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Basically I'm wondering what radiators will work in my 82 gl wagon. With ea81. The junkyard has an 85 , 87 and an 88. Do these have the same radiator? Is there any parts from these cars that are the same from 82? Rear bumper possibly? What about turning lights and brake lights ? If any parts would swap right over with bolt in ease?

Do they make a KYB gas adjust shock for my 1982 gl 4x4 wagon? I can't seem to find them searching in google. Does anybody know the part number if they are out there? I'm planning in running the KYB excel g/gr2 in the front and i want to run the gas adjusts in the rear. And any suggestions on where to order from? Thanks!

so i have an 86 ea82 gl wagon that i want to lift about 2 or 3 inches (for now) because my buddy just gave me his old toyo alloy wheels and tires and i want to cram them under my 4x4. ANYWAY, how bad for my car is a hockey puck lift, i've heard that they fail if you don't do it carefully but i feel like that is the case with any lift. thanks for your time.

Got a 82 GL 4x4 wagon about a month ago. Im really stoked on it its a good runner for the most part. the CV axel went out on it and i had it replaced. Im looking for a new radiator because mine is cracked so i have to keep topping it off. im also looking for some external body parts; rear bumper, front mud flap. maybe a whole new front grill assembly. If anybody is around snohomish county area and has alot of experience with the old gens i would like to meet up and have someone take a look at this wagon and point me in the right direction of what i should do next on this thing. and maybe go rally around (; cheers and thankyou!

Hello, I'm finnaly buying a car after being carless for years and I'm looking for advise on what to get, what to considerater, and what mods to look in to. I've been doing some research, mostly in these forums, and I'm thinking a 88 or 89 GL or Gl-10 wagon might be for me. This car will be a daily driver but also used for weekend and week long trips to the desert in eastern oregon and Idaho. I don't plan on any hardcore off-roading but I'd like to be able to go out into the country without worry. Specific questions are 88/89 GL a good choice or should I think about a newer Loyale? GL or GL-10? Largest wheel/tire size unlifted or go for a slight lift? Are the turbos reliable and worth it? Bare bones or all the options (are the options prone to breaking)? I'm sure there are plenty other considerations I should make that I don't know about. I'm very excited to become a Subaru owner as I've wanted one for years. Thanks for any advise!

I don't know an incredible lot about these cars, I just did an engine swap yesterday from 1991 Loyale into my 1987 GL. My '87 had almost 300,000 miles, still ran, but, it was time for a fresh motor, so, I put a 120,000 mile motor from my friend's totalled loyale in it. (It was rear ended) It started easily, ran great, accelerated easily, it was a fun little motor. But, I was driving and suddenly the motor just stopped, sputtered out. The engine was warmer than it should have been, so, I thought I might have lost head gaskets, but, no smoke, no coolant spew, and it didn't sound like I grenaded the motor. It just died and refused to start again. It turns over easily, no wierd noise or hesitation, it just won't start. I checked the oil when it died and it didn't look like milkshake (when coolant enters oil). So, I don't think it's headgaskets. I thought maybe I lost a timing belt, but, if I remove my distributor cap the distributor still rotates when I turn the engine over, which indicates timing. I know these cars have two timing belts, so, could I have lost te passenger side belt? I kind of think it would run, but, just run like spoob with half the timing. I don't know though. Anybody have any answers?

What is up everyone? I wanted to make a post of my latest swap, I started with a 1992 Loyale Wagon with a 4" lift kit homemade, 27" tires, 6 lug hubs, Datsun Turbine aluminum 14" wheels, it had a 1988 GL EA82 which ran amazing and had a surprising amount of power, it also has the dual range from an 88 GL as well, not one of those funky pushbutton deals the loyales had. On a trip back from Golden,CO to Cheyenne, WY where we moved to the EA started to knock really really bad. Maybe it was a rod, maybe it was a valve? Who cares it was a gutless EA82. So I began shopping for a donor... I found a 1990 Legacy down in fort Collins the guy had wrecked, he spun it around and slammed the rear end into a concrete barrier. Needless to say it was destroyed, I still opted to drive it all the way to my house from his though which was an hour away. The car ran awesome it just kinda leaned and drifted to the right a lot. This all started around Labor day and I just now finished yesterday, I contribute this to having a wife who is 8 months pregnant and we have a 2.5 year old boy so time was hard to come by. Also coming up with money to spend on the project is also very hard to explain to a preggo who needs things for a new baby as im sure some of you guys know haha. Anyways lets get into it, this is what I did that has worked great so far. I used the radiator from the legacy and it fit perfectly where the old one was, all I did was grind off the little metal studs that were on the bottom of the EJ rad so it would sit flat and I used my grinder to cut the sheet metal of the loyale so that the radiator would not lean into the engine, the only real issue I had was the radiator hoses but thanks to smart phones I just took a pic of the inlets/outlets and went to advance and grabbed a couple of hoses that looked like I could make work by cutting them. Thinking of it I had to cut a small piece of metal out from the inside of the hood so the rad cap wouldn't hit, worked great using the existing overflow reservoir. Exhaust: On the first swap I did I basically just bolted up the EJ header to the engine and got rid of the rest of the exhaust that bolted on with those spring bolts about middle of the car. At this junction I welded a 2" inlet 2" outlet cherry bomb then welded on a 45 degree 2" and straight out in front of the wheel tire. Makes for a badass Subaru sound and I mostly drive around with no music cause I love the way it sounds. Adapter Plate: For some reason I had it in my head SJR charged $400 for just the plate, then I wanted to look again the other day and that was for all of it including the drilled flywheel haha wow. I opted for a 16"x16" 1/2" thick plate of steel from metal distributors which ran me $90. This was just a plate mind you, I spent so many days grinding torching and welding to make it right, when I could've just paid $185. well well worth the money. The first plate I made I used 1/2" aluminum from Alreco in brighton, Colorado. Aluminum is much easier to work with that steel. I didn't have many issues with the plate at all actually and it is super strong, no issues at all so far. Wiring/Electrical: Yes, the most amazing part of the swap. If you are considering doing this swap and have never done an undertaking like this just do it stop being a wuss. Theyre just wires. On the other hand I am an elevator service tech and I deal with electricity and mechanics every day at work so it didn't bother me to dive right in as I have to read and figure out electrical systems on elevators when they break. This is what I did with my big stuff like the fuel pump relay, ignition relay, fuel pump yada yada. For the constant 12v power I used the fat white 12a going to the ignition switch in the steering column, I tapped in and then attached my own inline fuse, for the switched 12v I used the fat black 12ga wire going to the same switch, I also used an inline fuse for this as well. From there I wired up the fuel pump relay on the top as your looking down at it from the top there is a smaller green/blk wire that goes directly to F47#23 or D23 this is called Fuel Pump Control in the prints. The small yellow wire is attached to the 12V switched power that I tapped into, The blk/red wire goes to the positive side of the existing fuel pump, I tapped in the existing one that was under the dash on the pass side. the FAT yellow wire gets tapped in the 12v constant after the fuse I installed. The Ignition Relay: The light green wire, oh man this caused me many many hours of grief freezing in the garage. When you tear out the harness DO NOT disregard the diode. What is the diode you may be asking, well it is half grey and half black and has 3 wires coming out of it, I light green and 2 yellows, I disregarded this little gem at first, geez why wont this POS cranks?! Well lo and behold after doing a lot of research I found a Volkswagen wiring diagram where a guy transplanted an EJ22, that's when I saw the diode. This time I kept ALL of the wiring I removed from the legacy and with some digging I found it! With about a foot of wires sticking out of it still, I attached it with the light green wire coming off of the ignition relay with one end going to ECU point F47#5 Self Shutoff Control, one to one of the diode green wires, and one to 12V switched power. Boom that thing fired right up! Okay now to the rest of the IGN relay, the black on It goes to a ground, the 2 FAT yellows go to 12V constant and one of the FAT yellow/red wires goes to the O2 Sensor, the other FAT yellow/red goes to A2 and A13 (B48#2 B48#13) Tuning and testing: The thing would run awesome just idling, however when I drove it would backfire and sputter and buck and sneeze. Over the last 2 weeks ive been scratching my head and freezing trying to figure it out, was it a spark plug? No. Was it the plug wires? No. Oh Oh maybe a bad injector? Trying to pull one out I broke the top off...argh. another couple days later got 2 used ones, I had pulled the fuel injector next to it to compare when I went to find new ones at the junkyard, well I put the new ones back in and what do ya know it ran...terrible! spitting gas out the exhaust burning white smoke, what the hell? I pulled those two plugs and they were soaked in gas. What? Well more research and more days and random hours I found that when most people replace fuel injectors they don't pay attention to replacing the O ring which basically just allows fuel to literally pour in! I was able to get FI O rings at advance that were universal and it fixed that. Of course this 2.2 has the black top injectors and not the reds because I have 3 extra ones of those. Then came the eureka moment, after that incident I cleaned the plugs and wanted to test some more, my god it still backfires and sputters and cant hardly drive. Then the next day I figured id give it another shot and it had snowed the night before, I got in while it was warming up and turned on the wipers to get the snow off and as soon as I turned em on the car died. My head started to hurt, why did that happen? that has nothing to do with the engine! WTF. Then it hit me. Grounds. I remember attaching the ground of the ignitor and the MAF to the ground on the outside of the windshield wiper motor. Why I did this I don't know, I remember from the first swap a common ground is needed for all the grounds for less complications. Needless to say I took these ridiculous grounds off and attached a black wire and ran it to the common ground located in front of the battery. Then boom the car ran just the way I wanted, fast and loud. Holy crap what a relief! Forgive me for such a long post but I felt it was necessary and hopefully it helps some other poor sap like me someday. If you've got any questions feel free to ask, have a good one and good luck!

GOD BLESS US EVERYONE!!!! IT'S A CHRISTMAS MIRACLE!!! I love my girlfriend so much. She knows just what makes my heart beat. I guess I'm being dramatic.....but this is the happiest I've been opening a christmas gift since my first bike when I was 5 years old. Anyhow.....Here's the details....Puchased through Autozone. Sachs part # 031-168 Must look them up for either 85/86 4wd wagon w/vin 5 carbed engine. Tiny Tim won't need those crutches anymore!

I have a 1987 GL Coupe. It's a fun car, but, finding parts is hard. When I bought it, the passenger side tail light was cracked, which was okay. The driver's side tail light, as of about 2 hours ago, was broken because I was having too much fun on a snowy road and I may have bounced it off a tree. No real dent, didn't scratch the paint, just broke the signal lens off. (The actual brake light is fine, just the orange bit is missing). I'd really like to replace it, but, I can't find this easily. If someone knows where I can buy one or will sell me one, I'd be very happy! Is it possible to use the lights from a sedan instead? Even with a little modification? Or that definitely a no-go?

Hey everyone, I'm new here. I decided to join because I am looking into getting a 88 GL Wagon from a man my dad works with. It's the 1.8 (TBI?) coupled to a 5 speed with dual range 4wd, AC, power windows and locks, and silver in color. I might be trading a snowmobile for it otherwise I more than likely will be selling my current car (94 Saturn SL1) and then buying the GL. Anyways, the man who owns it has put a lot of new things into it over the past few years main things being the clutch and motor itself. It has some bubbling paint around where the windshield meets the bodywork. There's also some rust around the rear wheel wells and behind the rear wheels, however the underside of the car looks pretty clean still. I took it for a test drive and it seems to drive okay, it fired right up and was smooth but the clutch pedal had little feel to it and was mushy. Everything else seems clean and functioning. The only things that need work mechanically (to my knowledge) is one side needs new wheel bearings and there is a fuel pressure regulator or something on the gas tank that leaks. With this information that I have provided what is your opinions on it? Is there any red flags or anything that I should be aware of when hopefully purchasing it? Thanks guys!

Hi All, This is Andrew here again. I am still trying to tackle this bogging out issue. My Brat runs really well when its not warmed up, but once it is warm it losses power when moving from a stopped position. I have completely rebuilt the carb and at this point I am pretty much done dealing with it. Its the stock carb and I am thinking its time to replace it with one of those webber carbs. Does anyone have a link to the carb that will work with my 1985 Brat 1.8L? As always, thanks in advance for your support and help. Cheers, Andrew

Ok so I recently put a five speed d/r into my Brat. Had a few problems with not going into reverse before, put the shims in the bolts and fixed that problem, but now its doing the same thing as before. Except this time it only when my transmission is cold. I live in Colorado and we've been having some cold nights and It like reverse doesn't exist, but the second I drive for a few minutes and warm it up its perfectly fine. Only does it when its colder than about ten degrees. Anyone have any ideas how I could fix this? Possibly an idea for a "cozy" or some sort of way to keep it warm at night.

Hello, First time posting. I have looked around quite extensively but have not been able to pinpoint a similar topic. I have a 1985 GL wagon that runs great. Everything was working great until two days ago. I had not driven it for a week and a half because I was out of town. The temperature hear in Colorado was below 20 and as low as -10 for most of this time. Now once it gets warmed up to operating temp the heater does not work. The hoses going into the heater core are not particularly warm and when I squeeze them there doesn't seem to be anything in them. It will also start to over heat but then go back to normal temp occasionally. I checked coolant level and filled to maximum. Has anyone else experienced this or have any insight? I plan on getting a block heater soon but have a feeling that won't change much except for ease of starting. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Noah.

Hey there fellow subaru lovers. ive recently started a fan page on facebook for Old Gen subarus. (it says NW but honestly we love em all!) im not really trying to post to get more likes as much as i am looking for great Old gen subaru pictures. I see amazing ones day in and day out on here and i want to use them all but i would also like to give credit to those who have made it great. i ve added a few that i absolutely couldnt help myself but id like to get more! anyone who would like to have their old gen subarus plastered on the internet with us all drooling over it either add them on this thread. send them to my email ( elliottdevon@ymail.com ) And Or go and put it on the page and like the page. https://www.facebook.com/nwoldgensubarus ALSO we have been trying to get together a meet for Old Gens in the nw most likely in the oregon area. we have a separate thread on here if you are interested. but we will likely be adding it as an event on the facebook. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142570-like-to-get-an-old-gen-meet-going-in-the-oregon-area/ Thanks all! hope to hear from you soon!

After going to the west coast subaru id really like to get together with other Old Gen Subaru lovers here in the NW. i see so many pages on facebook etc on the new gen (which are great and i love em) but i want to see all the Old gen rigs. Would anyone be want to join in on this? Im thinking after christmas time. If your interested Post on here or pm me. maybe if we find out where everyone is coming from finding a good place to all meet would be easier. Im in Salem, OR Where yall at?

Hello everyone, Nice website you've got here, I finally had to stop lurking and make an account because she stopped running and it was time to ask for help, so here goes: I've got an 86 subaru GL, 300,000+ miles, rebuilt ea82, she's been running really well lately but the other day I started her up on the first try, as usual, just jumped right to life. I drove about 10 feet and stopped at a stop sign and the engine died. Wouldn't start but still turn over. Checked the fuel pump fuse and it was blown, so I replaced it and she started right up again. I drove about 4 blocks and it died again, wouldn't start. Fuel pump fuse was blown again. Replaced the fuse, started up, and died immediately. Fuse was blown again. Subsequently replaced and blew 3 more fuses, without the car running for more than a second, and was then all out of spares and had to get a tow back home. I've been hearing it could be that the fuel pump relay has gone out. My plan was to replace the relay this afternoon and see if that does it, but I could use some information in regards to the location of the fuel pump, or if anyone else has any ideas or solutions it'd be great to her em. Thanks!

Okay so its not literally purple lightning but thats what it looks like. My coil is arcing between the posts with purple "lightning". Ive never seen this before nor do I know how to diagnose this.... any ideas as to whats wrong? Is the coil itself bad or is it something I can fix? i.e. is it not grounded properly etc.... thanks for the input! I just wanna get my 81 sedan back in tip top condition so i can get it to the show this coming year.

So i just bought a new gl wagon because i was given a price i could not refuse for a car that was worth double if not triple what i paid. The only issue i have with it is that it does not have 4wd which is a total bummer. Is there any way to convert this beast of a car to 4wd? im planning on lifting it already so the clearance shouldn't be an issue but please correct me if i'm wrong

I'm back! I've been working on a my "new" hatch and have run into a problem with replacing my driver's side front cv shaft. Mine was TOAST, no wonder it was making that horrible chattering sound. I ordered a new production oem style shaft from Autozone, and hoped that what would come up would be the right length. Nope, later I found out it was a 27 and 5/16" (compressed) long shaft. Not only was it too long, but the metal "head" right behind the wheel/hub side spindle was too fat to fit the suspension assembly. ~~~ 27-5/16" new oem style shaft too long and too wide on the spindle "head" Next one ordered, 27 and 1/4" this one looked like the one I pulled off the Soob (same aftermarket style head). The "head" wasn't as fat either, but again, it was about half an inch too long for the lower ball-joint to fit into it's bracket. -Something I noticed was that if I mated the engine side of the shaft and slid it as far in as it would go (preventing me from pinning it in place), it still need < half an inch to properly fit the ball joint. ~~~27-1/4" new oem style shaft still about half an inch too long to fit the suspension assembly properly. I've orderd my last option from Autozone (and they dropped the price for me thankfully), and the system checks it in as having a 25-3/4" compressed length. I've got the part already and I fear this one will be too short. ~~~Going to try a 25-3/4" cv shaft today, fear it's too short even if it bolts on. On the forum, someone pointed me toward Rock-auto for the "shorter" EMPI cv shaft listed for my car. That one has a 27-1/4" compressed length, I'm guessing the shoddy build of the New OEM style 27-1/4" shaft is to blame? What's the compressed length for the GL hatch front (driver's side) CV shaft? Has anyone ever experienced this same issue before? Thanks in advance!

i just changed out my vacuum rail and all of my hoses connecting but now my GL turns over and then makes this weird backwards turn over sound and then spits either smoke or gasoline out of the carb

Hey everyone, I am starting to prepare for rallycross. I own a 1990 5spd Loyale with an EA82. Car is stock except for Spectre cone filter, fitted to a MAF adapter(3"). Also, the drivers seat is a stock bucket seat from a Nissan 240sx, with rail adapters I made here at home. I also have mudflaps which are custom made. SO, I have a few things to do before I believe this car is ready to go sling mud around. Before anyone says anything, I am aware that this car isn't a "race-ready" vehicle, nor is it really typical for any sort of motorsport event. From what I've read about rallycross, it's about having fun and getting the car out there, not being fast and competitive. Thats what i'm looking for. I don't want to destroy the car, I want to go have fun. I have no problem driving conservatively on the track, and i'm confident that my car will do fine. I'm not out to build some badass screaming turbo race car.. I want to take a virtually stock car and improve my abilities, along with getting a feel for basic motorsports. I would assume everyone on here sees what I mean, but still, I feel like I have to say something. Alright, here is what i have in mind that should get me ready to go play. CAR -Battery tie down(i have none) -set of good tires -relocate AWD button to dash and get aftermarket shift knob -put on skidplate -fire extinguisher -straight pipe with cat ITEMS TO BUY -approved helmet -gloves -SCCA membership -gas can -tarp -jumper cables Questions: 1) Will my aftermarket seat be a problem for the inspection? Custom made adapters had to be made to make the seat fit in my car. It's sturdy, and not anything completely ridiculous. The seatbelt works and is positioned correctly. Other than what I have said, does anyone have any advice or recommendations for me? I would really appreciate it. I'm new to this, obviously. I'm a huge rally fan, and I live in the Pacific Northwest. I'll be participating in Sports Car Club of America events. I'll upload pictures of progress. Thank you guys!

Inhreited the Brat from my step-dad who bought it about 10 years ago. getting ready to turn it into a little rally beast. plenty of rust in all the common brat rust spots (plus a rather odd one on the underside of the hood), but shouldnt be too hard to fix. hard part is gonna be the drive system swap

so, as my topic says, im going to be modding my brat into a little rally beast. Im already looking for needed replacement parts such as hood, fenders, grill, rear bumper, etc. mostly cosmetic. but im still planning out the major modifications. One of the first things on the long list of modifications and repairs needed is an engine (well..actually an entire drive system, but engine being the focal point) for the much needed increase in power. im thinking the system from a late 90's impreza; ej25 motor, manual transmission, awd. actually, let me take a step back and just lay out the basic overall idea for the project. basically i want an every day driver that i can also go play in the sand with . cosmetically i want it to look like a factory soup up. very simple black body with white accents. mechanics is a who different story. im going to be building it for aggressive offroad use, so a small lift and slightly larger tires is in order. and an engine with much greater power; more specifically torque. any ideas on what engine or what vehicle to steal the drive system from? or any other ideas or tips? i will post pictures shortly, but considering im not in the same state as my brat at the moment, i only have pictures from earlier this year

Hello, I'm working on a swap project (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117202-1978-4x4-wagon-build-thread/) and am looking for the pinout for the '89 GL transmission. I've been looking everywhere and for some reason can't track these down - it's really just two plugs... If anyone can point me to one or send me one you'd make my life a bit easier.

I just bought a 4-Door 1984 GL Wagon with 164,xxx thousand miles. it runs and drives well, save for the lack of rear differential mount bushings making a racket in the rear end, the engine surging because the distributor is very sloppy, and the oil dripping from the power steering pump. The power steering pump seems to be leaking between it and the reservoir, so I believe I should be able to take it apart and re-seal it, correct? The distributor just needs to be replaced. The bushings I cannot locate for the life of me so I am looking for suggestions on where to get them or if I should make them. The owner I bought it from had just replaced the shocks and struts all the way around, the starter, got new tires, new seats, rebuilt the tranny, and replaced all seals and gaskets for the engine. This is the first Subaru I've owned, and auto parts stores don't seem to have the parts I need to replace, so where do you guys suggest I look? And what else, if anything, should I look into on this car that could be a problem in the future? Thanks for any feedback.