Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Swap'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Welcome to the USMB!
    • Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
    • Members Rides
  • Older Generations of Subaru's 1960-1994 Except Legacy and Impreza
    • Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
    • Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
  • Newer Generations of Subaru discussion
    • 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
    • BRZ and its Sister the Scion FRS/Toyota GT86
    • Crosstrek "XV"
  • Marketplace
    • Ultimate Subaru Store
    • Products for your Subaru
  • Upgrading and Racing Discussion
    • Performance Tech Forums
    • Subaru Modifications
    • Subaru MotorSports
  • Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual-The Knowledge Base of USMB. Complied posts and writeups to common problems and projects.
    • Submit a Tip or Mod to the USRM
    • Product Links and References
    • The old Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual
    • Engine
    • Engine Electrical
    • Transmission, Axle, and Brakes
    • Heating and Cooling systems
    • Body Exterior
    • Interior / Body Electrical
    • Stereo tips and tricks
    • Offroad Modifications
    • Suspension and Steering
  • Off Topic Areas
    • Shop Talk
    • Alternative Vehicles (non soob)

Product Groups

  • Member Accounts
  • Ultimate Subaru Decals
  • Subaru Parts
    • Weber Carbs and Parts
    • Used Subaru Parts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Full Real Name


Ezboard Name




  1. What is up everyone? I wanted to make a post of my latest swap, I started with a 1992 Loyale Wagon with a 4" lift kit homemade, 27" tires, 6 lug hubs, Datsun Turbine aluminum 14" wheels, it had a 1988 GL EA82 which ran amazing and had a surprising amount of power, it also has the dual range from an 88 GL as well, not one of those funky pushbutton deals the loyales had. On a trip back from Golden,CO to Cheyenne, WY where we moved to the EA started to knock really really bad. Maybe it was a rod, maybe it was a valve? Who cares it was a gutless EA82. So I began shopping for a donor... I found a 1990 Legacy down in fort Collins the guy had wrecked, he spun it around and slammed the rear end into a concrete barrier. Needless to say it was destroyed, I still opted to drive it all the way to my house from his though which was an hour away. The car ran awesome it just kinda leaned and drifted to the right a lot. This all started around Labor day and I just now finished yesterday, I contribute this to having a wife who is 8 months pregnant and we have a 2.5 year old boy so time was hard to come by. Also coming up with money to spend on the project is also very hard to explain to a preggo who needs things for a new baby as im sure some of you guys know haha. Anyways lets get into it, this is what I did that has worked great so far. I used the radiator from the legacy and it fit perfectly where the old one was, all I did was grind off the little metal studs that were on the bottom of the EJ rad so it would sit flat and I used my grinder to cut the sheet metal of the loyale so that the radiator would not lean into the engine, the only real issue I had was the radiator hoses but thanks to smart phones I just took a pic of the inlets/outlets and went to advance and grabbed a couple of hoses that looked like I could make work by cutting them. Thinking of it I had to cut a small piece of metal out from the inside of the hood so the rad cap wouldn't hit, worked great using the existing overflow reservoir. Exhaust: On the first swap I did I basically just bolted up the EJ header to the engine and got rid of the rest of the exhaust that bolted on with those spring bolts about middle of the car. At this junction I welded a 2" inlet 2" outlet cherry bomb then welded on a 45 degree 2" and straight out in front of the wheel tire. Makes for a badass Subaru sound and I mostly drive around with no music cause I love the way it sounds. Adapter Plate: For some reason I had it in my head SJR charged $400 for just the plate, then I wanted to look again the other day and that was for all of it including the drilled flywheel haha wow. I opted for a 16"x16" 1/2" thick plate of steel from metal distributors which ran me $90. This was just a plate mind you, I spent so many days grinding torching and welding to make it right, when I could've just paid $185. well well worth the money. The first plate I made I used 1/2" aluminum from Alreco in brighton, Colorado. Aluminum is much easier to work with that steel. I didn't have many issues with the plate at all actually and it is super strong, no issues at all so far. Wiring/Electrical: Yes, the most amazing part of the swap. If you are considering doing this swap and have never done an undertaking like this just do it stop being a wuss. Theyre just wires. On the other hand I am an elevator service tech and I deal with electricity and mechanics every day at work so it didn't bother me to dive right in as I have to read and figure out electrical systems on elevators when they break. This is what I did with my big stuff like the fuel pump relay, ignition relay, fuel pump yada yada. For the constant 12v power I used the fat white 12a going to the ignition switch in the steering column, I tapped in and then attached my own inline fuse, for the switched 12v I used the fat black 12ga wire going to the same switch, I also used an inline fuse for this as well. From there I wired up the fuel pump relay on the top as your looking down at it from the top there is a smaller green/blk wire that goes directly to F47#23 or D23 this is called Fuel Pump Control in the prints. The small yellow wire is attached to the 12V switched power that I tapped into, The blk/red wire goes to the positive side of the existing fuel pump, I tapped in the existing one that was under the dash on the pass side. the FAT yellow wire gets tapped in the 12v constant after the fuse I installed. The Ignition Relay: The light green wire, oh man this caused me many many hours of grief freezing in the garage. When you tear out the harness DO NOT disregard the diode. What is the diode you may be asking, well it is half grey and half black and has 3 wires coming out of it, I light green and 2 yellows, I disregarded this little gem at first, geez why wont this POS cranks?! Well lo and behold after doing a lot of research I found a Volkswagen wiring diagram where a guy transplanted an EJ22, that's when I saw the diode. This time I kept ALL of the wiring I removed from the legacy and with some digging I found it! With about a foot of wires sticking out of it still, I attached it with the light green wire coming off of the ignition relay with one end going to ECU point F47#5 Self Shutoff Control, one to one of the diode green wires, and one to 12V switched power. Boom that thing fired right up! Okay now to the rest of the IGN relay, the black on It goes to a ground, the 2 FAT yellows go to 12V constant and one of the FAT yellow/red wires goes to the O2 Sensor, the other FAT yellow/red goes to A2 and A13 (B48#2 B48#13) Tuning and testing: The thing would run awesome just idling, however when I drove it would backfire and sputter and buck and sneeze. Over the last 2 weeks ive been scratching my head and freezing trying to figure it out, was it a spark plug? No. Was it the plug wires? No. Oh Oh maybe a bad injector? Trying to pull one out I broke the top off...argh. another couple days later got 2 used ones, I had pulled the fuel injector next to it to compare when I went to find new ones at the junkyard, well I put the new ones back in and what do ya know it ran...terrible! spitting gas out the exhaust burning white smoke, what the hell? I pulled those two plugs and they were soaked in gas. What? Well more research and more days and random hours I found that when most people replace fuel injectors they don't pay attention to replacing the O ring which basically just allows fuel to literally pour in! I was able to get FI O rings at advance that were universal and it fixed that. Of course this 2.2 has the black top injectors and not the reds because I have 3 extra ones of those. Then came the eureka moment, after that incident I cleaned the plugs and wanted to test some more, my god it still backfires and sputters and cant hardly drive. Then the next day I figured id give it another shot and it had snowed the night before, I got in while it was warming up and turned on the wipers to get the snow off and as soon as I turned em on the car died. My head started to hurt, why did that happen? that has nothing to do with the engine! WTF. Then it hit me. Grounds. I remember attaching the ground of the ignitor and the MAF to the ground on the outside of the windshield wiper motor. Why I did this I don't know, I remember from the first swap a common ground is needed for all the grounds for less complications. Needless to say I took these ridiculous grounds off and attached a black wire and ran it to the common ground located in front of the battery. Then boom the car ran just the way I wanted, fast and loud. Holy crap what a relief! Forgive me for such a long post but I felt it was necessary and hopefully it helps some other poor sap like me someday. If you've got any questions feel free to ask, have a good one and good luck!
  2. Greetings all! I purchased my first Subaru--a 2003 Baja with an Automatic and 300k. The body is great, interior is beautiful, but the timing belt busted, and I'm in need of a new engine. I've scanned the stickies and tons of threads. While I've got an idea of what not to do for a swap, and a good start on how to how to replace just about any part--for the record some of the how to's on here are dynamite, I'm looking for what drops in, no question. I found one list, on.....Wikipedia. Forgive me. Impreza 2.5RS, 2.5TS 00-02 (US) Impreza Outback Sport 00-02, 04 (US) Forester 99-02 (US) Legacy 00-02 (US) Outback 00-04 (US) Baja 03-05 (US) I've read that it must be SOHC so maybe not from a 99 forester. If there's a Subaru vet out there willing to school me on whether or not that is a list I can depend on when shopping, I'm ready to take notes and provide any details one may need. Fire away. Please and thank you.
  3. Hi, I have a Subaru powered VW with a 94 ej22 in it. I am wondering if the intake from the 94 will fit a 98 engine. I wonder because my motor is getting tired and here in Ca I am supposed to use the 94 engine for smog reasons. I would like to go to the mechanical lifters and the 98, I think, still has the dual port exhaust. All my sensors and such will remain the same. Thanks
  4. I'm starting a thread about an issue I'm having and to see what suggestions anyone might have. We just swapped over the engine in a 2005 Saabaru 92x aero. The original engine was a ej205. The replacement engine is a reman ej255 long block unit from ATk for a 2005 wrx application.. We swapped over all of the components from the old engine with some minor modifications. We are using the ej255 heads and blocked off the cam sensor holes and avcs holes as we are not utilizing that system. We relocated the cam sensor back into the original location on the driver side head with an aftermarket bracket. The problem we are having now is that we have a no spark condition. We are getting an injection pulse and also a pulse to the ignition coil but no spark. Not sure of what amount of voltage I should be getting for a signal. We verified power and ground to coils. We verified on the back of the cam gear that the trigger points are identical to the old 2.0l cam gear amount of teeth etc. We verified that the crank gear also looked the same and had the same amount of teeth. Factory part numbers are the same for the crank gear for the two engines. We also checked timing belt marks verified everything lined up properly. I'm kind of at a loss here now any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  5. hey everyone, ive recently acquired an 87 RX coupe and i cannot get a title, so its been a parts car to my 87 turbo wagon for a bit. i was wondering how much trouble it would be to swap the 5spd dual range Awd RX tranny into my GL that has a part time Awd 5-spd im sure its been done with how similar they are, i just wanna know what all is involved in doing the swap thanks!
  6. I was just wondering if it be worth the time. I believe they only want $900 for it.
  7. I just bought a 1994 subaru loyale 4wd 5 speed.. It came with a parts car, 1993 loyale 1.8, but automatic tranny (the tranny is blown, hence its a parts car). However the parts car has a body in much much better shape (it doesnt have any of the typical subaru rust). My question is, is it possible to do a engine and tranny swap from the driver car to the parts car? I'm very mechanically inclined and it definitely looks doable, I'm just wondering if it will jive or not. Thanks for any help!!
  8. I just bought a 1994 subaru loyale 4wd 5 speed.. It came with a parts car, 1993 loyale 1.8, but automatic tranny (the tranny is blown, hence its a parts car). However the parts car has a body in much much better shape (it doesnt have any of the typical subaru rust). My question is, is it possible to do a engine and tranny swap from the driver car to the parts car? I'm very mechanically inclined and it definitely looks doable, I'm just wondering if it will jive or not. Thanks for any help!!
  9. I hear talk of many 'how to' threads for a EA82 5 speed tranny to D/R 5 speed swap but I can't find them. I find random htreads asking questions but never any how to's. Where might they be located? Link? Thanks
  10. so I'm just trying to see if this is possible. what i'm thinking about doing to taking a 86 brat and pull the motor and trany. i've found a donor car that i would take the trany, drive line, rear diff, and cv axles out of so i would have stronger parts to hold up better. i figured i would have to get a drive line made to fit the right length. i want to put a ej20 or ej22 motor into it to give it some go. the donor car is a mid 90's legacy. i just want to try and find out what i need to do before i get to deep into this build and get stuck. anything will help out.
  11. This is a write-up on using the Rear Wiper Arm from a '09-14 Honda Fit. This is a direct bolt on upgrade! Parts Needed: Honda Fit Wiper Arm Part Number: 76720-TF0-003 Wiper Blade: Trico Exact Fit 16B Install Duration: 5 Minutes _____________________________________________________________________________________ First off a new genuine Wiper Arm assembly can be found on Ebay for $23 or less, usually free shipping! Most don't come with a Wiper blade as shown, but most parts houses will have the Trico Exact-Fit 16B which is no longer the J-hook style clip. Now once you have the Wiper Arm, remove your original one by removing the one 10mm nut behind the plastic cover, pull off the old Wiper arm (May need to jiggle as they tend to get stuck on the motor shaft) once off, remove the round plastic dust cover which covers the motor shaft and nut, this part will no longer be needed as the new Wiper arm covers that. You will then want to position the new Wiper arm so the Wiper blade will be Level with the Window Trim/Seal, once adjusted, apply the original 10mm nut and tighten down with mild force, the Shaft will press into the Beveled washer inside the new wiper arm and it will not slip under operation! Install the new Plastic nut cover provided with the Wiper arm and you're finished! The new wiper arm will press harder on the window for a cleaner, consistent wiping path. One of the best upgrades you can do for visibly. Enjoy, -Tom Note: This setup may also work on the EA81 Wagon and Hatchback.
  12. Okay, I'll have to add pictures soon, but, I just completed the conversion to make my FWD DL become 4WD. If there's any interest in this, I'll post up pictures and a description/ instructions for the build and the best methods of afroengineering it all together. Until then, I'm going to take a shower and if anyone cares I will post up the build. I've attached a photo of the car which received the work.
  13. So, I was changing the clutch cable on my 2nd Gen Brat when I found out the pedal box was cracked in two places. This was causing the pedal box to give and flex during operation of the clutch cable, which was resulting in poor shifting. I'm having an incredibly hard time sourcing a replacement. Pulling and welding the current one seems like my only other option, and that would probably not be as permanent of a fix as I would like. My first inclination was to check and see if I could use an ea82 pedal box. Has anyone done this?
  14. Got the weber swap done and car is running. Been driving it for a couple days and it is much quicker in the lower end and a hell of a lot louder idles good and runs smooth other than a sort of "flat spot" when giving it more throttle, almost as if its shorted on fuel or air? I also think the timing could use some adjusting but I can't advance the disty anymore because of a port and hose coming out of the intake manifold, into the block. (This is an EA81 motor with a weber on a EA82 intake manifold). But thinking I can remove and block that hose to get the timing dialed. So my question to the board is; what would you do to this setup to give it just that much more power/response/smoothness? Cap and rotor? Coil? Btw it's a 1982 GL 4x4. Thank you!
  15. Picked up this straight body 74 Super Beetle a couple years back for the bugaru project.
  16. bought a write off 96 model .. suby with a working ej20 Na engine from and 5spd manual transmission and awd drivetrain ... and I already have a 94 gx impreza with an ej18 5spd fwd with a blown water pump and a really bad knock in the block from overheating due to blown water pump.... given that i paid $90au for the entire wreck i figure i might as well do the swap to the 2 litre...instead of a rebuild(to fix the knock which is most likely rod end bearings) .. so would swapping the engine be fairly straight forward?
  17. Can I put a 97 forester transmission in a 98 forester? They both are auto transmission and AWD. Sorry if it is a dumb question I'm not very knowledgeable on cars. I bought a 98 forester and I need to replace the transmission.
  18. Hey guys, I am thinking about taking on an EJ22 to EJ20T heart transplant for my 99 OBS, had a few questions: MY OBS has the 5 speed MT 1) what years of WRX with EJ20T should I look for? 2) What all components do I need to take from other car: brakes, ECM, harness, exhaust, etc (not looking to change dash)? 3) what should I absolutely avoid in the process? (tips/tricks) 4) Should I keep my "glas trans" or should I grab the WRX tranny and rear end to match the gears too? Thanks everyone. this is a killer forum. Cheers.
  19. I have and 87 GL wagon, and it has this cool feature to switch IN and OUT of 4 wheel drive. and i'm planning on switching the insides with possibly a wrx set-up, but I don't want to lose that Drivetrain feature. Can anyone give me some info on ANY car that has that feature?
  20. I am curious if a wrx engine will bolt into my 1998 Impreza with a non turbo 2.2 in it now this engine is sounding pretty rough and before it completely dies i'm doing some research so if it can be swapped without doing heavy mods to frame or engine please let me know what all needs to change. i'm assuming wiring will have to change (do they make wiring harnesses that will convert it?) and i'm hoping the engine mounts are the same.
  21. So i guess this is my pre-build thread to see peoples ideas and any possable tips reguarding the restoration phase of the brat. my brat unfortunatley needs a lot of body work. however i found a very clean 85 GL hatch that i can take just about the whole front end off of. end product will hopefully have a wrx/sti driveline (or maybe something a bit more valuable, but that all depends on if i can find it). the GL will likely recieve the brat's current driveline which would be an upgrade from 2 wheel front to 2/4wheel dual range. the brat literally has all the rust spots you would expect froma neglected brat (though the frame looked good last i checked). any tips on body repair for the rear end (in the bed and the rear sill that almost doesnt exist anymore) and people that might be selling the bed chrome for a 2nd gen as mine is in questionable condition.
  22. so, as my topic says, im going to be modding my brat into a little rally beast. Im already looking for needed replacement parts such as hood, fenders, grill, rear bumper, etc. mostly cosmetic. but im still planning out the major modifications. One of the first things on the long list of modifications and repairs needed is an engine (well..actually an entire drive system, but engine being the focal point) for the much needed increase in power. im thinking the system from a late 90's impreza; ej25 motor, manual transmission, awd. actually, let me take a step back and just lay out the basic overall idea for the project. basically i want an every day driver that i can also go play in the sand with . cosmetically i want it to look like a factory soup up. very simple black body with white accents. mechanics is a who different story. im going to be building it for aggressive offroad use, so a small lift and slightly larger tires is in order. and an engine with much greater power; more specifically torque. any ideas on what engine or what vehicle to steal the drive system from? or any other ideas or tips? i will post pictures shortly, but considering im not in the same state as my brat at the moment, i only have pictures from earlier this year
  23. Hello, I have a 2002 legacy outback with the 2.5 and a auto tranny. Motor is knocking bad and has been repaired before so looking to replace. Found a 2001 outback in town that I can get cheap as a donor. However, it has a standard behind it and not sure on dohc or sohc. Question is, will in bolt in being out of a standard and how do I know if it will work with my computer etc. Thanks
  24. So, i have a 1986 Brat GL that i recieved as a gift from in the family that is in depressingly sad condition. the engine runs, but has a phenominal time starting up, havent seen any problems with the tranny and 4 wheel. recently my mom was driving it and one wheel seized from a bad bearing(all 4 are since replaced), there is the all too common wheel well rust in the bed, both fenders and the hood are beyond repair and need to be replaced. drivers fender has a dent that interferes with the door and has rusted into its bent form, the passenger fender was attacked by a bear (not joking. both on my brat and my brothers outback legacy, the passenger fender got bit and bent out). and the hood has an odd bit of rust in the under frame of it. irrepairable, and i have no idea how it got there . interior is also in sad condition, but i dont need to type out annother paragraph on that. Now, in a random stroke of luck, i found a 1985 GL hatchback (2 wheel drive) that is the same generation body styling . and the even better thing about it; NO RUST . it lived in arizona all its life so it has the standard arizona car accessories such as; the awesome faded paint look, that is now a matte finish also. the oh, so, popular cracked dash and just overall rubber parts dry rotting. so my question is, just how much of the GL am i able to transplant into the brat? considdering the brat has been a New England car for most, if not all, of its life, i want to eliminate as much rust as possable. fenders and hood are a must, but do the doors match? windshield? i will upload pictures soon side note: i dont have access to my brat at the moment, due to it being on the opposite side of the country, but im going to get it this summer
  25. Basically I'm wondering what radiators will work in my 82 gl wagon. With ea81. The junkyard has an 85 , 87 and an 88. Do these have the same radiator? Is there any parts from these cars that are the same from 82? Rear bumper possibly? What about turning lights and brake lights ? If any parts would swap right over with bolt in ease?
  • Create New...