Search the Community

so i am pretty new to subaru's I have driven them and helped a few pepole do small stuff. But any way I was on CL the other day saw a ad selling a ej22 phase for 75 bucks 150 with the manifold (ad said it had a spun bearing). So i figured hell why not just buy it and learn on the worst thing that could happen is I learn something new. Got it home started to take it apart i should have the block split by today. So my goal as of right now is throw better cames on it new rods and pistons boost it and throw it in something lol. So the pics are what i have taken apart right now. Update:i saw this ad cl for 2005 impreza sti heads anyone know if this will fit if so do you for see any issues i may run into?

threw a code for tps (94 legacy ej22) replaced with new one. aligned with paint marks but still throwing the code, getting a sputter at WOT from a dead stop randomly, especially when not at full operating temp

I have a 1993 Subaru Legacy that has a strong engine but it smokes intermittently (not always but usually) in a big puff when I am traveling down a mountain (I live in Colorado) on the interstate and I begin to accelerate after costing in gear a good ways down to help slow the decent. More recently will also let out a smaller puff of smoke while traveling down the interstate at a constant speed in a more level place like Denver if I start accelerating, although that doesn't happen as consistently. I have replaced the timing belt twice (it's been happening the last 40,000 miles) and understand this procedure as well as have done it on multiple cars. It is definitely not a timing problem. I am curious if the issue is a result of some sort of blow by, rings, or if there is some other possibility such as intake parts/valves that could need replaced? Ideas? I would like to resolve this without having to take the long block engine apart if possible! Overall the EJ22 runs as strong as any I have had and there is no suggestion she is ready to quit. There is roughly 230,000 miles on this well maintained machine.

Backstory: We purchased a 1995 Impreza L. It was originally equipped with an EJ18, but has an EJ22. It has run like crap the entire time and recently emptied the oil, due to a 0.45 cal hole in the oil pan. We have removed the engine and cracked the case for the rebuild. I found that the engine came from a 1995 Legacy Wagon 4EAT. I have several issues that I want to address. 1. There are vacuum lines disconnected and plugged. From experience, these are crucial to the computer deciding how the engine runs. I believe it has the original EJ22 intake manifold. I need help here. 2. Since this engine was in an AT, the MT requires the Timing belt guide plate. Which part is appropriate for this. Note: the timing keeps slipping. 3. Since I am replacing the wear components in the engine, what are the original specs on the crank, rods and cylinders? 4. Is there a solitary kit or will I need to piece together a kit. I have found some kits, but they are missing components that I need or have components I don't need. 5. What would be the proper vacuum hose routing, given this configuration? 6. Any other information that you can think of... Does anyone have information on these issues or know of a source where they have already been answered? This engine is unusual, when compared to others. This is a daddy/daughter project. I have concerns, because I am giving this car to my her and hope that it will carry her for the next 20 years. Thanks,

I have just purchased a 1988 subaru GL wagon dual range 5 speed transmission SPFI ea-85 with 162,xxx for $500 little to no rust. everything works except when you switch into four wheel high or low the car will drive but once you start accelerating a nasty shake / shudders start shaking the whole car and when you try and turn the whole car locks up completely. It drives in 2 wheel perfectly fine except at high speeds (50+) the car will vibrate from the rear differential a little bit. My guess is that the rear differential is not functioning properly somehow. I also have a 92 legacy that has 140,xxx that I want to swap the ej22 into the gl. If someone could help me diagnose the problem with the four wheel that would be much appreciated and if someone could point me towards a how to ej swap thread and tell what all I might need that would also be beyond helpful.

I have recently pulled a EJ22 engine to swap into a 94 Legacy that threw the rod. I have removed EJ22 engines a few times on other 2.2L Subies, done timing belts, and it is a fairly simple process. My question is the engine I've found has several oil leaks which I would like to clear up before installing. One of the confusing ones is the Camshaft o-ring replacement. On the back of the engine (passengers side?) it seems like the oil is weeping out of the cover which is bolted down on the head. I understand there is an o-ring in here as well as one on the opposite head in front. Are these o-rings easy to replace and can I get some advise or a link into a string that goes over this? I can't find this process discussed in any depth within the forum.

Hi. I put 94 legacy n/a into my Vanagon a couple years ago. My first trip to Washington and then south to San Diego yielded mileage of 18-21 per gallon. I took a trip to Sacramento yesterday and got 12 . The van ran strong and seemed to run as usual. I only noticed the fuel wasn't lasting too long. My wife drives the van mostly around town and is always filling up, I figure because of all the stop and go. My idle only seems a tad slow but it has always been that way. I pulled the plugs and did a comp check, 150-160. The plugs looked a bit lean but not like they get hot. I can run at 70 all the way to Sac but generally keep around 60 - 65. The only oddity I see is my first water reserve goes low and doesn't push water into the overflow tank.

This is probably a stupid question but..... I just about finished the ej22 swap into my loyale everything was going smoothly until my fuel pump stopped working again. the relay clicks when turned to start like it should but the fuel pump is not priming anymore. will i be needing to replace the fuel pump or is it more of a wiring issue? also i do have spark so i don't think its an ecu issue. any help would be greatly appreciated

I am currently swapping an ej22 out of a 1992 legacy into my 1990 Loyale. Everything is done except the wiring. i got my harness from SJR, i currently have the 3 yellow wires labeled hot in run and start and hot at all times wired directly to the battery (Just temporarily). the black and red wire labeled fuel pump is wired to the blue and white wire from the old fuel pump relay ( the fuel pump was working but its not anymore) the alternator is wired up to the original wires from the vehicle. (The charge light was flashing while cranking but its not anymore) the wires labeled starter, trans, coolant, fan. radiator, select monitor, oil pressure, ac, check engine, and tach are not currently connected to anything my question is with this current setup is there a way to get it started it currently cranks over fine and the fuel pump was pumping but there is no spark im a little lost at why there is no spark and what happened to the fuel pump i know grounding could be an issue but i don't really know where to start, does the ecu need to be grounded and if so how also i don't know if there is a minimum voltage the battery needs to get everything going it currently has 12.36 volts i have read through several other peoples threads including numbchux, but im running out of things to try, the engine ran fine right before we pulled in out of the donor vehicle i suck at electrical so any help is greatly appreciated thanks

Hey y'all, about to do a EJ22 swap into my Loyale,with the EA82 transmission. I have the re-drilled EA82 flywheel and i'm going to use the XT6 pressure plate and clutch disk(Correct?) my question is whether i should use the XT6 release bearing or an EA82 one?

So first off let me say hello, and thanks for this informative site. Im not very experienced in working on my own cars. Ive in a bit of a money crunch these days ad have decided to do some basic stuff myself. I have a Haynes manual which seems to help. Ive succesfully changed the fuel filter and replaced a cracked fuel line. The engine has been running really rough, and cutting off in the middle of the road, especially at stop lights, etc. I took it to the shop for a diagnostic and they said the spark plugs were fouled and the engine was running on three cylinders. I got some new plugs from car quest and they made sure they were gapped there for me. Nice guys, they have offered me some good info before. I changed out the plugs out no problem (didnt use a tork wrench though). The car wouldnt start. I tinkered with the plugs and tightened them a bit and got it running. But the car runs rough still, revving up and down when in park. I took for a spin and it cut off, same as before. I double checked my haynes manual and it looks like I have the wrong plugs and the gap we set it to was wrong. I just wanted to get some opinions and see what people thought, is this the problem? I cant get back to the store to get new plugs for a bit. Im hoping that this will fix the problem though.

I'm thinking 25d block, 22e heads, cometic gasket, all with the ej18 intake so I don't have to touch wiring (that stuff scares me ). Doing this for cheap power in my imp. Good or bad idea? Or maybe just throw a 25d block inbetween my heads. I just miss my power from my 2.5gt.

Hey all from Spokane, WA! Im looking at getting my first Subaru And i found a guy wanting to sell his 2000 Impreza OB sport. Problem is, he says in the messages we have sent back and forth its a 2.5L but i havent found definitive evidence of an '00 OBS with a 2.5 liter. Iam new to Subies but like most of my interests i research the crap out of it before i buy. Am i misinformed or does he not know the difference maybe?

Hello everyone, just have some general questions regarding my newest purchase. I have recently bought a 1997 Subaru Impreza, engine is an EJ22, 2.2 L, automatic, and only 114k miles. After a couple of weeks with the car, I have a few questions. 1) The brake seems to go halfway to the floor before I get any sort of stopping power. Pumping does not seem to help. I took it to Belle Tire to look at it since it was free. They said the pads and rotors were in good shape, as well as the rear drums. When I asked about the pedal going halfway to the floor, the man working the counter told me his mechanic said it felt fine. I really don't think its normal, but if it is, or someone knows what the reason might be, that would be great to know. I initially thought that it was air in the system, but the previous owner had the brakes done at the dealership, which makes me skeptical that there would be. I didn't see any leaks underneath or on the wheels, and I do not seem to be leaking any brake fluid. 2) recently when I have been starting my car, I've noticed a very slight knock, that goes away once the car heats up. From what I can gather, it seems to do with the oil that's currently in the system? Its only been into the low 40's overnight at best, if that helps at all. I also think it may have sat for a short period of time before it was sent to auction, and subsequently to the dealership I got it from. 3) I've read of head gaskets going bad on Subaru's somewhat frequently. Although I do not think it is, it still has the original gasket so I'm somewhat skeptical. My fluids clean and don't seem to be mixing with anything, but I would like to know how feasible it would be that it is bad, or will be going bad in 2 or so years. 4) Really anything else I should look for/check that has been a problem with the model. Thanks for all of your help in advanced, Trevor

Ok, I have read many forums with many conflicting replies with the following pursuit. A Ej25 block with EJ22 heads for higher compression. The following are my perameters of the build that I hope you guys can help me with. 1). I have limited room for this build. This is not going into subaru, so I have a maximum engine width to be 28 1/2", rocker cover to rocker cover. so I believe I will need phase 1 heads to do this. 2). I would like it to be SOHC. not DOHC not enough room and heavier. 3). It must be NA, so no forced induction of any kind please. 4). I would like it use existing available parts from donor. 5). Which ECU for up to 6500rpm? 6). Which head gaskets and will I need? And will I need to port the combustion chamber to match the cylinders? 7). Any other info that would help? 8). What would the estimated compression come to? What is the best way to start this project and with what phases,1 or 2 and years of these heads and blocks I would like the outcome to be around 185 crank hp or more if possible. And be a more mid range rpm. I don't require a high revving motor.

Ive got a 95 legacy LSi Sedan EJ22 with 170k on it...I finally have a subaru...any way..Ive got a few a Questions.....1. I would like it to be a lil sporty but I wanna keep it N/A...what parts would be good for it exhaust? Intake? MSD?.ECU? Cam?.ect....2..where do I find the front and rear bumper and the side skirts from a 97-98 legacy gt...3...the tranny is about 1/2 of an inch from the block..the owner b4 me said it went out he had it rebuilt an bought a new torque converter...and it would fit back in it...just curious what could cause that...wrong converter?..I have no clue..any help is great

So I've already got the EJ25, from my legacy, sourcing a 22 block won't be hard. Head gasket is tricky to me, where to modify it for oil lines ect. Also engine management, should I get a megasquirt? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149590-anyone-built-a-reverse-frankenmotor/ I read through this thread which is quite good except there's some things I diassagree with ej22t crank & rods -- same as the non turbo ej25 (NA) block halves. The whole point of this is to use the ej22 short block ej25 DOHC heads ('96 with hydro adjusters) -- should be able to just use my heads newer EJ25 flat top pistons -- Aren't my current pistons/ the 22's pistons sufficient? ej20g intake manifold with 440cc injectors -- One of the 2 manifold I have will be good, no? vf8 turbo (ej20g) ej22t exhaust (until I put the downpipe in) ej22t fuel pump 2002 WRX top mount IC ej22t bypass valve (I replaced with the TurboXS one) ej22t ECU & wiring harness. original ej25 harness/ECU is gone, and the ej22t ECU sits in it's place, and is all wired in, and I can check code like normal (ej22t way) -- I shouldn't have to use a 22 turbo block, can just use a normal block, almost the exact same. So the wiring harness mesh is moot then, right? Would absolutely love to do this build, but need to have all the parts before I do the biuld, and have as much of it pre assembled as I can as it's my dd. Thanks - H

I thought it time to share my full L series build - I had a thread in the welcome forum, but since writing this out recently I thought it a good time to move over here. Some of you will already know this vehicle... This is the short version I purchased Ruby Scoo from Yackandandah, VIC, Australia (google it!) in 2004 or 2005 for $500. What we didn't know was that the engine was toast - over heated to the point that one cylinder was cracked about halfway down. After some research I found that the EA82 engine came in EFI format, so went with one of these and had a steep learning curve into the operations of EFI systems. Pick a part became my best friend here! Problem was I lived over 1 hour away. After a year in the shed she was ready for rego. This is me learning some 4wd'n with a mate near Kangaroo Flat, Bendigo: From here I had a few mods done - welded rear diff. This was a good and bad mod as it gave the vehicle awesome point and shoot abilities but with the lack of lift I managed some damage to the underside of the body, I inverted my floor pans and didn't realise this for some time. In 2007 I roadtripped to WA with my brother with a "fresh" 9 month old rebuild that was going really well: SA/WA boarder: Perth: Hit a new milestone while I was there: And we had some fun too: On the way home we (read: my brother!) blew the side out of the plastic radiator end tank on a hot day drive home. We were stuck in Tintanara and were trucked home the next day. After sorting a temporary radiator it turned out that the engine was severely cooked. For 18 months I put up with a jerry-rigged carb engine over the MPFI wiring. It got me around while I sorted all the bits for my EJ22 conversion - again pick a part played a huge role in this conversion - this time I got all the bits I needed the before getting into the conversion. Cutting down the wiring was another steep learning curve and in hindsight quite easy to do, just need to know what you actually need and go from there. I didn't do the HG's on the EJ as I bench tested the engine and was happy with how it operated. When pulled from the yard it had 127xxxkms on the clock. Turned out the clutch was completely fried. All oil seals were replaced, cam belt replaced and I should have replaced the water pump - did it about a week after the conversion hit the road. Easiest way to do the Engine and gearbox - out from under: I cased an L series gearbox in a set of EJ front cases to avoid an adaptor plate and an EA clutch. This conversion is all EJ clutch and bolts straight up without issues: The initial test was a bit of fun in the paddock - I should've put the bonnet on though, it wasn't fun to clean! All fits in like it should be there. The L series should've come with the EJ from the factory, it's a great combination! Out at Robe, SA: After a chance purchase of a lifted L series, in one weekend the swap was done and Ruby Scoo grew to this: More fun, Otways, VIC: A few years down the track and a lot of searching I managed to track down a set of the infamous Scorpion 14 inch rims, these ones with the awesome general all rounder Wild Conqueror Super Trippers (can't get them anymore ): Robe, SA: Wyperfeld NP, VIC: Lerderderg SF, VIC: After two seasons at Mt Hotham and a 4wd'n trip with a "rally section" on the Dinner Plain Track south of the township I got Ruby Scoo airborne unintentionally. Not realising for some time but I did some extensive damage to the suspension mount on the LHS. Not ready to part with her I stripped her out and went to work between other things: While everything was reinstalled I added power windows, mirrors and central locking. That took a pot load more time than I anticipated and blew out the build time. I would say this took me 6 months over the summer period to sort out and get back on the road. Return to the road: Getting back into the thick of it: Mt Cole: Getting out in the High Country with the Subaru Club of Qld (offroad club, can't remember their official title) - most of these guys are online mates from ausubi: Basalt Knob South Tk before it was switchbacked: Back at Mt Hotham for another visit (Love this place!) New "trick" gearbox - L series AWD locking centre diff, front OBX (cheap!) LSD, 1.59:1 low range, low range oil feeders and 4.111:1 diff ratio (old box 3.7:1 stock ratio): Diff locking mechanism: This was an awesome mod - the diff ratio change has transformed the drive for the better. The ratio matches the tyre size the same as the foresters run so it's a tried and tested setup, just not really done in an L series in this fashion on a regular basis. I added a snorkel for added confidence during water crossings: This was 2013. For the christmas period we were planning another road trip to WA to catch up with some mates I made over there on the cruise in 2007. Unfortunately after finally getting my AC sorted the Head Gaskets let go. Not a bad run so I shouldn't complain - just the timing over the silly season slowed down the new parts arriving in a timely manner. But she's sorted again and running very well. First time I've had an EJ stripped down like this: Where I think the HGs let go, wasn't major but enough to run hot on a warm day. No damage resulted, money saved there Back together sporting a new radiator conversion (N14 pulsar) and new thermo fans - a good setup so far: Over Easter 2014 we ventured into new territory out at Walhalla in the foothills of the Vic Alps: First real good use of snorkel - Fulton's Creek Tk, Walhalla: Messing around, Fulton's Creek: Trig Track - 12 switchbacks! Loved this area and seriously cannot wait to get back out there! Last trip most recently was to McKillop's Bridge (very speccie!) and the general Snowy River NP, VIC: ^ Pics do not do this bridge justice, it's very high, very long and has been flooded over several times! I was with a "different" cohort for this trip with some mates in larger, "real" 4wds: Ruby Scoo held her own: Until I managed to blow 2nd gear coming off throttle on a down shift from third. Nothing harsh about it. From here it was a tow job, not fun! Once back on a decent track - logging truck track - we decided to see if I could manage third, using low range as another gear. This was done to avoid time delays, rocks flicking up and damaging the front of my vehicle and my newish windscreen. It was noisy in the box but it kept going, at the time I was kind of past the point of caring. After stopping for the others to catch up (I was rally style, they weren't!) we continued but I think it was too much, once the oil settled in the gearbox bits had moved. At walking pace I ended up locking up all four wheels. We were trailered from there, trailer came from Orbost. Then another type of towing occurred a week later: ^ These guys were great, they let me park up for a week in their yard very cheaply! Near M&D's, not quite "home" though: The gearbox came out at M&D's before I took the car home as I was itching to get it started. Once the box was stripped we found this damage: I've since sourced an SG forester gearbox for it's stronger internals as Subaru did a big overhaul on the 1st and 2nd gearsets in these boxes along with a few other things. My bench looks like this as I work through the little hurdles that are thrown my way: I've had to modify a few things along the way, the low range synchro hub being one of them: Latest modification hurdle is the woodruff key for the 5th gear as I want to use the 0.87 ratio I've got in the shed, not the SG's 0.78 as that's what I used to have and I wasn't too keen on it at cruise: That's where I'm at. Using Redback (Brumby - more to come on this addition to the family!) as the daily which is what I got her for, but I can't wait to have Ruby Scoo back on the road and 4wd'n again. I'm also working on some surface rust I've found since removing the gearbox, this is a slow process itself and work/family/social life is getting in the way too. Weekends are not at home at the moment I hope you've enjoyed reading and viewing the pics. While writing this and looking at the large number of pics I've got I've surprised myself just how many places I've been with Ruby Scoo. Many more pics if you want to view! She's currently knocking on 500k kms... I've had many great times out bush in this vehicle and I'm hoping there will be a number of years of more good times to come! Just have to get it back together and out of the shed!!! Regards Bennie

i need help really bad my engine in my 2006 legacy is shot due to a cracked head and i cant find any EJ253s any where iv read online that i could put a 2.2 in my car but i need to know from experts please help me?

Hey guys I picked up this Loyale back in August. so far Its been awesome I have took it beyond its limits numerous times its only let me down once (in the middle of a golf course, ) The power (or lack of) is getting to me so I will be doing an engine swap in the next few months,the engine is currently sitting in the garage ready to be worked I need to do the timing belt and seals. I am using a 1990 legacy as a donor car, if anybody is interested in parts not being used for the swap let me know (I have car full ) I would like to lift it eventually.

I have my flame suit on so here goes... I've searched for the past 4 hours on here for EJ22 to EJ20T swap threads and came up empty handed. I'm looking to swap an EJ20T from a WRX 02-05 into my 99 OBS with an EJ22 to bring her up to spec with how she was supposed to be imported here into the states before the bureaucraps got in the way! Need to find a build thread which outlines which components I need to grab from the other car. It's my understanding I would only need the Engine (duh), the exhaust components for turbo operation, and the ECM. Does the 99 OBS harness plug directly into the WRX ECM/Engine Harness or do i need to do a harness swap? I have a good line on an EJ20T longblock with a TD0520g turbo, but has rod knock which I can rebuild no problem, have a shop with lift and cherry picker and am not in a hurry so I can build the engine/exhaust etc off the car until ready for install. I am just trying to avoid making a big mistake from a technical oversight with compatibility or missing something obvious. Thanks for the help, and yes I'm sure there is a thread buried out there somewhere.

Is this normal wear for only 150 miles? Just finished swapping this engine, replacing a profusely leaking oil pump and noticed this. Don't know much about the health of this motor. Is this normal?

Hello Folks - I am looking for some step by step help with repairing a '97 EJ22 head gasket in car. What I know so far... 1. Drain oil and coolant 2. Remove spark plug/alternator/starter wires etc. 3. Remove intake manifold and attached hoses 4. Remove external belts/pulleys 5. Remove timing belt cover, belt, pulleys 6. Remove heads (Valve covers stay on) 7. Resurface heads, OEM/felpro gaskets only, specific torquing procedure I am concerned with the timing belt removal and re-installation (I understand the '97 is an interference engine). Are there other points of particular concern? I know a few of you on here are very familiar with these engines (grossgary, MilesFox, Gloyale, others I'm sure) and have said it's probably among the easiest subie head gaskets to do. I figure the learning has to start somewhere. Background on the car: Bought a '97 legacy wagon with a new head gasket at 123k miles. 12k miles later it overheated and stalled out (I wasn't driving), lots of oil in coolant, no combustion gasses detected, no coolant visible in oil. Car still ran, I was stranded, so had a shop take a look, top off coolant, drove 300 miles home. Temps were stable all the way, but it's idling a bit rough. Many thanks!

Hey all, I finished a Frankenmotor build about a month ago. I used the short block out of a '96 OB, and the heads from a '96 Legacy. I surfaced the heads on my own via the flat board/sandpaper method. I used .056" thick Cometic MLS headgasket with their hybrid pattern. This is my third HG replace dealing with a Subaru motor, and I have other background experience with Toyota motors. I'm just trying to convey that I'm not unfamiliar with these things, nor to say that I'm an expert. I have found coolant seeping from the passenger-side head upon start up. It'll seep out onto the exhaust and smoke. After running to temperature/driving, the seepage stops and all is dry underneath. I have not seen any white smoke from out of the tailpipe; usage from the over-flow tank is not unreasonable. I followed the directions for headbolt tightening via the FSM. Doing this before, I've yet to see this seepage. But I was also using OEM headgaskets from Subaru. The MLS HG was pretty beefy. The rings surrounding the combustion chambers were aggressive. I've talked with some big-power-turbo Subaru enthusiasts, and they've mentioned different specifics for the torque. They use 30-60-90ft-lbs (I believe those were the numbers they referenced...) increment increases (first tightening is 30ft-lbs, second go around 60ft-lbs...). Is it possible that the FSM procedure doesn't squeeze the MLS HG enough? Can I safely tighten the head bolts now? Say another 25-45 degrees? Or is there an torque end-value that is actually achieved via the FSM process? Or is this a moot point, and I should be preparing for a HG replacement? I watch my gauges and fluids religiously, so I know that I could probably get away with driving it more without overheating. Any advice will be appreciated. Greg

Hey all. I keep finding JDM EJ22 motors on Ebay out of Legacy LSi's with about 40k on the clock. I'm wondering if there are marked differences between USDM and JDM blocks that would make parts hard to find? Thinking this could be a great candidate motor for a swap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-98-SUBARU-LEGACY-2-2L-ENGINE-JDM-EJ22-LEGACY-LSi-Engine-EJ22-Automatic-4wd-/371159568581?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item566ad590c5&vxp=mtr Years available generally look to be from 94-98. Thanks! W