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Showing results for tags 'transmission'.
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Many posts in this forum re what ATF works in Subaru trannys; and other makes. Subaru says for my 2008 Outback, must be their ATF-HP. Please search site below for possible replacement with even better performance: https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/automatic-transmission-products/maxlife-multi-vehicle-atf click on PI SHEET. Subaru ATF-HP and HP appear as backward compatible. I read thru the Valvoline specs, and it exceeds all those listed in the PI sheet in resistance to breakdown at high temperatures = life span. I first encountered the problem with a TOYOTA TUNDRA 2011 ATF change. Toyota changed OEM specs on approved xmission fluid to avoid penalties from Euro 'green' laws, extending the recommended miles before ATF replacement necessary to 100,000 miles. This is a fantasy. But to enforce the 'saving' of hydrocarbon usage, Toyota also took away the tranny drain tube/plug and replaced it with a stand-pipe in the sump that retains a high level of ATF even when the 'drain' (hahaha) plug is opened. You need special equipment to fully drain/replace the ATF. When I drained / replaced with Valvoline at 80,000 miles, the ATF was black as coal, and up-shifts were hanging and shuddering. At 100,000 suspect xmission would have been toast. Replacement with Valvoline restored smooth shifts, and added 2 MPG to efficiency. (Well, improved from 12 mpg to 14: but if ya gotta pull a 6000 lb trailer, you're gonna need a V8, right?) -
The input shaft holder seems to be on there pretty well, I cannot pry it off with a screwdriver. Can I replace the oil seal for the transmission from here? edit: the video may be upside down. -
I've had a few '95 Legacies with the EJ22 over the years. One made it to 386,000 (MT), another died of a freak headgasket problem a little after 200k, and my current one (AT) is at 387,500 or so. The transmission was replaced with a used one about 200,000 miles ago. The clutch pack started having problems a couple of years ago, so I've been running it in FWD for a while. The shifting has been getting wonky over the last year or so - i.e. sometimes won't come out of first gear, and the speedometer doesn't move, then suddenly will shift just fine. The problem is that I've been telling my wife for years that these engines never die, can go for 500,000 miles . . . I think it will be time to move on when the transmission finally goes. She says we should just put another one in. Given the age/mileage of salvage yard transmissions at this point, plus the cost and overall age of the vehicle, I think it will be time to retire the car. As much as I'd love to keep it going forever, I feel like it's reached the age where it's time to enact a DNR for anything major. What do y'all think? -
I have a weberized 85 Brat with the 3 speed auto transmission. After a couple months I finally got it running. It idles kinda rough and i have to keep the timing fully retarded (literally) or it will stall out, but it does idle. I believe that there are no vacuum leaks so it shouldn't be that. My main problem is that it idles at about 1K and revs fine, but as soon as its put in gear the RPMs drop to about 500 and it splutters and shakes. If i give it any gas at all while its in drive or reverse it dies, no matter what i do. It seems as soon as a load is being put on the tranny/engine it dies. Does anybody know what would be causing this?
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I have a 88(I think) dual range transmission with a blown ring and pinion. Instead of buying a new ring and pinion from subaru for $500 I picked up a gently used 93 manual push button transmission($100) with the intention of taking the ring and pinion out of that. The transmission is perfectly fine except that I would be better off with the dual range on my rig. So my question is, would it be possible to just swap the transfer case on the end of the transmission? They seem to be the same size, and it would make the project much easier. Thanks for the help. And just for kicks I have an 88 Gl-10 4" lift ej22 swap -
Trying to tighten up my shifter on four speed 85 BRAT. Wear seems to be shifter attaches to rod connected to transmission. I see a roll pin connecting to the rod. number 15 in image has the connection. Any suggestions for tightening this connection?
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Hi All, My 2014 Subaru Forester has been hesitating when cold and at low speeds and now hesitates, shakes and sounds like I am driving over a washboard under a variety of different conditions, especially at high speeds or when engine is under strain. I have read about this problem for other owners and am surprised I cannot find anything on this topic on this forum. I need help! I have enjoyed this car up until now, but now I am really worried! All comments and thoughts will be appreciated! Rob -
Hi, The transmission in my 2008 Outback 2.5i LTD is completely shot. (It failed as soon as I arrived here in Redondo Beach, CA after driving from New Orleans with my two kids!) . My trusted mechanic is back in New Orleans. I am told that this transmission is hard to find, and that it will run about $3,300 to rebuild it, but that he doesn't recommend doing that. He recommends getting a new transmission from the dealer and having him install it for a total of about $4,200. Does this make sense? First of all it seems really expensive, and I am also not sure how much longer I should expect to be able to drive this car, although I have loved it so far. -
I have a 1991 Subaru Legacy L with the standard 4-speed automatic transmission with lock up. Duty solenoid B within the transmission is responsible for the lock up however it's been failing or not working at all for a little while and when it does work it is weak. The transmission could probably use a good flush but I don't know if that would solve my problem at all Maybe the weak problem but I'm not sure if there is a short or something causing the transmission to not lock up or if Duty solenoid B is just dead. -
So i have a 1998 Subaru conversion from gears to an forester version 6 automatic. I bought the car that way and it ran very well for 3 yrs. changed the head and block last weekend, used the same transmission - thought the converter did give a little problem to go in - the head of the shaft had widened a bit. anyways .. it's all fixed in, started ,, gone for a test run & the gear is stuck in 3. it's not changing. and the power light keeps blinking. need some help ! -
Hi. Newbie posting, so please bear with me and hopefully I've included all pertinent information. Vehicle is a 1998 Legacy Outback with auto transmission. 290k miles with a new engine about 90k miles ago and rebuilt tranny about that same time. Fluids/maintenance done regularly. College kids car. Daughter came home from college the other day and said the vehicle is making a strange sound. Not obnoxious at all, but she has driven the car for years and knows it sounds and feel, and noticed this noise which started about a month or so ago. As best as I can describe it, the sound is kind of a waah waah waah repeating sound, kind of a circular repeating sound. Take a clock for instance, if one was to rotate the minute hand and every time the hand passed between say 12 and 1, it would transmit this 'waah' sound. Car runs fine. Engine runs strong. Transmission shifts fine. The sound can be heard when in Park and idling, as well as when driving. Also heard it in Reverse. Got under the car, and the sound seems to be coming from the area in which the bell housing connects to the engine. I shot a short video/audio from under the area of the bell housing/engine where the sound is emanating, Not the most tech savvy here, couldn't get the video uploaded, but posted it out on youtube so if you wouldn't mind referencing that link, I would be most appreciative: youtu.be/9jbAaPBpd5k With that long winded story in mind, would anyone have any ideas as to what this might be? Don't want to send her back to school with it should it be something serious. Thanks in advance! And big thanks to those that have responded already -
Hey there, I've been visiting for a while to read the threads for advice with my car but just signed up to actually join the conversation. Thanks to all the folks with the experience on here that post on these threads--I cant tell you how many times one of your threads has led me to figure out whats up with my car. Transmission related question for whoever's out there: I drive a 1997 legacy outback with +/-45k miles on a second engine and pushing 250,000 miles on the original transmission. I have pretty bad torque bind that is very apparent in turns. Transmission shifts fine, minus the occasional late or slightly hard shift and the car drives smooth. Question is this: Do i spend the money to replace the Duty C Solenoid and and the Clutch Pack or do I spend a bit more and replace my 250,000 mile trans with a 30-60k mile JDM trans? (All work is my own--so only real consideration is the price of parts) I was just going to fix it until i realized that the parts I'm looking for come out to about half the price of a JDM transmission. (Maybe im looking in the wrong places but solenoid=$130 and clutch pack=$120-200, does that sound right?) I'm a bit attached to this car--Its been a project for me--so getting rid of it is not an option. Thanks in advance for your advice. -
Background: Struts are all newish, brakes recently serviced, new inner/outer tie rods, new ball joints, new FCAR bushings, wheels rebalanced, recent alignment. Symptoms: Faint clunking noise at low speeds while accelerating. Shaking at 60 mph, felt like unbalanced wheel, except we just had them rebalanced. Back story: I've been chasing an issue with the passenger's front wheel on our 1999 Forester for a few months now. The car is closing in on 200k miles and I had just finished replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends on the car when I noticed the passenger's side front control arm rear bushing was pretty badly torn. I replaced that bushing, got an alignment, then my wife tells me that the car is shaking on the highway. OK, wheels must be out of balance, so we get them rebalanced. No change. I do the wheel shake test and I felt some play, so let's take a look at the wheel bearing. Wheel and brakes removed, I can feel some clunking as I turn the hub. The driver's side feels smooth when rotated, but there is obviously something wrong with the passenger's side. I get the passenger's side spindle assembly on the bench expecting to find some grumbling and play, but it feels pretty smooth in rotation, with no axial or radial play. So I grab the halfshaft and rotate it. The clunking is still present, but it doesn't feel like it's coming from the CV or DOJ. I supposed it could be either of those parts, but I get the feeling that the passenger's side differential carrier bearing is going south. Question: I've read a lot about Subaru transmissions over the years and that if not reassembled properly with the correct backlash and bearing preload, they will fail again in pretty short order. As I see it, we've got a few options on how to proceed: 1) Rebuild the original transmission - Has to go to a shop and could get expensive with labor and, "while we're in there" incidentals, rebuild could re-fail 2) Replace original transmission with a good used one - I can do this, no problem, but I worry about getting a bad used transmission 3) Sell the car and find the wife a new vehicle - Since our Forester is a the bottom of it's depreciation curve right now, does it really make sense to sink $600-3,000 into a vehicle that's only worth $4,000 tops? Looking for opinions, experiences, etc. If you've got a nice, used transmission, I'm all ears too! -
I just bought a 97 Legacy Outback. It's my first Subaru and first automatic transmission. I'm noticing some strange behavior from the transmission and I can't seem to put together the right keywords to find anything about it. When I'm at a stop (at a light or in traffic) I can feel the transmission engage suddenly and try to pull the car forward. It doesn't happen all the time, but I'll be holding the brake for a while and then the transmission will kick in, the RPMs drop, and if I'm not on the brake hard enough the car will start driving forward as if I'm pressing the gas. It can't be good for the transmission to be fighting to drive while I'm fighting to hold it in place. I've been reading up on torque converters, but I don't have much experience with autos. Any ideas? -
I have a 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero (WRX) 141,000 miles, completely stock, with the 4EAT automatic. Under full throttle, at about 70 mph, it will shift from 3rd to neutral (and redline) rather than shift to 4th. I must let off the throttle and give it a few seconds to find 4th gear when this happens. Under normal acceleration, it has no problem going from 3rd to 4th gear. I have just replaced the transmission fluid and filter (using genuine Subaru stuff) and still the problem persists. I have never driven anything with an automatic transmission before and really don't know where to start with this, it is also difficult for me to find anything on the web about this exact problem, so any help would be appreciated. Thank you! -
I am hoping for some positive news here..... I have a 08 2.5i Impreza 5spd manual with 135K miles. I bought the car used in 2010 and had to replace the clutch about a year ago (110K miles). The replacement was done by a Suby dealer. This was the first clutch I have ever replaced in any of my cars including previous VW (15+ years driving a manual). In recent weeks, my fiance has been taking my car to work. About a week ago, the yard at his job was a mud bog. He said the car was stuck about up to the frame. But he managed to get the car out (AHHHH SERIOUSLY). Earlier today he spent hours trying to get the car out of the snow/yard in PA. When I went outside, the car smelled like a pile of tires smoldering. A few hours later, I was going to go to the store and found out I couldn't. The car shifts into all the gears easily. But when in 1st or R and trying to drive, the wheels WON'T move. The rpms don't act like a slipping clutch though. There are no odd sounds either. I am floored that the clutch may be bad. I drove the car about 2 weeks ago for the day and the clutch seemed fine. It wasn't spongy, no odd noise when shifting and it seemed to catch fine. I am hoping there is something else that could be wrong. (PLEASE TELL ME THERE IS) But I don't expect this to be a cheap fix. Would 2x of trying to drive a car out of being stuck cause the clutch to go in a week? I would expect a diff to may be the problem. But would that keep the wheels from engaging? Any help or guidance is appreciated. -
I have a 1987 GL 4-door wagon with push button 4WD. It has a 3-speed auto trans, A/C, Carb, 1.8L, all power options. When searching for transmissions at car-part dot com, I see FWD or AWD. Under descriptions provided by the wrecking yard, I see 2WD, 4WD, FWD, and AWD. I know that 1987 had both 4WD and AWD, carburetor and fuel injection. 1) Was there such a thing as a FWD (no 4WD button) during 1985 - 87? 2) Which transmission do I need? 3) Does anyone have a good used one with torque converter for sale that will ship, preferably in the pacific northwest? Thanks
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Hello All, New to these forums and looking for some 4eat advice. I have a recently acquired a 1991 Subaru Legacy wagon with the automatic transmission (142,000 miles). After a week of local daily driving, I've noticed a couple things regarding the transmission. Most interested in thoughts on #2. 1) This week the 16-flashing POWER light deal on the dash happened. Went through the process to determine code...TCU code 22 - Atmospheric sensor. Unfortunately, not a solenoid that can be replaced from what I gather, but actually has to do with the ECU. Checked the OBDI engine codes, no corresponding ECU atmospheric sensor fault (would be code 45). After a full reset of the ECU/TCU (pulling fuse 14 from the driver side kick panel) this has gone away (for now). 2) However, despite the TCU POWER indicator not coming on after the reset, I am still experiencing my primary cause for concern. From a stop, upshift from 1-2 has a little "thud" (not too unusual for the 4EAT from what I gather). Then upshift from 2-3 is smooth, BUT, there is an acceleration lag after the shift before the car starts forward again (I have NOT let off the accelerator pedal at all). It doesn't last long, but it's obvious and annoying. It seems to become less pronounced the longer I drive the car. 3) Fluid looks brand new, reddish and clear, not burnt or brown looking at all. It is however above the high mark on the HOT side after driving the car and go through all the gears while on a level surface. Any thoughts on these issues, particularly #2? My plan is to drop the transmission pan, replace the filter, add new fluid, as well as replace the inline transmission filter located near the coolant reservoir. Could it be something to do with the brake band and if so, go tighter or looser? Is there cause for concern here? Thanks(!) in advance for your time and thoughts. Matt -
saw this nice pdf about the CVT on "another Forum" www.atra.com/Webinars/Import/Subaru_Lineartronic_CVT_Introduction.pdf http://www.atra.com/Webinars/Import/Subaru_Lineartronic_CVT_Introduction.pdf (ugh - don't seem to be able to edit spelling error in thread title) -
I've got a transmission that seems to shift fine until it hit 3rd, then it slips. When I bought the car it slipped in most gears, I drained the oil twice thinking they may of mixed the wrong oil in from the diff. After the second time it is much better but still slips as mentioned. So, drain and fill again or take it to a tranny shop to see if the can figure out if she's shot or if it is just a solenoid. Comments,suggestions? Thanks -
I have a 2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0i Sport Limited (automatic CVT) that I am having some problems with the front differential. A little background… I was driving fairly aggressive for 1-2 hours and the “AT Temp” light came on. I the slowed the vehicle exited at the next exit (~8 km) and turned it off to cool. The next day I was driving about 70 mph (~110 km/h) when the vehicle had a sudden jerk and vibrated aggressively. The rpms dropped to ~2000 and would not go higher. I pulled over and smelt something burning. The vehicle now makes a grinding clunking sound under the car when putting the foot on the accelerator. It sounds almost like loose grinding wheel bearings and is coming from the diff/transmission area. At first I thought it was the CVT... But I drained the CVT fluid and there were no signs of metal debris and color looked good. I then drained the front differential and there was fine metal debris on the magnet. I put new fluid in and drove the vehicle 25 miles (~40 km). The sound diminished some, but is still there. I drained the fluid again and it was littered with superfine metal flakes smaller then glitter. I found one piece of metal as thin as a razor blade and about 8mm x 3mm attached to the magnet. I planned on selling the vehicle this month prior to the mishap... so I’m trying to determine my options. My brother is a mechanic and we can do the work. The problem is we can’t find a front differential. It seems that everyone wants to sell the differential with the transmission. My question(s) to the forum are: Does this sound like the front differential needs to be completely replaced? Or is it perhaps an easier repair? If replacement its needed… does the transmission also need to be replaced or can a guy just do the diff? Can any more harm be done if I keep driving the vehicle and ignoring the sound it makes? What are the consequences? Much appreciated!! -
Hi all! Just got my first Subaru it is a 2009 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport that I recently picked up. So far it has been going great but I will notice something and can't figure out what exactly is wrong or if there is a problem to begin with. When driving I will step on the gas to accelerate and get up to 30-mph the Tachometer will rev up to about 2500-3000 until i get up to speed if I let off the gas pedal it will immediately drop down to 1000 rpm then back on the gas and back up. Just wondering what is wrong if their is a problem I will be getting the transmission fluid swapped soon as well if that will help. It is an automatic transmission as well. Thanks ahead of time everyone!! -
Just like the title says - I'm in need of a new rear diff for my manual transmission '03 Forester. I'm really hoping to find one at a junkyard, but I'm not confident I'll find an exact match anywhere nearby so I'm hoping to get a list of vehicles that would have a compatible part. Thanks in advance for any help! Edit: First junkyard I called did a little digging and suggested that my rear diff can be found on '03 through '08 models. I'm not 100% sure whether that's only the non-turbo models. -
Hi, I have a 2010 2.0 turbodiesel Legacy wagon with 175k km that I bought one year ago. It has a complete service record and has been maintained on schedule from the same garage since new. It's parked outside and gets driven about 4-5 times per month. Lately it won't shift into 1st or 2nd at startup, or until the engine/transmission is warm. That's about 10 minutes. I tried the tricks I know from my old Land Rover. Double-clutching doesn't help. Shifting into 3rd while stopped and then trying 1st or 2nd also doesn't work (this works on a Land Rover with a dragging clutch). There's no apparent grinding; the lever just won't move. For the two times I've driven it in this condition, I've used 3rd to get going the first time, and once underway I was able to select 2nd, and 1st once I slowed way down. (Then I just left it in 1st with my foot on the clutch, so I could get going again). It can select all gears easily when cold if the engine is turned off. I ensured that the clutch pedal goes to the floor. The clutch fluid reservoir is full and clean. The transmission oil is full and black and apparently has 20k km on it. The air temperature is below 5 C when this happens, but last winter it never happened, not even below freezing. Is this a known issue with these transmissions or clutches? What should I look at, clutch or gearbox? What would you recommend? Thanks, Jeremy in Switzerland -
Longtime lurker, first time poster. I have a 1999 Subaru Outback 2.5 130K miles. For about 2 months, I have had the AT temp light flashing constantly at random times and not in any pattern (not on startup! maybe about an 20 min to hour into the drive). My wife, when I was out of town and trying to make less work for me, took it to the dealer and they did a $750 trans flush (!!!) where they 'removed the pan to check for shavings'. This didn't help the issue, btw. After I gathered myself and calmed down, I found the handshake procedure for reading the TCM codes. I got a 76. This told my I had a incomplete circuit in the Transfer clutch solenoid. I put the FWD fuse in there and no light on dash and we're still stuck in AWD. I hadn't really noticed binding in turns, but now that I am trying to get it to bind, I do feel some and it's definitely still got lots of grip. Sorry for the long post, here comes the questions... because I have a 76 code, this is a Phase II 4EAT trans (also have external filter). The Phase II 4EAT version2 (that is the only info I can find online) has this solenoid accessible in the trans pan but looks like it starts being used in 2002. I can only assume I have Phase II 4EAT verson#1? and the Solenoid is in the tail end of the trans? So I need to take off the tail end of the trans and access it there? Is 2500 miles driving locked up enough to damage the transfer clutch and should I plan on servicing that while I have it out? OR Is it an opportunity to 'upgrade' and find a newer and better trans (like from an 03 or 04) and if so, which best, coolest option should I look for that will work easily in my 1999? Thanks for any opinion you folks can provide and thanks for all the past help. T
