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Showing results for tags 'Transmission'.
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Hi, I just got my first Subaru, a 1978 Brat! It's been sitting for a while (no rust AZ car!!) The original owner died and his grandaughter knew nothing about it or it's history. I can turn the engine by hand and it was full of oil, very good sign!! the shifter was unbolted and laying on the floor, I bolted it back up and could only get first (?) and neutral. Tranny had NO oil showing on the dipstick. I'm thinking they ran it out of oil and fried the trans? Any ideas from you experts? I would like to upgrade to a 5 spd if I'm replacing or rebuilding the trans, I've heard Subaru had a 1.8 5 speed dual range for the 1981 Brat that might be a easy swap? Thanks for your ideas and help!
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hello all, I'm new to the forum... I'm swapping a 96 ej25 motor and TZ102Z2ABA transmission into my 99 LGT (ej25 motor, TZ1A2ZJEAA transmission) The research I've done shows the 4.444 ratio on both transmission to rear ends. (please correct me if you have differing info) Everything lines up the same except the plugs from the car to the 102z2aba transmission are different. The plugs have the same number of pins but are different in shape. The wiring from the old trans to the new are different colors. I can't find a wiring diagram or info from someone that has done this swap before and am not sure where to go from here... -
I have a 2001 Subaru Forester L with auto trans. I started hearing a really loud clunking noise (as the wheels turn) as I was driving near my house. I immediately took it back to my garage. The noise is very brutal, as in something is ready to break and break badly. The motor and everything jerks pretty bad with the noise while the wheels are rotating. First inspection, it had a really bad busted inner CV joint on the passenger side front, which I noticed had lots of play. Replaced with a new axle, but the problem is still there, no change at all. It really sounds like the noise is coming from inside the transmission, like the front differential is ready to go??? It only makes the noise when running in gear while driving or with all wheels lifted off the ground. It doesn't seem to make the noise / jerk when turning the wheels by hand. I took a rather large video (over 150MB) so I'll provide a link to the video below, any help would greatly be appreciated. https://sendvid.com/om7qyxz4 -
something happened about 1/2 mile from home this morning, immediately after a 'gentle' u-turn. Now there's a 'clattering' noise - seems kinda rhythmic as I went home at slow speed in 2nd gear.and related to road speed, not rpm No overheat, I don't 'think' there's loss of power.... too dark to look at anything yet. Hoping for axle problem, fearing transmission or, ....engine. The rhythmic part gets me - concerned it's valve train related. -
So the 3at in my 92 loyale is slowly going up the creak, engine has some valve and leaks some oil but is mostly still good. Now all I have access to for parts cars are an 91 loyale and an 84 GL. The 91 loyale was drivable a few months ago but the tranny seemed sloppy, the 84 GL while not ideal has dual range so I'm tempted to put its 4speed in my loyale. I hear the 4speeds suck though so I'm wondering is it worth it for D/R or should I use the 91s 5speed? This car is already slow so I'm not worried about that, maybe an EJ swap in the future when my engine nukes. It's a daily/ATV and the trails around me are extremely crap due to the Florida like rain we got this year. This is why I'm really set on the D/R. Even if it's a harder swap and needs brackets built, not to much of a problem. So anyone have a rightup on this type of swap? Found lots about putting a 5speed in an ea81 but nothing about a 4speed d/r into a ea82.
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So I've got a 92 loyale with a rebuilt 1.8 and the stock 3AT tranny pb4wd. The engine seems fine other than some valve chatter I've been to lazy to fix but the 3at is getting sketchy. It's left me stranded a few times and it gets -60 here so no good. I'd love do drop in a 5 speed d/r but haven't found one yet and frost is on the ground so I'm down to what's at the landfill. I can pull whatever parts from a 90s? Legacy sedan, 91 loyale with a sloppy 5speed, or the only one that's in any remotely decent shape; a 84 GL with a 4speed or MAYBE a 5 speed not sure as I didn't get a chance to mess with it much. So is it feasible to swap out the 3at for a ea81 4 or 5 speed? So fare on here I haven't found a thread with much on the subject. I know the 4speed isn't as good as an ea82 5speed but the 5speed in the 91 loyale is very sloppy and goes into gear with out the clutch so I'm assuming it's toast. Should I just deal with the 3at till I can find a good 5speed d/r? Swap in the questionable 5speed from the 91? Try to use the ea81 tranny? I also plan to do a 4" lift and maybe a EJ engine swap if that matters.
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OK. 2000 Outback with 2.5 and 4eat. Son thought it was an off-road vehicle and did some mudding and crashed the transmission pan on a rock. Sloow leak from tiny hole in dent, eventually would not engage drive and that's when I was informed. Lots of mud removed, pan replaced, internal filter while I was there, new fluid. Runs super. Couple weeks later son complains car not engaging drive again. See posts about leaky seals and bad pumps etc. So decide to get Trans-x. At Autozone with Trans-x in hand find out atf not registering on dipstick! In with Trans-x and nearly 2 qt of atf and all ok again. NEXT DAY it is 1qt down again and I CANNOT FIND A LEAK ANYWHERE! Are there any mystery places atf can go??? -
Driving down the highway at 70mph tonight a violent metal grinding slowed me to a stop in a few hundred feet. I felt parts flying at me in the cabin as I was slowing down. Upon inspection the shifter has popped free of it's layered plastic housing and is stuck in park. Moving it does not seem to engage the tranny. The car is still runnig but stuck in place. I'm assuming it's a blown transmission but understand that is quite rare on these cars. Anyone else has a similar experience? The car is a H6 3.0 Outback 176k miles. Previous symptoms were stuttering upon acceleration and an intermittent rattling that I thought was the exhaust shield. I will post pictures of what I find in the morning. -
To start off, I don't expect you guys to automatically know whats wrong with my car. I'm partially looking for advice with this thread, but also using it as a journal of sorts to keep track of what I go through with this problem. Anyway, the problem: I bought this car about four months ago for less than two-thousand USD. It's my first car, and I always wanted a wagon, so this was perfect. For about the first month, everything ran smooth. Then, the spark plugs started acting up. Replaced those, and everything was peachy again. Now, about a month after changing the spark plugs, I'm having a problem that's hard to describe. The car will be fine and the transmission will shift as intended, and then all of the sudden, a check engine light comes on and the transmission (I assume) starts to get clunky in a way. It's happened four times now. The first time, I was in a drive through, and the CEL came on. I pulled into the parking lot to inspect things, and could find nothing immediately obvious wrong with the car. It drove as intended for about two miles, and then as I rounded a corner from a stop light, second gear started doing the clunky thing, and wouldn't accelerate past 20 mph. I pulled over, contemplated what I should do, but knew I could do nothing sitting on the side of the road, so I pulled off and headed home as I was only 5 minutes away. It didn't happen again the rest of the way. I drove the car again that night for about ten miles and nothing went wrong, no CEL. A couple days later, I was coming back home from a relatives house, about a 30 minute trip, very heavy traffic, and as I got close to my house, the car didn't want to accelerate again, and was "clunky". Thats the only way I can describe it. This time, it felt like it was every gear doing it. I parked it, shut it off and then turned it back on, and it kept doing it. I got home, and then shut it off and let it sit for about two hours and decided to test it again. It operated as intended. Yesterday, I made the same trip, but went out of my way to avoid traffic. As I neared my house, the CEL popped on, but nothing notable with the transmission happened. As of this post, I just ran the car from a cold start to operating temperature to check the transmission fluid, and to me, it seemed low. I filled it to approximately the full mark for a hot temperatures and ran it again to double check the level. I scoured the internet since the first hiccup, and came across a thread that pointed to possibly a grounding issue with the transmission. It half-way described my problem, but my grounds seem okay, even after unbolting and rebolting them, but I won't rule it out, For now, I'm going to assume (and pray) that the low dexon level was my problem. I'll post again if I have more issues. Feel free to reply with advice, it's all appreciated -
Hi, I know this question has been asked a lot on this forum however I aim to do as much research as possible into everything I do so I get it right the first time. I am on a fairly tight budget and would like to know a few things. 1. Will I be able to use the ej18 intake runners on the ej22 P2 block to get it to work 2. Will I be able to use the ej18 flywheel and clutch on the ej22 for the time being 3. Will the transmissions bolt up or will I need to install a different transmission 4 can I just get rid of the knock sensor and it (ej22) run fine Kind regards~Abid -
Hi folks, It's been a while since I posted here, 'cause the wagon has been running fine, but a BAD THING happened today. I was toodling home through my neighborhood when, upon starting up from a stop at an intersection, I heard a CLUNK and lost motive power. the engine was running and revving, and the car was...just...rolling. I hit the 4WD button on the shifter (this is a 5-speed) and the rear drive engaged. I got back underway, nice and easy, for the mile or so home. Once home, I took a quick look underneath the front end to confirm that the new CV axles and joints were still in place, which they were. So, I suspect a problem with or in the transaxle. QUESTIONS: Does that sound about right? Am I overlooking anything? What's the diagnostic procedure, or did I just experience it? Is this a repair, or a replacement? How big of a PITA is the job? Considering this car has 245k miles on it and needs new front engine seals at the next timing belt change (i.e. soon), is it worth pursuing? TIA
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Hi .... been a fan of subaru outback ever since drove a rental back in 08. have 2015 2.5 outback (not pzev) done close to 30k miles i have been going to the dealer for 6k oil change service till 18k miles and once after and napa auto as always felt the dealers fleece... need advice on getting his 30k health check... 1) Transmission oil change - what should it actually cost if done right (labor & oil costs) (couldnt locate any mention of oil grade for transmission) 2) is it worth getting an extended warranty that i got advertised by a mail from subaru usa (89 bucks per month for 10 months) hadnt thought much into getting one but awork mate mentioned his 41k mile forester had a busted bearing which cost him 1200 $ at the dealership 3) are there other items to be looked at during the 30k health check - other than engine oil change, oil filter change, cabin air filter change and ofcourse the ? -
Hello all, My automatic transmission in my 84 GL hatchback is not shifting gears when in drive. I can manually shift them from first to second with the shifter but it will not do it on it's own in drive. I have it at a transmission shop and they said they tried replacing the modular and checking for the compression (which was fine) but it still is resisting. Would anyone know what is wrong? Or would someone know where I can look for a transmission for the car and what are some interchangeable transmissions. -
Hello, I need a replacement trans for my beater, a 2000 Outback. The OEM trans is one MY only and impossible to find at a reasonable price. The trans code is TY754VCACA. I don't care if the gear ratios are different as long as the axle ratio is the same as the rear, 4.111 and it fits. Does anyone have any recommendations that will fit? -
This is my first Subaru, and I love it. It's a '98 Outback with 5-sp manual, about 165,000 miles. Last night I was up-shifting through a corner, driving normally, and suddenly the car just stopped moving. There was no noise or anything. Now I can shift through all the gears without using the clutch, with the car running, and it just sits there. I'm used to clutch failure modes where the clutch slips, or you can't shift, but I've never seen this one. I don't know whether to think it's the clutch, transmission, transfer case, or what. I haven't dumped the codes yet. Anyone ever experience this? Wayne West Michigan -
New on the forum but I've been reading a lot of your stuff for a while now. I bought a Subaru Legacy 2003 sedan, 2.5L automatic transmission, no turbo. I was losing oil and started to stall so I eliminated the obvious then suspected the head gasket. On my way to my friend's garage I blew through over two litres of oil, limped to his place/garage and when we dismounted it we found piston number four was missing a chunk, right on the lower edge, with no visible damage anywhere else (ÔÔ never even heard of this before). Needless to say I went looking for a motor. I found a Legacy 2003 2.5: Automatic transmission, no turbo but station wagon with a good motor and worn differential bearings (50,00 fewer kilometers). The serial numbers were compatible and It was in better shape overall so my friend and I pulled out my transmission and installed it in the new car. All went well, despite the inevitable skin and blood donations ... lol. We changed the differential, engine and transmission oil, radiator coolant, etc and started it up for a test drive. The initial grinding noise was traced to the heat shield which ended up requiring some adjustment (done). Following that, we found the torque converter needed topping up. Needless to say, I drove a loaner home and left the car there. The last grinding noise/vibration/rubbing has us baffled (and he knows a great deal more about mechanics and cars than I do, I just provide the body, a sounding board and some minor analytical thinking with occasional spurts of imagination) From a dead stop in reverse, all is fine. From a dead stop (under load) there is a grinding/rubbing noise with a vibration starting from the transmission and travelling backwards. We already swapped the new brakes over from the old Subaru so it's not that. The heat shield is good, the bearings as well, the driveshaft is clear and so are the wheels. It's been put into front wheel drive so it isn't the AWD. In first under load, the vibration and noise are prominent. In second if the gas is pressed heavily it's noticeable as well up to about 40 km/h. On the highway it comes back if kickdown is engaged. I'm having difficulty uploading the recordings I made with my phone so I had to convert the format to mp3 Voice_002.mp3 Since the sound seems to have improved, I'm wondering if air could have gotten in to the transmission. If so, searches suggest that transmissions are self-bleeding, so I'm also wondering if i should floor it until it stops or take it ease (or maybe even play with the gears stopped, with a foot on the brakes). My problem with this is that it doesn't happen in reverse; is that possible? If not, I'm hoping someone here has an idea of what else to check -
Hey All! Newb poster here, so go easy. So after buying this '97 OBW from the one that shall from here until eternity be referred to as, "The Lying Sap Sucking Puke", I have pulled the motor and replaced the head gaskets and everything else that you do with the motor out. Fast forward to this week... after test driving for the first time I discover it has a sever case of "torque bind".... sooo I go to the stealer and buy a new duty 'C' solenoid... I think no big deal... that is until I get to the point at which I need to rotate the drive line to unbolt it... I am able to get 3 out of the 4 bolts... I go and put the trans in neutral and climb back under... go to rotate the drive line and nada... won't turn but maybe a few degrees.... tried shifting through the range a few times thinking it may be "stuck" or something and still no joy.... I am at a loss and I refuse to lose to this beast! The only other thought that I have had is to jack up a rear tire and see if I can get the stupid thing to spin. Thoughts? At this point I yield to the Great Subaru Kings of yesteryear that have more experience than I in the ways of the mechanical realm. Thank you in advance!! MT -
my 92 legacy transmission lets go while idling causing a hard jump when I give it gas while leaving a stop. it also slips in reverse when the trans is cold if I don't put it reverse and sit there for a few seconds before moving. any ideas? -
Hey everyone. Ok, so I get off work one day, and figured I should stop and get engine oil and filter before I head home to do my standard maintinence on my 1995 legacy L. While I'm stopped in the parking lot, I'm noticing a large amount of smoke coming out of my engine bay. I turn off the vehicle and get out to look underneath. I find a very large amount of ATF leaking onto my cat. I immediately call for a tow truck so I can diagnose the issue at home. I've searched a huge amount of forums regarding the 4eat, leaks, problems, and so forth. I can't find much. Other than, by where the fluid is draining out, it's most likely my rear driveshaft seal. I was just wondering if anyone else has had this type of experience, or knows if it's even worth fixing. Thank you!
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Can I fit a 2010 legacy automatic transmission on a 2002 Forester. What would be the differences. -
So I just sunk $1300 into replacing the head gaskets on my 98 Legacy Outback Limited. Got the car back and everything was fine. Drove it up north over the weekend (~200 miles) and on the way back the engine lost power while cruising at 70MPH. It sort of lurched forward as if I were running out of gas (which I wasn't). I attempted to start the car after this and the AT Oil Temp light came on and flashed 16 times. I drove about another 1/4 mile before it died again. I got the car towed home and figured I'd take it to my mechanic the next day. Well I tried to start it and now I have nothing. No crank, nothing but a faint *click* sound when I turn the key. Anyone have this problem happen before? I can't think of anything that would cause my car to both die on the highway, trigger the AT Oil Temp light, AND no crank no start afterwards. But maybe the problems are unrelated. In either case, I'm kind of at a loss of what to do with it at this point. Any advice is appreciated. -
Hey guys, first of all I need to confess: I don't really own a complete Subaru (sorry) ... Last year, we swapped a Subaru EJ25 SOHC engine from a 2000 Legacy (156 hp) into our 1973 VW Beetle. We also installed the stock ECU and all the necessary parts from the original wiring harness. Combined with a 5-speed manual gearbox, a lighter flywheel and a custom exhaust system, the car produced 187 whp on the dyno. It is really fun to drive and nobody even remotely expects this kind of power in an old VW Beetle... However, the ECU constantly reports error code 38 "Engine torque control" or "Torque permission signal". When I checked the ECU with OBD2, I found values for "Engine Torque Request", "Torque permission signal" and some more stuff that leads to the conclusion that the ECU is expecting to have a Subaru automatic transmission with the corresponding TCU connected. I bought another ECU that was confirmed to be out of a car with manual transmission, but after installing it, I got exactly the same behavior and the same error codes as before. So there are two options: 1. Someone screwed me over and the new ECU is again out of car with automatic transmission 2. The ECUs are actually the same for AT and MT and the transmission mode is set somewhere else... For the older engines 1996-1999, I found some information about a "AT/MT identification pin" on the wiring harness, which defines whether the ECU should behave like AT or MT. Does anybody know, where to find that pin on my ECU (2000 Legacy, EJ25 SOHC 156hp) or if it even exists? I checked multiple websites for ecu pin-outs or wiring information, including this forum and also this one: https://hackedecu.com/ultimate_subaru_pinout ... but I did not really find anything useful for the 2000 Legacy... best, Chris
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I have a 91 Legacy wagon which constantly has issues with starting. Normally if it has been sitting for a few hours without being driven then it will start up just fine, but if I drive it somewhere and then turn it off and try starting it again shortly afterwards, it will not stay started. The only way I have found to make it stay started when I am having trouble is to press on the accelerator as I am starting it, and then I have to leave my foot on the accelerator for a few minutes to keep the car from turning off again. I recently got a new battery, had the alternator checked (it was said to be fine), new fuel pump, ecm repaired, fuel intake system cleaned and new fuel filter, new air control valve, and plenty of other repairs along with it. Everything is perfectly fine with the car as far as I can tell, so unless there is something else that someone can think of which may be causing the issues I am having, then I have no idea what could be wrong other than it is simply an old car and that alone could be causing problems. I have already put over $1,500 worth of work into this vehicle since the problems started, and I am not ready to try anything else unless it is cheap or easy. Can anyone can suggest anything that I can possibly try to fix the problem which may be cheap or easy to do? Aside from that I will probably unfortunately just have to cut my losses and get rid of the car. The air intake hose was replaced in October, so I doubt if that is the issue even though it sounds like a likely culprit. -
Was unable to find any info on this, I'm sure it's been asked before. Will the 5 speed single range 4wd transmission from a 91 loyale bolt up to an Ea81 motor? I have an 85 brat and a spare EA81 out of another 85 brat, possibly purchasing a 5 speed single range 4wd transmission, just wondering if and what I would need to make this work. Picture of the brat for posterity.
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1991 Subary Legacy - I used to ski and thought the Legacy AWD would be a real boon to driving up. It acted odd > When going up hill under power (freeway or near freeway speed) the front wheels would lose traction, spin way up (verified by the tach), and SUDDENLY the AWD would kick in. Traction would be good, then just as suddenly the AWD would dis-engage and the process would repeat itself. I thought it was poor tires, never having had AWD before. I was not sure HOW AWD should act. My previous ride was a 4WD Toyota Tercel that you engaged with a lever. Personally I thought it was great and worked quite well but was obviously different. Quit skiing so the car seldom gets in snow anymore, but occasionally in our driveway on a slope one tire will end up on wet grass. When loaded (I scuba dive now so the load is not trivial), when trying to take off it will spin > then suddenly engage. Engagement is not smooth, more like revving up the car a middling amount and putting the automatic transmission in gear. Now I have GOOD tires and fairly new all around. Recently I took it in for it's first CV joint replacement (160K). The shop (Subaru only) indicated the transmission had a problem with the rear not engaging correctly. Well, how about that. They also said that otherwise it was fine and probably not worth the trouble of tranny repair. I agreed since the AWD is about 95+% not necessary. If I didn't know there was a problem, there is almost nothing other than this odd and occasional behavior to indicate it. Then talking with a dive buddy that runs a Transmission shop indicted it could be electrical with the throttle sensor providing input to gradually engage the AWD. I did some searching and find there appears to be a bunch of such sensors. Anyone know where to start on this issue and what to check and where? I don't have anything to check computer codes nor do I have any CEL issues. Note-While researching I found out about the FWD fuse. I JUST put it in and will be taking it on a 100 mile test trip this afternoon. A trip around the block indicated normal driving behavior and a new FWD red icon on the dash. Appreciate any help. Fritz
