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Ok so I cant find anything in my two soobie owners manuals about it so I thought I would ask the awesome soobie geeks on the fourms about it. My question is, do the older gen subarus have a breather tube or a vent for the transmission? or is the dipstick hole the vent? And if they do have a vent where is it?
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hey guys, I've just bought a 93 DL 4WD D/R and I'm looking to lift it. now i know there is probably 1000 topics on this but they are all over the place and you only get half the story in each one! what I want to do is 3" suspension lift with a 2 or 3" body lift. I have done the homework on strut spacing and any more than 2", bigger wheels blah blah blah. But i would like is a list of all parts and potentially drawings if you have any. To start i would like to know if I can use 3x2x1/2 (I'm not used to using imperial measurements so if i make a mistake or 2 just bare with me) RHS or if ill need to make a more sturdy unit, dropping the cross members what is a the best rule of thumb for working out how much to drop. As for body lift should the blocks be solid is the 1/2 RHS good for that. Nuts and bolts, what are the best grade for all this, general purpose, high tensile, building. These are all things i just cannot find answers to on any post. If you can think of anything else i have forgotten please feel free to add it, I am looking to do this right and not too dodgy or bodged together. if that made no sense just let me know and I'll try to get it right for you that time. cheers guys!
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my water pump came apart so while i was "in there" we decided to do the timing belts as they were past due. now it won't start it seems to be out of time.
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Salutations! First post on here. I just purchased the lovely Ethel pictured above. The car's great, she's been taken care of, but I've been having problems with third gear. EA81, 4WD, 4-speed. Grinds and kicks out of gear if I shift too quickly. Even successful shifts are occasionally painful (a hard knock when the gears engage, generally). I'm assuming it's just worn synchros, courtesy of a 30-year old transmission. I've read into it a bit, and it seems that this issue is fairly common? Any advice or suggestion is appreciated. If I shift slowly and firmly, I can usually avoid grinding. My primary concern is this affecting the longevity of the car. Thanks, friendlyfallenfoe on behalf of Ethel, my 1984 GL hatchback.
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Lowering springs with KYB gr2 for Ea81?
82GLWag posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My question here is can you use kyb struts for stock replacement but use a shorter spring to get even just an inch lower? if so is there a spring I can get or would it be alright to just cut the stock springs? This is a 82' 4WD GL. also what about the back? I know I can adjust the torsion bar but idk where its sitting at the moment and if it will get low enough to match the front. -
It's an auto, sadly, but it's a beautiful car. My name's Andrew, and I'm a producer on a feature length documentary being shot this August following four guys driving 5,500 miles from Seattle to NYC in an effort to prove that the "On the Road" ideal of cheap, meaningful adventure is still accessible in 2014. OK enough of that though - this isn't about plugging a movie. I'm here to learn about my new car - all the ins and outs, and learn from the vast wealth of experience here on the board. I used a lot of info I found here when researching the GL, so thanks! The car is in pristine condition - one owner for its entire lifespan, and the ORIGINAL owners manual is still in the glovebox, complete with all the inspections, etc. Only 106k on it, and even after sitting at the used car lot for a decent amount of time, the engine turned over instantly. I'm kind of in love right now. Haha My only question right of the bat, is about the carb. I'm not very familiar with carbs, and I've been told that if we do a lot of altitude change - which we will - that I may have to jet it on the fly. Anyone have any experience to that end? Here are a few pics:
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Has anyone ever seen i beam suspension on a subaru, i've looked around but have not seen anything please post some sweet pics if you have them
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Does anyone know where an RX front lip can be obtained? or a "replica"/something aftermarket? I know there are plenty of DIY lips for imprezas and legacies, but how about for an ea82? pics?
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Good morning all, Does anyone know the part number for the FWD manual transmission that goes into a 1989 Subaru GL wagon? I attached a picture of a transmission that is thought to be for my car but I want to make sure. The number that is hard to read is TM70F5A2AT-AK thanks, Lewis
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Good afternoon all, I have a 1989 Subaru GL wagon (EA82) that I will be lifting 2". I am looking for recommendations for rims & tires. I will also be drilling out my hubs to the toyota 6 bolt pattern. Any favorites for big tires and rims (size, brand, etc) that have the off-road look and feel without sacrificing street handling. I will most likely be driving to work (20 mi) with this car. Any input/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Cost is always king I am not looking to sell my kidneys to fund this build but I understand it will take some coin. Thanks, Lewis
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- off roadlifted
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I'm wondering on wether or not I should buy a 1992 Subaru GL wagon. The car is $800 and in pretty good shape for the age. I'm wondering how hard and exspensive will it be to convert it from fwd to 4wd/AWD and if it's worth doing or not http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/4464956741.html
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Okay, I'll have to add pictures soon, but, I just completed the conversion to make my FWD DL become 4WD. If there's any interest in this, I'll post up pictures and a description/ instructions for the build and the best methods of afroengineering it all together. Until then, I'm going to take a shower and if anyone cares I will post up the build. I've attached a photo of the car which received the work.
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Got the weber swap done and car is running. Been driving it for a couple days and it is much quicker in the lower end and a hell of a lot louder idles good and runs smooth other than a sort of "flat spot" when giving it more throttle, almost as if its shorted on fuel or air? I also think the timing could use some adjusting but I can't advance the disty anymore because of a port and hose coming out of the intake manifold, into the block. (This is an EA81 motor with a weber on a EA82 intake manifold). But thinking I can remove and block that hose to get the timing dialed. So my question to the board is; what would you do to this setup to give it just that much more power/response/smoothness? Cap and rotor? Coil? Btw it's a 1982 GL 4x4. Thank you!
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Earler this winter i slid my beloved gl into a curb. The rear end not dog tracks pretty bad. I took it to school and came to the conclusion that the sub frame the rear diff and hubs are mounted to was tweaked. A friend of my has a old brat he said i could take parts off. I haven't looked at the brat yet. Anyone know if i could swap the rear sub frames? Thank you!
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Hey guys. Kicking around the idea of making a sweet v8 gl wagon. Mostly wondering about which motor/trans i would look into? Ive never really owned any muscle cars so i dont know where to start. Something simple paired with a cable operated trans would be awesome. Id like to be able to use the gls original rear end. Maybe a welded diff. Im thinking carbed for least amound of wiring. Id want to use as much of the gl as i could. Less money the better. I really just want to scare the crap out of fart can hondas with big smokey burnouts in a little old beater. I was planing to upgrade to stiffer suspention like bumblebeasts writeup.Rear disc swap and some wide 6 lugs. Thanks guys!
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So, here is the situation: My drivers side door was pulled from a car with power windows/locks, but my Loyale has manual windows and locks. The window obviously doesnt work, and I want to fix that.. Even if it is a "jimmy rig." I will shell out a few bucks for a manual door if i cant figure out something good. Bear with me here because I know jack squat about electronics/wiring. I want to know, is there a way to wire the window switch up to my battery? The back of the switch is a mess, it has 5 or 6 posts with a wire running to another switch, and some 10 ohm resistors(i think) running between posts. I was thinking it would be a bit more simple. Any way to just power the window motor itself? i dont really see how i could control up/down that way though. Secondly, can i just go pull a few things off of a door at pick n pull, such as the manual handle, and whatever else i need? I am starting to feel dumb here but i'm a bit stumped and its getting awfully warm out to have a stuck window. I wanna feel the breeze this summer. If i should post pics, let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated, if you have ever dealt with something like this before. An idea is an idea so throw em out there if you got em, fellas! - Walker
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After going to the west coast subaru id really like to get together with other Old Gen Subaru lovers here in the NW. i see so many pages on facebook etc on the new gen (which are great and i love em) but i want to see all the Old gen rigs. Would anyone be want to join in on this? Im thinking after christmas time. If your interested Post on here or pm me. maybe if we find out where everyone is coming from finding a good place to all meet would be easier. Im in Salem, OR Where yall at?
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Just finished up some engine swapping and have an extra EA82 engine and a lot of engine parts. Including: - Short block 100$ OBO (NOT rebuilt. about 150k miles, cylinders are clean almost no ridge, was running, doesn't even need rebuild - just put back together) - Heads 25$ each OBO (needs valve job) - Long block 140$ OBO - Oil pump - Water pump - All pulleys - Valve covers - Some timing belt covers and the tensioners - Flywheel - Oil pan -Engine mounts - Ask if you don't see the part you're looking for, I may have it NO -Alternator - Intake manifold - Carburetor - Transmission - Radiator - Power steering - AC - Distributor email chasewell@gmail.com I can give you pictures or more history or information about any of these parts. Suggest a price for the little stuff if you are interested, let me know if you want the engine for a different price and we will discuss (via email)
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HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED. Yesterday, I discovered the green connector for CEL testing has been plugged in forever. i unplugged it, and proceeded to do what I know, in order to read the check engine light. The oxygen monitor showed codes 21(coolant temp sensor), 24(idle air control valve or circuit) and 34(EGR solenoid or circuit). It got dark, so I went inside and proceeded to look online for a replacement IACV gasket, so I can clean it. I also looked at an EGR solenoid and planned on cleaning the EGR today. When I went to start my car this morning, it fired but died immediately, and I knew something was wrong. One more start and die, and without pumping the throttle or having it wide open, the car just cranked and didnt fire. What the heck? So I read the codes again, and nothing had changed. As far as I know the only thing I did was make a red light blink, so i'm a little confused. Is it possible that the car is acting up because the ECU "didnt know" about the bad egr and iacv until i put it in test mode? before having gone inside last night i started the car, and it RAN FINE. Again, what the heck? Does anyone have any ideas? car has always had idle issues, and at one point an ignition coil that arced to the negative ground. ask me questions and i will answer, but so far, thats what i got. Thank you guys in advance. -walker
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I have and 87 GL wagon, and it has this cool feature to switch IN and OUT of 4 wheel drive. and i'm planning on switching the insides with possibly a wrx set-up, but I don't want to lose that Drivetrain feature. Can anyone give me some info on ANY car that has that feature?
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Any one have any leads or a pair of XT6 front springs?? Im trying to put them under an 82 gl with new struts to get a little bit of drop and stiffer spring rate. This should work right?? Any help/tips are much appreciated! thanks all!
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How in the bloody hell do I uncover the rear strut towers in my 90 wagon? am trying to remove struts and put on coil sleeves. where the codswalloping codswallop is the magic button that uncovers the tops?
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Hi Any help would be much appreciated. I have been trying to get this car going again. I have a 87 Subaru GL 1.8L ea82 carburetor engine Manual Transmission. I am doing a timing belt replacement. Plus, I decided to change the cam and crank seals at the same time. I was following the basic Chiltons book while doing the change. I removed the old belt in the initial part of the change. Now as I am putting things back on, and ready to put on the new timing belt, I am reading to have the cam sprockets positioned differently then they are. On the Driver side my Cam sprocket is DOWN. On the Passenger side my Cam sprocket is UP. Now that I have the timing belts off, how do I move my cams to the proper position to finish belt install? I'm nervous about how they should be correctly moved, all instructions simply say line it up with no in-depth details on how. Here is the DRIVER CAM with hole DOWN: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/photo1.jpg.html Here is the PASSENGER CAM with hole UP: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/passcam.jpg.html