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Showing results for tags 'gl'.
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Good morning all, Does anyone know the part number for the FWD manual transmission that goes into a 1989 Subaru GL wagon? I attached a picture of a transmission that is thought to be for my car but I want to make sure. The number that is hard to read is TM70F5A2AT-AK thanks, Lewis
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Good afternoon all, I have a 1989 Subaru GL wagon (EA82) that I will be lifting 2". I am looking for recommendations for rims & tires. I will also be drilling out my hubs to the toyota 6 bolt pattern. Any favorites for big tires and rims (size, brand, etc) that have the off-road look and feel without sacrificing street handling. I will most likely be driving to work (20 mi) with this car. Any input/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Cost is always king I am not looking to sell my kidneys to fund this build but I understand it will take some coin. Thanks, Lewis
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I'm wondering on wether or not I should buy a 1992 Subaru GL wagon. The car is $800 and in pretty good shape for the age. I'm wondering how hard and exspensive will it be to convert it from fwd to 4wd/AWD and if it's worth doing or not http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/4464956741.html
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This is my 1986 Brat. It had some engine problems when i first got it but now runs well. It is still in pretty rough shape bodywise though... And needs alot of body work. Working on restoring it little by little but living all the way in Guam its pretty hard to find parts.
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Okay, I'll have to add pictures soon, but, I just completed the conversion to make my FWD DL become 4WD. If there's any interest in this, I'll post up pictures and a description/ instructions for the build and the best methods of afroengineering it all together. Until then, I'm going to take a shower and if anyone cares I will post up the build. I've attached a photo of the car which received the work.
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Got the weber swap done and car is running. Been driving it for a couple days and it is much quicker in the lower end and a hell of a lot louder idles good and runs smooth other than a sort of "flat spot" when giving it more throttle, almost as if its shorted on fuel or air? I also think the timing could use some adjusting but I can't advance the disty anymore because of a port and hose coming out of the intake manifold, into the block. (This is an EA81 motor with a weber on a EA82 intake manifold). But thinking I can remove and block that hose to get the timing dialed. So my question to the board is; what would you do to this setup to give it just that much more power/response/smoothness? Cap and rotor? Coil? Btw it's a 1982 GL 4x4. Thank you! -
Hey guys. Kicking around the idea of making a sweet v8 gl wagon. Mostly wondering about which motor/trans i would look into? Ive never really owned any muscle cars so i dont know where to start. Something simple paired with a cable operated trans would be awesome. Id like to be able to use the gls original rear end. Maybe a welded diff. Im thinking carbed for least amound of wiring. Id want to use as much of the gl as i could. Less money the better. I really just want to scare the crap out of fart can hondas with big smokey burnouts in a little old beater. I was planing to upgrade to stiffer suspention like bumblebeasts writeup.Rear disc swap and some wide 6 lugs. Thanks guys!
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Does anyone know where an RX front lip can be obtained? or a "replica"/something aftermarket? I know there are plenty of DIY lips for imprezas and legacies, but how about for an ea82? pics?
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So, here is the situation: My drivers side door was pulled from a car with power windows/locks, but my Loyale has manual windows and locks. The window obviously doesnt work, and I want to fix that.. Even if it is a "jimmy rig." I will shell out a few bucks for a manual door if i cant figure out something good. Bear with me here because I know jack squat about electronics/wiring. I want to know, is there a way to wire the window switch up to my battery? The back of the switch is a mess, it has 5 or 6 posts with a wire running to another switch, and some 10 ohm resistors(i think) running between posts. I was thinking it would be a bit more simple. Any way to just power the window motor itself? i dont really see how i could control up/down that way though. Secondly, can i just go pull a few things off of a door at pick n pull, such as the manual handle, and whatever else i need? I am starting to feel dumb here but i'm a bit stumped and its getting awfully warm out to have a stuck window. I wanna feel the breeze this summer. If i should post pics, let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated, if you have ever dealt with something like this before. An idea is an idea so throw em out there if you got em, fellas! - Walker -
Earler this winter i slid my beloved gl into a curb. The rear end not dog tracks pretty bad. I took it to school and came to the conclusion that the sub frame the rear diff and hubs are mounted to was tweaked. A friend of my has a old brat he said i could take parts off. I haven't looked at the brat yet. Anyone know if i could swap the rear sub frames? Thank you!
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I am so tired of dealing with my car's idle problem. If I can get it fixed once and for all, I'll be the happiest man alive. Now my car has developed a new idle issue. I still have my other idle issue, where I have to rev it to keep it from stalling. However, this issue has started appearing more and more often over the past few weeks. Basically what happens is the idle goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, etc. Much like "cyclic idles" that you see on tuned cars. It does then when it's supposed to be idling (obviously). If it's idling and the car is moving (like if I'm coasting in neutral to a stop sign), it'll do this cyclic idle. However, once I come to a stop, the idle will return to normal. Very recently, it is now doing it all the time though. Here's a video of what's happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xBu3RJIZrk&feature=youtu.be It's like it's trying to rev up to a kinda high idle, but then it get cut off. I don't really know how to explain it. The only CEL code I have is for "air control valve or circuit". I have replaced and cleaned the IACV twice now using junkyard units. Whatever I've done has made absolutely no difference. I've thought about replacing the wiring harness that goes to the IACV, but my testing says I might not need to. I've got power going to the IACV plug and resistances are within tolerances. The only thing I haven't tested is the ECU. Again, my previous idle issue is still there. It kinda feels like if there's water in the intake or something, since I've driven into deep mud before. However, I have sprayed every little and big vacuum hose in the engine bay with carb cleaner and haven't noticed any leaks. Sprayed the intake manifold gaskets, TBI, intake, PCV, and I didn't notice anything. My car has an exhaust leak and a misfire when idling, although it drives fine. Also, I have replaced my CTS twice. Currently have a brand new one in there, and it reads correct resistance at all temperatures. 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 N/A So, I'd like some help with this. I'm hoping that this new issue could be a possible fix for my other idle issue. My other idle issue seems to be OAT related: when it's warm outside, it'll idle fine. When it's cold outside, it won't want to idle and I have to rev it to keep it from dying. Has nothing to do with engine temperature; just outside air temperature. Any ideas? I can't stand this idle issue. My main issue is just plain dangerous, and this cyclic idle is annoying (and embarrassing, really).
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I have and 87 GL wagon, and it has this cool feature to switch IN and OUT of 4 wheel drive. and i'm planning on switching the insides with possibly a wrx set-up, but I don't want to lose that Drivetrain feature. Can anyone give me some info on ANY car that has that feature? -
HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED. Yesterday, I discovered the green connector for CEL testing has been plugged in forever. i unplugged it, and proceeded to do what I know, in order to read the check engine light. The oxygen monitor showed codes 21(coolant temp sensor), 24(idle air control valve or circuit) and 34(EGR solenoid or circuit). It got dark, so I went inside and proceeded to look online for a replacement IACV gasket, so I can clean it. I also looked at an EGR solenoid and planned on cleaning the EGR today. When I went to start my car this morning, it fired but died immediately, and I knew something was wrong. One more start and die, and without pumping the throttle or having it wide open, the car just cranked and didnt fire. What the heck? So I read the codes again, and nothing had changed. As far as I know the only thing I did was make a red light blink, so i'm a little confused. Is it possible that the car is acting up because the ECU "didnt know" about the bad egr and iacv until i put it in test mode? before having gone inside last night i started the car, and it RAN FINE. Again, what the heck? Does anyone have any ideas? car has always had idle issues, and at one point an ignition coil that arced to the negative ground. ask me questions and i will answer, but so far, thats what i got. Thank you guys in advance. -walker
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Any one have any leads or a pair of XT6 front springs?? Im trying to put them under an 82 gl with new struts to get a little bit of drop and stiffer spring rate. This should work right?? Any help/tips are much appreciated! thanks all!
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Hi Hoping for some help from knowledgable eyes. I have a Subaru GL 87 1.8 Carb. **I recently replaced the overcharging alternator (bad regulator). After timing belt procedure it decided to quit. Overview of this engine- 1. Here is the biggest problem, rear of motor and of alternator area: This hose (below) is broken the engine shakes a little more after, and when i cover the hole it calms down. I found the possible piece ( top) Not sure where else it was connected to? 2. I also found this guy hanging around, looks like it should be bolted down, but what is this? 3. Plugs behind Alternator not connected, what are they for? 4. disconnected plug Under Hood Driver Side Top, Where does it plug? what is it? the black broken tube (arrow) a problem? 5. On Passender Side Top disconnected and unknown plugs, what are these? Thanks for any help -
How in the bloody hell do I uncover the rear strut towers in my 90 wagon? am trying to remove struts and put on coil sleeves. where the codswalloping codswallop is the magic button that uncovers the tops?
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Hi Any help would be much appreciated. I have been trying to get this car going again. I have a 87 Subaru GL 1.8L ea82 carburetor engine Manual Transmission. I am doing a timing belt replacement. Plus, I decided to change the cam and crank seals at the same time. I was following the basic Chiltons book while doing the change. I removed the old belt in the initial part of the change. Now as I am putting things back on, and ready to put on the new timing belt, I am reading to have the cam sprockets positioned differently then they are. On the Driver side my Cam sprocket is DOWN. On the Passenger side my Cam sprocket is UP. Now that I have the timing belts off, how do I move my cams to the proper position to finish belt install? I'm nervous about how they should be correctly moved, all instructions simply say line it up with no in-depth details on how. Here is the DRIVER CAM with hole DOWN: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/photo1.jpg.html Here is the PASSENGER CAM with hole UP: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/passcam.jpg.html
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http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/359-01049330.html?utm_content=YN&utm_term=1982-1987+Subaru+GL+Struts+KYB+W0133-1615015+Front+82-87+Subaru+Strut+Assembly+1985+1983&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=COzk5eWCxbwCFUiGfgod-xcA-w Will these work on my 82' 4WD Gl wagon? And has anybody done this? how much lower are they than the 4WD struts? and can i use the stock 4WD springs? thanks guys!
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Lowering springs with KYB gr2 for Ea81?
82GLWag posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My question here is can you use kyb struts for stock replacement but use a shorter spring to get even just an inch lower? if so is there a spring I can get or would it be alright to just cut the stock springs? This is a 82' 4WD GL. also what about the back? I know I can adjust the torsion bar but idk where its sitting at the moment and if it will get low enough to match the front. -
Freezing coolant(water) killed my car?!
82GLWag posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Ok so I know I could have avoided this by running coolant. So really i just let the cold kill my car.. But my radiator has had a mean leak so I've been topping it off with water almost daily. It's a ea81 82' GL. Below freezing temps hit and froze all the water. Yesterday it happened aswell I started it up and the belt was squeeling on the water pump pulley so I shut it off then topped off the radiator with warm water and let it sit for a minute. I turned the pulley by hand to make sure it was not frozen and started it up. Warmed up fine and drive me to work and back. Today I start it up and same thing, all frozen. I let it run for about 30 seconds with the belt slipping on the frozen water pump pulley. Shut it off and added some warm water to melt the ice. It took a LOT of water this time. All the ice seemed to be melted. Turned it over again and it ran very rough the while motor was vibrating like it never has. I shut it off for a minute and turned it over again to have it start very rough and make one or two terrible knocking/clanking noises then die. Then it just wouldn't turn over at all like its seized/locked up. I pop the hood to find oil/water mixture oozing out of the intake!?? Into the air cleaner box. The water in the radiator had oil mixed in aswell. I know this is bad but my question to you is what's my damage?? I'm fairly new to cars so please bare with me. Thanks in advance ! -
Could anyone guess an estimated worth of my 85 GL AT/FWD Sedan? 80k Original Miles (My grandma's car since new). Brake pads @ 20% Runs Solid 2 Studded snow tires go with it. Looking to sell soon (Seattle) but need estimated value. Figured this might be the best place to find out.
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1985 subaru gl and 1986 subaru brat gl
zmarrott posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
So, i have a 1986 Brat GL that i recieved as a gift from in the family that is in depressingly sad condition. the engine runs, but has a phenominal time starting up, havent seen any problems with the tranny and 4 wheel. recently my mom was driving it and one wheel seized from a bad bearing(all 4 are since replaced), there is the all too common wheel well rust in the bed, both fenders and the hood are beyond repair and need to be replaced. drivers fender has a dent that interferes with the door and has rusted into its bent form, the passenger fender was attacked by a bear (not joking. both on my brat and my brothers outback legacy, the passenger fender got bit and bent out). and the hood has an odd bit of rust in the under frame of it. irrepairable, and i have no idea how it got there . interior is also in sad condition, but i dont need to type out annother paragraph on that. Now, in a random stroke of luck, i found a 1985 GL hatchback (2 wheel drive) that is the same generation body styling . and the even better thing about it; NO RUST . it lived in arizona all its life so it has the standard arizona car accessories such as; the awesome faded paint look, that is now a matte finish also. the oh, so, popular cracked dash and just overall rubber parts dry rotting. so my question is, just how much of the GL am i able to transplant into the brat? considdering the brat has been a New England car for most, if not all, of its life, i want to eliminate as much rust as possable. fenders and hood are a must, but do the doors match? windshield? i will upload pictures soon side note: i dont have access to my brat at the moment, due to it being on the opposite side of the country, but im going to get it this summer -
all of the sudden I started my 82 gl yesterday and the tac was viciously jumping up and down but it wasn't revving the motor all the way. I could kind of hear something under the hood making kind of a slipping/skipping noise. I thought it could have been frozen coolant because its mostly straight water and it was freezing outside. so I let it warm up while doing this then went on my way. it would stop for a little bit but even once warmed up and driving it was still fluttering even in 4th gear going 55. its really not wanting to stay idling now either. when I put the clutch in to come to a stop it idles down and dies if I don't rev it in time. Anybody ever experienced this? Please help! THANKYOU!
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Has anyone ever seen i beam suspension on a subaru, i've looked around but have not seen anything please post some sweet pics if you have them
