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Showing results for tags 'Subaru'.
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I'd like to thank eveyone that helped me pick out a good replacement for my 2001 Legacy. This 2010 Outback will do my family well for years (hopefully) to come. She's pretty!
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Would like to hear any experiences and thoughts on owning a 2000 ( or similiar) Subaru Impreza RX Manual Non-Turbo? Found one with about 223,200 kilometres on it for $5000, modded with wrx spoiler,rims, bridgestone tyres and twin tip muffler I know absolutely nothing so the more information, the better would like to learn about the engine, clutch, how reliable etc etc just tell me anything, just enthusiastic to absorb any information . Will be using this as a daily- highway driving- thoughts?
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I have a 91 Subaru Legacy and it will not stay started when I start it unless it has been sitting for awhile, for example overnight. But if for instance I drive to the store and then shut off the engine and go inside and then come back out and try to start it again, then it will not stay started when I try to leave unless I give it gas at startup and I also have to keep my foot on the gas for several minutes to keep it from shutting off. I just had the following work done on it among other things: engine control module replaced, o2 sensor replaced, fuel pump replaced, fuel filter replaced and entire fuel system cleaned, air intake system cleaned/repaired. This along with everything else that was done came to over $1,500, and the car was in the shop for well over a month. Needless to say I do not want to take it back to the shop or invest any more money in it at this point. However I am curious to know what else could be causing it to not stay started aside from the things that I have already had looked at/replaced. I realize that it is an older car, but up until a few months ago I wasn't having any issues at all with it. I initially took it to the shop only because sometimes it wouldn't start at all unless I started it with my foot on the gas, but that only happened sometimes (though it did begin to occur more and more frequently and had gotten pretty bad by the time I took it to the shop). Is there something else that I could possibly do myself to fix the issue that I am having without spending an insane amount of money? Also, is it hurting the car to keep driving it even though it is doing what it is doing? I only still drive it like that because I have no other transportation at the moment. I also know it isn't the battery because I just had the battery replaced earlier this year, and all of the lights and other functions (radio, e.t.c.) work just fine. Side note: Not sure if this is an issue either, but if I turn the engine off and just sit with the key turned in the ignition (in the position just before starting the engine), then I hear a humming sound coming from the car which usually only seems to stop if I completely remove the key from the ignition. -
Hello Subaru world!!! I've owned Subarus for several years. This is my 3rd one so far. I've owned many cars from high school until now, and I can't think of driving a different one at this point. This winter has been great so far, but we usually have terrible winters up here in the northeast. I'm happy to say that I haven't gotten stuck in the snow one time since I've had a Subaru. About me: I'm not a professional mechanic (no way!) but I feel like I'm a 'pretty good' backyard wrench-turner and for the past dozen years or so I couldn't tell you the amount of thousands of dollars I've saved working on my own vehicles. I think that these forums are great to help people understand their vehicles better, and I'm hoping one day that I'll be able to help someone else with some worthy advice, or suggestion just as how these forums have helped me.
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I currently have zovak hpw401s and they are 185/70/r13 on my Loyale. I want to get some general grabber AT2s which are 27 x 8.5R14. my wheels measure 14 inches across. I have seen other people with thus same wheel/ tire combination i am just not sure if my wheels are the same size. Thanks
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I have an automatic Subaru impreza 2009 2.5i and I have discovered the manual mode, (The +/- in this image http://images.gtcarlot.com/pictures/47884906.jpg) and I have been using it for a while and I know how to how to upshift correctly it seems (I let the car downshift by itself) but I recently have been wondering if this is at all bad for the car. Will it ruin the car/wear it out more? I just find it more enjoyable to use while driving, shifting myself instead of just pushing a pedal, I am a college student and don't have a lot of fun throughout the day, doing this makes driving much more enjoyable for me. For anyone saying why I didn't get a manual, I am the youngest in the family and my parents bought this for my older sibling, my sibling no longer uses the car and I don't want to ask for a new car and don't want to seem ungrateful so I am using their car. -
What parts do I need to get to do a rear disc brake conversion on my 88 GL 4wd wagon? Any input would be helpful. Also is there a thread somewhere on how to drill hubs to the 4 x 114.3 pattern?
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I have a 1990 subaru legacy manual Trans and I've been having quite the idling issue. I just replaced the MAFS and she still won't idle what so ever. I'm planning on cleaning my throttle body and replacing the gasket to see if that helps. I've already replaced the top end throttle body vacuum line and it didn't do anything to help. I need some wisdom due to this being my first import please help me out -
How hard would it be to swap the hubs from a 91 legacy onto a 88 gl? Any input would be greatly appreciated. If this is or already had been discussed somewhere can someone please put a link in this thread.
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Hello, At work right now so my full research will start when I get home, but figured it would be nice to have some pointers of where to look in the forum ( keywords, etc) and maybe where to look on my car to better assist my research phase. **my 1998 subaru Outback 2.5l auto with about 130k miles popped check engine light. -Drove it about 12 miles, checked fluids ( oil, Brake fluid, trans , coolant ) all looked good. - pulled battery Cable to try and reset light in case it was a one time thing. -Reconnected battery, Started car , idled until temp guage started reading, still check engine light. -Turned off car fluid check again . . . oil was way low, looked under car, 0.5 + quarts dumped right under the car. seemed to be coming from Driver side left of engine above the lower Radiator hose connection behind the plastic cover that is behind the belts. Wondering if it ends up being a big issue if swapping from the 2.5 to the 2.2 is a common thing ? The research and Adventure now begins! Any thoughts, questions or pointers would be awesome. ( will be doing a photo bucket account or the like to get plenty of photos flowing :0)
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Hey everyone, excited to be apart of this community. Looking forward to finding information to do my build, also to meet new people, being help and further along providing assistance to fellow members. Here's my wagon.
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BRAND: Subaru MODEL: 1800 GLF Leone 83' ENGINE: EA81 NA Intake system: custom intake to adopt throttle body from EJ22 + BLOS LPG EXHAUST catless ,and no restriction muffler ELECTRONICS: Electric mirrors, Lambda, an additional radiator fan switch TRANSMISSION: Manual 4 gears, conversion to RWD, differential LSD SUSPENSION: Front McPerson with springs from BMW E32, rear torsion bar with new mounting holes (for lowering) and shocks from VW T4 BRAKES: Stock BODY-KIT: no WHEELS / TYRES: Rims original with 4x140, tires 175 / 60R13 INSIDE: Velour brightly colored coffee CAR-AUDIO: Original Radio CD Speakers enough 2x with one Rema HiFi column OTHER: Installation of LPG BRC with cylindrical tank 35L located on the back. Aluminium fuel tank 25L Evaporator BRC AT90. BLOS PLANS: efi convert [video=youtube]
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I have a 91 Legacy wagon which has been having startup issues on occasion. I usually manage to get it started by attempting to start it with my foot on the gas pedal, but when it starts it usually sputters for awhile and often turns off again. When I just turn the key in the ignition prior to starting it, I always hear a humming sound, and I wonder if that sound is related to or indicates the fuel pump may be going bad? Also whenever I drive the car it often has trouble accelerating especially after I've stopped at a stoplight. I just had the oil changed and had the fuel filter replaced and fuel system cleaned at the shop 3 days ago, and they also did diagnostics. But they didn't say anything about a faulty fuel pump, or maybe they didn't even consider it. Either way this all cost me over $300 already, so I just wonder if anyone has any ideas or suggestions before I spend any more money. Thank you all.
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We found a super-clean, one-owner 2005 Baja turbo with 70k miles that we're considering as our first Baja. One-owner car, well-maintained, drives great, super clean, but underneath, there's rust / corrosion on the subframe, exhaust, diff bolts etc. Connecticut car, so no doubt from salted winter roads. I've attached pics and was wondering if this undercarriage surface corrosion is normal for Subes of this generation. There's no rust in the wheel wells or doors and no rot, just the corrosion as you can see in pics. We'd like to buy this car, but want to get some feedback from fellow Subaru owners before going ahead. Thanks for your replies! A
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I have just purchased a 1988 subaru GL wagon dual range 5 speed transmission SPFI ea-85 with 162,xxx for $500 little to no rust. everything works except when you switch into four wheel high or low the car will drive but once you start accelerating a nasty shake / shudders start shaking the whole car and when you try and turn the whole car locks up completely. It drives in 2 wheel perfectly fine except at high speeds (50+) the car will vibrate from the rear differential a little bit. My guess is that the rear differential is not functioning properly somehow. I also have a 92 legacy that has 140,xxx that I want to swap the ej22 into the gl. If someone could help me diagnose the problem with the four wheel that would be much appreciated and if someone could point me towards a how to ej swap thread and tell what all I might need that would also be beyond helpful. -
Hey guys, So I found a 1987 Gl10 Turbo Wagon for $1000 (he says that the price is negotiable though) in pretty good shape for being 28 years old. For a first car I'm looking for something that I can daily drive to school (engineering student) and handle Utah winters, and I'm really digging this car so far, but I want to make sure it's the right choice. here's the ad: http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/2383534?ad_cid=18 The good: +138,000 original miles +5 speed manual +paint and body are MINT (some rust and small dent in front, but that's it) +power everything still works, except the auto lock doors (even the power sunroof!) +interior is decent to good (no ripping) +Heat/AC works perfectly The bad: -clutch needs to be replaced (slips in 4th and 5th, but still drivable). -needs new tires -Turbo? I hear turbo ea82s have reliability problems? Anyone know what I should expect? (though turbo's are fun!) So yeah. Should I go for it? I'm really digging this car, and I have no problem getting dirty and working on the thing, but as a student, I have a limited amount of free time (and money!). I hear it's not too hard to lift the engine and replace the clutch, which would be much cheaper, but I have little experience working on cars, though I know my way around tools. What's your guys' experiences with GLs? Thanks, Matt
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This is probably a stupid question but..... I just about finished the ej22 swap into my loyale everything was going smoothly until my fuel pump stopped working again. the relay clicks when turned to start like it should but the fuel pump is not priming anymore. will i be needing to replace the fuel pump or is it more of a wiring issue? also i do have spark so i don't think its an ecu issue. any help would be greatly appreciated
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Hello all, This is my first Subaru so I'm sure there is a lot I don't know. I search for the answer before posting so please forgive me if I missed it. When Car reaches 45 it makes a chirp or squeal sound just once. I purchesed this 2 m ago from a local used car dealer. I took it back to them and they diagnosed the serpentine belt as the problem. Problem has not changed. Any ideas? 2011 outback 4 cyl -
Howdy, My Subaru won't start all of a sudden. I am new to this car, so bear with me. I will explain what I have observed. Upon turning the key to a point the lights turn on the fuel pump in the rear makes a "Rrrrrrr... Rrrrrrr" Sound with about a one-and-a-half second pause between sounds. This happened before but the car would start and then there would be a constant "rrrrr" sound. There was a situation not so long ago where I cranked for a while longer than I'd like to, and it did start. The fuel pump and fuel filter look brand new. But my first assumption to this point is that I must have been too low on gas and they got gummed up. However, I must consider than the sound is normal. Again, I'm a newb. Did a firing test. Definitely firing. Suggestions, ideas, knowledge? Update 1: After letting the starter attempt to do it's job for about five or six seconds the car did start and does start every time after. However, I do not know if that means the problem is somehow solved. The idle itself on the first rough-start was fine, but became more adequate all of a sudden with a higher RPM. I will be doing a cold start soon to see if I experience the same difficulty. Update 2: I let the fuel pump oscillate two to three times before attempting a start. After actually running or being on a trip it starts right away. The short (if there truly was one) is also gone. I have not experienced difficulty to start anymore. I assume it was dirty fuel causing inadequate pressure. But really, I don't know.
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okay so i have basically completed the ej swap, everything except the wiring. most the wiring is done but i cant get it to run. considering hiring somebody to troubleshoot. how much would somebody with ej wiring experience charge to come over and trouble shoot my wiring issues? I live in Woodinville thanks in advance
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Got to work at the Subaru Technical Training Center in Aurora Co. Heidi gave me a personal tour. She thought I was going to have a heart attack....LOL. Loved it. New engines, New technology, hell I was even interested in the Hybrid demo table. Thanks, Subaru!!!!!!!!!!! -
I am currently swapping an ej22 out of a 1992 legacy into my 1990 Loyale. Everything is done except the wiring. i got my harness from SJR, i currently have the 3 yellow wires labeled hot in run and start and hot at all times wired directly to the battery (Just temporarily). the black and red wire labeled fuel pump is wired to the blue and white wire from the old fuel pump relay ( the fuel pump was working but its not anymore) the alternator is wired up to the original wires from the vehicle. (The charge light was flashing while cranking but its not anymore) the wires labeled starter, trans, coolant, fan. radiator, select monitor, oil pressure, ac, check engine, and tach are not currently connected to anything my question is with this current setup is there a way to get it started it currently cranks over fine and the fuel pump was pumping but there is no spark im a little lost at why there is no spark and what happened to the fuel pump i know grounding could be an issue but i don't really know where to start, does the ecu need to be grounded and if so how also i don't know if there is a minimum voltage the battery needs to get everything going it currently has 12.36 volts i have read through several other peoples threads including numbchux, but im running out of things to try, the engine ran fine right before we pulled in out of the donor vehicle i suck at electrical so any help is greatly appreciated thanks
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My husband and I own a 2006 Baja w/ turbo. It has run great for a while, has some past issues that we thought were resolved shortly after purchase. We were currently debating on trading in for a newer subie that fits our needs better but have hit a major snag. It started throwing codes at us. We have gotten the PO303 code with no luck chasing down the issue. We changed the spark plugs, ran great for a few days, then code repeat. Change coil, ran fine for a few days, code repeat. Replaced cyl3 injector, ran good for a day. Then once again, code repeat. We have chased every rabbit hole we can think of and it seems to fix the problem for a very short period then poof, back to square one. My husband even tried unhooking the exhaust to to see if maybe we were catching the code from something in the cad converter. No luck. Now its back to doing exactly what it did when we first got the code. Rough idle, but has now acquired the problem of dying out when the clutch is depressed..... Any ideas or approaches you folks can think of? We dont have the money to dump a lot into this trying to chase down every possibility, but unless we have it running well, we have nothing to trade in to get even close to getting what we were after. Questions, comment, ideas are so very welcome and this point.... we have become extremely stressed over this issue..... -
Well after one long year of building lifts for nearly every Subaru on the market, ive decided to set up at West Coast Subaru Show 17!! 98-15 Forester's! 96-15 Outback's! 13-15 XV Crosstrek's! EA82's! EA81's! I will bring many of my kits for display and sale, EVERY SUBARU LIFT KIT WILL GET 20$ KNOCKED OFF, IF PURCHECED AT WSCC THIS YEAR! Prefer cash sales, but will have paypal card reader @ 2.9% fee. If you know you want a kit at the show please pre order it and so make enough and you get the right kit you want when you pick it up at the show! Im taking order right away so i have enought time to get them all done by then! SHARE! TELL YOUR FRIENDS! SPREAD THE WORD! If you have any quistions! Email me! Kits and prices are on my site! Patrick Anderson Anderson Deisng & Fabrication http://andersondesign-fab.com/ https://www.facebook.com/ADNFAB Adnfab@gmail.com
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I have a 2003 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 73,xxx on it. Recently, it has started to hesitate badly while accelerating and will not go faster than 50 mph. I took it to the local dealer, who wants to charge $2,300 to replace the catalytic converter and front o2 sensor, saying it was plugged...but it hasn't been glowing red hot. The check engine light is on (not flashing) I already replaced the catalytic converter, front o2 sensor, ignition coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs and the valve gaskets (oil came out when I pulled the spark plug cables) a couple months ago. The engine runs more smoothly with this more recent set of problems compared to when I first replaced the catalytic converter a few months ago. The catalytic converter would turn red hot then, which is why I replaced it. Any thoughts on what could be causing this problem? My apologies if this has been covered before on here...I'm new to the forum.
