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Showing results for tags 'subaru'.
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So I was curious about doing an engine swap and from what people are telling me that I'm in over my head. My new question I need help with is I have an 09 legacy 2.5i. I want to put a turbo on it, what all do I need to do. Ive been told that it won't just bolt up without replacing every thing in the combustion chambers. -
The EJ251 engine in my 2002 Forester weighs 119 kg (262 Lbs). I had trouble finding this info online, so I thought that I would post it here. I had taken the engine out to replace the clutch, and before resting the engine on the floor, I weighed it on my bathroom scales. Not exactly 100% scientific, but close enough. The weight is for a bare engine: - No oil; - No coolant; - No A/C pump; - No Alternator; - No Power-steering pump. But includes: - Flywheel and clutch; - Timing-belt, all idlers and covers; - Main drive-pulley; - Rocker-covers and spark-plugs in place; - Engine-mounts attached; - Intake & Exhaust manifolds attached. -
I need to know if I can put a 97 forester transmission in my 98 forester? They are both AWD Auto transmissions. -
Hey everyone! New to the forums but I thought I would start out with a great mystery for everyone that I still can't seem to figure out I have a 93 Legacy L, just a hair over 200K and just did an oil change and a battery pull roughly 30 miles before this incident. I'm driving about 4 miles, cold car, doing a little under 30mph. My AC is on but engine temp is low and no cel or anything. I slow to turn and clutch in to shift into second, when I suddenly lose power steering part way through the turn! I safely pull over and notice CEL, Battery, and maybe one other light (Oil?), I really can't remember because I shut it off so quickly. I stood there for 20 minutes just inspecting the engine trying to figure out what could possibly cause all those symptoms. Turned the AC off and it started up like nothing had happened and drove the 1/2 mile home. The idle was erratically low but it has been all week because of the battery negative pull. The car is also showing no data for the check engine either. Now I know my negative terminal clamp needs to be replaced, but if it fell off it would be totally dead and not partial. All fluids were normal, no power steering leaks, and the belts were perfectly fine (no burnt smell either indicating seized AC compressor). I've heard suggestions of an alternator, but the alternator is somewhat new and tests fine for voltage. I really have no other problems with this car besides a chattery clutch when cold So here's where it gets weird...This was my dad's car previously (Bought New), and he said it's done this once or twice randomly before with the exact same symptoms and no lasting effects or symptoms. Now he also owns an 08 Outback that he claims has done this once before too, which adds to my utter bafflement. Now take his claims with a grain of salt; I wasn't there and it they could have been different enough to just be another matter entirely, but still odd nonetheless. I've been over this a thousand times and I just can't make heads or tails...If anybody has any insight it would be greatly appreciated! Hopefully I didn't break any rules already by making such a huge wall of text, but thank you all for reading/submitting, and I look forward to posting some of my own responses around here in the future! -
So i recently bought a 1999 Subaru Forester with about 178k miles on it, the car runs good, i was able to get the car for a very reasonable price. The only thing i don't like about it is when I am at a red light or when i first start the car it runs really really crappy at idle. I looked it up and out of all the information i had read it seems like i have to clean or replace the IACV in the car. I don't want to start taking things apart and then not have a certain part or need to replace a gasket so i was just wondering if anyone has a step by step process i could use? or any tips that will help me fix this problem? Thank you much -tye -
So i guess this is my pre-build thread to see peoples ideas and any possable tips reguarding the restoration phase of the brat. my brat unfortunatley needs a lot of body work. however i found a very clean 85 GL hatch that i can take just about the whole front end off of. end product will hopefully have a wrx/sti driveline (or maybe something a bit more valuable, but that all depends on if i can find it). the GL will likely recieve the brat's current driveline which would be an upgrade from 2 wheel front to 2/4wheel dual range. the brat literally has all the rust spots you would expect froma neglected brat (though the frame looked good last i checked). any tips on body repair for the rear end (in the bed and the rear sill that almost doesnt exist anymore) and people that might be selling the bed chrome for a 2nd gen as mine is in questionable condition.
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I just joined the Subaru club! Scored a sweet deal on a 1997 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT with 84k miles on it. The car is practically perfect on maintenance, everything that could be replaced was with the best parts on the market. What little upgrades could I do to this car? I've read that adding a 2 1/4 inch thrush muffler would make it sound a lot better, is this true? Thanks! -
Okay so its not literally purple lightning but thats what it looks like. My coil is arcing between the posts with purple "lightning". Ive never seen this before nor do I know how to diagnose this.... any ideas as to whats wrong? Is the coil itself bad or is it something I can fix? i.e. is it not grounded properly etc.... thanks for the input! I just wanna get my 81 sedan back in tip top condition so i can get it to the show this coming year.
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http://www.performancechipsdirect.com/ Does anyone one have any experience with this chip^^^^ or ever heard anything about them? Or does anyone know of a good tuner chip for my 1998 Impreza? -
Hey guys, new member here. I recently aquired a silver 87 GL-10 turbo wagon with air suspension and the 3 speed automatic. I essentially got the car for free so I figured if it ran, I'd spend some time and a little money trying to get it running good so I'll have a winter car. It sat for probably 2 years, at least, up in the woods of the northwest. Encouragingly the car started right up with a jump, and it actually drove over 180 miles down to where I live without any needed repairs. So far, the problems I’ve found with the car are limited to the push-button 4WD not engaging( which may be a bad button is all) and more importantly...the air suspension will not lift the car. When I turn the key to ON, the compressor starts running and continues to do so for about 8-10 minutes then shuts off. After it shuts off, the light begins to blink on the dash indicating that there is an error. I’ve found very little technical information on this system that I can effectively use to properly troubleshoot the problem. The little that I have found has informed me that the behavior I just described usually occurs when a leak is present in the system. Because the ride height does not change after 8-10 minutes of the compressor running, the computer assumes there is a leak so it shuts off and projects an error code to the driver. I also read somewhere( and I could have this wrong, please let me know) that the computer will always try to raise the rear of the car BEFORE the front. So, with this in mind I removed the plastic and carpet from the back of the car and checked the air lines for holes. I found out that mice had literally severed the air line going to the passenger-side rear wheel. I bought a couple air-line bridges(blanking out on what they’re actually called) and patched the line. As of right now that’s the only defect I can find in the air system. After fixing that though, the system still does the same thing. It runs for 10 minutes without any change in elevation, and then shuts off leaving me with nothing but a blinking dash again. What I’m hoping for is for someone who has had experience with these air systems to suggest some things to try. Or that possibly someone who has a technical shop manual for the 80’s GL’s could take a gander at the pages detailing air suspension troubleshooting and post some suggestions...maybe even some scans One observation that I’m not sure is important, is that my dad unhooked the middle hose from the compressor that goes to the tank. We noted that he was able to blow air INTO the compressor...which seems like something irregular. But I’m not sure. Maybe it needs a new diaphram? Help me out. Oh and before everyone starts chiming in saying that I should just tear out the air suspension.. I’m not going to put that much work into this car lol Plus, everything seems to be in good condition, the car has 150,000 miles. Thanks in advance guys. -
Hi guys, I'm new here so forgive me if I screw anything up. I'm looking at purchasing a TSUDO n1 Catback exhaust for my 2004 Subaru Impreza 2.0 GX. The site I'm looking at says that the exhaust is designed for 1998-2005 RS Imprezas. I'm wondering whether this exhaust would fit on my GX. Thanks. I've uploaded a pic of what I'm getting here: http://imgur.com/Zt87i3O Also, if it makes a difference, I'm in Australia and this exhaust is coming from the US... sorry I'm just currently in the learning process at the moment -
Hi all. I have an opportunity to buy a "Select monitor" reader at an auction here in Sweden. Pic: tovek.se/images/auctions/431/100705/medium_1.jpg Q: Is it worth it? It has no bids yet, starting at about 30 USD? Q2: What can one do with it? //Magnus
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hey guys, just had a question. Buying a car on vancouver island, going back up north soon, and found what seems to be a good one. 1993 legacy ls with 124k kilometres on it. only real issue i see is the subaru mechanic working on it says it needs a computer, because overdrive wont work. seems to drive kinda meh without it. seems tranny is working irratic without the new computer, but with one, could be good. they want 2200 for it with comp, but would probably have to buy the car first. tranny fluid and oil have been checked/changed and are clean. Just when you step on it, it over revs, seems to want to switch to overdrive. Do you have any suggestions about what else might be wrong with car? as i said, seems to be all good, i just want to know if thd computer will make a definite difference to the shifting ability and all. they are also selling a 98 forester with apparently new gaskets, with 190k, but he also wont budge on 4000 for that one.
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Hi all. My name is Magnus and I live in the middle of Sweden. I have a 1985 Subaru Libero (called Columbuss in scandinavia) and I'm having two major problems with it. Most urgent one: The clutch is stuck in it's pressed stage (engine and transmission not connected). This has happend before, and it's not the wire. It's the shaft that pivots the clutch release fork inside the bellhousing that is stuck. Last time, I sloved it by drilling a hole into the bellhousing, heating with a welding torch and thereafter spraying penetratig oil into the hole as i rocked the release lever on the outside until the clutch operated to satisfaction. After that was done, I punched a grease-nipple into the hole, partly to seal the hole, but also to allow one to lube the shaft if the problem ever were to reoccur in the future. Now, the shaft is stuck again and it's negative degrees here (c-grade) which complicates things. I don't have access to a garage, just an electrical socket and my toolbox. My plan is to get a propane torch, heat the bellhousing again, rock the lever and then pump grease in through the nipple, all while the aluminium is still hot. Repeating this a couple of times should fix the problem for a time long enough to move the car to my home (about 55 metric miles). Is this a good plan? The less-urgent one: The car loses power at 30-40% gas, tugs and then hesitates up to speed. I've done most checks that many experienced mechanics have come up with, but still have some things to check: -What's the symptoms on the engines vacuum-reading if the EGR-system works improperly? -The carburetor is a Hitachi HCK-34, a side draft type, that no one ever seem to have heard of. It seems custom built to fit just this specific car model. Does anyone have experience of a carb that uses a twin-atmospheric pressure system? (Pic from workshop manual available upon request.) Thanks in advance. //Magnus.
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I have a 1987 GL Coupe. It's a fun car, but, finding parts is hard. When I bought it, the passenger side tail light was cracked, which was okay. The driver's side tail light, as of about 2 hours ago, was broken because I was having too much fun on a snowy road and I may have bounced it off a tree. No real dent, didn't scratch the paint, just broke the signal lens off. (The actual brake light is fine, just the orange bit is missing). I'd really like to replace it, but, I can't find this easily. If someone knows where I can buy one or will sell me one, I'd be very happy! Is it possible to use the lights from a sedan instead? Even with a little modification? Or that definitely a no-go? -
So im going to be swapping the drive system in my brat with one from an early 2000's wrx, and im currious how difficult a certain modification would be. i would like to keep the abiloity to select on the fly 2wd and awd, so it would be a slurr of a 4wd system and an awd system. is this a feasable thing to attempt?
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Hello everyone, Nice website you've got here, I finally had to stop lurking and make an account because she stopped running and it was time to ask for help, so here goes: I've got an 86 subaru GL, 300,000+ miles, rebuilt ea82, she's been running really well lately but the other day I started her up on the first try, as usual, just jumped right to life. I drove about 10 feet and stopped at a stop sign and the engine died. Wouldn't start but still turn over. Checked the fuel pump fuse and it was blown, so I replaced it and she started right up again. I drove about 4 blocks and it died again, wouldn't start. Fuel pump fuse was blown again. Replaced the fuse, started up, and died immediately. Fuse was blown again. Subsequently replaced and blew 3 more fuses, without the car running for more than a second, and was then all out of spares and had to get a tow back home. I've been hearing it could be that the fuel pump relay has gone out. My plan was to replace the relay this afternoon and see if that does it, but I could use some information in regards to the location of the fuel pump, or if anyone else has any ideas or solutions it'd be great to her em. Thanks!
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So after seeking out a vintage Subaru for about 3 months thanks to The_Mechanical_Misfit getting me obsessed with getting one I finally found something. I bought a 1985 Subaru BRAT from forum member TomRhere (thanks again Tom). It really is the best car I have ever driven and couldn't be happier with it. Thats her after getting home from the 170 mile drive home. In the rain, of course. And there is one of myself and TomRhere taken by The_Mechanical_Misfit while picking it up. Since the day I brought it home I have been in the middle of giving it a basic tune up: air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires, belt, a little seafoam for good measure. The only thing that has gone wrong so far is I had to replace the alternator. I found a way to totally split the pulley down the middle, making it not turn completely and wreck the bearing. Ended up getting a reman from O'Reilly because this is my main vehicle now and I did not really have time to look for something else. So thats it thus far. In the future I hope to get a topper and/or a roll bar, maybe find a way to redo the stripes on the sides with something that will pop a bit more, and fight the rust battle with all my strength.
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Hey all, I'm new here and this is my first post. I was wondering if there's a coilover available for the Loyale sedan? I've heard that some early civic coils will work but I'm not sure. Ideally I would like to be incredibly low, as low as possible on 14" wheels. I was also wondering about the Digital Dash I have seen online. Does this only come in the Turbo version? Only come over seas (non US)? Could I swap one into a non digital dash'd L? My build is going to be very early 90's Japanese style inspired. Sorry for so many questions, I'm new! spvcxshxp. -
Found a nice outback spotThe seller says it is a 2.2 1995.i am thinking the sport only had 2.5 and came out in 96 or 97. Any help? Thanks -
I have a 95 Subaru Legacy, Starting to feel like my parents gave me a money pit. But I'm hoping to come out with a Money pit worth having. Did the wheel bearing myself, Car doesn't have reverse (Got transmission, going to get it swapped) The transmission sets me a little over 1000 for used transmission and trans swap. Just recently I got a battery light, car died while driving. I took the alternator out and the battery to the parts store, they tested both of them and determined my alternator was good, but the battery was bad. I bought a $125 battery for it, and here I am two days later battery light on earlier today and car dies while driving tonight. Some how "my alternator is good" but my battery is not getting charged. Anyone have this problem, Where do I start?? Thanks for all the help here ya'll. I got some great info when I originally posted about my transmission which led me to finding a decent deal on a used transmission. Travis- -
I have an exhaust problem with my 1984 GL wagon. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/weimadog/media/IMG_1068_zpsf20d217a.mp4.html The video explains the problem. I found it by connecting a shop vac to the exhaust pipe, and listening for the hiss. That's a lot more pleasant than getting under a car and dealing with a hot exhaust. One bold is rusted in place, the other one is still springy. What's the solution for this one?
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I bought this Subaru about 2 weeks ago for a couple hundred bucks on a rainy dark night. Ran, shifted, and stopped just fine. Bought it and drove it around until i had to registar it. Then i started poking around. To the point: Can somebody provide me with a picture of the o2 sensor plug/location? I have been tracing wires on and off for a while and cant seem to find where the o2 sensor connects into the harness. The wires coming off of the sensor itself have definitely been cut off, but i wouldnt this they would have cut the harness as well... Im starting to wonder if the previous owner chopped it off when they swapped in a new engine. (Still an ea82 Spfi) Much appreciated.
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Hi all, My 1996 Subaru Legacy GT had been through a crash but no damage to the Engine at all. So i decided to buy a 1998 legacy GTB body, so i could put my engine into that. I have got that done and now im down to the last couplie parts which is getting the timing done, and getting this ECU put in and hoping for the best that its gonna work. So my question is do i put the 1996 ECU chip in ? or the 1998 ECu chip in? because im getting it done as a home job. & unfortunatley the people doing it aint quite sure themselves. I hope someone can help me here , and also which is for which i have a chip that is black stickered with 87 on it and i dont know which MOdel its from, and ive been looking on line for 98 ecu's and their saying the 4g one is for that so im stuck. Also is it possible to do this? i have heard the car go before with the engine in but it didnt go for long, the coils and the ECU burnout, but its been soo long since ive looked at the car i have forgotten which one burnout. Both the cars are manual and the engine is a standard twin turbo engine that you get lol, even like wiring and stuff would some1 be able to help me there to do i put the 98 wiring in or the 96 wiring in. Some 1 please help thanks Cheerz -
Okay so here is my question, I have a 2001 Lego 5 speed with 125,xxx miles on her, and Is there any difference between O2 sensors for the automatic and manual? On Subaru Parts For You it lists that there are two different O2 sensors as seen here: http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Sensor%2C+Oxygen&year=2001 I just wanted to know of this was true or not because my car has the dreaded P0420 code and I have done everything to get if off such as running NGK spark plugs, OEM Beck Arnely wires, OEM coil pack when the original one went bad, new air filter, fuel filter, intake gaskets, head gaskets, and I already did a timing belt kit on it when it hit that interval including thermostat (used the proper one, not the ordinary one) water pump, and I'm running good 89 octane gas threw her. So the only thing left is to change the front O2 sensor and I have a used one that was good out of a 2000 outback but it was an automatic so I'm not sure if they would interchange. I'm going to try the seafoam trick tomorrow to see what that does. My New York state inspection is up in a couple of months and it needs to pass the OBII check being 1996 and newer...good ol' NYS!!!
