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Found 174 results

  1. I have been chasing the cause of extreme surging with this car. It was a bad O2 sensor. So as a quick heads up, most people will tell you its not possible for that to be the cause, but trust me it was. With the new O2 sensor it was running much better (solved the extreme surging) but with some slight hesitation and almost a miss. Later in the day I am pretty sure I found the source of the hesitation/miss... Timing belt that decided to break on my way to show off the car to a buddy. Hopefully the new timing belt will take care of the last remaining problems. But let me digress, I had a fun time changing the O2 sensor on the newly purchased 1993 Subaru Loyale. After many trips to the store to grab different tools and things I ended up getting the O2 sensor out. At first I spent some time attempting to use a harbor freight O2 sensor removal tool but just managed to figure out that its a bit tight to make that tool work and once you have figured out a way to make it work... its a 22mm O2 sensor and not a 7/8 like the harbor freight tool. Ok run to the local autozone and rent there O2 tool kit (25.99). Throw on the 22mm O2 sensor tool and manage to fight the sensor for another 30+ minutes before saying screw it and removing the whole y-pipe. Once the y-pipe was out I managed to finish rounding off most the existing O2 sensor and was ready to take to my friends metal shop to just drill it out. Then I had one last idea, remove the heat shield and see if I could fit a box end on the O2 sensor that way. Magically it worked. I could fit a 22mm box wrench on the O2 sensor and with some help of a rubber mallet I was able to break free the O2 sensor from the exhaust. It was a bitch but I am pretty sure this was the only way I would have been able to remove the O2 sensor and also the most simple fool proof way to do it. tl;dr Remove the y-pipe. Once thats free remove the heat shield around the cat. Use a 22mm wrench and a rubber mallet to beat the O2 sensor out of the cat. Tools Needed: 12mm, 14mm, 22mm, rubber mallet, PB blaster (or something of the sort), rags. Hope my pain is another mans gain.
  2. im in no need to know what these are or in need to fix them but ive been wondering what they are or what goes there, any help is greatly appreciated! just theres nothing about these on the changes on EA82 topic, and if there is, theres no picture for me to know it was or what it used to be. all of these are from a GL wagon, except for the cruise control that comes from a Loyale. ive attached 6 pictures, 1. first one is inbetween the foglight and steering wheel, no its not some future add on of ABS before subaru pulled the plug on the EA82 when the EJ series was introduced, i know it says ABS on the back of it but it also says ABS on the front grill, so its not ABS and ive looked at numerous GL-10's and non have the option or whatever goes there. 2. the next one is those clips that hold the headliner up, some wagons have an extra clip on the side of the middle back one, some dont, i broke mine when i was trying to fish the wire for the hatch light i added. 3. the next one is next to the tail lights, is this the switch to tell me if the hatch is open or closed? there on both sides, mine has never told me that the hatch is open in the dash lights, until i found a parts car and that one does. 4. the next one is of the cover that goes between the pedals and the rat nest of wires, some vehicles have them and some dont, did they all come with it and just not bother putting them back on? also the front skid plate, did they all come with it but on the first oil change they never put it back on? 5. next one is cruise control, why does the Loyale's cruise control look so ancient? i thought they came with the button that goes below the defroster on the left of the dash? 6. last one is of the seat belts, drivers side has this thing that wraps around to stop the seat belt while the other has a button, im guessing its been changed before, but whats the difference? or why? thanks for your opinions and help, just things ive been wondering about. (some images may be upside down, sorry about that, im on my phone)
  3. Hello all. After doing a full engine out reseal and clutch replacement on my 1990 loyale I'm having trouble getting my motor dialed in. It fires up and runs but it's VERY rough at low rpm. The timing is not dead on but pretty close. When I pull the plugs on cylinders 1 and 3 they look a little sooty but not bad. Cylinder 4 is very sooty/wet and show now signs of spark. Cylinder 2 is sooty and doesn't show much sign of spark. While the motors running I can pull the number 4 wire from the disty and it makes no difference. If I pull the number 2 wire the rpm fluctuates slightly but not much of a change. If i pull wires 1 or 3 the engine dies. ADDITIONAL INFO: After running for a bit the passenger side of the engine is hot to the touch while the driver side is cool. After the engine had been running a while the exhaust was glowing red. (maybe unburned fuel from cylinders 2 and 4??) Here's what I've tried: -Swapping spark plugs -new wires -new coil -new cap and rotor Any ideas? I'm going to the parts store here in spokane to rent a compression tester. but I'm pretty stumped Thanks! -K
  4. Hello again everybody! after doing a full reseal on my 1990 loyale ea82 I can't get the darn thing started! here's what I've done / replaced -New plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, cap and timing belts. -The timing belts were installed as per milefox's video on the proper flywheel mark. -The distributor was stabbed on TDC on the compression stroke. -Checked all fuses. -Battery tests out good. -I can pull the coil wire off the dist. and I get a nice hot spark. Even with a shot of starter fluid I don't even get a sputter. I'm losing my mind!!
  5. Well, the dreaded happened the other day. I went to go check the fluids and this is what I ended up with! So I ordered the new cable online (Park Suabru, ordered it Sun night and arrived Tuesday morn. $14.23. :rock: ) Hood Release Cable, part number 57331GA122 But there was a major problem. How the *%&^ do I open the hood w/o destroying the grille, hood or other stuff. (If your hood is open, then skip ahead to the cable replacement part) Well, for those of us with large hands, an A/C condenser or want to just make it easy, the ever useful slim-jim to the rescue! It was as if this tool was made for this job.. Available at ANY auto parts stores, can be had for around 7 bucks and has helped me and MANY stranded people. (Disclaimer: Never use this tool for malicious use. With a great tool comes great responsibility) Coming from up under the bumper using the notched spade-head side (not the fishtail side), on the driver's side, in front of the A/C condenser, angle the slim-jim at a ~45 degree angle and starting just below the assembly, slide up behind the latch mechanism. Now while flexing the tool toward the grille and dragging it outward toward the headlight, you should feel it catch. This is the latch release. Continue to pull the tool horizontally (toward the headlight, not down toward the marker light/ground) until the hood releases. Viola! Here are some images once I felt the slim-jim catch the release lever. (grille removed for clarity) Under car, looking up. Now that the hood is open, we can get to work! So I started by releasing the 4 plastic anchor clips that hold the cable to the inner fender and core support. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the latch to the core support (you will need to do this if part of the cable is still attached AND to hook the new anchor into the mechanism when installing the new cable) backside with the cable anchor attached Remove the 2 screws holding the cable shield to the latch and the core support. (Set aside the latch) Near the cable end, remove the tear-drop bracket attached to the old cable (you will need to re-use this). Be gentle, it will butterfly apart and then set aside. With patience, work the cable through the pass-through in the core support, around the battery and under the strut tower support plate. Now feed the old cable through the rubber grommet on the driver's side firewall until approx 6-8" are left in the engine bay. Move to the inside. Using a phillips screwdriver, Undo the 2 screws holding the hood release cable bracket to the bulkhead. Once free, take the head of the new cable and tape to the old cable. Wrap several times so the head will not catch on any wires or insulation. Back into the engine bay. Gently peel back the rubber rectangle grommet and pull the old cable up through the grommet until the new cable attached to the old cable is visible. Undo the new cable from the old. Push the old cable back through the grommet completely. Push the new cable through the open hole in the grommet. Push the grommet back into place on the firewall. Make sure to massage the edges well to get a good seal. Water DOES like to nest up there... Back inside. Attach the new cable/bracket assembly back to the bulkhead. The screw holes were very easy to find. Back outside. Feed the new cable following the route the old one took (Under the strut tower support plate, along the inner fender, UNDER the body grounding cable, UNDER the coolant resevoir feed tube and back through the hole in the core support) Be sure to put the protective grommet back around the cable BEFORE you attach the cable anchor to the latch assembly. With the anchor in the cradle of the latch, attach the latch to the core support. Replace screws to the cable shield. Finally, anchor cable to sheetmetal with the plastic retainers. DO THIS STEP LAST. Once the cable has the plastic anchors on, it becomes NEARLY impossible to slide the cable in the retainers. Test pull a few times checking for binding, lack of return or general badness (yeah, it's a word. ) BEFORE closing the hood. If all is good, close the hood to check for binding or excessive force. Grab a beer and enjoy the luxury of having a cable operated hood latch once again!
  6. Hello again, I've now drop my shiny rebuilt ea82 back into my loyale but I've got a concern... I haven't started the engine yet but I noticed that pushing in the clutch does nothing, and it feels pretty loose. If I put the trans in first and push the clutch in I should be able to push the car foward right?? As I understand it the loyale doesn't have a master and slave cylinder its just a cable straight to clutch release lever. I see the lever move but It doesnt feel like it's engaging the pressure plate? Any wisdom would be helpful.... Thanks!
  7. I bought a 91 EA82 with EFI and automatic for my wife and I'm only getting 22mpg. The check engine light comes on after a few miles but runs fine. This mpg seems low. I had an 89 with carb and auto that got 28mpg. I was expecting as good or better with the EFI. Any ideas?
  8. I picked up a 1993 Loyale wagon for 400$, expecting the best from it as i always have... well it just so happens i bought the only subaru that has ever given me problems! Mainly due to the fact that the previous owner had no idea what they were doing and messed alot of things up. looking for some advice and guidance for sure! Ive done head gasket jobs on plenty of my buddies chevys but never on a boxer. ive got a chiltons on the way and wanted to ask if theres anything i should know before ordering parts and diving in? any info would be greatly appreciated. My ultimate goal is to lift it 2' and turn it into an offroad rig.
  9. Hello Everybody! I'm almost done with a 3 month long project resealing my 1990 loyale's EA82 (head gaskets and the works!) I think I've used this forum more than my haynes manual, you guys rock! Right now I'm a little stuck trying to get my rear main seal in. Does anybody have a little wisdom as to how to get this seal to seat straight??? I'm on seal #3 beacause I get close and then I pops in crooked and I destroy it geting it back out any tips would be appreciated Thanks!
  10. Gloyale

    Turn Signal Mod.

    So......the projector headlight thread has alot of talk in it about relocating the Turn signals to the corner markers.........For better visibilty to other drivers, and to upen up room for foglights in teh stock location below the bumper. So I thought I woudl post about how I did mine..... Originally just wired the marker lights to be turns......but that left no marker light......and the old fixtures were cracked and broken, and they blinked clear not amber... and the wattage being off makes em blink fast. Plus....Like I said the old fixtures for the larger bulb are ussually cracked and wont stay in place cause the tabs are busted off. So next I tried this Ford pickup dual filament socket.....with a ground spade on the edge. Used a stepper bit to hog out the OE hole until the ford socket slipped in. Wired it up.......Amber running light, Brighter Amber Turnsignal...the small yellow light is left as a Corner makrer. Works excellent.......I'm gonna do this to the GFs car real soon.
  11. Hi all! Im sort of new to this whole thing but here it goes, I have a 1987 subaru gl base with the stock EA82 engine in it. Im 16 and I certainly dont know all that much about cars so Im not sure what could be going on but ill try to explain, I had removed the battery and when I went to put it back in I placed the positive wire to the positive terminal and the black box thats mounted to the coolant tank popped and start to smoke. All three wires that were in it blew in half and now when I go to start it nothing happens. The battery was in correctly im not that naive but im not sure what I need to do. Any suggestions?
  12. GOD BLESS US EVERYONE!!!! IT'S A CHRISTMAS MIRACLE!!! I love my girlfriend so much. She knows just what makes my heart beat. I guess I'm being dramatic.....but this is the happiest I've been opening a christmas gift since my first bike when I was 5 years old. Anyhow.....Here's the details....Puchased through Autozone. Sachs part # 031-168 Must look them up for either 85/86 4wd wagon w/vin 5 carbed engine. Tiny Tim won't need those crutches anymore!
  13. Hellloooo USMB. First off, thanks for all the advice on here. I've been lurking for awhile, probably should have posted something earlier but anyway... like before I bought this flesh-colored wagon. 1987 GL wagon, carbed, Hi Lo tranny and 125,480 miles and lots of...let's call it character so I don't start swearing lol. First mistake-- didn't drive it much, towed it home. Replaced (new parts) water pump (old one dead) timing belts plugs (NGK R) Wires Dist Rotor Battery Has 1/4 or so new gas with a bit of sea foam Used Weber DGAV 32/36 Carb, trans-dapt mounting plate, 130/130 jets. No choke. Doesn't have air filter on it meow. I've also ripped out the interior and cleaned out the critters' collection). Sheesh that was a PITA. It seems that either engine mounts were sheared or the bolts fell off?? One of them doesn't line up. There's a bit of crumple around the hood zone, and no grill. I did some compression tests, and they are loooow. ($25 Harbor Freight tool) I tried to give each cyl 10 cranks, and did each three times. Removed all plugs. Didn't do wet test, from what I've read (source:internet) boxxer engine doesn't give best results for that? I can probably figure it out if y'all think I ought to tho. 3-70, 60, 75 psi 4- 70, 80, 80 psi 1- 80, 60, 70 psi 2- 70, 70, 80 psi This was warm. (I also did the same test cold (like at 40 degrees) and they were all 100-110 psi what gives?? I did procedure same same, maybe there was moisture in there, it had been sitting for awhile?) Also, if I keep cranking, it will keep going 100+, but doesn't jump a whole lot the first crank, 10-20psi. If I let it idle, it will eventually stall out with fouled plugs after 15-20 minutes. With clean plugs, when I run it at 3500 or so rpm for a few minutes (in neutral, it ain't regstrd yet), the plugs look like this--(left to right 1,2,3,4 cylinder) Odd, no? The #2 looks healthy, but the others are blackened. I guess "fluffy" describes it. If it won't start, it has been bc plugs are fouled, and #3 has been wet fouled. This is what I think, but I the stump has been chumped, and I would like your input. 1. The carb needs adjusting. There may be a small vac leak. The idle mixture screw doesn't seem to make much difference, although I think I can hear a sucking sound when I screw it all the way in (idle screw in = less gas for idle?) 2. The engine needs a rebuild, and the plugs will continue to foul until that is done. Headgaskets came to mind? but the exhaust doesn't smell sweet by any means. It blows out a bit of white exhaust I guess. I have had to fill the coolant, but I figured that was just the cooling system filling in? Something to keep an eye on anyhow. me--> What do you think? Is there any other info I can provide? All input is welcome! I appreciate all your knowledge and have learned a ton lurking. Thanks A Bend, OR (ps hope the images are large enough, they look small in preview...)
  14. So I got an 86 GL that has terribly blown head gasket or cracked head (quart of water mixed in oil), and I want to put my good Block from my 88 DL parts car into it and just put all the carb'd stuff off the blown engine and put in all onto the good shortblock. Is there any difference between an SPFI block and heads and a Carburated block and heads? -They're both Manual and both non-power steering Thanks everyone for any input!
  15. Thank you all so much! I have been lurking around these forums for some time, and just recently made an account. I have very basic car knowledge, but between this forum and Miles Fox's youtube videos I was able to do a head gasket on my '92 Loyale. Basically everything that could have gone wrong did, from the head gasket being cracked to the lifters being stuck in the old block andthe rockers slipping all over the place then slapping like crazy afterwards Afterwards i put in some light oil, let it burn through a half a tank of gas with half a bottle of Seafoam in the tank and the other half in the oil. I drained the filth from it and gave it a full tune up, and put in the proper oil for the oncoming winter. My Loyale hit 80 on the freeway for the first time, and peeled rubber when i punched the gas. I never knew it could do either of these things, and all the thanks goes to you. It runs super smooth, there is no more knocking and the gas mileage has improved. It just hit 150,000 miles, and I'm hoping to get another 150k out of it. Many, many thanks, - Blusc13
  16. Test light success. It turns out that the 1993 model quietly had it's wiring changed around. Many sources online I have found claim for the constant 12V to be on the red/green pins and the illumination on solid red (which consequently, also attach to two pin connector with the same colored wires). This is WRONG. Test lighting the supposed red/green and red wires at the connector will show there is no power through these wires, despite them being connected to both the stock head unit's harness and the two pin connector coming off it and back to the car, regardless of key state (off, accessory, on). The blue yellow wire (pin one) will only power in accessory and on positions. Thus, 12V switched (or ignition as it can be labeled on aftermarket diagrams) has been located. Last, but certainly not least, is the mystery one pin connector with a white clip. It is ORANGE from the stock unit, and at the car side, changes to GREEN. Putting a test light to it in off will show power, as well as all other key states EXCEPT start (engine crank, this is normal). This is the constant 12V (or battery connection) that is SUPPOSED to be the red/green wire (or perhaps, only applies to years prior; I can only speculate why Subaru did this and won't begin to). So, let's recap. Constant 12V - Orange from stock unit, green after single pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'battery') Switched 12V - Blue on stock unit, blue/yellow after eleven pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'ignition') Ground - Black on both sides of eleven pin connector Wires in question: http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070451.jpg - Constant 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070352.jpg - Switched 12V http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070410.jpg - Ground Of course, the result will become clear when you jam it all in the dashboard and turn the key on: There is no illumination, nor remote power on lead for the amplifier (unless you installed one), and the power antenna wire is also unused (again, unless you installed one). Again, I used a test light and checked everything in each state of ignition. I know this gets searched up a lot online, but I'm not responsible for what you do to your vehicle, nor can I confirm if this will work in your scenario. That being said, use caution and common sense. Hopefully you can make use of this information if you decide to install an aftermarket stereo.
  17. Does anyone have instructions or know of a how-to describing the ins and outs of rebuilding an EA82 rear LSD? I think it's about time to give mine a refresh, but I'm not sure which clutch plates to order and a rebuilding guide would be very helpful. I have already tried searching for Datsun-based guides, but didn't find what I was looking for.
  18. Does anyone have instructions or know of a how-to describing the ins and outs of rebuilding an EA82 rear LSD? I think it's about time to give mine a refresh, but I'm not sure which clutch plates to order and a rebuilding guide would be very helpful. I have already tried searching for Datsun-based guides, but didn't find what I was looking for.
  19. I'm sure its somewhere, but I can't really find anything on the effects of having no backpressure on an ea82 turbo engine My front cat on my 87 GL Turbo recently fell off, so I put a small section of pipe on it to keep exhaust off the CV axle. It seems to be running smoother and a little more powerful, but I keep thinking it could damage something internally driving it like that. Anyone have first hand experience with this?? Haha
  20. hey guys, I've just bought a 93 DL 4WD D/R and I'm looking to lift it. now i know there is probably 1000 topics on this but they are all over the place and you only get half the story in each one! what I want to do is 3" suspension lift with a 2 or 3" body lift. I have done the homework on strut spacing and any more than 2", bigger wheels blah blah blah. But i would like is a list of all parts and potentially drawings if you have any. To start i would like to know if I can use 3x2x1/2 (I'm not used to using imperial measurements so if i make a mistake or 2 just bare with me) RHS or if ill need to make a more sturdy unit, dropping the cross members what is a the best rule of thumb for working out how much to drop. As for body lift should the blocks be solid is the 1/2 RHS good for that. Nuts and bolts, what are the best grade for all this, general purpose, high tensile, building. These are all things i just cannot find answers to on any post. If you can think of anything else i have forgotten please feel free to add it, I am looking to do this right and not too dodgy or bodged together. if that made no sense just let me know and I'll try to get it right for you that time. cheers guys!
  21. I've got a set of EA82 turbo heads off of my 1987 GL-10 wagon. Motor lost a rod bearing in the bottom end, but there was no sign of failure from the top end. Includes intake, fuel rails, etc.... Finally did the EJ22 swap after doing one on my Vanagon, so I don't need these goodies anymore! Make me an offer, I was thinking in the neighborhood of $100. I am in the Portland area if you want to pick them up, since the cost of shipping would be atrocious.
  22. August 9th, 2014 Rosland Park Edina, MN 4300 W 66th St, Edina, MN 55435 What: This meet is open to anyone in the group, feel free to bring friends and family along. This is being held in conjunction with Japanese Nostalgic Car and is open to anyone with a classic Japanese car or interest in classic Japanese cars. We are trying to grow the community here by intermingling between each other and meeting other people with classic Japanese cars, hard to believe that Legacys and SVXs are considered that. Officially a Japanese Nostalgic Car is any Japanese car made 25 years ago, for this purpose it is anything made prior to 1994, so feel free to come visit and show off your classic Japanese machine. Any car will be accepted but if the lot gets overfilled and you have a newer car you will be asked to make room for cars that qualify for collector plates in the state of MN (20 years or older). Location: The meet will be held at the back lot of Rosland park in Edina, Minnesota on Saturday, August, 9th. The meet will officially start at 11 am and end around 4 pm, there are grills for people to grill food, feel free to bring drinks and snacks. This is the same park as the Edina aquatic center, we are meeting in the back lot which is large enough to support 30 cars or so. There is also parking on the street near by and in the main lot, however I doubt it will get that busy. As this is a public park and will be open to the public please arrive on time or even early to guarantee a spot. Please set a good example of how car enthusiasts act, that being said... Now time for the rules: -THERE WILL BE ABSOLUTELY 100% NO TOLERANCE FOR HOONING, REVVING OR BURN OUTS. You will be removed from the event and the Minnesota EF Owners Club if you are a member, If you are on JNC or USMB I will ask the mods to block you. -Listen to the Admins of the show(the list will be growing soon). If we tell you not to do something don't make us tell you again. -No loud music, Edina is known as being nazis about this kind of thing, please set a good example of how car enthusiasts act. -Be respectful. Acting like a jack rump roast will get you kicked out in a hurry. I feel like I don't need to list off what disrespectful activity is but the short list is: parking like an idiot, being rude to others, leaving trash around, etc. -Have fun. This is an event to instigate comradery in our community and bring together people who wouldn't normally talk to each other. Please feel free the comment or PM me about this meet if you have questions. Below in a link to the Facebook event page https://www.facebook.com/events/797013693672574/?ref=notif&notif_t=plan_user_joined
  23. I'm wanting to go with a more aggressive wheel and tire on my 92 Loyale, any recommendations? It's 4 lug and I didn't want to have to mess with modifying the hubs, are there any styles that will bolt right on?
  24. Good afternoon All, I have been looking around for specific dimensions of strut towers for a lift (3"). I haven't found much, and I have asked a few people which went no where. So here it is, I did some measuring, modeling, and drafting and this is what I came up with. Please let me know how I did? If I need to make changes let me know... Best, Lewis
  25. I hear talk of many 'how to' threads for a EA82 5 speed tranny to D/R 5 speed swap but I can't find them. I find random htreads asking questions but never any how to's. Where might they be located? Link? Thanks