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Showing results for tags 'ej22'.
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So i have been looking into legacy turbos for a while and came across thishttps://boulder.craigslist.org/cto/6031023876.html Obviously this price is way to high considering the miles. But what does everyone here think? The timing belt , water pump, and pulleys were changed 40k ago. He said the headgaskets have not been done yet. Anyone have any experience with high mileage legacy turbos? Any advice or things to look out for would be greatly appreciated! -
I am getting pretty surprised by how many high milage ej22's I'm seeing. When my 06 WRX just passed 100k and my dads 96 legacy outback that had almost 270k was running better than mine, i started wondering what was going on with these engines! How many miles do you guys have on your EJ22's? Super curious!
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So I'm working on this project with my 1984 EA81 DL wagon. Attempting to swap in an EJ22 and the transmission from the same car, 5sp 4MT. I'm having some trouble figuring out how to mount the trans. I can cut out the tunnel but even so, I'm puzzled on how to attach the trans. I could use the EJ22 crossmember with the front sway bar removed. Any thoughts? -
Hello to all, I've recently acquired a VW bus conversion with a 1998 EJ22. I don't know much at all about the Subaru world, but I'm ready to learn. Is this an OBD I, or OBD II? Do I need to submit more info? I'd like to add some type of readout to the dash for the engine operating parameters, other than a bunch of steam gauges, any help or info would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
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Hi ultimate folks, I'm am towards the end of a '96 ej22 swap into an '84 GL wagon. I currently have the ecu and harness draped across the engine bay with what I think has all of the proper wires grounded and hooked up, but I can't seem to get spark. My question is, does anybody have a checklist or know off the top of their head a list of connections that are required for spark? For example, I don't know if the ignition switch wire should be grounded while cranking or needs 12 volts or some other combination. I have a custom ignition setup, so there aren't any relays yet, just raw wires going everywhere, and I run the starter by just touching 12 volts to the switch on the starter and the new fuel pump. Sorry for mistakes, I'm on my phone. Thanks.- 3 replies
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(I'm a forum newbie and a newbie auto mechanic - I just retired and don't need to pay our mechanic to fix the car immediately so I can go to work - so I'm trying to learn to do what I can. I'm handy and resourceful, just never applied it much to cars since my 1965 Dodge Dart! This is my first experience with EFI and OBDII.) 1995 Legacy wagon L, EJ22; no EGR; 5-speed manual; ~243K Have owned since ~49K and done oil/fluids maintenance myself. We live in PA, so we have annual inspections. All repair work has been done by pros and, I think, by pretty good and reliable ones. We've tried to hit the maintenance milestones per Subaru and my trusty Haynes manual. The car has been very reliable until: - driving to the local store and experienced rough idle and running - another local trip and it stalled - engine just quit - started up without problem and got me home - would start easily but would not idle without goosing gas - had it towed to shop; they said it needed a new MAF, new plugs and wires, and had an exhaust leak I replaced the MAF with a unit from NAPA and was able to drive it home from the shop. At home: - I replaced the plugs and wires. Our records show they had not been done since 150K - I replaced the PCV valve - The donut gasket at the joint from the second cat to the pipe to the muffler was bad, so I replaced that and the 2 spring bolts. Still had intermittent idling and running problems. When it ran well, it ran great - better than before. After consulting several Youtube sources, bought a SCAN tool and a vacuum gauge. With Autel AL519 SCAN tool: - O2 sensors indicate that downstream sensor is jumping around instead of maintaining a small range around .5 volt. I understand this suggests that catalytic converter/s is/are not doing its/their job ) (have 2 inline). - Shows PIDs P0100 and P0101. I did not reset these because I suspect the MAF is affected by an exhaust restriction - As near as I can tell (limited experience) most other live data looks pretty good. With the vacuum gauge connected post-intake: - Idles around 650-700 RPM (before stalling) and draws ~17-18 Hg - At 2500 RPM, drops to 8-10 Hg - I understand this suggests an exhaust restriction Assuming the exhaust restriction is downstream of the engine internals, my plan is to disconnect components starting at the muffler and work my way upstream until the restriction is eliminated. I have already disconnected the pipe to the muffler at the donut gasket that connects to the second catalytic converter. The vacuum backup is unchanged. I need to buy or borrow tools to work upstream from there. A buddy says I can remove an O2 sensor from each catalytic coverter to see which cat is the problem (assuming both are not bad). Question 1 - I'm thinking it's probably a bad/clogged catalytic converter - and maybe the root cause for that problem is that we didn't change plugs for nearly 100K. What say ye of the collective wisdom to these assertions? Question 2 - If testing shows that only cat 1 or cat 2 is bad, should I still replace both? Question 3 - Am I missing something here or overlooking something else I should investigate? Question 4 - Is this all worth the trouble? I would like to keep this around as a utility vehicle. We live on 8 hilly acres and it's kinda nice to have 4WD to haul a little firewood, or the kayak, or the bikes, or to hook up a trailer to go get stuff from Lowes or mulch or whatever. I'd like to feel confident to drive it across the country, but I'll take just a few more years of local duty until we absolutely need to replace it. So, Question 4B - what signs should I look for that it may be time to abandon it and find someone who just can't resist another EJ22? Thanks so much for any thoughts, suggestions, insight! -Paul -
So i have a 1992 loyale, i replaced the head gaskets last winter. and im starting to get scared that im gonna have to tear it apart again. It leaks very slowly from the camshaft housing and valve cover, and has a tick when the motor is cold. My question is should i grow a pair, rip it apart and fix it or should i look at other options?
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I recently got a 1996 Legacy Outback as my first car, and it has driven great for the first 5000 miles that I've owned it. A couple days ago, however, I noticed some what I think is coolant below the engine. Then yesterday I noticed some more pooling beneath the engine. After checking again today, none has leaked. It seems to me that the location of the leak is next to a radiator hose and timing belt cover (but not on the hose itself). You can see the two shiny drops of fluid in the attached picture. There is no overheating, "off" smells, or any other behavior out of the ordinary-- just the leaking. Any idea what may be the cause of this leak, and what I should do about it? I'm not too mechanically savvy, and this my first car, so any help is much appreciated!
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Hi im a new owner of a 1988 ea81 subaru brumby that i have bought as a project car and there are a few things that i would like to ask about 1st- the plan was always to replace the engine with something better, i dont need ridiculous power however i am looking for at least 100kw N/A. so far the ej22(1or2series naturally aspirated) looks like the go because apparently you dont need to modify the chassis rails so i wont have legal issues, it slots easy and is carbureted, being carbureted without ecu is a good thing as i am a simple mechanic with a very tight budget and installing an installing ecu is apparently a very big hassle. im looking for something that wont be to difficult to swap. also i would like to know what issues there is going to be legally with changing it (im from queensland) 2nd- now this is actually my first build (how else do you learn) however i do have some ex mechanic friends helping me out with it. but i was wondering what is the go with the gearbox because i want to upgrade it to a 5spd instead of the standard 4spd but i dont know what to get/do (any help) 3rd- Wheels, now i have been looking around and have found out my 1988 brumby like all the other similar subie models has a really uncommon stud pattern and i cannot find anything on what to do to make it compatible with other patterns and i cannot find for the life of me find any 4x140 wheels that look half decent , i would like to get a nice looking set of 13-14 inch rims that wont empty a bank. 4th- cruise control, now apparently this is highly achievable with any vehicle, i just dont know how or what to get 5th- power steering, now i know this is a thing but i dont know what to do in the situation of an engine swap, does anything change or do you just use the old leone steering like i have seen some people do. please know i am new to this!! i will probably be wrong about allot of things but dont comment just to say "go home" i have a long time to work on this and have help from lots of people (even an old subaru mechanic), if you could help me out and give me some "helpful" advise i would really appreciate it, i may ask further questions. thanks in advance -Lewis -
Hi, I know this question has been asked a lot on this forum however I aim to do as much research as possible into everything I do so I get it right the first time. I am on a fairly tight budget and would like to know a few things. 1. Will I be able to use the ej18 intake runners on the ej22 P2 block to get it to work 2. Will I be able to use the ej18 flywheel and clutch on the ej22 for the time being 3. Will the transmissions bolt up or will I need to install a different transmission 4 can I just get rid of the knock sensor and it (ej22) run fine Kind regards~Abid -
I recently picked up a nice rust free 1997 Legacy 2.2 with a broken timing belt. I’ve gotten it started a few times but I am convinced the timing is still off. I was wondering if anyone on this page could offer any additional help. Things I know: Car is vinned as a 97 Inspection plates states that it was manufactured in August of 96 Motor is an ej22, non-interference motor – confirmed by grooved and stamped valve covers. Timing belt was broken while running. No other work has been performed on the vehicle since the timing belt was broken. Vehicle is not currently throwing any codes. Things I was told: Vehicle was running well with no check engine light on prior to timing belt breaking. Since I’ve taken possession of the car I have replaced the timing belt. The belt shows the appropriate amount of teeth, 44 to the passenger side, 40.5 to the driver side from crank notch. All the ears are present on the crank sprocket, I’ve lined the hash on the rear of the crank sprocket to the hash by the crank position sensor (approx. 12 o’clock) with the keyway facing down. I’ve lined the cam gears up with the belt, with the hash mark on the face of the gear facing upwards in the 12 o’clock position, in line with the notch in the timing belt cover. In this configuration the tdc triangle on the crank is in the 3 o’clock position, and the tdc arrows on the cams are up and to the right, 45 degrees clockwise from tdc. All pulleys, pumps, and idlers spin freely, tensioner is not leaking oil and takes a couple minutes in a vise to reset with a pin. I’ve had this timing belt on and off close to ten times, with at least 5 sets of eyes (all car guys and two professional mechanics) to verify timing. I’ve spun the crank multiple times and rechecked timing. Car has occasionally started, but starts hard and runs rough. While attempting to start, and performing the wot/clear cylinder procedure, and then applying half throttle, car pops and back fires violently. All of my experience leads me to believe the car is still out of time. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on this forum, I’m hoping one of you can point me in the right direction. I’ve working on cars my entire life, and have an entire professional mechanics shop at my disposal. Any advice would be appreciated.- 11 replies
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1990 Legacy L gotta luv watching the check engine light flash fun!! Code 22, improper knock sensor voltage. I got a new one. One mechanic told me that because it is a two wire device (not dependent on ground) I could just plug it in and not bolt it down. Is this correct? That did not seem to work. I spent two days doing the battery dance and playing with the diag connectors. I notice that the torque spec is quite specific at 16 ft/lb. Question: does the voltage change as the sensor is "squeezed"? Question 2: I remember a pic (can't find it again) of the "right" orientation. IIRC the manual calls for a 45 degree offset for the output wire. I plan on running it 45 degrees pointed toward the left fender, kinda pointing directly at the driver's seat. Any other opinions? I DO plan to put anti seize on the bolt threads, steel vs. aluminum etc. Thanx, Mike -
Hey There! My names Happy. I am a suburu lover with little mechanical skill asking some navigating questions. BASIC STORY: My car crashed, 98 Legacy L, 218,000 miles EJ22 Automatic tranny Needed too much maintenance on top of the raidiator and body work (new brakes, axle boot....more), though the engine and core components seemed fine. Sold it, eventually letting it go to good people for $400. Engine and Tranny seem great. My friend has a 98 Outback, 260,000 EJ25 Manual tranny As I read is common to those, he has burnt valves (not sure which). He's selling the car. Pretty good shape, needs a starter soon, clutch soon maybe. Big story summed up in a few words: these cars have history together, I got the one partially because I liked my friend's, they are the same color, there is some special spirituality stories that go with each of them them and make them like soul mates (long trippy story), and even my buyers had a link in the tale. TURNS OUT, the people that bought my car goofed and needed a different engine. They are waiting to sell it or part it. I believe my EJ22 can go in the 98 outback in place of EJ25. My basic navigating questions: Possible? Practical with those mileage levels? Any random things that might discourage me from trying to make that happen? If you could be hired to do that job, what would you estimate the labor charge? Thank you for your time :-) -
So since a quick search revelaed nothing on " tow bar" figured it was OK to start a thread. Figured with plenty of friend's who have trucks, and genrally doing all sorts of stupid things it would be a good idea to have tow bars on my subarus. Seems like it would make it a lot easier to get home if a buddy with a super duty could just hook up and tow me home VS calling a tow. ( at 300 miles between major towns tows get expensive) So the question : Anyone use a harbor freight tow bar on their Subaru ? I plan to use one on my 1993 2.2 legacy and my 1998 subaru outback legacy. This is the product I am looking at: http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb-capacity-adjustable-tow-bar-94696.html Thanks for looking and contributing. ( open thread so long as relatively on topic its good :0D ) -
So in short this is a road trip thread, and a thank you to all the forum members who have helped me keep this car alive, and prepare for this trip. She has gone from Montana to Arkansas to kentucky, To california, then to Washington, and most recently from washington to Alaska! Please note I only got pictures from Cali to Alaska , and neglected to take pictures from Cali to to wash while in my 98, ( this bit to address the trolls and knit pickers) Again. Thanks to all for the help I have been given keeping this car alive,
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Hey everyone. Ok, so I get off work one day, and figured I should stop and get engine oil and filter before I head home to do my standard maintinence on my 1995 legacy L. While I'm stopped in the parking lot, I'm noticing a large amount of smoke coming out of my engine bay. I turn off the vehicle and get out to look underneath. I find a very large amount of ATF leaking onto my cat. I immediately call for a tow truck so I can diagnose the issue at home. I've searched a huge amount of forums regarding the 4eat, leaks, problems, and so forth. I can't find much. Other than, by where the fluid is draining out, it's most likely my rear driveshaft seal. I was just wondering if anyone else has had this type of experience, or knows if it's even worth fixing. Thank you! -
Hello everybody! Just a little background on my situation. I stumbled across a 1990 legacy for 600 bucks. Guy said he put in new tranny and had the engine out to replace seals and gaskets. Well 380 miles into my trip I stop and find I've lost 3 quarts of oil. Holy cow! Get home and see the oil pan and passenger side of engine has a thick coat of oil along withe a few drips of oIL on the underside of the timing belt cover. What are your thoughts on what might be my issue? M valve cover gaskets are clean and I can see that they are new. -
But it is. Unfortunately. I'm sorry to ask but there is no one else in this world who has tried hard enough to get this to work. Unfortunately there is no spark. So here's the project. It's a EJ22T from a 93 Legacy (Auto) going into my 86 Brat (Manual) with a dual range 5 speed transmission from a 85 GL. I did not see this engine run as it was pulled out from a wrecking yard. Compression is solid. Only 165'000 km on the engine and it looks like it was dealership maintained. Everything is hooked up "properly" as so I've been told by what I would call "Subaru gurus". These are guys who have done numerous engine swaps before. Everyone has been amazingly enthusiastic, supportive and generous with this project as I could have imagined. It is all very much appreciated. However we can't figure out why shes not sparking. There is power to the coil. Coil has been checked of ohms and swapped out with three backups, they are all good. Plugs have been checked for ohms, they're good. Cam and Crank sensors have been checked for ohms, they are good and swapped again with checked and good sensors. Five grounds in the engine are good. ECU has been swapped three times and they are all good. It is grounded. Fuel pumps hard, fast and fresh. I'v had to replace a few connections due to old/dried out cracked wires but everything looks and tests good now! We're out of ideas now which is why I ask the godly experts of this board. Any thoughts or ideas are very much appreciated. Here are a couple galleries of the swap so far! http://imgur.com/a/EjDxS http://imgur.com/a/N6NzX -
I was driving down the freeway the other day and lost power steering and battery light came on. Pulled over and saw the main belt had come off.. crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer was wobbling all over the place. Got the car towed to my Grandpa's shop and took mostly everything apart. Does anyone have tips for removing this crankshaft sprocket? The woodruff key I believe broke in half and part of it is still on the crankshaft. We have tried almost everything in the book to get the crankshaft sprocket / gear off and it won't budge. This type of thing is a little bit out of my ballpark maintenance wise however I have a mechanic coming on Monday to check it out. If anyone has some tips on how we can get this sprocket off so we can check out the rest of the crank to make sure it's ok I would very much appreciate it. Thank you
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Started in on my newest project today, well thats not entirely true. I've had this 72 VW Westfalia for the last couple years, and it has actually been very good. I had to do quite a bit to it initially to get it up and going, new shocks, tune the carbs, fuel lines, tune the carbs, redo the front seats, tune the carbs, adjust valves all the usual plugs, points, wire, and tune the carbs. Overall its been a pretty dependable summer driver. The end of last season it started to develop a miss at idle, and I think the #3 valve seat is on its way out. So I was left with a few different options rebuild the anemic 1.7 gex boat anchor that came with this thing, rebuild the stock 1.7 I have in a box (either of these options leave me with fiddling with carburetors for the rest of my life) Or swap it. I decided to do the 2.2 as I already have done an ej swap on my brat, although the alh diesel swap was tempting... Here are some pics over the last couple of years of some of the work I have done to it. First day First mod! Reupholstered the seats Weekend of Stowe car show (the beetle I restored a while back, my friends mom purchased it) This summer I lifted it slightly, and added koni adjustables to it I had the curtains redone in the factory plaid. One of my camping adventures this summer And today, I dug into my 95 legacy parts car, no loss here, completely rusted out. It has a lot of miles, but if the engine ever has issues I'll simply swap in another, but it sounds great, and I drove it home. I'll be resealing it, and putting a new timing belt on along with coolant tubes before its swapped into the bus. I need to order an adapter plate this, along with a heavy duty clutch, and the engine can be put in place, and I'll start working on the harness here soon as well.
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So I can see there is a ton of information available (relatively) about swapping the EJ22 into EA81 Brats. Especially in that page on numbchuxconversions.com, makes it seem like a piece of cake. I want to swap an EJ22 and 5MT into my Brat out of an old legacy, but for some reason the very few I have been able to find in the area have the auto transmission, and if I don't start my Brat swap soon, it just isn't going to happen. I'm working on a budget, so I'm not about to start buying parts individually, I just want the whole car. I'm wondering how much more difficult it would be to use the EJ25 SOHC, because there are loads of those for sale around here for really good deals. I know about the head gasket issues, I'd of course take care of that before putting the motor in, just finished doing it on my 02 legacy. The Brat would absolutely fly with that 2.5, so my question is why does nobody use those? Is it significantly more difficult? Does it just not fit properly? Thanks guys.
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I have a custom built 1996 ej25 turbo that is broken. The crank pulley wobbles, knocking sound in the case. The motor is in my 1974 Westfalia conversion. That being said, Id like to replace it with a JDM. Im open to an ej20, ej22 or ej25. Id like to essentially do a long block swap with all my existing stuff, minus the turbo if need be. Is there a reference data base or web site of what motors and what years use the same exhaust manifolds/headers, same intake manifold bolt positions etc. etc.? Basically, do the heads have the same bolt patterns? Please advise -
Hello everyone I'm new to the forum, also new to the Subaru owner ship. I recently bought a 1995 Subaru impreza 2.2L, automatic with Ej22 engine, and 4dr. I got it really cheap and it was running fine and smooth. Recently it started leaking oil and it's dripping on the down pipe I think, and also power steering is leaking. But the thing is I don't know where the leak is coming from. If any of you ever had this problem please help me out narrowing it down so I know what to fix, and buy. I tried putting all info I could think of, and sorry if this had been asked before. Thank you for reading and hope I can get some help and guidance thank you. -
Hey Subie forum members, thankfully it has been a long time since I've needed your help, however this is serious. I took my car in for a smog check (in CA) two days ago, no she will not run. Need help. Full sequence of events below. 2 days prior to smog check: attempted to pass with aftermarket intake on car which did not pass component check but emissions were beautiful, 10-15% of allowed limits. Removed aftermarket intake and replaced with stock dual filter setup and all PCV hoses routed accordingly, didn't remember to disconnect battery to reset ECM. Drove for two days, minus a few HP, with no CEL or performance issues. I have a A/F ratio gauge in the center of dash (removed dash compartment) which showed typical readouts with needle bobbing in optimal range during cruising throttle positions, rich when I stepped on it and lean if i cut throttle until idle stable then bobbed optimal again. Smog Check: take it into local full service shop (reputable both by report of others and historically as they have aligned many of my cars and done exhaust work). it took about twice as long as usual but I believe they ran it twice just to make sure of the result. It failed emissions as gross polluter with excess hydrocarbon (unburned fuel) at idle only, 2500rpm test was still clean as a whistle. I get back in my car and fire it up and let it idle and low and behold the A/F gauge is nearly pinned rich. Nearly pinned as in way higher than I can get it to go by stomping the throttle under full load up a steep hill. But no CEL. I plugged in my code reader and cleared the DTCs just as a precaution, checked live data for any clear signs of sensor failure but all looked good. I opened intake and checked to make sure no obstruction was lodged in the intake, checked MAF connections, checked PCV system, checked intake for leaks, checked injectors for leaks- all were clear. I pulled out the primary filter without resetting the ECM to attempt to trick it into leaning out a little, took it for a test drive with no luck. Pulled the secondary filter right near the throttle body and it wouldn't run. Reinstalled the secondary filter and it ran but still rich at idle like before. Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner, let dry 5 min, reinstalled. CURRENT BEHAVIOR: Now car will not idle, can start it fires up to 1500 for about 2 sec then stalls out like but i can keep it going by pummping the gas and rev it up to 3-4k rpm, then if I hold the throttle at that position it will hold for roughly 5-10 seconds then drop off to stall unless I pump it back up, and repeat the dropoff to stall in 5-10 seconds. Thought I may have fried the MAF by not letting it dry, replaced, reset ECM, same status as above. My first thought is- WTF did these guys do to my car?! What are the next steps I should take? Check fuel pressure? (where is the valve?) Electronics? Any help is appreciated. Thanks -
like to say whats up first of all, never been a member on a forum so please forgive my noobness. i recently acquired a 2000 impreza L wagon to screw around drive to school and back and beat up. but i have had so much fun with it i want to keep and give it a better life than what it had in vermont. its got 125k on the clock and is rustier than all heck, i want to take it to a shop and get it check out to see if its still safe or worth investing money into it. the only thing i could think of making this subaru 10 more badass is turboing it. i wanna keep the whole sleeper and college kid look to it. http://www.automersion.com/2015/05/turbo-your-non-turbo-subaru-ej22/ i found this article and it fits what I'm planning to do. my only question is when it comes to getting a wrx header and up pipe and crossmember what years can i get. other than that how much would it cost time and money wise or a noob like me to get this project done or would it be cheaper and better to get it done else where thanks
