the air intake forcing each carburettor to be the only carburettor in turn, no change in symptoms. Carburettor idle solenoids were disconnected in turn with a significant deterioration of the idle in both cases. I run the engine on 98 octane fuel with a valve seat protection additive. The engine does not overheat when running. Oil pressure is good. I cannot hear any pinging or knocking but engine is run without a muffler so these would only be heard at low rpm. Is it possible for symptoms to be caused by missaligning the camshaft by one tooth? Would the compression suffer if this error was made? I don't believe this is at all likely as I remember viewing the alignment mark through the large bevelled hole on the crank when reassembling but if somebody knows the symptoms of this error it would save some hair pulling on my part. Otherwise I am devoid of ideas having replaced or swapped out everything I can think of. Any suggestions out there? Cheers and thanks -
So, I've been working on my suspension alot latetly. Got the rear super dialed in. 11 inches of travel!!! WOOT WOOT!! But now I need to work on the front. First try: This worked well for the upper shock mount, and the general location. Also, it was super easy to do by hammering a bolt between the channel that made the sway bar mount. Problem is, the bolts stick down low adn got hung up, also, I felt like my down travel was limited. So on to design # 2: I like this setup alot better. While doing this mod I also added 2" to the lift blocks on top of the struts. Also used some aftermarket springs that were on the a De-air suspesnsioned 92 Legacy. This combo is Muuy Bueno!!! 13 inches clearance at the Front Diff!! 4inches of travel Wish that was better, but I can certainly live with it. Questions? Comments? Pics of your mods? Discuss
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So, I was changing the clutch cable on my 2nd Gen Brat when I found out the pedal box was cracked in two places. This was causing the pedal box to give and flex during operation of the clutch cable, which was resulting in poor shifting. I'm having an incredibly hard time sourcing a replacement. Pulling and welding the current one seems like my only other option, and that would probably not be as permanent of a fix as I would like. My first inclination was to check and see if I could use an ea82 pedal box. Has anyone done this?
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Wondering if anybody out there has any kind of dimensions for an EA81 bellhousing? Like the measurements of where it bolts to the back of the engine. Trying to draw up an adapter in Pro-E (CAD program) and cant seem to find any good dimensions to use.
