Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'legacy'.
-
I recently bought a Subaru, and on the way home from driving it, I felt an odd wobble coming from what I thought was the back right wheel. It shook the whole rear of the car, but eventually tapered off. The wobble returned on higher speeds (65-75mph). I thought they were just the junk tires on them, but was diagnosing some other things at the shop and am lead to believe it's a bad drive shaft going into the rear differential. The car is an automatic, and I noticed it also kicks when shifting as it gets up to speed, especially up hills. I jacked the car up on all fours and turned it on, put it in drive and tried to replicate the sound. It's like a clanking sound. The one forum I found on this type of stuff was this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128947-loud-banging-noise-felt-vibration-from-tunnel-area/ but before I try all of their troubleshooting I was going to see if anyone could pick out the sound first. Is the clanking sound happening because the car is moving with no force against the tranny, and it's in a sense, looser? Or is it the U-Joints making the noise because they're worn? Any help would be appreciated, I like this forum a lot and could see myself learning a lot from you guys, any help is appreciated! Thanks, Robert Suby.wmv -
Hi all, first time posting, seems like a great community. The problem: I have a 2001 Subaru legacy L. It has 190K on it, mostly highway miles. It needs its head gaskets done, but I just took it into a shop and the repairman said it wasn't looking too bad, they were seeping but not leaking. Driving home from work yesterday it started to overheat for the first time, temperature gauge got up to H but did not redline. Managed to coast pretty much all the way home (downhill) and let it sit in my driveway for awhile. Checked the oil and coolant levels and they both appear to be fine. Oil is maybe a tad high (slightly above F). Took off the radiator cap (with engine cool) and it bubbled and then was still. It seems like there are little copper flecks in there, not sure what those are from or what they indicate. Don't seem to see any of the notorious white sludge in my coolant that would indicate that the head gaskets have blown. Recently (May) replaced the radiator and thermostat, so I wouldn't think those would be the problem, although I'm not too sure on the longevity of thermostats. Looking for some help on diagnosing the problem! Might just be time to go get the head gaskets done? Thanks for any help! -
I just bought a 2003 Legacy L on the 7th and I noticed the gauge cluster lights do not work but the clock and odometer do work and when I turn on the headlights or parking lights the lights in them dim, I have checked the Illumination fuse. The HVAC lighting works, no lighting in any door switches, the fuel low light does not work unless it was not low enough to come on. -
Hi what is the confirmed type of oil needed to be used with a 2015 Subaru Legacy 3.6R? I rolled into Valvoline instant oil change and was sold MaxLife Oil Change with Valvoline Oil Filter VO113 & Valvoline 5W30 MaxLife Oil API SN and 6 guarts synthetic. but i am looking at a chart showing the 4-cylinder does synthetic but the 3.6R that i have does conventional with a 6k mile interval. which one is right? i dont want to waste $70 on synthetic oil and go 10k miles if it isnt right or if its going to hurt the car. thanks dave -
Hi all, I bought a 1990 Legacy wagon from a frustrated former owner who couldn't get it to keep running. I replaced the fuel pump and FP relay (kinda challenging to reach) and it acted much better, but still dies occasionally. I figured out that the fuel pump circuit would stop powering the fuel pump for some reason and the POWER light for the AT would start flashing. So I straight wired the fuel pump with a fused circuit and it ran better, but she still dies although not as often. As Grandpaw said "Beer and patience conquers anything". I have found out that bykeeping the AT in manual mode and keeping the RPMs above 2100 it seems to keep running. It kills my gas mileage but it's better than the 6MPG Ford F250 and this techniquedoesn't work on the back roads I have to run often. I'm suspecting the TPS and will test it according to the Chilton manual this evening. Please let me know your thoughts and thanks in advance. -
My legacy brighton doesn't have a tachometer. So I went to pick and pull and pulled a cluster out from another vehicle with a tachometer. I installed it and everything seemed to go okay until I drove home and had no speedometer. So I pulled my old speedometer out (thinking it was a loose connection in the back) and switched it with my new one. The speedo worked but now the tach did not. I'm wondering what the problem is with the wiring? Do I need to wire the tach through the speedo? Or should I try putting the tach in my old cluster?- 2 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Install
- Tachometer
- (and 8 more)
-
Purchase a 95 legacy for my son for 300 bucks. Was told the clutch is gone. I cannot engage the gears (with the engine running), but can with the engine shutoff. Did make some funky sounds when I was messing with it...so not sure if it was partially in gear. We plan to pull the engine and replace the clutch and lots of other seals, etc. Is there any way you guys could think of to test the transmission to make sure it is ok? I really don't want to bolt the engine back up to find out that the gearbox is rubbish. My thoughts: 1) Changing the gearbox oil. This is good PM anyway but would be a good way to look for any signs of metal/evil in the oil. 2) Place car on jackstands once engine is removed...place in gear and rotate tires. Make sure input shaft is turning and no evil sounds are occuring. 3) Prayer Let me know if you have any other ideas / or if my ideas are not sound. Thanks in advance. Tom -
I am swapping cruise control into an '01 Legacy L / Brighton, and I need some help troubleshooting the completed install. What I've done so far: - Install cruise main switch, steering wheel controls, actuator and cruise computer - Wire cruise actuator through firewall to cruise computer - Wire cruise computer to all respective wires in the vehicle according to the wiring diagram (this was quite a procedure) - Wired in new 4-wire brake and clutch pedal switches and confirmed it has continuity when no pedals are pressed - Tested and verified all switches, bulbs, ignition power sources, etc - Then I plugged in the cruise module and tried it out, and the light on the cruise control main switch will not come on when I press it (I'm assuming it means 'enable the cruise system'). - I have checked fuse 18 and 15, and backprobed all points from the switch and the bulbs to check that the module genuinely isn't responding, but is otherwise powered. My issue is as follows: The cruise enable switch on the dash does not light up when pressed. Bulb works, switch works, power goes to the cruise module, what else do I check?? UPDATE The cruise module wasn't enabling because the sub-switch output to pin 10 of the cruise module was wired at connector B68 by wire-color and not by pin number. On my particular vehicle (Legacy Brighton L), the wire colors on the steering-wheel side of that harness are incorrect and/or mislabeled in either the vehicle or the wiring diagram. Doing this by pin number means that the cruise module now powers on, and the correct 12v signal is seen at the module when the set, resume and cancel buttons are operated, respectively. The issue now is that it will not set cruise, when driving over 40km/h - the switches do not do anything. I need to troubleshoot whether something is inhibiting the cruise system from setting, or whether it is trying to set the cruise, but the actuator is not working. Any ideas are welcome. Please let me know what you guys think is the best next-step to take to get this working. Some photos of the progress Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4 Image 5 -
I am currently swapping an ej22 out of a 1992 legacy into my 1990 Loyale. Everything is done except the wiring. i got my harness from SJR, i currently have the 3 yellow wires labeled hot in run and start and hot at all times wired directly to the battery (Just temporarily). the black and red wire labeled fuel pump is wired to the blue and white wire from the old fuel pump relay ( the fuel pump was working but its not anymore) the alternator is wired up to the original wires from the vehicle. (The charge light was flashing while cranking but its not anymore) the wires labeled starter, trans, coolant, fan. radiator, select monitor, oil pressure, ac, check engine, and tach are not currently connected to anything my question is with this current setup is there a way to get it started it currently cranks over fine and the fuel pump was pumping but there is no spark im a little lost at why there is no spark and what happened to the fuel pump i know grounding could be an issue but i don't really know where to start, does the ecu need to be grounded and if so how also i don't know if there is a minimum voltage the battery needs to get everything going it currently has 12.36 volts i have read through several other peoples threads including numbchux, but im running out of things to try, the engine ran fine right before we pulled in out of the donor vehicle i suck at electrical so any help is greatly appreciated thanks
-
My 98 Legacy has a constant ringing noise coming from the engine, which becomes louder as the RPMs rise. I've attached a video of the noise at idle; I suspect it is from the pulleys, but I'd like a second opinion. is the video. -
Anyone have a fix for this issue that these seem to have? My passenger side I wiggle the wires a little and it comes on the drivers side goes out. I just got the car but I had this issue on my 01 legacy gt. I'm going to try contact cleaner and that gel stuff they try to sell you at the store. -
Hello. So my friend did an engine swap on his 1990 Subaru Legacy. During the change the shaft came out of the torque converter. Now, when we start the car there is a clunking kind of noise. Any suggestions on what can be causing that noise or how to fix it would be so helpful. Are there any spline alignments in the engine? -
While putting the engine into my '01 Forester 4EAT I failed to properly seat the TC and ended up damaging the pump in the auto trans. I've been looking at various options. Namely: either taking the pump apart and fixing it or replacing the pump, or putting another transmission into it. I bought a used '98 Forester trans (TZ103ZJ1AA-L1) without realizing that it was (mostly?) incompatible. I could exchange the '98 Forester transmission for one out of a '00 Outback Wagon. Are they compatible? I know the final drive ratios are the same and the transmission will likely bolt right up to the engine, but what about the electronics? Will the driveshaft from my Forester fit with the OBW trans? Will my Forester starter fit on the OBW trans? Are the gear ratios similar? How will the OBW trans in the Forester affect things like the speedo reading accurately? The information: '01 Forester 4EAT with about 174k (Trans replaced at 89k) Trans # TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8 '00 Outback Wagon (milage unknown. Reason for ending up in the junkyard unknown, but it wasn't a collision) Trans # TZ1A4ZCABA I'd hate to go through the trouble of getting the Outback transmission only to find out it won't work in my Forester. Any help is greatly appreciated! -
Hello, As per bio I'm roadtripping through North America in my 1999 Legacy Outback. When I was in British Columbia, the seat heaters were really useful early in the mornings, and only came on when I switched them on. Now I'm in New Mexico, they've decided to stay on all the time and it's really not ideal! Because I don't need seat heat for now, I'm happy just to disable it. Sadly, per the manual, the same fuse guards the seat heaters *and* the cigarette lighter/accessory socket, which I don't want to lose the use of. I found connections under the seat (see pic) but am not sure which one to pull - I guess one is the heater power and the other is the switch and/or a feedback to a thermostat. Can I just pull both? Will the disconnect confuse and then damage any relays &c? Alternator burnt out in Cali a few weeks back (middle of the PCH!) so I'm slightly cautious on the electrics, perhaps needlessly. Further on, any ideas why the switch no longer controls the heater would be most welcome. Thanks, from someone who's backside is slowly broiling! // Tom PS: For pointless conjecture, why on earth wire the heaters and the socket together when there are two empty spaces in the same fuse rack??
-
I have a 2002 Legacy Wagon with a bad crank bearing. Has 290k miles and had a HG at 218k. What year 2.2 engine will swap easily and any suggestions as to where to find a good 2.2 engine? Love this car and don't want to part with if possible. -
Hey y'all, about to do a EJ22 swap into my Loyale,with the EA82 transmission. I have the re-drilled EA82 flywheel and i'm going to use the XT6 pressure plate and clutch disk(Correct?) my question is whether i should use the XT6 release bearing or an EA82 one?
-
So, I just got my derby car. 92 matte black legacy, fwd ej22. Ej22 will go into my impreza, and ej18 into the legacy, because why not That is after I get it running. But now to the title, I need design ideas. The number will be 555. But the paint scheme is where I have debate. My ideas were 1: Keep it 2: WRC colors 3: A tribute to the bumblebeasts, radioactive yellow with the black stripe, as a shoutout to all the help JeZek has given so many of us 4. Fighter jet open mouth with olive drab green This is the car, got it for $200, couldn't not get it. Pic in the p/o driveway. Kid wasn't happy when he found out what I'm using it for, lol Help me design it! -
Hello USMB Members! We recently received some interest in our EJ - EA Oil Adapter lines and would like to do a special deal with the USMB community! You can view our EJ2EA results here If members (on this forum specifically) generate enough interest for this product, we would be happy to not only restock them, but also give a great deal on the price! (To everyone who contacts me on USMB). If anyone interested would shoot me a PM or post on this thread so I can get a head count, I'd be happy to get the order going so we can send them out ASAP! We should be updating them on our website soon (NWRallySports.com). Thanks and hope you like our products! -NWRS
-
Getting ready to change the oil for the first time on our own (the garage I bought it at did it for free the first time) and we are confused on the .1 quart. How much is .1 quart or can we just do 5 quarts? -
Hello... been a while, but my Subie's have all be doing pretty well! My brother is having an issue with his 97 Legacy GT, 2.5, auto, AWD. It has around 140k, I'm guess.... Here's what's been tried.... Thermostat (2X's) New radiator New water pump (with timing belt job) Here's what it continues to do. Car will run fine and cool for days or weeks... no prob. Then overheat unexpectedly under normal driving conditions. Up and down hills, in town, no major traffic. My brother pulls over quickly, as the temp will shoot up rapidly. Upon opening the hood, the jug is full to overflowing. As it cools, it will eventually (fairly quickly) suck back into the radiator and/or engine, in a matter of a few seconds to half a minute, leaving the jug empty, which he then refills. Sometimes, the car can then be run again with no problems... other times it may repeat itself a few times before he can drive it staying cool. There is no discoloration or frothiness to the fluid.... nice, green coolant. The only thing not yet changed is the radiator cap itself, though that suggestion was met with skepticism from the mechanics looking at the car. I had that be the issue on one of my '95's a while back. Thoughts? Thanks! He is trying to decide whether to fix the old boy or not, and any help would be appreciated! Mike -
I was installing my custom seat covers on my 2014 Legacy. I pulled the middle seat belt for the back seat around the seat to get it out of my way and then the darn thing locked tight and I can't get it to budge. I have no play in it at all. I can't push my back seats back into place for the seat belt. Headrests were already removed. Before I take it to a garage and probably have the seats removed, any suggestions???
-
bought a used 96 subaru legacy outback 300000 miles. when i bought it i noticed that when i turn the key to start i would hear a buzz from a relay under the dash, i would have to turn the key 2-3 more times before the car turned over. somedays it starts right up. i found the relay (starter relay) and replaced it. still does it. later i replaced the stereo and unhooked the battery to do so, and the keyless entry unit started making weird clicking sounds. not knowing it was also the anti-thief unti i just unplugged it and went on my way. same starting issue. after work the other day, i got in and tried to start the car and nothing. over and over again no crack. checked power at relay, replaced starter same thing. battery is good, finally found online to take the power lock fuse out after resetting the keyless entry unit and it started. ran it like that for a few days. now it wont start at all. the check engine light has been on since ive owned it. code say P0135 (O2 sensor) P0304 (cylinder 4 missfire) P0507 (idle air control) and ABS light is on. today after work i got in it and it will not start. we've tried everything. Need help! (im new to forums so please be easy one me veterans) ask any question. thanks -
I have a 1999 Legacy GT Limited (2.5 DOHC) and would like to know if a 2001-2005 EJ25D 2.5(DOHC) engine/tranny will work. The guy told me I would need to use my intake/EGR otherwise it would be fine. Thoughts or comments? Thanks! -
So I recently have found myself purchasing a 1997 Subaru Legacy L. I've never had a Subaru before always wanted one but could never afford one....or so I thought. For a whole 650$ I found my Subaru on Craig's list and started the wonderful journey of my project in motion. She is a 97 legacy L with the 2.2L 4cyl and I purchased her at 238xxx she's got 2425xx on her now and I adore it. At 3400 lbs her lol 2.2 puts out 160hp (obviously many people know this herejust stating what ice learned and done) I've replaced both struts in the rear with vsv struts off a 97 legacy GT AS WELL as a fuel sending unit from the same car. Pick and pull has been my friend for this. I need a new windshield front shocks and struts fix front differential tires and I'm sure much more. I've also have to get a rear bumper as I bought it without the bumper and a hitch attached I've contemplated doing an sti swap but not sure what I need. I've read I need an ECU motor rear differential and tranny along with wiring harness and clutch to do a manual tranny. I need some education and help with her. My name is weyland and this is my Subaru story. Any help and advice would bee greatful
-
Hello, this is my first time posting here and I'm looking to finally have my own Subaru. Background is as follows: -Learned to drive in my dad's Subaru Bajas (he owned three over the years) -Got a 99 Ford Contour as my first car. Was alright, but had problems. -When I was planning to sell the Contour, I was trying to find a Subaru, but couldn't find one in my price range, so I gave up and tried Volkswagen in the form of an '03 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition (sport suspension and a 1.8L turbocharged engine.) -I'm not a trained mechanic in any way. I'm teaching myself from working on my Jetta and Passat (long story as to why I own two Volkswagens) I was originally planning to turn my Jetta into an all-wheel drive car by importing a parts car in the form of a V6 4motion Bora (name for the fourth generation Jetta in other parts of the world) I've looked at various cars and it seems like Subaru has most of what I'm looking for and appear to be more willing to recieve the things that they don't have that I want, so I want to finally try again at buying a Subaru. The problem is, I don't know which Subaru I should look at. The H6 fascinates me and owning a two Volkswagens with turbocharged engines has me hooked on boost for life. I plan to buy a car that has an H6 OR a turbocharger and swap/add the other one so I can have both. What I'm looking for: -All wheel drive -Turbocharged -Comfortable -H6 engine -DIY friendly I've got it narrowed down to three and have some questions about each. Third generation Legacy sedan: -How is leg room in the back seats? Is it better than a 99.5-05 Volkswagen Jetta? I can't find a third generation Legacy sedan for sale in my area to find out. -If I got this route, I am planning to swap an H6 into this at some point. How much time and money would I likely need to spend on parts other than the engine itself to do this? (Applies to Baja as well) SVX: -How is the EG33 as far as engine reliability and maintenance costs? Are there any common and/or major issues I should be made aware of before buying one? (I know of the transmission issues and have plans for this) -What is a good price to pay for one? I don't mind buying a fixer-upper as long as the frame and body panels are intact and rust-free. -If I want to put some form of forced induction in at some point, how much is it likely to cost me? -Is there anyone in or around Columbus, Ohio who has one that would be willing to let me see it in person and possibly ride (not drive) in it? Baja: (Not as many questions here because of the front-end similarities between the Baja and Legacy and I've been in/drove a Baja before) -I'm aware of the head gasket issues in this car's engine, it claimed my dad's second Baja. Is there anything that can be done to prevent this issue? (Until I can swap the engine out entirely) -Does the Baja turbo have the same head gasket issues? -Are there any significant differences in the engine bay of this car compared to the Legacy/Outback of its time? Questions for all three: -Are these cars more DIY friendly than early 2000's Volkswagens? Everyone tells me that VW is a pain to work on, but these haven't been that hard for me. From what I've seen, Subarus look easier to work on, but I would rather hear it from someone who has worked on them. -How hard is it to find parts for each of these? -If I buy one that has a turbo stock, how many of the turbo-related parts would be able to carry over to turbocharge and H6? -If I were to H6 swap a car, which H6 engines would you recommend? I'm looking for one that will be able to readily swap into a Legacy or Baja that can handle some boost and other modifications.
