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Showing results for tags 'legacy'.
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So it sounds like the noise is coming from under my car. So i hit google for a bit and i think it might be my center carrier bearing? It might have dried out? Can i grease it with wheel bearing grease? I'll make a video tomorrow. -
Hey everyone, excited to be apart of this community. Looking forward to finding information to do my build, also to meet new people, being help and further along providing assistance to fellow members. Here's my wagon.
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I just bought a 2003 Legacy L on the 7th and I noticed the gauge cluster lights do not work but the clock and odometer do work and when I turn on the headlights or parking lights the lights in them dim, I have checked the Illumination fuse. The HVAC lighting works, no lighting in any door switches, the fuel low light does not work unless it was not low enough to come on. -
I had a rock thrown through my rear window last week. For the first time in a long time the Internet let me down. Very little information on how to remove and replace the rear glass on any car- never mind a Subaru. So here is my accounting of my experience. It should be mentioned that the real reason I did this is because the cost of the glass and the install fee was pretty crazy expensive. Min $650 and then $260 on top of that to install it never mind taxes. It took me most of the day to hack out the replacement glass from a salvaged hatch back, clean up the broken glass from the receiving car and glue it into place. A lot of work to be sure but I saved $900+ so, worth it in my opinion. Here is the before picture: The tools that really helped were a oscillating saw and guitar strings. Saw in action ( Look very closely for the little teeth) I used a medium sized blade on the saw. A 3/4" blade for wood. I really took my time and did not force it at any point. First thing I did was to remove the "SUBARU" bar and lights from the donor hatch. It would get in the way of the removal of the glass. I put a piece of foam to protect the glass. At times I had to lightly strap the hatch to my work table to stop it from moving. I used the oscillating saw to cut a hole for the guitar string. You have to use them like a pull saw. A handle on either side. Pull, pull,pull. I started with the largest E string and worked my way through a set of old strings, breaking them as I went. I went through almost a full set but finished with the second smallest string I had started using wrenches as handles but it was too hard on my hands so I made some wooden handles and drilled a small hole for the guitar string. I had to keep a eye out to not hack up the gaskets on the window. That being said there was some damage done to the seals. Not enough to worry about but it would have been nice to pull the window cleanly. FINISHED! One of the surprises were these plastic plugs that had to be cut through with the wire The hardest part of this project was removing the glass intact from the donor hatch. It took a long time. You have to be careful of the defrost connectors and the seal on the donor glass. I took hours. Cleaning up the urethane caulking on the glass was fast and easy on the glass side with the oscillating saw!! Like 60 seconds!!! Not so much on the car side. I would strongly recommend safety glasses as the splinters shoot into your face as you cut away the glass impregnated glass with the oscillating saw. I also damaged the paint on my car with the saw. I was not too worried as it would be covered my the glass, but it still meant another trip to the hardware store. I could not find the perfect match of paint either. Again. Not worried as it would be covered. I masked the SUBARU bar and some lights with tape. Sprayed a couple of coats of paint on the bare areas while I tried to get my seized window wiper nuts removed. (Penetrating oil and a wire brush). I was lucky to have a glass shop 6 blocks away. They sold me this urethane caulking I think that you have you use the urethane caulking in one go. The glass shop recommended that you lay a bead the size of 3/8" or 5/16". I considered taping the glass into place as it dried but It was the end of the day and the glass seemed to fit snugly. The window wiper nut held everything in place as well. The "After" Picture. I don't think you could do this job without the guitar strings or other string-like cutter. You could use other cutting devices for the caulking removal and clean up - but I really liked the oscillating saw. (I got mine at Canadian tire on sale for like $30) A sharp chisel and utility knife would do in a pinch. Just remember to take your time and don't force things and it all should work out.
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I just bought a 97 Legacy 2.2L and started having the AT Oil Temp light flashing 16 times at start up. So first I did the transmission fluid flush myself. I tried to put in 10, 15, and 20 amp fuse in the FWD slot but nothing comes on even though that dash light flashes on startup so I know the light bulb in dash is fine. Today I reset the error code by removing fuse 14. After replacing the fuse and starting the car, the AT Oil light doesn't flash 16 times but once I restart without even driving the car, the flashing 16 times reoccurs. Please help me address these questions if possible and much appreciated: 1. Why doesn't the FWD light come on with fuse in? 2. Since the error code(TCU error 24 I pulled previously from handshake) comes back immediately after ECU/TCU reset without put the car in drive, does it mean it's an electrical issue? i.e. bad TCU, or could it still be the solenoid that's bad? 3. How do I check the connection from the solenoid to TCU? Thanks in advance. -
I recently bought a Subaru, and on the way home from driving it, I felt an odd wobble coming from what I thought was the back right wheel. It shook the whole rear of the car, but eventually tapered off. The wobble returned on higher speeds (65-75mph). I thought they were just the junk tires on them, but was diagnosing some other things at the shop and am lead to believe it's a bad drive shaft going into the rear differential. The car is an automatic, and I noticed it also kicks when shifting as it gets up to speed, especially up hills. I jacked the car up on all fours and turned it on, put it in drive and tried to replicate the sound. It's like a clanking sound. The one forum I found on this type of stuff was this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128947-loud-banging-noise-felt-vibration-from-tunnel-area/ but before I try all of their troubleshooting I was going to see if anyone could pick out the sound first. Is the clanking sound happening because the car is moving with no force against the tranny, and it's in a sense, looser? Or is it the U-Joints making the noise because they're worn? Any help would be appreciated, I like this forum a lot and could see myself learning a lot from you guys, any help is appreciated! Thanks, Robert Suby.wmv -
I have a 91 Legacy wagon which has been having startup issues on occasion. I usually manage to get it started by attempting to start it with my foot on the gas pedal, but when it starts it usually sputters for awhile and often turns off again. When I just turn the key in the ignition prior to starting it, I always hear a humming sound, and I wonder if that sound is related to or indicates the fuel pump may be going bad? Also whenever I drive the car it often has trouble accelerating especially after I've stopped at a stoplight. I just had the oil changed and had the fuel filter replaced and fuel system cleaned at the shop 3 days ago, and they also did diagnostics. But they didn't say anything about a faulty fuel pump, or maybe they didn't even consider it. Either way this all cost me over $300 already, so I just wonder if anyone has any ideas or suggestions before I spend any more money. Thank you all. -
I want to turbo my 2005 Subaru Legacy 3.0r. I just want to know if it is worth it and wether it is possible. I was hoping that i might be able to use an sti set up and work off that. I only want to put out about 10-12 Psi and hoping that it will increase the performance quite a bit. I would also like to know roughly how much it might cost to manufacture some of the custom parts and what might be needed to do this conversion. -
I have a 2008 Subaru Legacy with about 57K miles on it. Recently, I've noticed a slight grinding sound whenever I accelerate, particularly when the car reaches certain speeds. The sound appears to be coming from under the car near the front. It is most noticeable when the car is around 25 to 30 mph but I can hear it slightly at some other speeds also. There is no sound when slowing down or braking... and this happens when going straight. Does this point to a problem with the transmission? I had the transmission oil changed (and front/rear differential fluids) about 4 years ago when the car had 34K on it. Should I get another transmission oil change or what else do you recommend? Thanks -
Hi all, first time posting, seems like a great community. The problem: I have a 2001 Subaru legacy L. It has 190K on it, mostly highway miles. It needs its head gaskets done, but I just took it into a shop and the repairman said it wasn't looking too bad, they were seeping but not leaking. Driving home from work yesterday it started to overheat for the first time, temperature gauge got up to H but did not redline. Managed to coast pretty much all the way home (downhill) and let it sit in my driveway for awhile. Checked the oil and coolant levels and they both appear to be fine. Oil is maybe a tad high (slightly above F). Took off the radiator cap (with engine cool) and it bubbled and then was still. It seems like there are little copper flecks in there, not sure what those are from or what they indicate. Don't seem to see any of the notorious white sludge in my coolant that would indicate that the head gaskets have blown. Recently (May) replaced the radiator and thermostat, so I wouldn't think those would be the problem, although I'm not too sure on the longevity of thermostats. Looking for some help on diagnosing the problem! Might just be time to go get the head gaskets done? Thanks for any help! -
My legacy brighton doesn't have a tachometer. So I went to pick and pull and pulled a cluster out from another vehicle with a tachometer. I installed it and everything seemed to go okay until I drove home and had no speedometer. So I pulled my old speedometer out (thinking it was a loose connection in the back) and switched it with my new one. The speedo worked but now the tach did not. I'm wondering what the problem is with the wiring? Do I need to wire the tach through the speedo? Or should I try putting the tach in my old cluster?- 2 replies
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Hi what is the confirmed type of oil needed to be used with a 2015 Subaru Legacy 3.6R? I rolled into Valvoline instant oil change and was sold MaxLife Oil Change with Valvoline Oil Filter VO113 & Valvoline 5W30 MaxLife Oil API SN and 6 guarts synthetic. but i am looking at a chart showing the 4-cylinder does synthetic but the 3.6R that i have does conventional with a 6k mile interval. which one is right? i dont want to waste $70 on synthetic oil and go 10k miles if it isnt right or if its going to hurt the car. thanks dave -
Hi all, I bought a 1990 Legacy wagon from a frustrated former owner who couldn't get it to keep running. I replaced the fuel pump and FP relay (kinda challenging to reach) and it acted much better, but still dies occasionally. I figured out that the fuel pump circuit would stop powering the fuel pump for some reason and the POWER light for the AT would start flashing. So I straight wired the fuel pump with a fused circuit and it ran better, but she still dies although not as often. As Grandpaw said "Beer and patience conquers anything". I have found out that bykeeping the AT in manual mode and keeping the RPMs above 2100 it seems to keep running. It kills my gas mileage but it's better than the 6MPG Ford F250 and this techniquedoesn't work on the back roads I have to run often. I'm suspecting the TPS and will test it according to the Chilton manual this evening. Please let me know your thoughts and thanks in advance. -
I am swapping cruise control into an '01 Legacy L / Brighton, and I need some help troubleshooting the completed install. What I've done so far: - Install cruise main switch, steering wheel controls, actuator and cruise computer - Wire cruise actuator through firewall to cruise computer - Wire cruise computer to all respective wires in the vehicle according to the wiring diagram (this was quite a procedure) - Wired in new 4-wire brake and clutch pedal switches and confirmed it has continuity when no pedals are pressed - Tested and verified all switches, bulbs, ignition power sources, etc - Then I plugged in the cruise module and tried it out, and the light on the cruise control main switch will not come on when I press it (I'm assuming it means 'enable the cruise system'). - I have checked fuse 18 and 15, and backprobed all points from the switch and the bulbs to check that the module genuinely isn't responding, but is otherwise powered. My issue is as follows: The cruise enable switch on the dash does not light up when pressed. Bulb works, switch works, power goes to the cruise module, what else do I check?? UPDATE The cruise module wasn't enabling because the sub-switch output to pin 10 of the cruise module was wired at connector B68 by wire-color and not by pin number. On my particular vehicle (Legacy Brighton L), the wire colors on the steering-wheel side of that harness are incorrect and/or mislabeled in either the vehicle or the wiring diagram. Doing this by pin number means that the cruise module now powers on, and the correct 12v signal is seen at the module when the set, resume and cancel buttons are operated, respectively. The issue now is that it will not set cruise, when driving over 40km/h - the switches do not do anything. I need to troubleshoot whether something is inhibiting the cruise system from setting, or whether it is trying to set the cruise, but the actuator is not working. Any ideas are welcome. Please let me know what you guys think is the best next-step to take to get this working. Some photos of the progress Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4 Image 5 -
Purchase a 95 legacy for my son for 300 bucks. Was told the clutch is gone. I cannot engage the gears (with the engine running), but can with the engine shutoff. Did make some funky sounds when I was messing with it...so not sure if it was partially in gear. We plan to pull the engine and replace the clutch and lots of other seals, etc. Is there any way you guys could think of to test the transmission to make sure it is ok? I really don't want to bolt the engine back up to find out that the gearbox is rubbish. My thoughts: 1) Changing the gearbox oil. This is good PM anyway but would be a good way to look for any signs of metal/evil in the oil. 2) Place car on jackstands once engine is removed...place in gear and rotate tires. Make sure input shaft is turning and no evil sounds are occuring. 3) Prayer Let me know if you have any other ideas / or if my ideas are not sound. Thanks in advance. Tom -
Hello USMB Members! We recently received some interest in our EJ - EA Oil Adapter lines and would like to do a special deal with the USMB community! You can view our EJ2EA results here If members (on this forum specifically) generate enough interest for this product, we would be happy to not only restock them, but also give a great deal on the price! (To everyone who contacts me on USMB). If anyone interested would shoot me a PM or post on this thread so I can get a head count, I'd be happy to get the order going so we can send them out ASAP! We should be updating them on our website soon (NWRallySports.com). Thanks and hope you like our products! -NWRS
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I am currently swapping an ej22 out of a 1992 legacy into my 1990 Loyale. Everything is done except the wiring. i got my harness from SJR, i currently have the 3 yellow wires labeled hot in run and start and hot at all times wired directly to the battery (Just temporarily). the black and red wire labeled fuel pump is wired to the blue and white wire from the old fuel pump relay ( the fuel pump was working but its not anymore) the alternator is wired up to the original wires from the vehicle. (The charge light was flashing while cranking but its not anymore) the wires labeled starter, trans, coolant, fan. radiator, select monitor, oil pressure, ac, check engine, and tach are not currently connected to anything my question is with this current setup is there a way to get it started it currently cranks over fine and the fuel pump was pumping but there is no spark im a little lost at why there is no spark and what happened to the fuel pump i know grounding could be an issue but i don't really know where to start, does the ecu need to be grounded and if so how also i don't know if there is a minimum voltage the battery needs to get everything going it currently has 12.36 volts i have read through several other peoples threads including numbchux, but im running out of things to try, the engine ran fine right before we pulled in out of the donor vehicle i suck at electrical so any help is greatly appreciated thanks
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My 98 Legacy has a constant ringing noise coming from the engine, which becomes louder as the RPMs rise. I've attached a video of the noise at idle; I suspect it is from the pulleys, but I'd like a second opinion. is the video. -
Anyone have a fix for this issue that these seem to have? My passenger side I wiggle the wires a little and it comes on the drivers side goes out. I just got the car but I had this issue on my 01 legacy gt. I'm going to try contact cleaner and that gel stuff they try to sell you at the store. -
Hello. So my friend did an engine swap on his 1990 Subaru Legacy. During the change the shaft came out of the torque converter. Now, when we start the car there is a clunking kind of noise. Any suggestions on what can be causing that noise or how to fix it would be so helpful. Are there any spline alignments in the engine?
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While putting the engine into my '01 Forester 4EAT I failed to properly seat the TC and ended up damaging the pump in the auto trans. I've been looking at various options. Namely: either taking the pump apart and fixing it or replacing the pump, or putting another transmission into it. I bought a used '98 Forester trans (TZ103ZJ1AA-L1) without realizing that it was (mostly?) incompatible. I could exchange the '98 Forester transmission for one out of a '00 Outback Wagon. Are they compatible? I know the final drive ratios are the same and the transmission will likely bolt right up to the engine, but what about the electronics? Will the driveshaft from my Forester fit with the OBW trans? Will my Forester starter fit on the OBW trans? Are the gear ratios similar? How will the OBW trans in the Forester affect things like the speedo reading accurately? The information: '01 Forester 4EAT with about 174k (Trans replaced at 89k) Trans # TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8 '00 Outback Wagon (milage unknown. Reason for ending up in the junkyard unknown, but it wasn't a collision) Trans # TZ1A4ZCABA I'd hate to go through the trouble of getting the Outback transmission only to find out it won't work in my Forester. Any help is greatly appreciated! -
I have a 2002 Legacy Wagon with a bad crank bearing. Has 290k miles and had a HG at 218k. What year 2.2 engine will swap easily and any suggestions as to where to find a good 2.2 engine? Love this car and don't want to part with if possible. -
Hello, As per bio I'm roadtripping through North America in my 1999 Legacy Outback. When I was in British Columbia, the seat heaters were really useful early in the mornings, and only came on when I switched them on. Now I'm in New Mexico, they've decided to stay on all the time and it's really not ideal! Because I don't need seat heat for now, I'm happy just to disable it. Sadly, per the manual, the same fuse guards the seat heaters *and* the cigarette lighter/accessory socket, which I don't want to lose the use of. I found connections under the seat (see pic) but am not sure which one to pull - I guess one is the heater power and the other is the switch and/or a feedback to a thermostat. Can I just pull both? Will the disconnect confuse and then damage any relays &c? Alternator burnt out in Cali a few weeks back (middle of the PCH!) so I'm slightly cautious on the electrics, perhaps needlessly. Further on, any ideas why the switch no longer controls the heater would be most welcome. Thanks, from someone who's backside is slowly broiling! // Tom PS: For pointless conjecture, why on earth wire the heaters and the socket together when there are two empty spaces in the same fuse rack??
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Hey y'all, about to do a EJ22 swap into my Loyale,with the EA82 transmission. I have the re-drilled EA82 flywheel and i'm going to use the XT6 pressure plate and clutch disk(Correct?) my question is whether i should use the XT6 release bearing or an EA82 one?
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So, I just got my derby car. 92 matte black legacy, fwd ej22. Ej22 will go into my impreza, and ej18 into the legacy, because why not That is after I get it running. But now to the title, I need design ideas. The number will be 555. But the paint scheme is where I have debate. My ideas were 1: Keep it 2: WRC colors 3: A tribute to the bumblebeasts, radioactive yellow with the black stripe, as a shoutout to all the help JeZek has given so many of us 4. Fighter jet open mouth with olive drab green This is the car, got it for $200, couldn't not get it. Pic in the p/o driveway. Kid wasn't happy when he found out what I'm using it for, lol Help me design it!
