Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Subaru'.
-
My 03 Impreza rs recently blew its 2.5l sohc engine. My question is, would I be able to direct swap a ej254 Dohc 2.5l engine into my car without having to buy a new wiring harness, exhaust, ecu, etc? -
I have a 2003 2.5l Impreza rs that recently blew its sohc ej25 engine. Would I be able to direct swap a 2.5l ej254 dohc engine without having a buy a new wiring harness, exhaust, sensors, etc?
-
Hey all, I have an 86 subaru gl that needs new front wheel hubs and bearings but am having a hard time sourcing them (the hubs, the bearings seem easier to locate). I live on Whidbey Island and am hoping you all might have some ideas of who I can talk to/where I can find some 4x4 hubs that will work in the seattle area/reasonably close. Thanks for your help! -
Hey all, I have an 86 subaru gl that needs new front wheel hubs and bearings but am having a hard time sourcing them (the hubs, the bearings seem easier to locate). I live on Whidbey Island and am hoping you all might have some ideas of who I can talk to/where I can find some 4x4 hubs that will work in the seattle area/reasonably close. Thanks for your help!
-
I have a problem when I try to accelerate, the engine bogs down like it is not getting enough gas or something. If I slowly depress the pedal the engine does speed up but when put under load, it bogs down again. I have been fighting this on and off for a few weeks now. I had initially thought it was bad gas so when I worked through a tank or two it seemed to return to normal for a time. However it has returned. I added SeaFoam to the tank but it has not resolved the problem. I can find no vacuum leaks and the car idles normal, no skipping or misfiring. I can't imagine it is bad gas at this point. I looked on the formums before posting and did find another person with a similar issue in a 89 wagon and his was a coil issue. Could this be what is happening with mine?
-
o/ I tried a bit of searching before hand and didn't come up with anything similar to my problem, and NASIOC didn't have much help other that the direction to this site. (Which I'm ecstatic about.) I bought a 1985 GL from my in-laws, I found the car a year ago and was about to buy it when they said they needed it more, so I let them snatch it up with the intent of buying it from them later on. Well, that time has come and now it's mine. They drove it maybe 2,000 miles in the year they owned it and did improper maintenance. Now it's got a dead lifter and 2 blown head gaskets. I'm not very concerned about those two issues, they're easy fix's for me. I am however concerned with my 4WD system. FWD works perfectly, it'll even do a one tire fire if I'm not easy on the peddle. 4hi it makes a ton of gearbox noise from the center diff, and it feels like one of the rear wheels locks up and just drags, all while going straight, I haven't dared to turn. 4lo makes the same noise however it seems to work just fine. I haven't really tried 4lo that much due to the fear of it breaking on dry pavement. The weirdest part of all this, is it only goes back in 2wd if I'm going in reverse. It refuses to go back while moving forward. If you've got idea's before I start cracking the box's open, I'm all ears.
-
hey guys ive been looking at a ton of forums for bits and pieces of the info i need but cant quite make it 100% i have myself the 2003 baja non turbo and its an automatic sadly. ive been sitting on a 5 speed that i cant seem to get sold so i was considering swapping it into my baja. now i have the brake cluster (clutch,brake,booster) the flywheel a clutch and pressure plate the tranny itself the driveshaft. basically everything. now my issue lies on the wiring,rear end, and ecu. so my questions is would i need to splice wires in do i need the ecu and i think my rear is 4.44 but im not 100% would a 4.11 rear from another subie bolt right in? any other pointers would be great. im quite confident in my ability to do the swap i just dont want to get it apart and realize i need something completely random. photos just of the things ive got.
-
Hey everyone, Recently, I got back from a holiday and had my 89'GL sitting there for a month. It got driven a couple of times, but was dead when I got home. I replaced the spark plugs and she was up and running. Ever since though, it's ran like crap. Shakes with a very low idle, back fires when changing gears/de-accelerating and has bad fuel economy. I came to think it could just be time for a timing service. I have all the gear, new water pump (while I'm down there), timing light, compression kit etc and know how to test each thing. However, I'm just confused as to what order each part should be tested in? Disty, Ignition, Belt, Carbu idle speed? Cheers all! Hayden
-
G'day everybody, First I'd just like to say , Great site, I have visited a couple of times over the past few weeks and found some really good info and advice from members helping others throughout these posts. Ok, so how did I get here. Well about a month ago I raced to an advertised 1998 Outback wagon, the pics showed quite a tidy car at about 1/3 to 1/4 of potential market value but the ad read that the owner thought it may have a blocked radiator. As soon as I arrive he comes out with the keys and then says he'd just come out to start it before I got there but it wouldn't start, he didn't know why and I sensed he was starting to play Possum and saying maybe because he'd reversed it onto the lawn where it was parked, slight incline nose down and wasn't sure where the fuel pickup was located as a possible reason for not starting. As I looked over the rest of the car he said it was running earlier that day, as he was flushing radiator and added fresh coolant, and apparently drove it to its current position. Supposedly it had overheated about a week prior but monitored since then and only just temp higher than normal but not critical. So one mans trash comes a Pir8s Treasure even though I knew he was playing possum and new more about it than he was making out, I was confident that I will be able to get it running still well under market value and end up with a good vehicle. Now I will continue in another forum and let you know where its at and put the feelers out for some of that good advice I mentioned earlier-
- 1
-
-
- Pir8
- Western Australia
- (and 8 more)
-
Hey gang, So my '89 DL wagon has recently begun idling very low. It's a new issue, which as far as I can tell began after taking her for a bit of muddy time. However, unfortunately, I cannot be certain about that, as I only noticed the low idle a few days after. I don't know how many RPM she's idling at as there's no tacho, but it's low enough to be rather rough, and also the engine has cut out several times during driving. You know, pulling up to the lights, put the clutch in, engine goes back to idle, oh no! idles down too low, stalls. Bye bye power steering, bye bye assisted brakes. It's a little concerning for me, particularly as one of the first times she carked it like this was going around a roundabout! Anyway, I think I need the to find the Idle adjuster screw. I've had quite the trawl to see if I can find a resource that'll help me positively identify it, but no such luck so far. I'm posting here as this morning I found out that the screw I'd been playing with thinking it was the idle adjust was, in fact, the throttle stop screw. Oops! Can someone please post some pictures, to help me find this little guy? '89 DL, Hitachi carb, Australian edition! Thanks in advance team!
-
So i have a 1992 loyale, i replaced the head gaskets last winter. and im starting to get scared that im gonna have to tear it apart again. It leaks very slowly from the camshaft housing and valve cover, and has a tick when the motor is cold. My question is should i grow a pair, rip it apart and fix it or should i look at other options?
-
Hey guys need some guidance here. I own a 99 subaru forester s and the windshield wipers don't work properly. The wipers Park to far both ways so they slam into the edge of the window on both the bottom and side. They do not do this everytime they go up and down but often. And each time they go in their rotation they stop at different points on the windshield. This also only happens when the windshield is wet. If dry the wipers stop normally maybe even a bit not far enough. The more wet the windshield is the more the wipers slap against the edges of the window. Ive already take off the panel to inspect the wiper linkage and cannot find any issues with it. The arms have no issues either and the arms lock into place when bolted on as well. What else could be the issue? Anyone else had similar issues? I'd be very appreciative if someone could share some expertise on this topic and move me in the proper direction to fixing the issue. Thanks -
I own a 99 subaru forester s and am in need of a solution to my worn out seats. I have the beige leather heated seats in the car and the front seats have cracking and tears in them. What can I do? I've seen leather repair kits but for the matching dye and everything it's 70+ dollars and I'm skeptical about the results. Is their any way I could get replacement oem seats for the car or is there any good aftermarket seats out there that would fit and match nicely? I'm not looking for race bucket seats just some comfortable daily driving seats. Any suggestions are appreciated
-
Does anyone know what the ECS light is on the dash? I recently did a weber swap on my 1984 Subaru DL. Var runs better and stringer than ever. My only concern is that afther a while of running it (15 minues or so) a ECS light comes on. Is this anything serious what could it be and how do i get rid of it. I never had any lights come on before the swap. Thanks
-
Hi guys, I'm new here and will definitely stay active. Recently bought a 89' Leone Wagon, called L Series over here in Australia and absolutely loving it for my daily drive. I'm trying to restore it as much as I can so I'll keep everyone updated with progress pictures! I'm in need of new tyres, and saw this wagon (NOTE: Not my car), and want these exact same tyres. Anyone have an idea on the exact size of them? I'm currently rolling on 13" rims. Thanks in advance!
-
Hi All, I was referred here from the CarTalk forum to seek advice on my to-be-crippled 2007 Forester. I'm the third owner of the vehicle, and the used dealer that I bought it from did a number of services to it before I purchased it, including new head gaskets. Well, his have started to fail now, and the Subaru specialist in town here has quoted me $2k for parts&labor. One person on the CarTalk forum suggested that it may be cheaper at a dealer, so some feedback on this would be appreciated -- is this a fair quote? The other thing I'm thinking about is selling the car, as I've been getting the P0420 engine code on and off for the past year now, and don't want to buy a new cat converter. How much is a fair price if I were to sell this to a dealer, and if I'm selling it privately? The car has 131k miles, a new radiator, all belts/hoses in good shape. Thanks so much! Ryan -
Hey subaru forester community I need some help! I have a 1999 subaru forester s in good condition but I'm recently having some issues with the clutch. I've only had the car for about 8,000 miles and when I bought the car I noticed the catch point was rather high on the car but I didn't notice any signs of the clutch slipping/going out. Recently it seems the clutch is slipping and in need of replacement but i need a proper way to confirm this theory before I dump money into it. I was told that if I can in second gear on a flat road start from a stop with out stalling and with my foot of the gas it ment the clutch was bad. I tried this test and I could in fact get the car rolling rather easy by just slowly releasing the clutch. Not sure if this is valid test though? Additionally I'm curious if it is possible if the high catch point is normal for an oem subaru forester clutch and if its safely adjustable so I can make the catch point almost on the floor either on my current clutch or a replacement. Also how I could do this? Thanks for any help I can get; theese forums rock!
-
Just recently came a fault code on a 2013 subaru impreza P2090 "B Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low Bank 1" Can any one point me in the right direction. -
I have a 91 Legacy wagon and I purchased a new battery in March. After purchasing the new battery I drove the car daily for awhile, but about 2 weeks ago I stopped driving it and it was sitting for about 4 or 5 days. After those 4 or 5 days I tried to start it again and it would not start and none of the lights would come on either. I do know that one of the car's back doors will not close properly, and this causes a very small dashboard light to remain lit constantly when the battery is charged. Could it be that this very small light caused the battery to drain over time? I am guessing that doing a jump start will recharge the battery at this point since the battery is brand new. But do you think that small dashboard light is what caused the battery to die in the first place? Do you think it will eventually die again due to this light even if I am able to get it started by jumping it? If so, is there an easy way to disable this dashboard light without having an effect on the vehicle? I had planned to sell the vehicle since I was no longer using it, but this may not be a possibility unless I can get it started by jumping it. Even then, I would hate for the person who purchased it to have the battery die on them for any reason like it did on me. -
Got a good deal on this 99 legacy, has a 2.2 (hole in the block) and a 4eat. want to go lower (on the cheap), but first i need to find a 2.2 or 2.5 short block for a reasonable price. Not much to see here yet, but it will hopefully have either an n/a frankenmotor or a turbo 2.2 here soon, as well as an option for full manual mode on the 4eat. -
For at least a few months I have had this popping sound coming from what sounds like is inside the dash after decelerating from highway speeds. I am hoping that someone has heard this before or can help me pinpoint cause. I'd like to fix it if possible or at least know that something critical is failing or going to leave me stranded. This is a 1993 Subaru Impreza Wagon/Hatchback and has an EJ18 1.8L SOHC engine with manual transmission, AWD, and no ABS. This sound only occurs after the car as warmed up (it is silent when cold), after driving at 50+ mph for at least a few minutes, and then decelerating and driving around slower. Here is a video where you can hear the noise I am talking about: This video has the driving around cut out. This is after I have driven probably 5 miles at 55 mph and then slowed down into a subdivision. You will notice that it starts making a popping noise which sounds like it is somewhere in the middle of the dash. This is noticeable after getting off the highway but becomes even more noticeable once I slow down further from 35 mph to 20 mph. During the course of this video, I move the camera around between the drivers side and passenger side under the dash, and the on top of the dash. This noise is noticeably louder if there is a bigger difference in speed. Example: 70 mph freeway to an almost stop off an exit. This sound does not exist when the car is completely still. Or if it does, there are only one or two pops and then it stops. You will notice that the noise is not rhythmic and fairly random. I do not believe this is a problem with a engine rotating part, otherwise the sound would exist when revving the car in neutral; which it does not. This video was taken over a month ago and the noise has become louder/more severe when it occurs. This sound started somewhere around the time after I replaced timing belt (and other regular replacement parts normally done at this time), water pump, thermostat, flushed the cooling system and added brand new coolant. This may or may not be related. Has anyone heard anything like this before? Any hypothesis? Is my car dying a slow painful death? Thanks in advance! -
I have a 91 Legacy wagon which constantly has issues with starting. Normally if it has been sitting for a few hours without being driven then it will start up just fine, but if I drive it somewhere and then turn it off and try starting it again shortly afterwards, it will not stay started. The only way I have found to make it stay started when I am having trouble is to press on the accelerator as I am starting it, and then I have to leave my foot on the accelerator for a few minutes to keep the car from turning off again. I recently got a new battery, had the alternator checked (it was said to be fine), new fuel pump, ecm repaired, fuel intake system cleaned and new fuel filter, new air control valve, and plenty of other repairs along with it. Everything is perfectly fine with the car as far as I can tell, so unless there is something else that someone can think of which may be causing the issues I am having, then I have no idea what could be wrong other than it is simply an old car and that alone could be causing problems. I have already put over $1,500 worth of work into this vehicle since the problems started, and I am not ready to try anything else unless it is cheap or easy. Can anyone can suggest anything that I can possibly try to fix the problem which may be cheap or easy to do? Aside from that I will probably unfortunately just have to cut my losses and get rid of the car. The air intake hose was replaced in October, so I doubt if that is the issue even though it sounds like a likely culprit.
-
Both codes 34 and 35 are flashing on the LED Under the steering column. Most of what I find online supports the same information that it is the two components or systems I have listed in the title. I am capable of changing things on vehicles, and usually there is a wealth of information, but for some reason not mine. Is there a clear demonstration video or a list of how to diagnose why there may be a malfunction in the solenoid/ system? I would hope I can change the part myself, provided access is not too complicated. Also How can I tell if the air charge sensor is malfunctioning versus the rest of the circuit? I am having a difficult time clearly identifying these components under the hood. the more detail the better. I am hoping to find a manual specific to this vehicle without the ambiguities that a manual covering different models might have. -
Hi All, We've just created an in-depth tutorial on changing the oil on your EJ201 2007 Subaru Impreza. We thought the members of USMB would find it useful. Tools Required Socket Set Flathead Screwdriver (To remove clips) Trolley Jack and Axle Stands Oil Pan See the guide in full here! -
Hello everyone. I'm interested in the Subaru XT and I have found a 1986 fixer upper by me, but I had some questions. Should I look for anything specific that likes to go on these cars, other than rust? What type of engines will fit up to the Manual transmission with 4wd? This XT is plane jane NA flat 4, and it leaks oil. So i thought it might as well be good for a swap. Are parts usually expensive for 80s Subaru's? The only experience i have is wrenching on american cars. I know that the same basic concepts apply, but they're applied differently. Thanks, Chris
